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Ideas for storing a small car chassis

rg171352

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Nov 23, 2016
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I'm at capacity for winter storage and need a nice place to store a partially restored rolling chassis. The chassis with everything currently attached is probably 4-600 lbs. My garage is entirely sheetrocked and I believe it utilizes a truss system. The trusses are orthogonal to the central axis of my chassis. I have been considering anchoring 2x4's to two of the trusses each at the front and rear of the chassis to then have four boards to mount pulleys to which I would then use to lift and support the chassis over the winter.

Has anyone done anything like this? How would you do this? Would you do this? Any insight is appreciated.

Ceiling height: 95"
Overall length of chassis including front wheels: 110"

Thanks!
 
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e015475

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Not nearly as heavy, but I once hung the wings from an airplane I was building on the wall of my shop while I built the fuselage. They hung from eyebolts lagged into the truss for a couple of years and I didn't manage to poke any holes in the fabric.

Could you stand it on end like K'Ledge suggests? You might also think about building a narrow wheeled cart and standing it on edge - you could wheel it around to keep it from getting in the way

If I'm pretty certain I'm going to be ready for parts in a couple of months, I've also rented storage units. You can find some storage locations that offer first months rent for free, this can be pretty economical if you can be in and out in a couple of months, but if your projects languish, it can be darned expensive.
 

rayra

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If it's a space issue, build a flat platform over it and pile the other goods there. Could even get away with just throwing some cheap moving blankets over it, lay thin OSB across the frame and pile everything on it. Just pull the wheels and put it on jackstands first.

I would NOT be hanging that kind of weight from any attic / roof truss system, it's not necessary.
 

quickfarms

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orthogonal mean perpendicular.

Since you are talking about winter storage, then it is probable that you live in snow county. Are your trusses storage trusses? Is there anything else that the trusses are supporting that was not included in the original design? If this is the case your trusses are designed for a snow load. So you need to pull out the plans and engineering calculations to see how much, if any, extra capacity are built into the trusses.

Sir, in true GJ fashion, you need a larger garage and a lift, this is a perfect use for a 4 post lift, a two post or single post could also work
 
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rg171352

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How long is it?
Would it stand on end with your ceiling height?
Hi 95" ceiling 110" chassis with front wheels. I just edited the post to reflect this info.

If you can write things like, "The trusses are orthogonal to the central axis of my chassis," you don't need our help.:sick:
You'd hope so, right? :D

Not nearly as heavy, but I once hung the wings from an airplane I was building on the wall of my shop while I built the fuselage. They hung from eyebolts lagged into the truss for a couple of years and I didn't manage to poke any holes in the fabric.

Could you stand it on end like K'Ledge suggests? You might also think about building a narrow wheeled cart and standing it on edge - you could wheel it around to keep it from getting in the way

If I'm pretty certain I'm going to be ready for parts in a couple of months, I've also rented storage units. You can find some storage locations that offer first months rent for free, this can be pretty economical if you can be in and out in a couple of months, but if your projects languish, it can be darned expensive.
It will be most of the winter. Storage ends up getting awfully pricey around here. The low ceiling height is the problem. If I put it on its end, it has to be at a bit of an angle.

If it's a space issue, build a flat platform over it and pile the other goods there. Could even get away with just throwing some cheap moving blankets over it, lay thin OSB across the frame and pile everything on it. Just pull the wheels and put it on jackstands first.

I would NOT be hanging that kind of weight from any attic / roof truss system, it's not necessary.
Sadly I need the floor space.

Sir, in true GJ fashion, you need a lift, this is a perfect use for a 4 post lift, a two post or single post could also work
I'd love a single post, but they are a bit out of budget.

Will it fit in the house?
Only kidding but 4 of my college students disassembled and carried a short wheelbase 1/2 ton Chevy truck into the dining room of the house they were renting so they could work on it through the winter.

I had done that in the past, but that isn't in the cards anymore. This house doesn't have a decent way to get it in.




Thank you all for your advice so far! Keep it coming!
 

iagsxr

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Sadly I need the floor space.

What do you plan to do with said floor space? Just estimating, you'll end up with less than 6' headroom if you hang it.

You could make a DIY four-post lift/platform. 2" x 6" perimeter frame, hinged legs with casters. Put the chassis on then lever it up with the legs. Just have a way to lock the legs. I'm picturing each end the legs being hooked together so it raises evenly. You could use an engine hoist to get it at least part way up, two would be better.
Coming down is going to be more of challenge. Here again an engine hoist or two would be your friend.

Or lean it up against the wall long ways. Make like the equivalent of a steel rack out of wood if you don't want it resting on the floor.
 
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4xdog

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Some of my friends in the UK use car cocoons for protected outside storage of their classics. No personal experience, but those things are available in various degrees of weatherproofness and some have environmental controls to dry the air inside the cocoon.

Maybe the chassis — or something else to free up space — can live outside for a while?
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Johns Creek, GA
Some of my friends in the UK use car cocoons for protected outside storage of their classics. No personal experience, but those things are available in various degrees of weatherproofness and some have environmental controls to dry the air inside the cocoon.

Maybe the chassis — or something else to free up space — can live outside for a while?

I had a family member who did the car “ziplock baggie” thing! Big *** plastic bag- pushed the car right into the bag (all the other long-time storage stuff was done to the engine, tank, etc.), jacked it up, put it on blocks, rolled the windows down a crack, put a bag of charcoal in each footwell, on top of a plastic sheet, then evacuated the bag with a shop vac- and sealed the end.

The car was in a self-storage unit (unconditioned), for 6yrs. When it came out- it looked exactly the same as it went in. Within a hour it was running.
 

Wolley

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Wait a minute, summer isn't even over yet. If you have yard space you could build a crate and cover with plastic. Where you going to put it when it is complete?
 

CraigStu

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So hanging the chassis it will be perpendicular to the trusses right? Staying as close to the wall as possible, I'd put a 4x4 across 3 trusses where you want one end of the chassis and the same for the other end. Get a long eyebolt to run through the ceiling drywall and through the 4x4. Use some good rope and a few pulleys to pull the chassis up to the ceiling. This will have the chassis hanging parallel w/ the wall and maybe one foot off the wall. If that won't work you could go to a 4 point system by adding 2 more of the above. My previous garage had standard trusses. I put one eyebolt and 4x4 the same as above about 4ft from the wall. I then pulled a Ford 351 engine from a car. It might not have been 600 but it surely was >400# and nothing bad happened.
 
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rg171352

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What do you plan to do with said floor space? Just estimating, you'll end up with less than 6' headroom if you hang it.

You could make a DIY four-post lift/platform. 2" x 6" perimeter frame, hinged legs with casters. Put the chassis on then lever it up with the legs. Just have a way to lock the legs. I'm picturing each end the legs being hooked together so it raises evenly. You could use an engine hoist to get it at least part way up, two would be better.
Coming down is going to be more of challenge. Here again an engine hoist or two would be your friend.

Or lean it up against the wall long ways. Make like the equivalent of a steel rack out of wood if you don't want it resting on the floor.
I am trying to use the floor space to park my cars for the winter.

Interesting suggestions, I am trying to imagine how the diy lift would work.
Some of my friends in the UK use car cocoons for protected outside storage of their classics. No personal experience, but those things are available in various degrees of weatherproofness and some have environmental controls to dry the air inside the cocoon.

Maybe the chassis — or something else to free up space — can live outside for a while?
Those are very neat. I have thought about these, but they have been vetoed. Everything must be inside.

I had a family member who did the car “ziplock baggie” thing! Big *** plastic bag- pushed the car right into the bag (all the other long-time storage stuff was done to the engine, tank, etc.), jacked it up, put it on blocks, rolled the windows down a crack, put a bag of charcoal in each footwell, on top of a plastic sheet, then evacuated the bag with a shop vac- and sealed the end.

The car was in a self-storage unit (unconditioned), for 6yrs. When it came out- it looked exactly the same as it went in. Within a hour it was running.
This is absolutely amazing!

Wait a minute, summer isn't even over yet. If you have yard space you could build a crate and cover with plastic. Where you going to put it when it is complete?

I have a car that needs to find a new home which will free up space for the roadster. It would have been ready to list months ago, but the correct battery is still on back order, so I have put the car on the back burner.

So hanging the chassis it will be perpendicular to the trusses right? Staying as close to the wall as possible, I'd put a 4x4 across 3 trusses where you want one end of the chassis and the same for the other end. Get a long eyebolt to run through the ceiling drywall and through the 4x4. Use some good rope and a few pulleys to pull the chassis up to the ceiling. This will have the chassis hanging parallel w/ the wall and maybe one foot off the wall. If that won't work you could go to a 4 point system by adding 2 more of the above. My previous garage had standard trusses. I put one eyebolt and 4x4 the same as above about 4ft from the wall. I then pulled a Ford 351 engine from a car. It might not have been 600 but it surely was >400# and nothing bad happened.
I have been thinking of something like this. I'd ideally like some pulley or winch system that will allow it to be raised and lowered at the same time to give me maximum control in both activities.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I haven't done a chassis but over the years I have hung a lot of other stuff. I found that I like the separate front and rear pulley system. It may seem a little slow at first but 1- 400-600# w/ one set of pulleys you will need to wrap your line around maybe 5-6 pulleys to get enough mechanical advantage. 2- I bring the rope from where ever it is on the ceiling through one more pulley so it comes down close to the wall. Then I use a cleat on the wall to tie off to and halving the weight by using 2 systems makes it much easier to wrap around the cleat.
 
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gahrajmahal

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for Several years we stored our MGB outside in a harbor freight temporary garage. After putting down a tarp underneath we parked the car sideways and tucked in the corner and built the frame over the car, then covered with the garage tarp.
Portable garage
A0AF1AC9-5731-4939-913D-38133B15A2B2.jpeg

Neighbors didn’t seem to mind as it was new and looked nice and was only there in the winter. I resold it after I was finished.

If you want to store it indoors I would purchase some secondhand warehouse pallet racking. You can then hoist it up on a shelf without wheels and tires, and store the tires on on another shelf.
 

king nero

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Those are very neat. I have thought about these, but they have been vetoed. Everything must be inside.

Is a shipping container an option?
A friend of mine stored 2 cars for + 10 years in one (might actually have been closer to 20), with adequate (forced) ventilation switched by a humidity feeler switch (dunno the english name) and with zero rust or electrical issues after that time.
Positive pressure in the shipping container, and a paper filter like they use in kitchen fume extractors, resulted in minimal dust or dirt on the cars. It was like a time capsule.
 
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rg171352

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I haven't done a chassis but over the years I have hung a lot of other stuff. I found that I like the separate front and rear pulley system. It may seem a little slow at first but 1- 400-600# w/ one set of pulleys you will need to wrap your line around maybe 5-6 pulleys to get enough mechanical advantage. 2- I bring the rope from where ever it is on the ceiling through one more pulley so it comes down close to the wall. Then I use a cleat on the wall to tie off to and halving the weight by using 2 systems makes it much easier to wrap around the cleat.

I was thinking about something like this, although I was considering a ratcheting hoist to keep things a bit safer than just the cleat in case I sneeze when raising or lowering the car.

for Several years we stored our MGB outside in a harbor freight temporary garage. After putting down a tarp underneath we parked the car sideways and tucked in the corner and built the frame over the car, then covered with the garage tarp.
Portable garage
A0AF1AC9-5731-4939-913D-38133B15A2B2.jpeg

Neighbors didn’t seem to mind as it was new and looked nice and was only there in the winter. I resold it after I was finished.

If you want to store it indoors I would purchase some secondhand warehouse pallet racking. You can then hoist it up on a shelf without wheels and tires, and store the tires on on another shelf.
That's a nice little garage. Still trying to keep everything in the garage. The pallet racking could be a good idea. The only negative is I have an 8' workbench against the back wall which the pallet racking would need to span. I haven't found any that would work yet.

Is a shipping container an option?
A friend of mine stored 2 cars for + 10 years in one (might actually have been closer to 20), with adequate (forced) ventilation switched by a humidity feeler switch (dunno the english name) and with zero rust or electrical issues after that time.
Positive pressure in the shipping container, and a paper filter like they use in kitchen fume extractors, resulted in minimal dust or dirt on the cars. It was like a time capsule.
That's a good idea as well. The 10 year thing is part of why I want to also make sure everything stays in the garage. It's easy to continue expanding outwardly. I want the reminder that I need to get these projects moving.
 
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rg171352

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PS-Series-Stacker-15.png

What about one of these pallet lifts? Some of the hydraulic units have a capacity of one ton. This would allow me to move the chassis up and down a bit easier. I could possibly roll the legs under my workbench and get the chassis as close to the wall and ceiling as possible. I could even potentially use it to lift the entire car at a future point, if necessary (1,200 lb car). It could also potentially work to help move heavy parts around the house. Has anyone used one of these in the place of an engine crane?
 

Sumboodie

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Wait a minute, summer isn't even over yet. If you have yard space you could build a crate and cover with plastic. Where you going to put it when it is complete?

Summer has been over for nearly 2 months here. :ROFLMAO: It's winter now. high of 35* today.
 

CraigStu

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I use a cleat like this one. So the wide bases keep the rope off the drywall'
I put the cleat waist to chest high. When the load gets heavier I run the rope around the bottom of the cleat and out to my hand and sometimes I run the rope round the bottom, and then the top, and out to my hand. This way the friction of the rope and cleat helps keep it under control. I can keep the rope taut in the cleat w/ my right hand, and reach up w/ left hand and grab the rope higher up and pull it away from the wall. As I slowly let it go back toward the wall I take up the slack by pulling more of the rope around the cleat. Pulling the rope away from the wall gives a mechanical advantage compared to pulling it directly down.
 

Joe Reed

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Cordova TN
You state that it's a rolling chassis, 110" with the front wheels. Remove the wheels. Anything else that can be removed to reduce the length - like the front axle/suspension?
If not, could you cut a hole or two in the ceiling drywall to let one end of the chassis stick up into the attic space?
 
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PS-Series-Stacker-15.png

What about one of these pallet lifts? Some of the hydraulic units have a capacity of one ton. This would allow me to move the chassis up and down a bit easier. I could possibly roll the legs under my workbench and get the chassis as close to the wall and ceiling as possible. I could even potentially use it to lift the entire car at a future point, if necessary (1,200 lb car). It could also potentially work to help move heavy parts around the house. Has anyone used one of these in the place of an engine crane?
I actually have one of these (it was replaced with a forklift at my office, bossman just said to call a courier to take the other one to my little shop instead of trying to sell it lol). The limitation is lifting height - generally about 5' or so. If that can get you high enough no reason it wouldn't work. I know the one I have has lifted well over 2000lbs (a bit sketchy at that point though - at least rolling it with that weight from the back of flat bed on rough asphalt).
 

PDang

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Build a wooden jig and roll it on its side. You can fit it in a empty space vertically which takes up much less space you aren't using.
 

Sleeper

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If the car you are storing on the ground is narrow enough, you can use two of these to straddle the car on the ground with the chassis above it. I’ve used them to hold a spare monocoque body of about the same weight. I just had a friend help me lift one end onto one set of scaffold when the platform was at its lowest height a few inches off the ground, then do the same for the other and just raise each side a few inches at a time until you have it all the way up. It wasn’t hard to lift one end of the load a few inches when the other end is supported.
13023E79-632A-4AE7-A08D-CF528E63D23B.jpeg
 

Chilliwack Murray

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I have a little more height to work with but I found a walk behind 2000lbs lift and use it with pallet racking to store a lot of things including a small car shell that weighs about 1200 lbs plus all the stuff I have stored in it.

Pay attention to ratings and installation guides, there is industrial storage and handling equipment out there and it’s designed to lift and store heavy stuff safer than most things you can put together yourself.

44F51A56-E020-4601-ADF4-90FBB250B051.jpeg
 
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