In fairness, that's the literal function of the tool. You run it until it stops with a high torque and then put the torch to the control arm if that still doesn't work. Usually the forcing screw is running in the single digit rpm when the ball joint breaks free to the point you can watch it turn; cue the guys who think they can remove them with a hammer. LOL
Ideally the tool needs to fail in a way that isn't catastrophic. Having pressed many a rust-belt ball joint, there is basically zero situation the C-frame should ever fail. I've smashed, bent, and oblonged OTC, harbor freight, and Astro cups, they're supposed to be the fuse. If something goes crooked or is out of alignment the press will slowly walk sideways and off center with the target until it renders itself useless. At which point you're crushing adapters or it will get so crooked it simply relives the tension. Sometimes you can "send 'er home" even with the press running a little crooked if you're installing. Try that on removal and a cup might go flying or be totally destroyed.
There's been two or three pictures of broken Icon C-frames since they released, for all I know people score the back side with a cut-off wheel and break them for rage-bait. Regardless, during use the C-frame failing is not acceptable, ever. It would be like a bomb going off, it could kill someone just as a spring compressor could. I generally prefer a 498 air hammer and torch to remove ball joints when possible, as removal uses way more force than install and you can easily crush cups in the process.
IDK why the idea is "Icon broke, need to buy snap on", but that's what gets engagement I suppose.