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I'm installing a Mini Split this weekend

ad244

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Apr 13, 2022
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I still have a couple questions and things to buy. I have a 18,000 Pioneer Diamante Ultra going into a 600sf uninsulated garage (in Phoenix) and I am debating installing the condenser above where the air handler is being installed about 20ft on the side of my house.

I have the whip and disconnect panel purchased but I have not bought the conduit or wire from the panel to the disconnect box. Is it code to use Romex or should I be using THHN wiring? Metal conduit, outdoors in a dry climate?

Has anybody had issues with cutting the 16ft lines down to about 10 ft? I assume this is within the operational limits?

I am planning on using masonry screws to install the air handler and disconnect but should I use lag bolts into the block masonry garage instead for the condenser mount?

Its suppose to be 102 degrees this coming Monday and I am excited to test out the performance of the split. Thanks to all those who have posted and helped this long time lurker.
 
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pcmeiners

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Roughly 90 lbs for the condenser and a small amount of vibration, best to use lag bolts.

Most linesets have a 10ft minimum, your pushing it. You may get some irritating noise due to vibration from the condenser through the evaporator.

"Its suppose to be 102 degrees this coming Monday"

Can't help you with that. I am pretty good, but not that good.
 
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ad244

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Apr 13, 2022
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Roughly 90 lbs for the condenser and a small amount of vibration, best to use lag bolts.

Most linesets have a 10ft minimum, your pushing it. You may get some irritating noise due to vibration from the condenser through the evaporator.

"Its suppose to be 102 degrees this coming Monday"

Can't help you with that. I am pretty good, but not that good.

Thanks for the input. I can leave a little excess but I intend on cutting the lines down some rather than coiling them.

I believe the unit comes with lag bolts but if not I will go out and buy some. Im pretty notorious for overthinking plans.
 

racecougar

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Missouri
If I follow the question correctly, you're asking if you can run Romex inside metal conduit (I'll venture a guess that we're talking about EMT?). No, you should not run Romex inside conduit. Use THHN. Also, even in a "dry" climate, I would suggest rigid, liquid-tight, or at least using compression fittings if you're going to use EMT outdoors.

Are you stating that the outdoor unit will be 20' off the ground? If so, be sure to consider serviceability at that height.
 

Jackfre

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A roof mount you can work on. 16’ up a side wall, no! There is a lot going on in the install, but if you have a problem, Things get a lot more involved and dangerous. Difficult to do good work in a precarious position.
 

SVibs

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Nov 14, 2021
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MA. no, VA, no wait; what day is it?
A roof mount you can work on. 16’ up a side wall, no! There is a lot going on in the install, but if you have a problem, Things get a lot more involved and dangerous. Difficult to do good work in a precarious position.
Not to mention that finding a safe place to to set down your nitrogen tank for the pressure test and a vacuum pump for evacuation is going to be nearly impossible. Is there a particular reason you need to mount it up so high? It sounds like your current line set is too short to get you to ground level but a 25' line set would get you to ground level and would avoid the refrigerant overcharge issue caused by cutting the line set down to 10'.
 
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ad244

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Apr 13, 2022
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Thanks guys for being worried about my safety but Ive got scaffolding in place.

Mounting it so high would allow it to stay well out of the way. Yes its annoying getting it up there but once its there, It should stay out of the way for years.
 
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ad244

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Apr 13, 2022
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If I follow the question correctly, you're asking if you can run Romex inside metal conduit (I'll venture a guess that we're talking about EMT?). No, you should not run Romex inside conduit. Use THHN. Also, even in a "dry" climate, I would suggest rigid, liquid-tight, or at least using compression fittings if you're going to use EMT outdoors.

Are you stating that the outdoor unit will be 20' off the ground? If so, be sure to consider serviceability at that height.

Correct, THHN is what I bought. Thank you.

Correct. Like they install them on the sides of hotels and apartment buildings in other countries.
 
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Shiftless

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I bet that even minimum insulation will keep you from running that AC for so many hours during the summer. Is your electricity really cheap?
 

Jim greengo

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Behind my house
Thanks guys for being worried about my safety but Ive got scaffolding in place.

Mounting it so high would allow it to stay well out of the way. Yes its annoying getting it up there but once its there, It should stay out of the way for years.
I hate scaffolding even more than ladders,especially that high.
I've had too many close calls over the years.
 

rixtrix1

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Chandler, AZ (from west NE)
I bet that even minimum insulation will keep you from running that AC for so many hours during the summer. Is your electricity really cheap?
We live in a southeast Phoenix suburb. Our current south facing 2-car garage, with a metal roll-up door with 2" styrofoam installed in the panels , 240 sq ft has R-13 walls and R-30 ceiling. I cool/ heat it with a wall mounted 12k Window A/C unit with resistance heat in the west wall 7' off the ground. It's 111 degrees right now and the unit is running about every 3 hours for about 10 minutes with the temp set at 82. In winter, I set it to the lowest heat mode temp of 56 degrees and it runs about 3-4 times a day, if that. Everyone said it would cost a fortune to cool the garage, but I never noticed any difference in cost.

My 24x32x10 backyard shop gets final inspection this Friday. It has R-15 in all 4 walls( carriage doors for lift access ), i-3x3 window with curtain and an R-6 insulated mandoor. There's nothing in the ceiling yet but radiant barrier sheathing and eave/roof venting that's 19' above the floor. Until the sun goes down it consistantly stays 8-10 degrees below ambient temps up to 7' above the floor. i plan on installing a 24k mini-split soon and it will probably be left on at 86 degrees always during hot months and whatever the lowest setting is during the winter. Since retiring, I'll probably be spending some time out there every day and I bet the led lighting will use as much power as the HVAC. It's not cheap here, but I'm not expecting a big increase in our power bill. I'm probably saving more $$ by not driving to work any more!
 

rixtrix1

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Chandler, AZ (from west NE)
I still have a couple questions and things to buy. I have a 18,000 Pioneer Diamante Ultra going into a 600sf uninsulated garage (in Phoenix) and I am debating installing the condenser above where the air handler is being installed about 20ft on the side of my house.

I have the whip and disconnect panel purchased but I have not bought the conduit or wire from the panel to the disconnect box. Is it code to use Romex or should I be using THHN wiring? Metal conduit, outdoors in a dry climate?

Has anybody had issues with cutting the 16ft lines down to about 10 ft? I assume this is within the operational limits?

I am planning on using masonry screws to install the air handler and disconnect but should I use lag bolts into the block masonry garage instead for the condenser mount?

Its suppose to be 102 degrees this coming Monday and I am excited to test out the performance of the split. Thanks to all those who have posted and helped this long time lurker.
I ran 10-4 romex from my panel to the disconnect, diagonally across the ceiling, put a short ****** with bushing, on the back of the disconnect and ran the romex through, stripping the outer sheath and leaving enough wire to hook it all up. No biggy and it passed inspection. Did you get yours working yet as today would definitely be a good test? It's 112 right now in west Chandler!
 

PCustoms

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VT
If I follow the question correctly, you're asking if you can run Romex inside metal conduit (I'll venture a guess that we're talking about EMT?). No, you should not run Romex inside conduit. Use THHN. Also, even in a "dry" climate, I would suggest rigid, liquid-tight, or at least using compression fittings if you're going to use EMT outdoors.

Are you stating that the outdoor unit will be 20' off the ground? If so, be sure to consider serviceability at that height.
I know this was a little while ago, but NM-B (romex is one brand) IS allowed inside conduit. It is NOT allowed in wet/outdoor locations.

THWN is needed.

Also, I believe compression fittings are required for EMT outdoors.
 

racecougar

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I know this was a little while ago, but NM-B (romex is one brand) IS allowed inside conduit. It is NOT allowed in wet/outdoor locations.
Correct. It is allowed; it doesn't mean it's best suited. As we're dealing with outdoor wiring here, it should be off the table entirely.
 
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