Impact driver

[Indy125]

Hello!

I am getting ready to do my first rotor brake overhaul on my car. Watching lots of videos, and they all seem to be consistent with the use of an impact driver using a hammer to remove the philips screw on the drum. My question is, do I need this, if I already have a Milwaukee M18 hex impact driver? The impact driver they using seems more like a specialty tool. Comments or advice? Thanks so much!!

EDIT for using rotors, not drums

 

[kd3pc]

nothing beats the strategic torque this little wonder makes..

it works on motorcycle cases that nothing else will come close.

"Need"...maybe not, but it works. Well.

 

[FlushingDIYer]

I'd really prepare for the job:

Get some left-handed drill bits so you can drill them out easier when you come across ones that don't cooperate. I've never been able to remove phillips rotor screws with this thing.

 

[1982fxr]

I don't know but hand impacts are a thing of beauty...

 

[AngryBeaver]

Hand impacts are the go to thing for stubborn specialty bits. Such as Phillips, frozen allens, any star bit.

Impact drivers aren't good for getting out half rounded or stripped headed bolts/screws.

Cheap impact drivers ****. I've had a couple cheaper ones and they never worked like a quality sk or SO

 

[davethorik]

I have a KD Usa unit and it works wonders on the #2 JIS philips screws made of zinc plated oatmeal on my KLR. Craftsman sold the same one when it was USA, and I know a lot of other places branded the same model as well. Mine is 3/8 sq drive.

 

[Al Borland]

Pick up a better hand impact than the Harbor Freight one. Spend the money on a Klien or track down a USA Craftsman. The Cheapies don't last long.
They work better than an electric or air impact because the force of being struck helps hold the tool into/on the fastener.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Must be a foreign car. I have never seen the drums screwed to the hub on any American car.

Depending on the age you may need a brake drum puller. Hopefully you can rent one.

 

[WF103]

Hand impacts are the go to thing for stubborn specialty bits. Such as Phillips, frozen allens, any star bit.

Impact drivers aren't good for getting out half rounded or stripped headed bolts/screws.

Cheap impact drivers ****. I've had a couple cheaper ones and they never worked like a quality sk or SO

SK makes an impact driver? Could you link it, if you have one? Thanks!

 

[txvwnut]

Get the hand impact driver as it will do a far better job than a battery powered impact driver for removing the drum locking screws. The hammer type gives a twisting force with a verticle force as well the battery unit will only give you a twisting force which might try to turn the bit out of the screw.

I bought a $5 import one from a pawn shop and it lasted about 20 years then I replace it with a Matco one but am still using the original bits.

 

[4 Ever-Fish N]

I did a drum brake job on my 95 F150 a few months ago. I didn't have any phillips screws or anything difficult to remove. The primary specialty tool I used was the spring pliers.

You reminded me of why I bought mine 40 years ago. I had to rebuild my first motorcycle, a Honda 305 Scrambler. I didn't know there were "cheap" brands back then but probably got what I could afford which wasn't much. I saw it in the garage a few weeks ago. I will have to check the brand.

nothing beats the strategic torque this little wonder makes..

it works on motorcycle cases that nothing else will come close.

"Need"...maybe not, but it works. Well.

 

[Indy125]

Great thanks for the suggestions! Looks like I will be buying one of these to add to the collection, not that is a bad problem.

Sears still sells a Craftsman 1/2 impact that says its USA made, at $14.99 not sure if its going to be durable. However, on amazon I found a Lisle 3/8. Whats a good price range, SO set is $280+...

Thanks again!

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG/ref=pd_cp_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002NYDRG&pd_rd_r=ENXMEDT76WVXHGAF66G6&pd_rd_w=INwzI&pd_rd_wg=ErP32&psc=1&refRID=ENXMEDT76WVXHGAF66G6

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

I did a drum brake job on my 95 F150 a few months ago. I didn't have any phillips screws or anything difficult to remove. The primary specialty tool I used was the spring pliers.

You reminded me of why I bought mine 40 years ago. I had to rebuild my first motorcycle, a Honda 305 Scrambler. I didn't know there were "cheap" brands back then but probably got what I could afford which wasn't much. I saw it in the garage a few weeks ago. I will have to check the brand.

Must be a foreign car. I have never seen the drums screwed to the hub on any American car.

Depending on the age you may need a brake drum puller. Hopefully you can rent one.

Yes, your right, I meant rotors, not drums. I'm doing all four corners, drums in the back, rotors up front.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Are you sure it has a set screw. It's not common. A lot of times a large philips and a sharp smack of a heavy hammer will get them loose. If that doesn't work impact driver. If that doesn't work and we're replacing drums/rotors out comes the torch lol.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Must be a foreign car. I have never seen the drums screwed to the hub on any American car.

Depending on the age you may need a brake drum puller. Hopefully you can rent one.

Never used a drum brake puller. IMO all they are good for is braking stuff that doesn't need to break

Have you had the pleasure of doing the last generation focus drums?

 

[jumbojak]

Yes, you need it. For doing your current brake job and much, much more. They're one of the more brilliant tools I've ever used.

 

[jonesg]

Work on marine outboards can't be done without impact screwdrivers.
Never needed one for cars.

The drum retaining screw is only there to hold the drum in place on the assembly line during production.
If it stuck just drill the head off and leave the threaded part in place, no need to extract the whole thing because it no longer serves any purpose.

 

[ocloc24]

There is no substitute for a good hand impact driver. You may only use it once a month or less but you'll be damn glad you have it when you do. The Snap On is amazing I here, much less trouble to use, I have a matco that's pretty good. But I used the cheap harbor frieght for almost 2 years and it got the job done, but was a bit of a pain. Still saved my ****. If you can't afford a good one it'll certainly do. The bits that come with it don't hold up too great, but I ordered some replacement 5/16" hex bits from tekton for a few dollars and that got me by for quite a while.

Another cheaper option is the Lisle, can be had for around $30. You want to break it out before you strip all to hell, you learn that quickly. Cordless impact drivers on a truly stubborn fastener will strip it out in seconds. If you see it begin slipping at all just stop immediately and go grab your hand impact driver and 9 times out of ten it'll have it out in a few minutes. Heat is your friend in this case as well.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Chris_L]

a cordless even if an impact doesnt work as well for rusted screws. the hammer blow forces it deep into the fastener and turns it. unless its a torx a phillips just wants to cam out.

those things are truly beautiful for rusted phillips screws on older rotors. not many other uses for it. but it is a god send for that. you can also just drill the head off and throw it in the garbage and not put one back in.

 

[ChrisLS8]

I love using mine for Honda rotors, and also the injector caps on any Nissan, for some reason they decided to use Phillips head on those

 

[Gittgo]

Generally if I'm going to beat on a tool with a heavy hammer the hammer and the tool will be marked "Proto".

 

[visionguru]

Hello!

I am getting ready to do my first rotor brake overhaul on my car. Watching lots of videos, and they all seem to be consistent with the use of an impact driver using a hammer to remove the philips screw on the drum. My question is, do I need this, if I already have a Milwaukee M18 hex impact driver? The impact driver they using seems more like a specialty tool. Comments or advice? Thanks so much!!

EDIT for using rotors, not drums

Your M18 is not useful in this situation. Regular impact driver could strip the screw head, then you have to drill it out.

Hand impact driver works wonders for rotor screws. The striking force prevents the screw driver from slipping out and stripping the screw head. The little impact action looses the screw.

It's cheap, often less than $10. I bought one at AutoZone or Harbor Freight 15 years ago. It works every time.

 

[Bighead38]

Hand impact is the king for breaking stuff loose. Then the m18 impact driver to run them out. It's way to easy to strip bolts with the impact driver. Plus a lot of times it won't even get the bolt to break loose so why risk stripping it. The hand impact is a must have tool for jobs like Honda rotors that are held on with a screw. I can't imagine trying to get that screw out without the hand impact. It won't be a tool you use often but when you do you'll be very happy you have it especially if you are in the rust belt.

 

[matt01073]

I have a snap on one , use it dialy on mostly brake rotor screw but there are plenty of other uses seat belt torx bolts are one example its good for . A good quality bit set is as important as a good impact driver or you will be trying to pick broken bit parts out of the screw . It is by far the best way to remove rusted in screw type fasteners as an impact wrench is almost sure to strip the head on phillips screws but again good bits are a must , and it is one of the areas snap on excells

 

[gregpack]

I've just purchased a proto USA made from zoro. regular price is around $35

 

[1982fxr]

I got the. Raftsman usa one about 7 years ago for like $20. Held up great. Whoever the oem is probably makes them for many others too...

 

[bochnak]

Do yourself a favor and buy a used Vessel 2500 from ebay. It comes with JIS bits that you will need.

See ebay item # 182640412057 for reference. You can get them cheaper also.

Matt

 

[shop guy]

Manual impacts come in handy sometimes. I love when I come across situations where I get a chance to use it. Even if you come across a partially b!%ched screw head that a cordless impact will just spin and make it worse, this tool will get it out.

 

[cdsloop]

Previous posters mentioned the Craftsman, and that reminded me that I had surprise points waiting for me. I went to Sears online, and found the one you mentioned as well. It does say that it is still made in USA. I decided to order it and redeem my SYW points, and got the driver for a grand total of $4.06!

 

[1982fxr]

Previous posters mentioned the Craftsman, and that reminded me that I had surprise points waiting for me. I went to Sears online, and found the one you mentioned as well. It does say that it is still made in USA. I decided to order it and redeem my SYW points, and got the driver for a grand total of $4.06!

Great score. It may be western forge I can't remember...

 

[fsae0607]

Impact drivers will save the day! I have a Lisle one. That tool is worth its weight in gold.

 

[67King]

Well if you ever do brakes on an older Porsche, this is the most important tool to have.......

 

[Sugarfryz]

Never used a drum brake puller. IMO all they are good for is braking stuff that doesn't need to break

Have you had the pleasure of doing the last generation focus drums?

I hate these

 

[becker_atc]

Proto makes good one I feel I use it at work regularly on screws on explosion proof electrical fittings and enclosures


Sent via message in a bottle

 

[driftpin]

I have about 5 I've picked-up over the years. The one I find myself using the most is the first one I bought, and it's labeled "Hammer Driver No. 514629" and it's 1/2 inch drive, made in Japan. I bought it in 1971 to work on my 1967 Honda 305 Scrambler. That was my first bike, I paid $250 for it, rode it for a year, and sold it for $400, which really-helped me put a down-payment on a new 1972 Yamaha 360 Enduro I bought in MI. I still have the Yamaha, it's waiting its turn in the queue of bikes to work upon.

I keep a supply of new impact tips on hand for when I know it's gonna take every bit of torque the Shockmeister can provide.

Here's a shot of my oldest tools, I got the Wright set for Christmas probably about 1967, it's the 'tootsie roll'-handle ratchet, still working well. The impact driver is what I wrote-about (above). The Wright set was made for Monkey Ward, a "Powr-Kraft" socket set.

 

[toyotadriver]

Last time I helped a buddy with changing brakes and rotors on a Honda, I used mine to try to get the screws out. Didn't work. Heated it up with a torch and quenched it....the screws backed right out with no issues.

 

[WVBrady]

People say that they work better if you pre-load them in the direction you want to turn, maybe takes out the slack.

 

[Codejack]

This is one of those tools that I keep buying and losing before I get a chance to use it; I must have had 4 of these, but every time I went to use it, someone had wandered off with it.

I have the same problem with magnet rods and trays, mirrors, screwdrivers and women

 

[L.Cheapo]

Great thanks for the suggestions! Looks like I will be buying one of these to add to the collection, not that is a bad problem.

Sears still sells a Craftsman 1/2 impact that says its USA made, at $14.99 not sure if its going to be durable. However, on amazon I found a Lisle 3/8. Whats a good price range, SO set is $280+...

Thanks again!

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG/ref=pd_cp_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002NYDRG&pd_rd_r=ENXMEDT76WVXHGAF66G6&pd_rd_w=INwzI&pd_rd_wg=ErP32&psc=1&refRID=ENXMEDT76WVXHGAF66G6

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P





Yes, your right, I meant rotors, not drums. I'm doing all four corners, drums in the back, rotors up front.

I bought the Craftsman one in the 90s, primarily for Tecumseh Phillips head muffler bolts. It has held up, but it works "OK". It recently struggled with a rusted Torx head bolt, so I replaced it with the Snap On version, and the difference is very much noticeable. For $15, its worth a shot.

 

[MikeF2316]

There is no substitute for a good hand impact driver. You may only use it once a month or less but you'll be damn glad you have it when you do. The Snap On is amazing I here, much less trouble to use, I have a matco that's pretty good. But I used the cheap harbor frieght for almost 2 years and it got the job done, but was a bit of a pain. Still saved my ****. If you can't afford a good one it'll certainly do. The bits that come with it don't hold up too great, but I ordered some replacement 5/16" hex bits from tekton for a few dollars and that got me by for quite a while.

Another cheaper option is the Lisle, can be had for around $30. You want to break it out before you strip all to hell, you learn that quickly. Cordless impact drivers on a truly stubborn fastener will strip it out in seconds. If you see it begin slipping at all just stop immediately and go grab your hand impact driver and 9 times out of ten it'll have it out in a few minutes. Heat is your friend in this case as well.

100% agree with all this. I have the Lisle too.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I've had the tekon and lisle. Junk