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Ideas on cheap car finish??

mrbill55

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I have a friend that is a retired paint guy. He wants nothing to do with it! Maybe could get him to spray it
Your friend knows it all has to come off, the rear can be sanded down to the base, as that is all that failed there, the front of the car needs to be stripped to bare meta, as there are signs of water contamination which caused the paint to fail in a wholesale fashion. I see 4-8hours of prep by a professional shop, plus the paint. Expect $700+ at your local MAACO.


Bill S.
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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I have a buddy in Mesa that had that very car, but a hardtop and he painted it with bedliner. It looked uniform, but I imagine it was a nightmare to clean and probably looked like hell within a year from the AZ sun and dust.

I'll be honest, between the paint and trashed top I'd probably leave it as is and drive it until it blows. At a certain point you just have to cut bait, and a 19yo Chrysler is 99% of the way there even if it's in good mechanical shape.
 

Gurp

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Look up Mooremotorsports on youtube. He has done some really good paintjobs with lots of prep and rattle cans. even goes back and reveiewshis work later on down the road on some cars.
 

yhprum

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I’ve used hardener on Rustoleum in the US and I am using it on a similar paint here in Australia. It works pretty good, I can cut and polish a few days after spraying .
good prep is paramount and you can get a really good gloss after wet sanding and compounding.
Only sprayed on, haven’t tried brushing or rolling it on.
 

dffay

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Every auto paint store has a clearance rack. Gallon cans of some mis-match or color some customer changed their mind on. They are a big price break but limited in color choice.
 

gte718p

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How good of a finish do you want? I painted my 4Runner with a roller and tractor supply Kubota orange. I’m sure prices have gone up but it was less than $200. When I did it. Not shiny, but held up to 6 years outside. Three of those where in Hawaii where the IV index is pretty high.
 

TimeWarpF100

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I have a 2005 Crossfire. The clear coat is failing in a bad way. It’s black in AZ sun. I paid $3200 for the car a few years ago. Its not worth repainting. A real paint job would total the car,, price wise. It’s still a good car mechanily, just looks like ****. Wrapping is almost the same coast as paint. I’ve heard of using plastic dip. Any good ideas?
CHEAP way never works. It may look better to you for a very short time but the cheap paint job will KILL any real value.
I am with Robert on this one. I actually just bought a gallon of that SPI black to try on the frame of my N truck. SPI primers I have used and they are excellent. Last I looked probably 10 gallons of it on hand. I better start to use it up.
Photo's would help a lot when asking for advice. Like, how bad is it really.

If you make mess of it drop value from 3200 down to $32.00 or raise value with something decent. Pay now or pay later.
 

TimeWarpF100

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Thanks everyone for your input! Hood is by far the worst! Bought from what I thought was a private seller, but turned out to be a car dealer. At his home?? Definitely has had previous paint work done, I’m sure the cheepist available. I don’t look forward to sanding this hood!24A07DDF-20EA-46AA-9FF0-12774527D311.jpegD01AC880-4CF6-4AB7-BC87-4716F34EB9D5.jpeg
Posted prior to seeing these photo's.
You would be shocked how well that paint would come around.. See how much can be saved prior to painting entire car. Does it have a metallic in paint?
My daily driver looks about like that. I should do 1/2 in paint restore then post photos.
Try saving it NOW before it's too late. What part of AZ are you in?
 
OP
N

no704

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Posted prior to seeing these photo's.
You would be shocked how well that paint would come around.. See how much can be saved prior to painting entire car. Does it have a metallic in paint?
My daily driver looks about like that. I should do 1/2 in paint restore then post photos.
Try saving it NOW before it's too late. What part of AZ are you in?
Not metallic. Tempe. Working on reinstalling the back window in the top now.
 

Zebedeewesty

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I painted my bug in a single car garage using this borrowed Apollo spraymaster, kind of like the HF ones.
2016-07-20%2010.19.16_zps3acyrajj.JPG
5L of single stage cellulose paint and 5L of anti bloom thinners cost me just over £100 ($127) off ebay. Primer and the thinners for that were a little less. So maybe $200 for all the paint.
Still looks pretty good 7 years later.
2023-11-23 14.54.38.JPG
 
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cosmokenney

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Plasti dip is an option. They even have clear coats you can put on. But then matching the rest of the car is the hard part. You'd probably have to shoot the whole car with dip. There are a ton of videos on spraying full cars with dip.
 

brianh

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Have not used hardener yet. I am going to order some as I am near completion of a new boat.
Has anybody else here used enamel hardener? Wondering how it changes the workability / sheen of the paint for roller/brush/pad application.
I have used hardener in rustoleum dries faster and is much more durable, I have mostly sprayed it, I did brush it once I did not really notice a difference. If spraying remember to clean out the gun before the paint jells I get at least 12 hours pot life.
 

speed bump

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I used Summit Racing single stage on a recent project and for the price it isn't bad. Since its black I would be tempted to try SPI base clear though since they make good stuff.

Whatever you decide, figure you are probably are going spend about 100 hours in labor and a $1000 in materials minimum.
 

MushCreek

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My main concern is fading and chalking. I painted a truck with DuPont Centauri, which was supposed to be fairly good stuff at the time. It was chalky in a few years. I'm somewhat afraid to try a base/clearcoat system with all of the peeing cars I see driving around. I'd rather have fading and chalking over peeling. At least dull painted can be brought back with some polishing.
 

Jehannum

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Since everyone else has dipped in with their favorite single stage, I'll throw mine in too: SEM Hot Rod Black. It's a single stage urethane that dries to a matte finish. It'd look pretty good on that, IMO.
 

ludakris04

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what about a wipe on clear coat?

Seems like it would be the easiest and would look decent.

 

Old Man Roger

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Someone mentioned poppy’s wipe on clear coat in the other thread.

what about a wipe on clear coat?

Seems like it would be the easiest and would look decent.

:sneaky:
 

yhprum

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So I recently found out about coach (bus) painting in England. Look at the results you can get with a brush. I have heard of painting boats using a brush too. It’s called tipping. Wonder where you find brushes for that.
 

Adaylate

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Sometimes on failed clear coat you can use a razor before any sanding. It can speed up the process.
Good luck!
 

Zebedeewesty

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So I recently found out about coach (bus) painting in England. Look at the results you can get with a brush. I have heard of painting boats using a brush too. It’s called tipping. Wonder where you find brushes for that.
You can use a foam roller with rustoleum (the kind or roller you buy to paint gloss on household radiators). Sanding between coats gives a great shine.
Robroll3.jpg
Nice how to here:
Sometimes on failed clear coat you can use a razor before any sanding. It can speed up the process.
Good luck!
I've used these before with success to remove flaking clear.
Untitled.jpeg
 
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