Illuminating Area Near Barn

[Bull]

I am interested in adding some kind of light to the gable end of my barn so that the parking area in front of it, and maybe some of the nearby driveway are not pitch black. I added two wall fixtures to the barn some time ago (not pictured) but they don't throw much with a 75 or 100w incandescent in each.

I'm really not even sure what I should be looking for. I am not particularly concerned with style...function is preferable here.

 

[930dreamer]

Bull do you have 240v power available for a light? Maybe a mercury vapor type light.

 

[paullie]

i have a double "spot light" fixture on the gable end of my house and have the CFL type of spot lights in it and i'm really impressed with how much light they put out

 

[Bull]

Bull do you have 240v power available for a light? Maybe a mercury vapor type light.

I have one 220 or 240 (not sure) outlet in the downstairs of the garage for my compressor, but that's it.

i have a double "spot light" fixture on the gable end of my house and have the CFL type of spot lights in it and i'm really impressed with how much light they put out

What brand is it?


I left out some important details: economy is a concern. In other words, I don't want a light that uses so much power that my electric bills will be huge. Also, I don't have the ability to control these lights from inside my house, so something with a photocell would be best.

 

[930dreamer]

Maybe something like this. 120V motion detector, 150w. On a side note, Our Restore Store has a bunch of new industrial outdoor lights for $45 each, not sure of the voltage etc.

 

[OccupantRJ]

The sodium area lights are available in 120 volts.

 

[ishiboo]

35W wall pack will probably give you the light you need at an incredibly low operating cost.

You don't need 240v, 35 watts is practically a quarter of an amp at 120v.

 

[ishiboo]

Actually, depending on the size you may go with a 50 or 70W as well... hard to tell how far you want to extend out. Realize that the wall packs typically have a photo diode and take a couple minutes to warm up before they provide light.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I don't know what kind of lights you already have, but in this application you probably want a floodlight - rather than just making a pool of light underneath the fixture like a wallpack, it will throw out a swath in front of the building.

I get catalogs from these guys all the time but I haven't bought from them. http://www.e-conolight.com/floods.html Unfortunately they don't have any photometric charts so it's hard to judge just what kind of light pattern they have, but their prices seem pretty good.

 

[brokenknee]

I have a nickel metal hydrate that the electric company put up. It is a 100 watt comes on at dark goes off at dawn. I pay a flat fee to electric company of $6 a month. It does not go through the meter. May want to check out if your electric company does something similar.

 

[Norcal]

35W wall pack will probably give you the light you need at an incredibly low operating cost.

You don't need 240v, 35 watts is practically a quarter of an amp at 120v.

You would be surprised on how much the cheap wall packs consume, spend the dough on one with a quality ballast & enjoy low operating costs, buy a cheap one & pay the PoCo.

 

[Bull]

Can some of you fellows recommend specific brands or models? Something that isn't a shoddily made piece of garbage, throws good light, has or can be equipped with a photocell, and is economical?

 

[larry_g]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HM7MKM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have two of the above lights

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HM7MKM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I also have two the the #2 lamps on the above page.

The Dualbrite lights I really like. The first link lights run at 1/2 power all night until the sensor detects motion ant then it goes full bright. The second link #2 and also the sensor #5 have a setting for 1/2 power at 3 or 6 hours after dark then it drops to a slight glow or goes full bright when motion is sensed. I have come to really like the Dualbrite feature. They are also like most motion sensor lights in that they can be forced to full bright by cycling the power quickly to the sensor.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[StaggeringGoat]

I have a nickel metal hydrate that the electric company put up.

LOL, that's a type of battery. What you're thinking of is metal halide, which produces much nicer, whiter light than the high pressure sodium fixtures do.

I would definately avoid any type of halogen light.

 

[StaggeringGoat]

I used to have something like this outside my carport, it was great. 100w metal halide gives off a ton of nice white light, without too much power consumption.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[letz4wheel]

I also pay the power company for a pole light. They come out, install it and maintain it. For that privilege I pay them $5 a month.

 

[jbs]

I have this one
It does a great job lighting up the whole area

I had good experience with 1000bulbs (think it was recommended by someone here), but I'm sure you can find similar fixtures elsewhere. They have other types (CFL, MH, HPS), and wattages as well.

 

[jlckmj]

I use the one in the link below, it throws very good light, relatively cheap, dusk to dawn feature, and has lasted 5 years now without any problems.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Jim

 

[pattenp]

I've got a couple of these from HD and they give out good light.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...ooglebase-_-D27X-_-100130020&locStoreNum=4608

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

I use the one in the link below, it throws very good light, relatively cheap, dusk to dawn feature, and has lasted 5 years now without any problems.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Jim

I have the same unit (high pressure sodium) above the garage at my previous house. It's been there for 9+ years. I've changed the bulb twice and the dusk-to-dawn sensor once. Throws out a lot of light, love it. I mounted mine high to keep the previous car vandals from tampering with it plus it made working on the cars easier when dark out. Basically it's a street lamp 12' above the driveway

 

[StaggeringGoat]

I don't understand why people are still using high pressure sodium lights when metal halides are available. Any fixture available in sodium is available in metal halide. Metal halide gives off much nicer light than the ugly yellow light from sodium. Wattage and light output is very similar. You would never use HPS lights indoors, why use them outdoors? They even sell metal halide conversion bulbs for sodium fixtures...

High pressure sodium lights are slightly more efficient, that's why they use them for street lights, but you'll notice most commercial areas lit up with metal halide. The difference for one bulb is nothing.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Can some of you fellows recommend specific brands or models? Something that isn't a shoddily made piece of garbage, throws good light, has or can be equipped with a photocell, and is economical?

Bull you are "over thinking" this problem (and of course the simple low cost solution is lost in the chafe here).

Go to your favorite "big box" store (or even Walmart) and buy a "standard" 2 light outdoor spotlight fixture.

You can get these for between $10-$30, depending if they have no sensors, optical (day/night) senors or optical and motion sensor (not sure how well the motion sensor will work from near the top of the gable). Brand is not that important. (See below for the "ounce of prevention".) None of them are "lifetime", but even the cheapies will probably last 10 years. Make certain that water can not get into the mounting box/wiring.

While you are shopping, pickup a pair of standard screw in ("edison screw base") CFL spot/flood light bulbs. Also some silicon dielectric grease. Yes, grease the threads before installing.

Despite what the "experts" will tell you, CFLs will work in cold weather (at least down to zero). When cold it will take them a minute or so to get to maximum brightness.

Probably, less than $40 total, without wire and mounting boxes.

 

[brokenknee]

LOL, that's a type of battery. What you're thinking of is metal halide, which produces much nicer, whiter light than the high pressure sodium fixtures do.

I would definately avoid any type of halogen light.

OOPS Your right,

 

[jbs]

I don't understand why people are still using high pressure sodium lights when metal halides are available. Any fixture available in sodium is available in metal halide. Metal halide gives off much nicer light than the ugly yellow light from sodium. Wattage and light output is very similar. You would never use HPS lights indoors, why use them outdoors? They even sell metal halide conversion bulbs for sodium fixtures...

High pressure sodium lights are slightly more efficient, that's why they use them for street lights, but you'll notice most commercial areas lit up with metal halide. The difference for one bulb is nothing.

I agree that MH gives off generally better light, but I didn't care too much about the quality of light. The fixture was significantly cheaper, and I didn't see too many (any?) 400W MH fixtures. Also, I recall reading that the bulb life and efficiency of HPS is more than just slightly better than MH. However, that said, I think I would go with MH if I was going to be doing a significant amount of work under it.

 

[Hal]

I have a nickel metal hydrate that the electric company put up. It is a 100 watt comes on at dark goes off at dawn. I pay a flat fee to electric company of $6 a month. It does not go through the meter. May want to check out if your electric company does something similar.

I also pay the power company for a pole light. They come out, install it and maintain it. For that privilege I pay them $5 a month.

You guys are making me puke!!! $5 a month was what my dad was paying for our light in 1957 when the power company first installed it. My last month's bill for the same light was over $40. It's their light on their pole, and I have no idea how many watts, but it looks like any other mercury vapor street lamp. I need to have them take it down, and hang my own light or lights on the shop itself, but the lights I have tried so far have been junk, besides not covering the area as well as the one on the pole. I am also willing to bet that the metered usage would come right back up and bite me just as hard.

 

[BFBOB]

One of my hobbies is astronomy, so I'm more conscious of light pollution than most.

SOAPBOX MODE=ON

Whatever type of light you use, make sure it is a Full Cutoff fixture. This type of fixture, installed properly, sends NO light upwards, thus not adding to skyglow. It also illuminates better. I assume you want to see your barn from your house? A properly shielded light will light up the ground and building you're trying to see, not shine in your eyes, making it harder to see. Traditional Wall-packs are among the worst, sending as much as 40% of their light up and out, where it does you no good. That's wasted money, because a properly shielded fixture needs a smaller bulb. There are full-cutoff wall-packs, but they're a bit hard to find so far. Floods and spots (PAR 40's and the CFL equivalents) are very good because of their directional nature. Shine the light down; lighting up the undersides of airplanes does you no good.

SOAPBOX MODE=OFF

 

[ishiboo]

I have a nickel metal hydrate that the electric company put up. It is a 100 watt comes on at dark goes off at dawn. I pay a flat fee to electric company of $6 a month. It does not go through the meter. May want to check out if your electric company does something similar.

Damn... ours charges over $17 for a yard-light!

 

[Norcal]

One reason to use high pressure sodium, HPS over metal halide, MH is lamp life, most MH lamps 250 watts & smaller only have a 12000 hour life, VS 20000 for HPS, a good example is the wallpack over my garage door was installed in 2000 or 2001 & the same lamp (35W HPS) is still going strong if the same fixture had been ballasted for MH the lamp would have failed long ago....

 

[Agent1320]

Last night I went to Lowe's and bought a $36 Dusk To Dawn light. I mounted it about 10' high on the outside wall of my warehouse. The light is very bright and says it has 10,000 hours of life, so basically about 2 years before I have to replace the $7 bulb. It tuned off right before sunrise and came on just after sunset. I'm very happy with it for being such a simple and affordable light that gets the job done. It says it covers 207sqft, but the glow from the light projects about 50 feet out and about 50 feet across in my parking lot.

 

[Greatbear]

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I second this fixture. Mount it above your upper windows, and aim it down and slightly forward. The MH bulb will last for many years, so no need to get a ladder out every year or two to replace halogen spots. I helped a neighbor of my FIL install one of these on the side of his barn a few years ago about a dozen feet up, replacing a mercury vapor fixture on the corner that was at most 8 feet up. Far more usable light, it is directed down where it does the most good, and does not blast the side of the nearby house with light at night.

 

[StaggeringGoat]

One reason to use high pressure sodium, HPS over metal halide, MH is lamp life, most MH lamps 250 watts & smaller only have a 12000 hour life, VS 20000 for HPS

That's still WAY longer than halogen or CFLs can last. Just comparing 100w bulbs on 1000bulbs.com,
100w Metal Halide = 15,000 hours, 9,000 lumens
100w HPS = 24,000 hours and 9,500 lumens

Say 10 hours of use per night, 15,000 hours is over 4 years.

 

[Dragster Racer]

One of my hobbies is astronomy, so I'm more conscious of light pollution than most.

SOAPBOX MODE=ON

Whatever type of light you use, make sure it is a Full Cutoff fixture. This type of fixture, installed properly, sends NO light upwards, thus not adding to skyglow. It also illuminates better. I assume you want to see your barn from your house? A properly shielded light will light up the ground and building you're trying to see, not shine in your eyes, making it harder to see. Traditional Wall-packs are among the worst, sending as much as 40% of their light up and out, where it does you no good. That's wasted money, because a properly shielded fixture needs a smaller bulb. There are full-cutoff wall-packs, but they're a bit hard to find so far. Floods and spots (PAR 40's and the CFL equivalents) are very good because of their directional nature. Shine the light down; lighting up the undersides of airplanes does you no good.

SOAPBOX MODE=OFF

I'm right there with ya. The night sky is something a lot of kids these days don't get to enjoy. It's a shame. Reflect the light back down where you want and need it. Simple.

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

I'm right there with ya. The night sky is something a lot of kids these days don't get to enjoy. It's a shame. Reflect the light back down where you want and need it. Simple.

After my driveway light that's what I did with the other security lights around the old house. I grew up in the country and could see billions of stars, meteor showers, and satellites. Now in the suburbs it's very difficult to see the astro-phenomena and I find it frustrating, thus the downward pointing lighting.

 

[brokenknee]

You guys are making me puke!!! $5 a month was what my dad was paying for our light in 1957 when the power company first installed it. My last month's bill for the same light was over $40. It's their light on their pole, and I have no idea how many watts, but it looks like any other mercury vapor street lamp. I need to have them take it down, and hang my own light or lights on the shop itself, but the lights I have tried so far have been junk, besides not covering the area as well as the one on the pole. I am also willing to bet that the metered usage would come right back up and bite me just as hard.

Damn... ours charges over $17 for a yard-light!

Yep, just six bucks a month. They do all the maintenance, light burns out they replace it, photo eye goes out they replace it, ballast goes bad, ya you guessed it, they replace it.

Before I had it installed, I asked what the cost for electricity would be if I installed my own, the guy said about six bucks a month. Is it a deal, I think so. If they were to jack up the price to $17 bucks or more I would have them take it down and install my own.

 

[Stargeezer]

Man if you want the best illumination device for that barn-then just get a "Floodzilla". End of story! ha Ha

http://www.rabweb.com/product_line_detail.php?prodline=FZFLDFloodzilla yard Light

They also make a hood for it, which can help direct the flood. Not too much money; considering the area that gets lit.

 

[Stargeezer]

Yep, just six bucks a month. They do all the maintenance, light burns out they replace it, photo eye goes out they replace it, ballast goes bad, ya you guessed it, they replace it.

Before I had it installed, I asked what the cost for electricity would be if I installed my own, the guy said about six bucks a month. Is it a deal, I think so. If they were to jack up the price to $17 bucks or more I would have them take it down and install my own.

I would only have them put one in if it was switched. Sometimes you need the big yard light off. I have mine switched and only pop it on when I need it. We like dark skies for the most part. FYI

 

[paullie]

Bull you are "over thinking" this problem (and of course the simple low cost solution is lost in the chafe here).

Go to your favorite "big box" store (or even Walmart) and buy a "standard" 2 light outdoor spotlight fixture.

You can get these for between $10-$30, depending if they have no sensors, optical (day/night) senors or optical and motion sensor (not sure how well the motion sensor will work from near the top of the gable). Brand is not that important. (See below for the "ounce of prevention".) None of them are "lifetime", but even the cheapies will probably last 10 years. Make certain that water can not get into the mounting box/wiring.

While you are shopping, pickup a pair of standard screw in ("edison screw base") CFL spot/flood light bulbs. Also some silicon dielectric grease. Yes, grease the threads before installing.

Despite what the "experts" will tell you, CFLs will work in cold weather (at least down to zero). When cold it will take them a minute or so to get to maximum brightness.

Probably, less than $40 total, without wire and mounting boxes.[


this is what i am talking about in my post

 

[BFBOB]

My PoCo (wasn't that a band in the 70's) refused to put a switch on my yard light. Seems they regard it as a "security light" and didn't want the liability in case it failed to prevent a burglary because I had turned it off. Huh??? The lineman said, and of course we don't want you tampering with it (wink, wink). So, I put my own switch on it.
(yes, did it hot. proper precautions, fiberglass ladder)
PoCo has been out a few times since, said nary a word.

 

[RoadBeater]

I've got a Hubbell 75 Watt HPS yard blaster light. Works great, $3 a month electric usage. The only issue is I'd like to find a shield for it to keep the glare down when I look out. Anyone know of any shield for these? Thanks!

 

[Norcal]

I've got a Hubbell 75 Watt HPS yard blaster light. Works great, $3 a month electric usage. The only issue is I'd like to find a shield for it to keep the glare down when I look out. Anyone know of any shield for these? Thanks!

The only 75 watt HID source is Mercury Vapor, which is obsolete, HPS, & MH are 70 watt.