I'm doing it:30x48 pole garage

[jonese]

I'm going to give my builder the go ahead to start my garage. He wants to get started on it ASAP but I'm going to have him start just after labor day because I'll be out of town and want to be there during the construction. I want to make sure this goes perfect and there aren't any shoulda woulda couldas. These buildings go up very quick so I won't have a lot of time to make changes or address concerns once it's started. What questions should I bring up now before he starts? I think the majority of questions I have are about the concrete. It's going to be 4" except where I plan to do a two post lift in a few years. I think I'll have them do two 18"x18" pads 8" thick where the posts will go eventually. Also I will be doing some sort of coating on the concrete as soon as it's fully cured but I don't know what sort of finish to have them do. Is just a bull float fine or should it be smoothed really well or brushed? I've searched that topic specifically and got several different opinions on what is best. I'll be tackling the electrical work with my brother-in-law who is an electrician.
What else should I ask about? Thanks everyone.

Here are the specs:
30x48x12 Pole Building
(2) 32"x54" windows (if I want additional windows add $175.00 for each one)
(1) 36"x80" steel entry door
(2) 10x10 insulated roll up doors
4" concrete, with additional build up for future lift
fully insulated
29 gauge metal roofing and siding

This is going up in rural South Carolina.

 

[larry_g]

One thing I have done on both of my buildings is use a full insulated vapor barrier on walls and roof. It is a plastic barrier with ~2" of fiberglass on it that makes things quiet and no problems with condensation in the building. You can see it in some of my build pictures. Make sure that you know exactly where the reinforced pads are for the lift.

lg
no neat sigline

 

[jonese]

Is the plastic liner white? I believe that's the stuff they used when they built my wife's barn a few years back. I'm pretty sure they'll use that on my garage as well. Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to check out your pictures.

 

[paullie]

i have a 3ox 40 pole barn and i would suggest to make the floor smooth as glass(easier to keep clean), i like more than a 4 inch floor, dont skimp on the steel, rebar not that wire ****, control joints on the floor, if possible put in a bathroom and i wish i would have put 1 big door in instead of 2 10x 10's

 

[jonese]

One big door huh? How big? Does that come out cheaper? And I was thinking a coat of epoxy will smooth out a little roughness. No?

 

[383]

I'm building a 30x32 for myself now. I have worked for a company that builds post frame buildings for over 20 years. I used ESP foil insulation under the roof, here are a couple of pictures.

make sure they trowel the floor glass smooth, not just bull float it. I totally agree on the rebar instead of wire or fiber mesh. I've been waiting on my concrete finisher for over 2 weeks, hope he gets here soon. Here is a picture with rebar.

One big door is usually cheaper than 2 doors, but most people prefer 2, myself included.

 

[camarotoolman]

Whats wrong with wire mesh? Around here thats about they use in residential slabs.

 

[camarotoolman]

I like sky lights, lots of light and saves electric.

 

[383]

Whats wrong with wire mesh? Around here thats about they use in residential slabs.

Nothing is wrong with it really. A lot of times it works great. But we have had a lot more cracks and problems when we used wire than when we used rebar.

 

[mtwaterguy]

Be sure to address the framing of the walls. Since you are talking insulation, it sounds like you will be insulating them also. I've always used the term "commercial girt installation", but different locations may have different terminology. I am specifically referring to the installation of the horizontal 2x's in the walls. If you install the girts inside the posts, instead of on the outside of the post, using a 2x the width of your post, you are framing the inside and outside wall at the same time. Less material, less labor and you are building a stronger building.

 

[cyamaha2007]

look into spay foam and frame it like the above poster said. Ive done it and it works out real nice.

 

[paullie]

One big door huh? How big? Does that come out cheaper? And I was thinking a coat of epoxy will smooth out a little roughness. No?

if you are like most guys, you will have **** in your shop and when you need to pull a car in you have to move stuff around, with a big door i think i gives more options pulling in, size wise i would have went at least 16' instead of my 10x10's, cant comment on the epoxy my floor is a plain jane but it's smooth as glass

 

[silverwing81]

I had my concrete colored and then sealed it, also I went with a 18" band of clear fiberglass around the whole building instead of windows and sky lights that leak.

 

[Kevin54]

Don't settle for a bull float finish. Have them power trowel it smooth and burnish it to seal it somewhat.

 

[jonese]

I was thinking about the one big door idea and I don't think it would work seeing as how the garage will be post built. The posts will be 12 feet apart so a 10' door is about as big as I can go.

 

[SteelHorseHD]

I was thinking about the one big door idea and I don't think it would work seeing as how the garage will be post built. The posts will be 12 feet apart so a 10' door is about as big as I can go.

That is very simple to fix. If your door will be on the gable end your truss will act as your header(but i would recommend reinforcing it). If it will be on the side wall all you have to do is space out your posts far enough and add a header.

 

[383]

I was thinking about the one big door idea and I don't think it would work seeing as how the garage will be post built. The posts will be 12 feet apart so a 10' door is about as big as I can go.

I have framed several post frame garages with 16' overhead doors. Just need to add enough header to carry the load unless it's in the endwall. I'm building myself a 30x32, and I have a 16' opening in one side.