Impact driver - does it work?

[axl911]

I am thinking of buying an impact driver (the kind you whack on with a hammer) like this.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...5&group_ID=223&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Does it work on stuck on, rusted, frozen screws? Also, can I use it to remove a stuck or frozen nut too?

thanks,
anthony

 

[Cashed]

Yes, but where that tool is best for is Phillips screws that are frozen in place. Where you have an issue of the tool caming out of the fastener.

 

[toolchaser]

A handy tool for motorcycle work esp. vintage bikes. Strangely, I find the cheap import models work better than the higher priced units

 

[jjjrmx5]

I've had mine for decades.

Once car mfgrs started putting retaining screws on rotors and rotor hubs, it was a must-have.

Lots of uses.

 

[Stuart in MN]

A handy tool for motorcycle work esp. vintage bikes. Strangely, I find the cheap import models work better than the higher priced units

They're just about the only way to remove engine case screws on old bikes, I use mine all the time for that purpose.

 

[Hiball]

Yes, but where that tool is best for is Phillips screws that are frozen in place. Where you have an issue of the tool caming out of the fastener.

As long as the Bit isnt worn or the fastener those hand impacts do a great job of preventing "tool caming out of the fastener". That is there sole purpose essentially..

 

[Tatsuya]

I used one recently taking off the jaws off one of my dad's vises. They had slotted screws that were really mashed in there. With some PB Blaster it worked like a charm.

 

[pipsters]

Lisle makes one domestically and Sears sells it for $20 on sale. Not sure I would spend $230 on one but I have the Lisle version and it works great.

 

[Hiball]

Lisle makes one domestically and Sears sells it for $20 on sale. Not sure I would spend $230 on one but I have the Lisle version and it works great.

The Bits are where you spend your money.. Of course the average Joe doesnt need the full assortment but i would recommend buying a Good bit, (Especially in the Common sizes) that isnt gonna have to be warranted every other week.

 

[ZRX61]

I have a 30year old Taiwanese Talco model. End is mushroomed over from use. Gets used at least monthly. Works as well as the day I bought it, cost me about $6.00

 

[tatra]

get one in 1/2 drive with the bit adapters.........wonder if the cordless impact drivers would work as well for stubborn fasteners?...........

 

[SMKS]

I have one that I bought at O'Reilly Auto Parts around 10 years ago. It's made in Taiwan and works well.

But, if I were going to buy one now I'd get the USA made Craftsman. My local Sears also has USA made replacement bits for it.

 

[george4]

They're just about the only way to remove engine case screws on old bikes, I use mine all the time for that purpose.

That is exactly why I got one about 25 years ago.

 

[KenC]

Yep, they work good. But, truth be told mine hasn't been used since I got my DeWalt 18V impact driver. It's loosened every screw I've tried it on. But, requires good bits as it'll snap cheapy, non-impact bits like glass.

 

[Outlawmws]

get one in 1/2 drive with the bit adapters.........wonder if the cordless impact drivers would work as well for stubborn fasteners?...........

Not for Phillips or any drive design that can cam out, and the impact of the hammer does two things:

Forces the torque (For the OP: remember to be "twisting and pushing in" in the direction you are going) as it imparts a downwards shock to the fastener that is part of the "release" dynamics.

Gunsmiths will often rap on the end of a standard screwdriver with a small hammer, both going in and loosening gun screws. Same principal.

 

[Trey T]

I use HF impact driver. It works excellent and I don't even try to take out an old rusty screw w/o it.

It's like 5bucks for a set. If HF sell the bit set, I would stock up instead of having three sets.

 

[Trey T]

Yeah... I don't think tahts a good idea. The reason why you want manual impact driver because it gives a single blow and not strip the screws. Generally, you want to use these manual impact driver with WD-40 or PB Blaster.

I haven't seen the technology in pneumatic or electric impact yet where it lets you set the impact force independent to the rotation speed. So therefore, you can't replicate the method of using manual impact driver to using electric or pneumatic impact.

The reason why it works for you is because you maybe haven't come across screws that is very bad in shape or do not budge.

Yep, they work good. But, truth be told mine hasn't been used since I got my DeWalt 18V impact driver. It's loosened every screw I've tried it on. But, requires good bits as it'll snap cheapy, non-impact bits like glass.

 

[mrholeshot]

If you have to pull many door latches out you will be glad you own it. A impact wrench won't replace it

 

[VWandDodge]

The Bits are where you spend your money.. Of course the average Joe doesnt need the full assortment but i would recommend buying a Good bit, (Especially in the Common sizes) that isnt gonna have to be warranted every other week.

I broke a bit on a (somewhat) el Cheapo impact driver I bought and no one can tell me where I can find replacement bits.

 

[Recoil Rob]

I recently found a Snap On impact driver in some tools that came with a box I bought. It's a 3/8" drive but I think I only found 2 bits that look like they go with it. What's a good set of 3/8" drive bits at a reasonable price?

 

[Hiball]

I broke a bit on a (somewhat) el Cheapo impact driver I bought and no one can tell me where I can find replacement bits.

I soley use Snap on Bits, Always have even when i Used my Buffalo Hand impact. Even with the Proper fitting Bit they will eventually wear/break which is why i use the good stuff for Warranty support.

 

[SMKS]

I broke a bit on a (somewhat) el Cheapo impact driver I bought and no one can tell me where I can find replacement bits.

My local Sears has them with the impact drivers.

 

[VWandDodge]

Hmmm, I really don't have a desire to ever step foot in a Sears again. The feeling I get from going there is akin to ********** a $3 ******.

 

[Hiball]

I stole this picture from another member showing where "Only" a Hand impact will work. If you try and use cheap bits you will get NO where fast and a Electric/Air IMpact would only destroy the fastner face.

 

[DonkDonk]

The Snap-On version is $58, which is not too bad, but I don't think it is any better than the Craftsman or Lisle tool for less than 1/2 the cost. Some of the El Cheapo versions are not bad either, but I have used some that were brand new that were almost worthless. The real difference is the bits. The super cheap ones come with bits that are worthless and you will twist them first time out. I have not used the Craftsman bits, but I think it is worth it to pick up at least #1, #2, & #3 quality bits. Also the Apex insert bits work well with these tools.

 

[padronanniversary]

I stole this picture from another member showing where "Only" a Hand impact will work. If you try and use cheap bits you will get NO where fast and a Electric/Air IMpact would only destroy the fastner face.

Can you please explain this in further detail as to why a electric would not work ?

 

[VWandDodge]

Can you please explain this in further detail as to why a electric would not work ?

An electric impact is applying the torque while turning CCW and will strip out the screw head in a heartbeat. The hand-held units are applying the force "downward" or along the length of the fastener, something an electric impact doesn't. This allows the mechanic to hold the impact with just enough CCW pressure so when the bond breaks the fastener will turn. It also gives the mechanic a feel for how much CCW torque to apply before striking.

 

[Hiball]

Can you please explain this in further detail as to why a electric would not work ?

This | And because i was Dumb enough to try it Once before.
..... \/


Its Mainly the Torque + Fastner Contact that breaks them Loose. When you smack that hand impact it provides Downforce and Turning at the same time, You dont get that with a Electric Impact. Have you ever used a Hand Impact? Its amazing what they will do.. alot of people use sockets on the end of them, I soley use them with the apropriate Phillips, Standard and Allen bits.

An electric impact is applying the torque while turning CCW and will strip out the screw head in a heartbeat. The hand-held units are applying the force "downward" or along the length of the fastener, something an electric impact doesn't. This allows the mechanic to hold the impact with just enough CCW pressure so when the bond breaks the fastener will turn. It also gives the mechanic a feel for how much CCW torque to apply before striking.

 

[punkenduro]

i have a lisle and it works great. got it off the snappy truck, guess its a bit better than the snap on one and its cheaper.

 

[Hiball]

i have a lisle and it works great. got it off the snappy truck, guess its a bit better than the snap on one and its cheaper.

The Snap on Impact isnt anything special, Little easier to change direction verus some. The bits are where they shine...

 

[pipsters]

Also another area these shine is on rusted or corroded torx bolts.

Anyone familiar with the Volvo 5-cylinder thermostat torx bolts? Without one of these impact drivers you are taking a serious risk stripping out the torx bolts and having to drill them out.

 

[DrkMtnDew]

most of the time if i have to work with a brass bolt i go straight for the impact driver.

 

[earlthegoat2]

As has been said before the quality of the driver is directly related to the bits used. Snap On, Lisle, or a 4 dollar import will have not much disparity if top of the line bits are used.

 

[pipsters]

Anyone know if the "new" impact rated bits coming out for use in electric impact drill/drivers will fit in my craftsman/lisle impactor? I believe it says 3/8" shank bits.

 

[MTRD3]

Would you guys say you almost exclusively use these hand impact screwdrivers on screws? The reason I ask is because I'm looking to buy one and am looking at two that are really only separated by one difference: One has a drive which can be used with sockets as well as bits (via an included adapter) meanwhile the other only accepts bits. Links to each are below. Question is, does anyone ever use these on nuts or bolts? I can't really see that being the case, meaning I'm not sure I see the extra value in an adapter set driver which allows for use with sockets... correct me if I'm wrong.

http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000Y8FVUC/

vs.

http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B001NYZSTK/

 

[dalehsc]

I've had mine for decades.

Once car mfgrs started putting retaining screws on rotors and rotor hubs, it was a must-have.

Lots of uses.

It's probably where the most use mine gets,but there are other opportunities. Mine works great, my Dad bought it years ago and was passed down to me.

 

[Recoil Rob]

I used mine with some Craftsman "Damaged nut/bolt Removers", the kind with the spiral ridge that cuts into the nut. I first tried them with a ratchet but they wouldn't grip. I felt that the forward force of the hammer blow when using the hand impact driver might get them to cut into the nut and grip and it did work. Especially useful as I was on my back and striking upward.

 

[Need more space]

I bought a cheap-o year ago when I was in a jam, my intentions were to then buy a quality one. This cheap-o has saved me many headaches and always worked, never ending up need a more expensive brand.

 

[rshadd]

My vintage HK Porter Impak Driver still works like a champ. Bought it many years ago for working on motorcycles. It was handy for removing the flywheel retaining bolt.

 

[Tronyadorable]

They work like a champ.
Snappy or Grainger for bits.