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I'm thinking the ghost shield was a waste

Ron_J

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I built a garage, not a banquet hall. I plan on using it as a garage, and expect it to look like its been used. But the ghost shield was supposed to protect it for "most" stains. To this point, I have found it to protect against very little. I was working on the truck and had to use penetrating fluid and it marked the floor as if it was bare concrete. Actually, i think i had more luck getting it off the bare concrete in my old garage.

I think i would have been better off just goung with the sealer the concrete guy wanted to sell me.

These are before and after i pressure washed it. And after i tried to get it up with cat litter. Which typically works for me.
 

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Ron_J

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4500 and 8510.

It works on some stuff, but like i said, I'm find it doesn't on a lot more than i originally expected.

I've had oil, power steering fluid and other stuff that didnt.

Is yours a working garage? What have you had that you was surprised that didnt stain?
 

RPH

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Yes, I overhaul tractors and down. Two differences, I acid stained 4 colors. Figured a working garage will get stained by something sooner or later. Random pattern. I’m sure some have left a mark but you can’t tell. Things that I expected to stain haven’t. Product has exceeded my expectations.
Also I used 8505, it seems to be a pattern developing on the 8510. You’re not the first to report this and I wonder if it’s the newer formulation.
 

GRivera

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OP- my experience has been almost identical to yours. I used densifier and 8505 on 1 year old concrete floor in my pole barn. Easily stained with transmission fluid and won’t clean up with Pour n Restore. Ironically, the unsealed concrete in my attached garage has stains that are 10 years old which come up with the Pour n Restore. I feel I waisted my money. Mine is not a full time working garage - rather it’s for a hobby car. I am hoping to grind the pole barn concrete soon and do polyurea.
 

bmwpowere36m3

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Similar experience to OP in my father's garage... bought enough 4500 and 8510 to do his and mine. A couple weeks after applying, Dad informs me he has some oil "stains".

Sure enough, we tested a few spots with various oils, coolant and water. It was hit or miss, some areas the fluids sat overnight with only a very slight darkening and other areas within minutes looked like a dark "stain". Only conclusion I could draw was, highly polished and "dense" areas resisted stains and rougher areas with more aggregate exposed did not.

Full Disclosure, the both Ghostshield products were close to a year old at the time of application. Though, they were unopened and kept in our basement (controlled climate).

The price was the main attractant and my rational was it be resistant enough to be able to clean up within reasonable amount of time.

Anyway, I gave up on using Ghostshield on my garage and bit the bullet and ordered polyurea. Yeah, made a 180 and it'll cost a lost more, but the floor will have a nice uniform light color (look cleaner, brighter and easier to find dropped items) and will resist typical shop fluids. Dad convinced me, having a nice coating on the floor you won't be disappointed.
 
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Ron_J

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Was just about to place my order on 4500/8510 today... subbing to see how this pans out

Just be clear on what to expect. As I said, it does seem to work very well for oils and thicker fluids. What I've found to be problematic are the more fluid solvents. Also, oil soaked dirt seemed to stain a bit also. Even if it was cleaned up the same day.

I'm not really trying to bash the product, but I was expecting more from it. For the occasional oil change and some spills, I think it would be fine. Do a brake job and have a pile of dirt/rust soaked in PB Blaster you WILL have a stain.
 

Garage Flooring

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Grand Junction, CO
Similar experience to OP in my father's garage... bought enough 4500 and 8510 to do his and mine. A couple weeks after applying, Dad informs me he has some oil "stains".

Sure enough, we tested a few spots with various oils, coolant and water. It was hit or miss, some areas the fluids sat overnight with only a very slight darkening and other areas within minutes looked like a dark "stain". Only conclusion I could draw was, highly polished and "dense" areas resisted stains and rougher areas with more aggregate exposed did not.

Full Disclosure, the both Ghostshield products were close to a year old at the time of application. Though, they were unopened and kept in our basement (controlled climate).

The price was the main attractant and my rational was it be resistant enough to be able to clean up within reasonable amount of time.

Anyway, I gave up on using Ghostshield on my garage and bit the bullet and ordered polyurea. Yeah, made a 180 and it'll cost a lost more, but the floor will have a nice uniform light color (look cleaner, brighter and easier to find dropped items) and will resist typical shop fluids. Dad convinced me, having a nice coating on the floor you won't be disappointed.

I am not sure on the other projects but as you stated you were using an outdated product and the floor had been etched multiple times with substantial texture to it. Was not a good fit.



ALL

Properly installed over good substrate, 4500/8510 will repel oil and water for several days. That is its specific purpose. I am sure there are a lot of chemicals that will penetrate faster. After days, oil will punch through.

There are also two methods of install out there. Flood coat for power troweled only and two coat wet on wet. Important that you use the right system for your situation.

You also do not want a rough surface before application. You do not want to profile like you would for an epoxy,
 
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Ron_J

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I am not sure on the other projects but as you stated you were using an outdated product and the floor had been etched multiple times with substantial texture to it. Was not a good fit.



ALL

Properly installed over good substrate, 4500/8510 will repel oil and water for several days. That is its specific purpose. I am sure there are a lot of chemicals that will penetrate faster. After days, oil will punch through.

There are also two methods of install out there. Flood coat for power troweled only and two coat wet on wet. Important that you use the right system for your situation.

You also do not want a rough surface before application. You do not want to profile like you would for an epoxy,

I will be the first to admit that it does this well.

Guess I was just expecting too much from it.
 

Zmann

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Arizona
I am with you on the not impressed factor my floor is easy to clean with kitty litter and a mop I would not want to seal it if it made stains impossible to remove.
Now to calculate how much penetrating oil you need to stain the rest of the floor ;-)
 
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dbldmnd

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There are also two methods of install out there. Flood coat for power troweled only and two coat wet on wet. Important that you use the right system for your situation.

I'm in the middle of sealing my new slab that was put down on Sept 15 with the ghostshield 4500/8510 system. It is 4000 psi concrete, and was hand troweled, not power troweled. This past saturday I applied the 4500 by sprayer and microfiber mop.

So how should I apply the 8510? The revised instructions on the website state flood coat, but your comment above seems to state flood coat for power troweled only. What should I do, apply 2 coats? Put one coat down and when it is still wet apply another second coat? I've got 8 gallons of 8510, it would be nice to know how to apply it.
 

Garage Flooring

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I'm in the middle of sealing my new slab that was put down on Sept 15 with the ghostshield 4500/8510 system. It is 4000 psi concrete, and was hand troweled, not power troweled. This past saturday I applied the 4500 by sprayer and microfiber mop.

So how should I apply the 8510? The revised instructions on the website state flood coat, but your comment above seems to state flood coat for power troweled only. What should I do, apply 2 coats? Put one coat down and when it is still wet apply another second coat?

The flood coat application works well on smooth concrete such as concrete that is power troweled. It is not as effective on less smooth concrete. Without being there to see it, my guess is it is not smooth enough for a flood coat and a two coat would be better. That means you would need to wait until you had enough on hand
 

Garage Flooring

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I will be the first to admit that it does this well.

Guess I was just expecting too much from it.

I think one of the problems in this industry is there is such a vast selection of products and many have a specific niche. What works really well for one person is a horrible choice for another. I just hung up with a guy looking to use Polyurea and after we talked a bit I told him flat out not to.

The best advice I can give to someone looking to avoid the situation you are in is to clearly set out your needs, expectations, and surface conditions and get a recommendation. Be honest. People often understate or overstate what they need and it can be problematic
 

Basketcase

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Clearview, Ontario, Canada
Just be clear on what to expect. As I said, it does seem to work very well for oils and thicker fluids. What I've found to be problematic are the more fluid solvents. Also, oil soaked dirt seemed to stain a bit also. Even if it was cleaned up the same day.

I'm not really trying to bash the product, but I was expecting more from it. For the occasional oil change and some spills, I think it would be fine. Do a brake job and have a pile of dirt/rust soaked in PB Blaster you WILL have a stain.

I have a 69 Chevy truck that I just finished up to get on the road, but still have a lot more to do to get where I want it. I also have a 52 Chevy truck sitting outside waiting to get ripped apart for a full resto.

Penetrating lubes and PB blasters WILL BE USED haha.

Fluids and welding, grinding are what I need this floor to hold up to.
 

Garage Flooring

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I have a 69 Chevy truck that I just finished up to get on the road, but still have a lot more to do to get where I want it. I also have a 52 Chevy truck sitting outside waiting to get ripped apart for a full resto.

Penetrating lubes and PB blasters WILL BE USED haha.

Fluids and welding, grinding are what I need this floor to hold up to.

Where time and money is not an issue, I would almost always prefer a coat or two of a clear Polyurea BUT you have to be willing to protect the floor from welding. Polyurea is going to scratch where GS has nothing to scratch..... But Poly does not punch through.

8510 is an awesome product when used as designed. Sealing a floor against water and oil infiltration that will be cleaned up in a reasonable period of time. Vast majortiy of customers love it. Commercial stories that are amazing. At the end of the day it has its limits. Just like everything else
 

kngelv

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Detroit, MI
I think one of the problems in this industry is there is such a vast selection of products and many have a specific niche. What works really well for one person is a horrible choice for another. I just hung up with a guy looking to use Polyurea and after we talked a bit I told him flat out not to.

The best advice I can give to someone looking to avoid the situation you are in is to clearly set out your needs, expectations, and surface conditions and get a recommendation. Be honest. People often understate or overstate what they need and it can be problematic

I think the biggest problem is 90% of the products sold for garage floors over promise and under deliver.

James
 

aggie113

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Jul 22, 2015
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San Antonio, TX
So far I've seen the 8510 work on water and some other liquids. During the lift install some hydraulic fluid got on the floor around the lift and it did not bead up on the surface.
 
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