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I'm doing epoxy, and I'm not changing my mind again!

climb.on

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Apr 13, 2015
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Minnesota
Back and forth, back and forth! Lots of research here and elsewhere, but I've finally landed on some decisions and the prep has begun!

I have a 900sq/ft attached garage, that will be used primarily of parking cars, 4 wheeler and lawnmower. It will likely see the most difficult test with all the salt and slop coming in/out everyday. I was leaning toward a sealer, but in the end, I just don't have confidence in the wizardry of a 100 year Ghostshield warranty, as it's supposed to be the best and maybe it is, but claims like this, just make me lose all confidence. In fairness I don't have much confidence in most any warranty. 99% of the time it's a BS marketing tactic. Plus I feel like epoxy will hold up better in the long run, in my situation.

I am also doing a 1700 sq/ft shop, same color, same product, same prep.

Decided to just etch. I have new 4000pis power troweled concrete (poured in Oct) and I ready too many stories about Diamabrush and grinder fiascos. Etching is done - easy peasy.

I am using a polyurea joint filler in the saw cuts. Putting this down tonight.

Epoxy will be PPG's Amerlock 2/400. Not originally designed for concrete, but it used for that application all the time and it is spec'd and used regularly in industrial situations all the time. I have spoke with 2 different painters who have laid hundreds of gallons of this stuff on concrete, from pump stations to airplane hangers with great success and highly recommend it. Very good price too. No 100 year warranty though. :headscrat

I am going with a light grey color. I really want a light colored floor, but I hope I don't regret it as it will show dirt way more, I'm afraid. Anyone regret going to light? Colors pallet attached. On the wall I will go with an off white for the top 9' and a dark grey for the bottom 3'. Some kind of vinyl stripe to break between them...maybe red or black.

I will use Sharkgrip anti-slip in the final coat.

One decision I haven't made yet, but need to in the next 24 hours...clear coat or no clear coat....
 

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mike93lx

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Dark colors show dirt the most. Silver/grey is the most forgiving.

If you want to hide dirt, flake might help.
 

White Shadow

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Jan 26, 2014
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985
My epoxy floor was great....for a few years....until I got chips in it and hot tires eventually started to lift it. Then I had the pros come in a grind it all down and do it the epoxy right....and it looked good for a few more years...until I got chips and hot tires eventually started to lift it. Then I decided I was done with epoxy forever.

But good luck with yours!
 
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climb.on

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My epoxy floor was great....for a few years....until I got chips in it and hot tires eventually started to lift it. Then I had the pros come in a grind it all down and do it the epoxy right....and it looked good for a few more years...until I got chips and hot tires eventually started to lift it. Then I decided I was done with epoxy forever.

But good luck with yours!

Damn you White Shadow!
 

Gear Box

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I have polyaspartic urethane it has been very good. Going on 4 years. Cleans up like new after I clean all the states salt and the cities sand off. Epoxy is too hard in my opinion for MN.
 

White Shadow

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Damn you White Shadow!

LOL, that's just my experience. I'm sure if you look hard enough, you'll find someone who has an epoxy floor that has withstood the test of time.

FWIW, at work we hired a professional floor finishing company to put down what was supposed to be an extremely durable "epoxy-like" finish that was 1/2 the cost of a Stonhard floor. It too couldn't take the abuse and now it's beginning to chip and peel after four years. In all honesty, we should have just paid the price for Stonhard because it that's the only thing that can seemingly take tons of abuse without getting damaged.
 

MNMike

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Lino Lakes, MN
Subscribed,
I will be following this for updates. I just built a 28x32 detached and want to do Epoxy.

Good Luck ,
Mike
 

HAULNSS

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MN
Subscribed,
I will be following this for updates. I just built a 28x32 detached and want to do Epoxy.

Good Luck ,
Mike

LOL. Same here. I just built a 30x40 and am torn on floor options.

Randy
 

ldjbuff

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Jan 18, 2018
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I am in the same boat, back and forth with my garage. (900 Sq FT). My house won't be done until mid May so I do have some time to still think about it all. Maybe Racedeck stuff but who knows lol. I actually like the look of concrete but want a shine too. I know Legacy has some stuff but when I call they are busy as **** and end up getting a receptionist each time.
 
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climb.on

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LOL, that's just my experience. I'm sure if you look hard enough, you'll find someone who has an epoxy floor that has withstood the test of time.
***** that you had in fail twice...damn. That's the hard part, you read so much good and bad about all the options.

Porcelain tile would look awesome in there

Yes it would. Just couldn't go there for several reasons.

Subscribed,
I will be following this for updates. I just built a 28x32 detached and want to do Epoxy.

PM Sent

I am in the same boat, back and forth with my garage. (900 Sq FT). My house won't be done until mid May so I do have some time to still think about it all. Maybe Racedeck stuff but who knows lol. I actually like the look of concrete but want a shine too. I know Legacy has some stuff but when I call they are busy as **** and end up getting a receptionist each time.

I almost rented grinding equipment and polished everything. In the end there were too many unknowns and it wasn't going to be cheap...even DIY. Denisfier/sealer is easy as it gets and if you don't mind doing it every few years, it might be a great option.

I had same thing when I tried Legacy several times. Oh well.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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***** that you had in fail twice...damn. That's the hard part, you read so much good and bad about all the options.







Yes it would. Just couldn't go there for several reasons.







PM Sent







I almost rented grinding equipment and polished everything. In the end there were too many unknowns and it wasn't going to be cheap...even DIY. Denisfier/sealer is easy as it gets and if you don't mind doing it every few years, it might be a great option.



I had same thing when I tried Legacy several times. Oh well.



Sorry to hear. You can leave a message for a returned call or send us an email. Fortunately, business has exploded since Christmas.
[email protected]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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climb.on

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First coat is down in the attached garage. Shop will be next week - same color though. It was so light I kinda freaked at first, especially with the contrast between the dark bare concrete and the light paint. But now that the whole floor has a coat, I really like it. Now all I need is a Learjet...or two.
 

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Armorpoxy

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Always best to topcoat an epoxy, as all epoxies by their nature are not that chemical, stain or dirt resistant. A good urethane or polyaspartic topcoat will add years if life. Also we recommend pigmented topcoats instead of clear unless you use flecks.
 
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climb.on

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Always best to topcoat an epoxy, as all epoxies by their nature are not that chemical, stain or dirt resistant. A good urethane or polyaspartic topcoat will add years if life. Also we recommend pigmented topcoats instead of clear unless you use flecks.

That's interesting. I do see most "systems" have a top coat option, but if that top layer is so good, why not just use 3 coats of it? Just curious.
 

Armorpoxy

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Because topcoats are not nearly as thick as epoxy and the generally don't stick well to concrete alone.
 
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climb.on

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The 900 sq/ft attached garage is now done. Turned out good. There are a few things I'll be doing different in the shop, particularly around the drains. I may thin the first coat a bit too. It didn't flow out as much as I'd like and left a lot of texture. The Urethane Enamel topcoat was the nastiest smelling stuff I have ever been around. I've sprayed thousands of gallons of various clear coats on woodwork, and nothing ever came close to this stuff wow. I sort of wondered if it was going to start peeling the paint off the freaking walls. If it holds up as well as it stinks...I'm good to go. I'm a little nervous about managing the extra square footage of the larger shop...
 

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climb.on

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climb,
Are you using PPG's PMC AMERSHIELD polyester-acrylic aliphatic polyurethane for topcoat (the stinky stuff)?

I used the Amerlock Epoxy, but I used their Pitthane urethane as a top coat. That's what they recommend instead of the Amershield, as it was about double the price I think. I can't imagine anything stingier than what the Pitthane was...good god!
 
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climb.on

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Prep in the shop is done. ~350' of control joints are filled. First coat of epoxy tonight. I used Versa Flex SL85 for the joints. Some crazy stuff. First I filled the joint with foam backer (the insertion tool is a must - worked awesome), then shoot the 2 part polyurea filler in joint, overfilling it. 10 minutes later, its cured and can be shaved off flush. Very clean.
 

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rattle_snake

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I used the Amerlock Epoxy, but I used their Pitthane urethane as a top coat. That's what they recommend instead of the Amershield, as it was about double the price I think. I can't imagine anything stingier than what the Pitthane was...good god!

Can you please detail the coverage (sqft/gal) you got for the 900 sqft on both products and how many coats of each you put down? If thinned, how much and which thinner. aka how many gallons of what.
Thanks.
(This isn't just so I can possibly benefit from your endeavor, it's for all of GJ :))
 
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climb.on

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First coat is down. 2nd coat later today. Struggling to decide wether to do the clear top coat (acrylic aliphatic urethane) or not on this one. It loks good, but costs about another $500. Anti-slip goes in the last coat, so gotta decide by noon!
 

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climb.on

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Can you please detail the coverage (sqft/gal) you got for the 900 sqft on both products and how many coats of each you put down? If thinned, how much and which thinner. aka how many gallons of what.
Thanks.
(This isn't just so I can possibly benefit from your endeavor, it's for all of GJ :))
Here you go...

Epoxy Base Coats:
PPG Amerlock 2/400 high solids epoxy for the 2 base coats. Data sheet HERE. Brochure HERE.

Clear Top Coat:
PPG Pitthane top coat which is a two-component, high build semi-gloss acrylic aliphatic urethane. Data sheet HERE.

Joint Filler:
VersaFlex SL/85 two part polyurea filler in the shop. Requires a double tube gun (which I'll be selling no that I'm done with it). Overfill the crack and shave it off flush 10 minutes later. In the attached garage I used Sherwin Williams 2 part polyurea joint filler in a single tube (cost too much and didn't go far), so I switched to the Versaflex.

-Thinner is Xylene.
-H&C Shark Grip anti slip additive, in the top coat.
-Concrete slabs are new, poured in Oct, machine power troweled.
-Prep: floors were rinsed, acid etched, rinsed again, dry overnight, joint filled, and painted the next day.

Attached Garage:
900 sq/ft
1st coat epoxy 5 gallons
2nd coat epoxy 3.5 gallons
3rd coat clear 3 gallons

Shop
1700 sq/ft
370 ln/ft of saw cuts 1/8" wide 1/4" deep
8 twin 600ml tubes of joint filler
1st coat epoxy 9 gallons (thinned about 20oz in 5 gallons - should do a bit more)
2nd coat epoxy 6 gallons
3rd coat clear 6 gallons (should have used 7) (thinned about 30oz in 5 gallons - should have thinned it at 15%, especially when adding SharkGrip it really thickens it up)
4th coat clear 5 gallons (after the 1st coat of clear, I didn't like how it laid down since it was so thick putting it on. I applied it rather unevenly. So I recoated and thinned this material much more (15%) and it is much better now. A rather expensive mistake.

Total cost:
With all material and supplies ~$1.50 sq/ft. Would have been about $1.00 sq/ft if I had gone with a less expensive joint filler and no clear top coat.
 
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climb.on

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All done. Can't wait to start getting my tools in there and start scratching, burning, over-spraying and chipping the hell out of this new floor! :thumbup:
 

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