Ideas on removing stuck studs in a die casting

[Rockable]

I have a headlight stanchion for a 37 Packard that I am trying to save. It is die cast and has steel studs in it that have been cut off, leaving about 1/4" protruding. This is the 2nd one I've done. The first one, I tried Kroil and PB Blaster to loosen them but nothing happened aside from me pinching a blood blister on my hand when the vise grips snapped over center. Then, I tried welding a nut to the protruding portion. You guessed it, it wrung the nut off. I ended up drilling it out and putting a Heli-Coil in it but one of the holes is not very deep and you can't tap it very deep with the tap supplied in HC kit.

I have been applying chemicals to the second one for a couple of days and nothing has changed. That steel stud in that die casting is not wanting to come out. Short of a machine shop, has anyone got experience in getting these out of die castings? I've done several in the past but never had any this tough.

(I started a new thread because I didn't want to hijack the other guy's thread on his aluminum heads. Just hoping for something different since mine has the protrusions.)

Thanks

 

[no704]

A pic would help.

 

[36truck]

Heat it up good then push wax (candle will do) into it. It will wick down the threads making it come out easy.

 

[danielbuck]

if you have 1/4" of protrusion sticking up, I would say that would be ideal for threading on a nut, and welding the nut to the stud, then remove.

 

[Rockable]

if you have 1/4" of protrusion sticking up, I would say that would be ideal for threading on a nut, and welding the nut to the stud, then remove.

I tried that on the last one and it didn't work. It is unquestionably the best way to torque it but it did not loosen it up the last time I tried.

 

[pancholasvegas]

I tried that on the last one and it didn't work. It is unquestionably the best way to torque it but it did not loosen it up the last time I tried.

Weld it again. Clean it off and weld it again, after that. If necessary, do it again. Having access to a welder, there isn't much of a better solution than that one. I've had to re-weld multiple times on really stuck studs, but they came out.

 

[DGersic]

Is the stud threaded in, or is it pressed or cast in place?

 

[cmandp]

You can buy bottoming taps for helicoils or grind the taper off your standard helicoil tap. 1/4-20 Helicoil bottoming tap I would avoid drilling the studs out oversize just to remove the stud however.

Definitely keep trying to remove them by welding a nut on. You have to get the weld penetration right so it's strong enough to take the torque. It took me like 5 tries the first time I welded a nut to remove a stud.

 

[Rockable]

You can buy bottoming taps for helicoils or grind the taper off your standard helicoil tap. 1/4-20 Helicoil bottoming tap I would avoid drilling the studs out oversize just to remove the stud however.

Definitely keep trying to remove them by welding a nut on. You have to get the weld penetration right so it's strong enough to take the torque. It took me like 5 tries the first time I welded a nut to remove a stud.

Thanks! That is a last resort, for sure.

 

[tncatadjuster]

Any chance a ultrasonic cleaning could help? I have no idea. but I have had luck with jets in carbs.

 

[helterskelter]

A good weld should twist the stud off before the weld fails. So if the nut came off there is room to improve the weld. I would your focus efforts on getting a better weld. Once you twist the stud off then it'll be time to change plans to send to someone with machine tools.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Like mentioned in the other thread, it’s easier to get a good weld if you use a washer first. Then you can weld the nut to the washer inside and out.

Preheating helps make sure you get a good weld too.

 

[Rockable]

Is the stud threaded in, or is it pressed or cast in place?

Threaded

 

[bwringer]

Is the stud threaded in, or is it pressed or cast in place?

My question too. Casting studs into place, rather than bothering with drilling and tapping a die cast part, is not uncommon.


Over on a large motorcycle forum, there was a very, VERY long thread about removing the oil filter adapter from a BMW motorcycle engine. (Some idiot previous owner or "mekanik" had somehow mangled the threads.) This is the threaded bit sticking out of the engine you use to spin a canister oil filter into place. On damn near every other engine on the planet, this is a part with threads on both ends and it screws into the case.

Debate raged back and forth for months, until someone actually got so fed up that they bought a scrap engine case on eBay, then bandsawed the damn thing in half so they could settle the question once and for all. Turned out that BMW, in their unique German talent for drastically overcomplicating the simplest things, had actually cast the oil filter adapter into place.

Not that BMW has anything to do with Packard, but the point is, you may not know, you know? Until you know.

 

[Rockable]

My question too. Casting studs into place, rather than bothering with drilling and tapping a die cast part, is not uncommon.


Over on a large motorcycle forum, there was a very, VERY long thread about removing the oil filter adapter from a BMW motorcycle engine. (Some idiot previous owner or "mekanik" had somehow mangled the threads.) This is the threaded bit sticking out of the engine you use to spin a canister oil filter into place. On damn near every other engine on the planet, this is a part with threads on both ends and it screws into the case.

Debate raged back and forth for months, until someone actually got so fed up that they bought a scrap engine case on eBay, then bandsawed the damn thing in half so they could settle the question once and for all. Turned out that BMW, in their unique German talent for drastically overcomplicating the simplest things, had actually cast the oil filter adapter into place.

Not that BMW has anything to do with Packard, but the point is, you may not know, you know? Until you know.

Threaded.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I effing HATE "die cast". I had 2 very cool, very well designed racing carbs out of the very late 1920's/early 1930's. Screaming meanies in their day, but yep, die cast. By the time I got them, one needed extensive work just to get it to barely function, one was beyond even that.
I kept thinking, why the hell did they not use at LEAST aluminum, but they didn't.

 

[Monza Harry]

My fear with that stud is you may get that out but split the die-cast housing doing it! I'd at minimum consider using some heat putty/paste to protect your part. There will be considerable force both radially and expansively. I would consider having that stud "lazer welded" (if that is an option near-ish your location) that is lower heat process than TIG and not as strong though but this is an anti-rotation screw, the big one would seem to be the primary anchor. Failing that pick a chemical weld product like Devcon or a distant 2nd "JB Weld"spray some lube (WD-40, Lemon Pledge, carnuba wax on a "Q-tip) into a nut, than slather with your weld putty of choice and finger thread the nut on . Wait for cure and remove the nut. I would practice on a scrap piece to determine the lubricant of choices effective lubricity. Just a few of my thoughts from years of breaking $#!+ Harry
Edit to add a link: heat putty https://www.refrigtech.com/wetrag/ there are many, Eastwood used to sell one as well, just a jumping off point.

 

[dutchgray]

I effing HATE "die cast". I had 2 very cool, very well designed racing carbs out of the very late 1920's/early 1930's. Screaming meanies in their day, but yep, die cast. By the time I got them, one needed extensive work just to get it to barely function, one was beyond even that.
I kept thinking, why the hell did they not use at LEAST aluminum, but they didn't.

Most of those pot metal mixes needed to be made very precisely to last, most of the foundry guys that did it were not so precise.
It's pot luck really if you got a good or bad batch.
Yes aluminium would have been far better for durability.

 

[Rockable]

Well, welding multiple nuts on finally shrunk the threaded studs enough to get them out. Unfortunately, the stud in the "short" end was cast into the casting. Apparently they inserted a hex bolt into the die and then cast the part. Anyway, that one now spins around and I decided to walk away. So, drilling it out will be difficult. I already have 2 good pieces, I was just trying to salvage this spare. I may get back to it some time. Thanks.