IDENTIFY THIS FLOOR JACK

[Cordts]

Can someone identify this floor jack. I believe I got it from sears in the 80’s. It’s leaking and I need to order parts. I can’t read the label on the top of the unit. I had this rebuilt by Tools and Hydro in Tennessee and less than a year later the pump valve is leaking. The rebuilder only gave me a 90 day warranty. Thanks

 

[captain14]

No picture shown.

 

[Cordts]

Well. I’ll try again and edit this post. Thanks Capt

 

[LB-1911]

Can someone identify this floor jack. I believe I got it from sears in the 80’s. It’s leaking and I need to order parts. I can’t read the label on the top of the unit. Thanks

Does it resemble the one @

Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Well after numerous requests ive decided to put together a tutorial that will assist you do it yourselfers resurect/maintain your Taiwan Jack. This tutorial will cover the Main version of these jacks and i will try to include any variances that you might encounter. Again your jack might be...

www.garagejournal.com

edit to add 2nd link 11:05

floor jack ID

I picked up this floor jack from a friend today. He said he bought it in 1964. I can't find anything on the model number, and don't see anything online that looks like it. He did say he thought it was a Hein-Werner pump. Anyone know what it is?, or what it's weight rating is?

www.garagejournal.com

 

[paulsomlo]

Some variant of Walker/Lincoln, here's a drawing: https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/walker_j122_service_jack_11.5_ton.pdf

When you're ready for parts: Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247

 

[ex-x-fire]

Looks like my 1960-70 Walker J122. I rebuilt mine with a kit and it did stop working a few years later, I'd like to swap out the hydro unit for a new one if they're out there.

 

[Cordts]

Some variant of Walker/Lincoln, here's a drawing: https://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/walker_j122_service_jack_11.5_ton.pdf

When you're ready for parts: Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247

Thanks Paul’s. I had this rebuilt a year ago ,, now the pump is leaking at the sleeve. Any suggestions ? This is a super nice jack and has served me well.

 

[paulsomlo]

I own one, but I've never been in it. When you say the "pump valve", do you mean the release valve or the pump? Looking at the diagram, there's an o ring that seals the release valve from the outside world. Search around here on the forum, these are common jacks and there may be a rebuild thread. Or on Youtube. If "Hiball" sees this, he'll have an answer, as he's probably rebuilt hundreds of these.

 

[Hiball]

Public service announcement… Don’t take anything to Tools and Hydro in TN.. Look at that tank nut.. Ouch.

On a more helpful note, If it’s leaking at the pump piston, which it appears it is. The entire assembly can be removed without removing the unit from the frame, Albeit easier to service with the unit locked in a vise. it will require a 1” wrench or socket if you remove all the caging/spring. It’s possible that the vee’s aren’t tightened enough or they where damaged upon installation. Impossible to know without putting eyes on the internals. I’m leaning towards too loose, unless some donkey tightened them down “prior” to pulling them into the cylinder and damaged them.

Btw J122/early 93632

 

[paulsomlo]

Public service announcement… Don’t take anything to Tools and Hydro in TN.. Look at that tank nut.. Ouch.

I didn't see that until I enlarged the picture - but they did paint it and make it look pretty.

 

[Hiball]

I didn't see that until I enlarged the picture - but they did paint it and make it look pretty.

Yep.. It appears to have met the blunt end of a punch with a Hammer following close behind.

 

[Cordts]

Public service announcement… Don’t take anything to Tools and Hydro in TN.. Look at that tank nut.. Ouch.

On a more helpful note, If it’s leaking at the pump piston, which it appears it is. The entire assembly can be removed without removing the unit from the frame, Albeit easier to service with the unit locked in a vise. it will require a 1” wrench or socket if you remove all the caging/spring. It’s possible that the vee’s aren’t tightened enough or they where damaged upon installation. Impossible to know without putting eyes on the internals. I’m leaning towards too loose, unless some donkey tightened them down “prior” to pulling them into the cylinder and damaged them.

Btw J122/early 93632

Hey. Thanks for the help. Are you referring to the Pump “V” Chevrons ??

 

[Hiball]

Hey. Thanks for the help. Are you referring to the Pump “V” Chevrons ??

Yes.

 

[Cordts]

Yes.

I’m just gonna go ahead and open it up and replace the Chevron’s. Do you know where I can source these? May be a part number? Any tips on installing them. Again, thank you for your help

 

[Hiball]

I’m just gonna go ahead and open it up and replace the Chevron’s. Do you know where I can source these? May be a part number? Any tips on installing them. Again, thank you for your help

Post #5 Has a good phone number for Hydraulic Parts supply in Sawyer KS.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I didn't see that until I enlarged the picture - but they did paint it and make it look pretty.

They repainted my whole jack when I took it in to them a few years ago. I was thinking WTF when I got it back.

 

[Cordts]

Public service announcement… Don’t take anything to Tools and Hydro in TN.. Look at that tank nut.. Ouch.

On a more helpful note, If it’s leaking at the pump piston, which it appears it is. The entire assembly can be removed without removing the unit from the frame, Albeit easier to service with the unit locked in a vise. it will require a 1” wrench or socket if you remove all the caging/spring. It’s possible that the vee’s aren’t tightened enough or they where damaged upon installation. Impossible to know without putting eyes on the internals. I’m leaning towards too loose, unless some donkey tightened them down “prior” to pulling them into the cylinder and damaged them.

Btw J122/early 93632

Hey there. The nut on the inside of the valve was really loose. Is there a tightening sequence or torque that I should use on that nut? I also realize that the nut was so loose that the plunger within the valve could easily move up and down

 

[Hiball]

It’s definitely too loose, there is No torque spec per say. I make all final torque settings with the cylinder in the bore.

1. Assemble everything back together, including spring, covers and c-clip.

2. Mount the hex portion in a vise.

3. Start tightening the nut in small increments and push down on the pump piston/release. As you tighten the nut, it’s squeezes the vee’s and increases cylinder wall pressure. You don’t want to over compress the seals to the point where they can’t overcome the spring. I’ve been doing it so long that it’s more of a feel, versus typing on keyboard. Once I’m happy with the feel, I dot punch where the nut meets the stem to prevent it from backing off.

Hope this helps.

I suppose it would be a good idea prior to reinstalling all the components and settings the compression to check the seals to make sure everything is in order. Always work from the bottom up when installing/removing the piston from the cylinder, Do NOT ever try to install/remove from the top side as it will damage the seals. It will require removing the splined pin, if it’s an older model.

 

[Cordts]

Well. I’ll try again and edit this post. Thanks Capt

It’s definitely too loose, there is No torque spec per say. I make all final torque settings with the cylinder in the bore.

1. Assemble everything back together, including spring, covers and c-clip.

2. Mount the hex portion in a vise.

3. Start tightening the nut in small increments and push down on the pump piston/release. As you tighten the nut, it’s squeezes the vee’s and increases cylinder wall pressure. You don’t want to over compress the seals to the point where they can’t overcome the spring. I’ve been doing it so long that it’s more of a feel, versus typing on keyboard. Once I’m happy with the feel, I dot punch where the nut meets the stem to prevent it from backing off.

Hope this helps.

I suppose it would be a good idea prior to reinstalling all the components and settings the compression to check the seals to make sure everything is in order. Always work from the bottom up when installing/removing the piston from the cylinder. It will require removing the splined pin, if it’s an older model.

Yeah. That splined pin didn’t want to move

 

[Cordts]

Yeah. That splined pin didn’t want to move

Yeah. That splined pin didn’t want to move

Thank you Hiball

 

[Hiball]

Yeah. That splined pin didn’t want to move

They can be a bear, Big Hammer, starting punch and finish with a pin punch. Try it both ways, sometimes it will go one way or the other more easily, especially if you see any swelling on one end or the other. It will require a solid base, I normally open the vise jaws just enough to cradle it and give it some whacks.

 

[Cordts]

Thanks for all your help. I finally worked on this and sure enough, the nut that holds the chevrons in place was loose. All good now.