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Ideas for heating a shed?

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H0w13

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My only workspace is a 10' x 12' shed powered by an extension cord run from the house. Ceiling is 7' and I'm located in NJ, so not terrible winters but it definitely can get cold.

Any ideas on how I can stay warm? I've run a 1500w heater to "pre-heat" the shed in the past, but I need to turn it off to use any power tools and it cools off quickly. I'm curious about the Mr Heater propane heaters, specifically if they're safe to use when generating some sawdust.

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
 
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engineer2

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Propane heaters use up the oxygen in the room and put out products of combustion. You can use it, but leave the door open. First sign of light-headedness, go outside for a while.

I was in the same boat and I ran two extension cords from the house on different circuits, one for the heater, one for the tools.

Any way to insulate the shed? That would go a long way towards keeping the heat in from the 1500W heater.
Fixed the issue by running power to my shed. Since the shed is insulated, my 1500W electric heater works fine, but needs a two hour head start on cold winter days.
 
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PoorUB

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H0w13 said:
My only workspace is a 10' x 12' shed powered by an extension cord run from the house. Ceiling is 7' and I'm located in NJ, so not terrible winters but it definitely can get cold.
Click to expand...
Run two cords.

You might consider running 240 volt out to it and a small panel.
 
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Hobby_Man22

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Run another extension cord from the house. You can't run any combustible fuel type heater in a space that small. You'll die.
 
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Terry D

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If this shed is something you plan on using alot. I would consider installing a sub panel out there. A 60 amp should do it. Then you would have 240 volt for a nice electric heater, and still run your tools at the same time. Dont know your budget, but a small mini split with a heat pump would also be a option, that would also give you AC. I would stay away from any fuel type heaters in that small space. Plus you would not have to worry about filling propane tanks
 
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PoorUB

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H0w13 said:
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. It sounds like my best bet is to trace my other outdoor outlets and see if any of them are on a separate circuit.

This is specifically the heater I was thinking of. It's propane, but says it's safe for indoor use?
Click to expand...
I would not use a vent free heater. They use up oxygen and if you use any chemicals, or do woodworking it will get into the burner. Get the vented on that Toyotadriver posted.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XTBV8SB/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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finn

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I insulated my shed of similar size and used a kerosene heater like what was popular in the nineties.

Worked ok, but took some floor space. Don’t know if they even sell them anymore, though.
 
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Jackfre

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Rinnai EX-08. Direct vent wall furnace. It will fire 3000-8000 btu. Pricey, but nothing better for the job.
 
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PoorUB

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theoldwizard1 said:
Most (all?) Portable vent free heater have a low oxygen sensor built in. A CO2 alarm is cheap.
Click to expand...
Oxygen is my minor complaint.

I still wouldn't recommend one, especially in a shop situation with chemicals and dust. Ever hear what happens when you burn brake clean in an enclosed area? In a shop type environment with paint and solvents I don't want to about the byproducts of combustion that end up back in the space the the person is breathing.

I might use one to heat my chicken coop. I certainly would not use one where people are around for any length of time.

Do you realize that most manufacturers of vent free heaters tell the user to keep a window open??

20+ years of doing HVAC and hearing too many complaints. I have been to classes from manufactureres that build them and talk about the benifits and shortcomiings. and we had oportunity to sell them, we didn't.

The city I live in will not even allow vent free heaters.

Also vent free heaters produce water vapor from combustion. Just what I want condensing on my cold tools.
 
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H0w13

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PoorUB said:
I still wouldn't recommend one, especially in a shop situation with chemicals and dust.
Click to expand...

This was a concern I had as well, wasn't sure if it was just me overthinking.

Electric it is
 
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mikedodge

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Run a second extension cord. Anything else is over kill. If your power tools are hand ones invest in some battery powered ones.
 
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PoorUB

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H0w13 said:
This was a concern I had as well, wasn't sure if it was just me overthinking.

Electric it is
Click to expand...
The other propane heater we posted is vented and would work great in you situation pus it doesn't use electricity.
 
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mike93lx

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More power, for sure.

If you can, take the time to trench it in so you can stop with the extension cord stuff. Do a MWBC to get two circuits without a panel. Just need a dual pole switch for a disconnect, then break out into two circuits. Use a two pole breaker in the main panel to feed it
 
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thammel

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The key is insulation. I fully insulated my 12 x 16 shed just to keep temp swings down all year. Really very effective!!
 
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Jackfre

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finn said:
A $1200 heater for a hundred square foot shed?
Click to expand...
As I said, pricey, but nothing better. Initially, in the smaller units, there was only the EX-11 firing from 5500-11000 btu. Taht was intended as the “single room” htr. With the modulation on the Energysavers and the 80% efficiency you ended up with 4400btu +/- on low fire. That meant the unit would have to cycle off on the stat. Rinnai’s are very quiet because they fire so low in their range and get very long run times, but 4400 btu in a small space, such as a bedroom is a lot of heat. With the pre-purge, ignition and then the blower starting up they were to noisy for that small a space with frequent starts and stops. We asked Rinnai Engineering for a smaller unit hoping for the 08 firing rate. They were able to down-fire the 11 to create the 08 with the 3000-8000 btu input, making it an ideal quiet small input unit. It has all the value of the bigger units and all the technology, just in less output. I mentioned quiet and run times. As an example, in my MA home I had a EX22. It would cycle on the stat in Sept and early Oct, but along about late Oct that thing would fire and literally not shut down until April. It would just modulate on the built in set-back stat
 
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ddawg16

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thammel said:
The key is insulation. I fully insulated my 12 x 16 shed just to keep temp swings down all year. Really very effective!!
Click to expand...

I second that. Insulation does wonders.

And....really cuts down the noise. The insulation alone will pay for itself in one winter

Side note....I'm in CA...doesn't get that cold...but I have drywall on my walls....compared to my old garage, my new one stays a LOT warmer.
Last year I insulated my roll up garage door....HUGE impact. Not only is it warmer, it cuts down the noise (lets me work later without disturbing the neighbors) and it made the garage door quieter going up and down.
 
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Jackfre

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Vent free heaters are perfectly safe when run properly. Many use them successfully in shops but you have to understand them. Odors will at times be a problem. Anything that is airborne will go thru that burner and it will come out smelling worse than it went in. Paint, finishes, any chemical that diffuses into the air will get burned. Yes, you have to provide adequate combustion air, but that is actually a benefit if you think about it. it will prevent itself from operating in an usafe condition. yes, they do put moisture into the air, but when you consider the moisture content of cold air being very low, a bit of humidity isn’t the worst thing. Where you get the objectionable moisture is when the unit is oversized and run as a sole source of heat. Keep them clean and they are an effective heating product. You clean them with compressed air per the manuf specs. I just had a friends heating system go down and she could not get anyone in there immediately. I installed one of the VF htrs in her place and bought her a couple weeks to get the unit she wanted/needed for the house. Once it was in I went to pick up the vent free and she tried very hard to buy it, but I keep it for just those kinds of situations. Also vent free by approval are listed as “supplemental heaters.” They are not intended as a sole source of heat. using them as such is where the moisture and odor problems mostly occur.
 
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Bigbird

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Im in the “run a panel out there and go electric” camp. I put a bigger (10,000 watt) one of these in our 2-car garage and it has worked out great: Heater
It takes about 30 minutes to bring it up to comfortable from the low 40’s, and has a remote and a timer.
 
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toyotadriver

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Boatman62 said:
Diesel heater. I know a couple guys that use them in sheds and they are popular with the conversion van/trailer guys. I'm pretty impressed with heat output.

Maybe not this exact unit but this is what I'm talking about.

Click to expand...

Here’s another all in one option. Could cut a hole for air to go out and another to go back into the shed. Needs 12v DC to run is but a battery and a large solar panel or two might handle that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MVNYT57/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They are vented so no combustion by products.

Don’t go vent free if at all possible. It’s better than freezing but vent free still *****. If you insist on vent free I’d go with the radiant vent free vs the blue flame. But I still don’t recommend vent free.
 
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PWC Repair

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thammel said:
The key is insulation. I fully insulated my 12 x 16 shed just to keep temp swings down all year. Really very effective!!
Click to expand...
I'll third that. My wife heats her 12x20x8 workshop with one of those little 1500w space heaters. She just runs it about 30 minutes before going out there to work and it's pretty warm. Whole thing is insulated with 3" foam sheet like my shop. But I also ran a 30a 220v supply out there so no need to turn heat off to run something else.
 
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MerlinsBeard

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thammel said:
The key is insulation. I fully insulated my 12 x 16 shed just to keep temp swings down all year. Really very effective!!
Click to expand...

I have a small 10x16' A frame shed with dormer with 2x4" walls 16" oc and 2x4" rafters and a slab. Roof has radiant shield. What did you end up going with for insulation?
 
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gmcgeo

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H0w13 said:
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. It sounds like my best bet is to trace my other outdoor outlets and see if any of them are on a separate circuit.

This is specifically the heater I was thinking of. It's propane, but says it's safe for indoor use?
Click to expand...
these have oxygen depletion systems and completely safe to use inside. keep them clean and they will last forever.

keep a window cracked to allow fresh air coming in, it will work just fine.
 
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u3b3rg33k

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H0w13 said:
My only workspace is a 10' x 12' shed powered by an extension cord run from the house. Ceiling is 7' and I'm located in NJ, so not terrible winters but it definitely can get cold.

Any ideas on how I can stay warm? I've run a 1500w heater to "pre-heat" the shed in the past, but I need to turn it off to use any power tools and it cools off quickly. I'm curious about the Mr Heater propane heaters, specifically if they're safe to use when generating some sawdust.

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
what about an oil filled electric radiator? they're like $30-50, and can be set for 600W/900W/1500W. can probably run a tool and a light with it on the low setting once it's up to temp.
 
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Kenstone1

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The type propane heater used in RV's would be ideal as it vents out a wall and it operates on 12v.
I camped in winter in a small trailer and only lit the pilot light to get all the heat I needed.
I have used a Mr. Buddy heater in my garage and it produced a lot of condensation because it was vent less.
Not as much a problem if the space is less than air tight.
jmo,
.
 
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