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Ideas for workbench top ?

torqueman2002

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I used some heavy duty vinyl flooring ment for commercial use, worked fine for 10 years now, drilled a couple holes in it but thats all :)

I've used that on a couple of workbenches, cheap, easy to clean, and durable.

I built a 4' x' 8' frame out of 2x4 and used 3/4" plywood for the top on the 1st one I built. It's a long reach from the front to the back for me (5'8"); I'll shorten it up a bit next time.

Legs were doubled up 2x4s and back 2x4 was lag bolted into basement block wall.

I ran a 1/4"x1/4" aluminum L around the perimeter edge. Then, I took 12"x12" floor tiles and glued them down with contact cement.

Sturdy enough to hold a 4 cylinder engine or 4-spd+OD trans for re-build work.
 
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pman1505

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Apr 14, 2010
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I used cheap laminate flooring from Minards its been on there for two years. I've rebuilt snowmobile engines and carbs on it and its holding up great. I figure if and when i need to replace any it comes apart easy and a new one snaps into place..:thumbup:
 

Jackfre

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The not-such-a-poor-man's solution. Nice, quiet, inch-thick steel plate.

inchthickbenchlr.jpg

From one Jack to another...So...you have a special room just for hammers?:bounce:
 

Chris Adams

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Some of these sound cool, makes me want to 'mess' with my three benches.

I don't want a metal bench in a shop because I work with electronics on occasion.
Last thing you want is a bench conducting...
Don't like cleaning spilled liquids off of metal bench.
Not too fond of rusting benches.

My original bench from when I bought this place in 88 I moved into the new shop couple years ago. Solid core door. You can get them places like Restore, or most used shops for a few dollars.
New they may be expensive, don't remember.

I've had engines, transmissions, and anything else you could have in a shop on mine.
Oil or liquids tend to make it heavier...
Another of my benches I stole Jack Olsen's idea, and is a fold up Plywood bench. I used 5/8 or so (odd number) Birch plywood. Never put a finish on it, now after two years of dirty car parts it's starting to assume a color.
This bench folds down right in front of cars on my lift, thus gets the worst of the worst abuse. Straight off the engine, onto the bench.
Totally satisfied with the plywood, no treatment, no extra cover, nothing.
If I ever damaged it, I could buy a new one for about 30 bucks.
Assuming I survived the damage because it would take something extreme to ruin it.

Third bench is just a Mac Tech 1000 with some of the same plywood over the top, plus a rubber tool box mat.
I keep that clean and don't put dripping greasy stuff on it, so it gets a lot less use. Also concerned about solder burns, or heat gun burns, so again it makes a much less useful tool bench than one I just slam anything I want onto.
 

Bad Jackson

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Here is my WB in progress. I used 1/8" steel. I like it so far, I don't even have it secured to the top yet. The bench was built by my Grandpa in the 60's. I just added 3/4" plywood and 1/2" cabinet grade plywood and then this piece of 1/8" steel. I will screw into both wood sections from the bottom up, then use liquid nails to secure the steel to the wood.
 

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banditbigdog

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My bench: a 1/4" thick sheet of neoprene rubber on top of a butcher block table.
For work on carbs and guns the neoprene cant be beat, you place the part your working on down and you can bear down with a lot of force and don't have to worry about it slipping out from under you.
Best case for me would be two tables one 1/2" thick or thicker steel for heavy type jobs, the other rubber coated on top of butcher block.

Tom
 

billybudge

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UNITED KINGDOM
Hi, many of the workbench tops that I have used are /were made from 1 3/4 inch MDF board sometimes 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch, and these seem to be really populer in most workshops in the UK, also some stainless steel tops aswell.
I have recently built a new bench for my workshop and I would like to try something different with it, but not too sure what to use,
Overtime I have found that the MDF top would wear and dent like a rocky landscape. and also the stainless top tend to dent and scratch.
 

Bad Jackson

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Not to High-Jack this thread, but How do you treat your steel top? So it doesnt rust...
Thanks,
Munsk
 

PCO6

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Munsk - I have never treated mine (post #10) with anything. I've spilled oil, anti-freeze, water, paint, etc. on it. I try to keep it clean ( :lol: ) and otherwise take care of it and rust has never been a problem.
 

Jack Olsen

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From one Jack to another...So...you have a special room just for hammers?:bounce:
It's a clearly visible threat to any project I'm working on. Either you cooperate with Jack, or you go to visit the hammer bench. :)

Actually, years of fishing hammers out of a drawer led me to putting them all in one place on the wall.
 

Bad Jackson

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Montana
Thanks PC06, I just rubbed half of it down with 10W oil, just to ward off rust untill I can really work it.
I like your avatar too! Not only do I really like Canada, but your guys' flag is cool and in that pic... the "canvas" is spectacular!!!!!
Thanks.
Munsk.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
On width - I've found that 30" is a good width. 24" works, but if you sit stuff on the back liike small parts bins and such (me) it eats up a bit of work space. TO save material, one of the new benches will have a 3/4" top with a 7/16" under sheet, both cut to 24" width. I'll use a 2x6 layed flat at the back for a 29 1/2" wide bench. That also leaves a 1/16" lip over 24" for a galvanized top cover if I want it. I'm thinking v-notch trowel, adhesive and flashing LOL.
 

Steevo

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Not to High-Jack this thread, but How do you treat your steel top? So it doesn't rust...
Thanks,
Munsk

If you use it for things that leak fluids, like motor or transmission work, you will always be wiping up oil spots, which keeps a permanent film of rust-proofing in place.
That, or an occasional wipe down with WD-40 or similar penetrating oil.
 

lineman88

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Jul 11, 2010
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Massachusetts
I just picked up the 24 X 96 Craftsman Stainless Steel top last week on sale for $147 with free instore pick up. Looks like 20-22 gauge but I'm not sure, over 1 1/2" MDF. The web site said 40lbs. Two big guys at sears could barely get in my truck. It's got to weight 150lbs. The corners are welded and it comes pretty well wrapped with a protective film which you still see on mine (have to paint the walls first). It fits great on 2 HF 13 draw tool chests. Once I get my floor finished, I'll work out a more permanent setup. I don't think I could have gotten it made for that price in SS.
 

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formek

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After I got it cleaned up, I gave it a coat of clear gloss Polyurethane. It still shows some spots and burn marks.

Cheers:beer:

How does the polyurethane hold you to oil, greas, brake fluid, trans fliud stuff like that?
 
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Steevo

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I just picked up the 24 X 96 Craftsman Stainless Steel top last week on sale for $147 with free instore pick up. Looks like 20-22 gauge but I'm not sure, over 1 1/2" MDF. The web site said 40lbs. Two big guys at sears could barely get in my truck. It's got to weight 150lbs. The corners are welded and it comes pretty well wrapped with a protective film which you still see on mine (have to paint the walls first). It fits great on 2 HF 13 draw tool chests. Once I get my floor finished, I'll work out a more permanent setup. I don't think I could have gotten it made for that price in SS.

That looks like it will be a nice setup.
 

Jamesbbh

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Jun 16, 2011
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Pensacola, FL
1- countertop found at work- free

Picture004.jpg


2-1/2" steel- $150 off craiglist

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CarJeep046-1.jpg


3. Piece of MDF I had laying around after a few rounds with a jigsaw/router/polyester resin.

CarJeep085-1.jpg


CarJeep086-1.jpg

CarJeep088.jpg



:beer:
 

lineman88

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Massachusetts
That looks like it will be a nice setup.

Steevo,

I have to admit that I'm new to the forum and that your recent posting of your workbench project was really the inspiration for the bench. Once I get the floor finished, I'm planning on removing the casters and fabricating some side supports to finish it off and drop the height of the bench. The HF cabinets are a cost effective way to get some storage into the work bench.
 

TravisT

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Just curious if anyone has thought of or used 2x4s sandwiched together standing on end as a workbench top. I've thought of doing this, as it seems like a fairly cheap way to get a solid 3-1/2" thick workbench top. I figured you could drill them and use threaded rod to hold them together every foot or so.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I thought it would be a good idea...
 

Nighttrain

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Just curious if anyone has thought of or used 2x4s sandwiched together standing on end as a workbench top. I've thought of doing this, as it seems like a fairly cheap way to get a solid 3-1/2" thick workbench top. I figured you could drill them and use threaded rod to hold them together every foot or so.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I thought it would be a good idea...


I have seen this done before but you will be lucky to find two 2x4" that will line up with each other. The one I saw the guy was able to glue them together and then ran the whole thing through a planner to make it flat.
 

formek

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Just curious if anyone has thought of or used 2x4s sandwiched together standing on end as a workbench top. I've thought of doing this, as it seems like a fairly cheap way to get a solid 3-1/2" thick workbench top. I figured you could drill them and use threaded rod to hold them together every foot or so.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I thought it would be a good idea...

I have seen this done before but you will be lucky to find two 2x4" that will line up with each other. The one I saw the guy was able to glue them together and then ran the whole thing through a planner to make it flat.

I like the thought of this. I dont have access to a planer
 

TravisT

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While I'm sure you couldn't get them perfect, if you tightened each piece of threadall after aligning the boards as close as possible, I would think you could get it close. Planer would be perfect, but if not just top it with a thinner sheet of plywood or metal, and if/when that gets messed up just replace it. I would think something like this would take a beating.

Planer would be real nice, but I don't have one or know anyone that does. I don't know the standard size for them, but I would imagine it would be a pretty heavy duty one for something that wide.
 

Bull

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I had alot of hardwood flooring left over, so I installed it on two work benches that I have. I sanded and varnished the tops. It looks good and is tough.Can take a real pounding. I thought about using high grade smooth plywood , but I think hardwood flooring was a better choice.

I'm also going to vote for hardwood flooring. I used some for a free workbench frame that I picked up. I didn't even sand the old finish off, just applied some high quality marine-grade varnish top it. Tough, good looking, and cheap!

100_6552.jpg
 

gtcs1

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Here is mine. My garage is a 2-car 20.5" X 21", so I tried to pack stuff.

I had 3 Craftsman base I bought for the purpose of making a workbench unit. Then I managed to find on local internet classified ads a maple butcher top (paid $150). I sanded it and applied varnish. It turned out pretty nice.

The top piece measures 9.5 ft X 29 inches. I removed the caster wheels from the bases and used small pieces of wood to act as little foot.

On the left hand, I drilled 3 holes, ready to mount my vise. On the left side, I added a used Snap-On side cabinet I got for $50

Since the 3 bases are not as deep as the top, I made a little shelf in the back where I stored jack stands

Above this unit, I have 3 NAPA metal cabinets.

Last thing I'd like to do on this, aside the vise, is to add a thin drawer mounted (ideally same as the base) just under the top maple, just above the stool. Finding a single drawer seems pretty difficult!!!

Thanks
 

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formek

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Here is mine. My garage is a 2-car 20.5" X 21", so I tried to pack stuff.

I had 3 Craftsman base I bought for the purpose of making a workbench unit. Then I managed to find on local internet classified ads a maple butcher top (paid $150). I sanded it and applied varnish. It turned out pretty nice.

Yes looks good. What cabinets are you using
 

waltmcq

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PT
I have a 1/2" steel bench, a plywood with Formica on it by a sink, and a 1800lbs platen bench but they all have one thing in common. A piece of cardboard on them tell it get dirty and I throw it away and get a new one.
 

Voi

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I like the thought of this. I dont have access to a planer

This topic comes up every so often on woodworking forums. General consensus is to not use threaded rod unless you just don't have clamps as they'd have to be removed anyways to allow the top to expand and contract. If you lack clamps some say just use twice as many rods to make your own clamps and don't bother having holes drilled through your top.

Also, the typical 2x4 has a fairly high moisture content and would have to be dried for quite a while. And then you'd probably need both a jointer and a planer to get them glue joint ready. Or just a planer and then face joint all your boards on a planer sled.

Many woodworkers build their bench tops from 2x10 or 2x12 southern yellow pine or douglas fir. The large boards are closer to quarter sawn at the ends and are ripped down to the desired thickness. But you still need to dry the wood out.

Back to the 2x4 idea, I saw a custom floating stairway built out of nothing but the common old 2x4. It was in an expensive custom home. Kind of a neat look. All the 2x4's were milled down to 1 1/4" x 3" and then face-glued together. So it can be done and would be super cheap if you had a lot of 2x4 scrap laying around that is somewhat dry.
 

TurboBlog

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Nov 14, 2011
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East Tennessee
Hello All,

I went with a couple stainless prep table tops that I found for a great price on Craigslist. They are 60x30 and are very sturdy. They also quieted down dramatically once I bolted them to the 3/4 MDF and cabinet. If pursuing these, do a little homework as quality/strength varies greatly. I was lucky enough to find two that I would consider strong enough for my needs. If you want to see more of the install, feel free to check out my website here

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gtcs1

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Sep 4, 2011
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LOL I am sorry I was not very clear. What are the cabinets on the wall.

Opps!! LOL

I should have understood better. Here it is, 3 units of 33"W X 22" H X 17"D. I have a 4th unit I'm going to add to the 3, on the left edge.
 

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formek

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Opps!! LOL

I should have understood better. Here it is, 3 units of 33"W X 22" H X 17"D. I have a 4th unit I'm going to add to the 3, on the left edge.

Thank you I dont want to hijack this thread but were did you get thoes and what did you pay? Verey nice:thumbup:
 

jasonreck71

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Dec 30, 2011
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Newnan,GA
I use a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard on the top of the bench. It resists oil and spills pretty well, it's hard so it stands up to use, and when it finally does get beat up it's cheap to replace.

I use the same thing..Every couple of years I replace it and it looks all pretty again, ready for more abuse
 
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