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impact gun recommend

gar2191

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I have one of those small Porter cable pancake compressors. I works good for tin snips and
other easy stuff. I run it at 95 psi and have to wait for it to recharge.
What impact gun would you get for this for auto work??? Doesnt have to be great..
just work ok..
 
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Skin

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Get a new compressor first. Even a 20 gal is going to be a huge improvement otherwise you'd be wasting your time. If you dont want to get a new compressor then you'd be a candidate for a cordless impact.
 

Ericgst

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Since your compressor can't feed an impact, i'd look for a cordless impact. If you already have a modern cordless tool set, see if there is an impact for your system

I have two systems, the Dewalt 20v with the large 1/2 impact and the Milwaukee M12 with the 3/8 fuel impact. I use the M12 the most but use the Dewalt when I need more power. Rarely do I use my IR air impact anymore.
 

jrobb316

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Agree with the new compressor. You can CL a used one in the 20 gallon range for about a hundred dollars. After that buy an IR 2135TiMax/2235 and you'll be happy.
 

G1GRANDEUR

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at this point you are better off with cordless impact gun.

but when you get bigger compressor, IR is way to go.
 

hunterguy86

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I have a pancake compressor as well and have a kobalt 1/2 impact. I can break all 6 lugs loose on my Chevy pickup and then wait for it to build up pressure. Then I can zip them rest of the way off. Is it ideal, no. Does it work, yes, but only limited use. I would love to have a bigger compressor but it's out of the question until I get my new shop built.

I use my cordless impacts for most things but have used my air impact many times for tires, brakes and changing unit bearings.

Not the best, but it gets done what I need.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

CJM8515

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Cordless would be better. Those pancake compressors and even a 20 gal wont push enough CFM to work an impact gun good enought o remove anything other than lugnuts or smaller fasteners. When you go to use it for real work and something stuck on, might as well get the breaker bar and a cheater pipe.
 

jrobb316

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You are definitely limited with a 20 gal, but you're not dead in the water. I ran my 3/4" impact off a 20 gal to break loose crank bolts. Works just fine, you just need some recovery time. Where it is insufficient is running grinders. Those need a 60 or better gallon unless you want to stop every 20 seconds for a minute.
 

032484

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I purchased my old 2hp 30gal craftsman belt driven air compressor for $70 with an air hose included. Then I purchased a IR 231H for $60 all at craigslist, thats $130 total for a nice set up that will do pretty much anything you need it to on a vehicle. Not saying you can duplicate that but you can get near that all day long through craigslist.
 
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Mikerodrig27

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I have an older husky that has worked out in the field for me. I used it for a solid 4 months when I was starting out. It worked great no problem.
 

bcradio

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Cordless would be better. Those pancake compressors and even a 20 gal wont push enough CFM to work an impact gun good enought o remove anything other than lugnuts or smaller fasteners. When you go to use it for real work and something stuck on, might as well get the breaker bar and a cheater pipe.

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MrGiggles

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With a pancake compressor, go cordless. While you'll have enough air for a short burst, it won't be enough for doing anything over a period of time like removing lug nuts.

Even a 159.99 21 gallon compressor from HF will be a big improvement over the pancake. Get that or something similar before you get an air impact.

Once you have enough air, Aircat impacts are great for the price, and the IR 2135timax is probably one of the best on the market, and is easily rebuild-able if you ever manage to wear one out. HF Earthquake impacts are pretty good as well.
 
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WhataTool

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Impacts are pretty CFM hungry, then again I wouldn't use a pancake compressor to air dust a computer.
 

Loscaldazar

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Impacts are pretty CFM hungry, then again I wouldn't use a pancake compressor to air dust a computer.

CFM is almost irrelevant for impact guns unless you are sitting there for a long time hammering away on a stuck bolt. In which case, you probably should have a more powerful impact.

PSI, not CFM is what is important for intermittent use tools like impact guns.

CFM and PSI is what is important for continuous use tools like grinders.
 

hangfirew8

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CFM is almost irrelevant for impact guns unless you are sitting there for a long time hammering away on a stuck bolt. In which case, you probably should have a more powerful impact.

PSI, not CFM is what is important for intermittent use tools like impact guns.

CFM and PSI is what is important for continuous use tools like grinders.

CFM matters if the line is constricted. I haven't tried the PC pancake but I've experienced OEM quick connects that were so constricted impacts would refuse to run until replaced with a quality connect. What's more the Porter Cable pancakes come with 1/4" hose while all impact guns I know of require 3/8 hose with 1/4" NPT fittings. Not a big deal but if the OP decided to go air after all, a new hose would be needed.
 

CJM8515

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Maybe I am wrong, but friend bought a pancake and a 1/2 impact and tried to take off lugnuts..it didnt work. Same friend tried to do the same thing with a larger 20-25 gal kobalt upright compressor and still nothing. Maybe its the gun, maybe the lines or fittings. I know for a fact even 3/4 dead my old snap on 1/2 nicad can zip off almost anything I throw at it and the portability is awesome. The milwaukee 1/2 high torque I have is even better.

Of course consider the fact those compressors likely make 125psi or less tops..
 

Loscaldazar

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CFM matters if the line is constricted. I haven't tried the PC pancake but I've experienced OEM quick connects that were so constricted impacts would refuse to run until replaced with a quality connect. What's more the Porter Cable pancakes come with 1/4" hose while all impact guns I know of require 3/8 hose with 1/4" NPT fittings. Not a big deal but if the OP decided to go air after all, a new hose would be needed.

From what you are saying, it sounds like you aren't quite properly grasping the relation between CFM and power. This is a common misunderstanding. The CFM of the pump doesn't have that effect on the actual amount of air flowing through your hard lines and air hoses as you think. Compressor CFM is only the rate that the pump can put air into the tank, not the rate that the tank can put air into the your lines. In fact, when your compressor isn't running, the effective CFM rating of the compressor is 0 CFM. If CFM directly determined power (in all cases), then whenever your compressor isn't running, you would have no power at all with your air tools.

Even the most restrictive air fittings (1/4) flow at the rate of about 30 CFM, which is far more CFM than even the most air thirsty 1/2 drive impact needs (usually running CFM for these guys are around 24-28 CFM). The reason people then get better results with higher flow fittings is because more restrictive fittings lower the PSI of the air going to the gun. Less restrictive fittings (or a higher initial PSI) enable you to run the gun at full power. This is how it is possible to run a heavy duty 1/2 drive impact off a 20 gallon compressor for short bursts (and still achieve full power) and take off lug nuts from trucks, or heavy duty suspension bolts.

CFM, again, only comes into play when you are trying to use an air tool for a long period of time, as CFM ratings (on compressors) is better understood at the rate in which the compressor can recover/maintain a certain PSI than it is the rate at which air flows out of the compressor and to the tool.

Another way to say this is, that the CFM rating of your accessories (air hose, fittings, etc) do matter for the power of your impact (because of their effect on lowering PSI, which reduces the power the gun operates at), but the CFM rating of the compressor does not influence power unless you are using a continuous use tool (which would drain the tank below the desired working PSI, reducing power). I've run impacts of a 4 gallon pancake before. You can still get full power for brief uses, but you do have to wait for the tank to refill in between uses to get that full power.

PSI determines the power of the tool

CFM determines the compressors ability to maintain power for long duration, but it does not directly determine the power of the tool


I think I said that all right. It's a bit confusing at first, but you'll get it!

TO THE OP. Get a harbor freight EARTHQUAKE Pneumatic impact gun. 3/8 (300 ft-lbs) or 1/2 drive (700 ft-lbs) will have enough power for almost all tasks on a light unibody vehicle. Since you didn't mention any big requirements (other than it just kind has to work), I'd go for the smaller, lighter 3/8 drive model.

The pancake compressor (2 gallons is it?) will be enough probably for a few seconds of use (5 lug nuts or something?) though on any impact. A slightly larger tank or compressor would be a good idea too. You don't need to spend huge with this. I bought (for $50) a 28 gallon craftsman from the 90s. Works great for all of my impact wrenches (although it is LOUD).
 
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Finky198

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I have a 5gal rigid dual stack at house for basic stuff and with a 2135TiMax I have yet to have a lug nut give me trouble. I just have to wait for it to refill I also run it at 130 psi As stated above it should work fine it's just a little frustrating have to wait all the time
 
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popparoach

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When the snap on mg725s and Matcos IR guns fail we bring out the big dog, Cornwell cat4150.way more powerful than mg725.
 

hangfirew8

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I already get it. I was talking total system CFM delivered to the tool, not the CFM rating of the pump. Fittings and hoses do matter for that. Sorry for the confusion.
 

MDK22

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CFM = How long to bring your tank up to operating pressure.

Tank Size = Volume/Amount of air in reserve for use at the pressure of the tank.

Lines also act like a storage device. Whether hose or pipes. So longer, larger, or more lines will also act as a tank.

You need at least 90psi to operate any decent impact well.

Pressure and Volume/Amount work in a ratio. If you have 30 gals of air in a tank at 125psi and you have a regulator set for 90psi you will actually have more then 30gals of usable air at 90psi. Because air is compressible if you increase the pressure you can fit more air into a smaller space. So thus there is more air in a 30gal tank at 125psi then a 30gal tank at 90psi.

The reason high flow fittings make a difference is because you are increasing the flow or speed that the air can get to the tool. Its like trying to drink a soda through a coffee straw vs a regular straw. Since you have a regulator whether it be built into the tank or a 2nd one afterwards you will have that sustained pressure until you drop below the main source pressure. Also subsequently any restriction results in a loss of pressure on the other side of the restriction so it also subsequently drops pressure.

So if you have a 125psi tank and a 90psi wall regulator you will have 90psi till the tank and any hose or pipe that runs to the regulator drops below 90psi then you are stuck with whatever the source tank is now at till you let off the trigger or the compressor brings it back up.

The larger the tank size the better and the higher the psi of the compressor/storage tank the better only if you have a regulator installed after the tank. Otherwise you are going to drain your tank faster.

TBH if you plan on be a serious DIY or do stuff for a profession air tools are the way to go. They are cheaper, interchangeable between brands, more powerful, last a lot longer, and do not require batteries. If you are just doing brakes, oil changes, and a few small jobs battery power is where it is at. Just look up and understand battery storage and also understand if the battery/charger/tool dies you are more then likely stuck buying a whole new set of tools because they will have changed the battery mounting, discontinued the tool or the charger.
 

MDK22

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Oh as far as impact guns go:

Serious DIY/Professional
3/8" Snap-On MG325
1/2" Snap-On MG725

The reason why is you can feather them. Once you get a feel for them you can use the 3/8 to put screws through plastic into plastic nuts without stripping them. If you get an Ingersol Rand (IR) you have no where near that kind of control unless there is an adjustment that most people do not know about.

For a homeowner I would look at a rebranded IR or an Aircat if you are going air. For battery Milwaukee, IR, or Rigid(Fill out information and send it in to get extended warranty).

I personally own a corded Harbor Freight 1/2" impact and it is about half the power of my 3/8" Snap-On. I will never buy a battery powered tool if I can help it with the exception of flashlights. Even then I am currently looking into rechargeable batteries for my Streamlight Stylus Pro.
 

Mikerodrig27

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Yes they are about half the power. However, for the home owner working on a smaller vehicle they are appropriate. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if it would have worked on my 3/4 ton truck for a lot of things.

The one I used before, I used it for building boat dry storage racks in a large facility that housed 400+ boats up to 40' long. It worked for every one of those dry storage racks and then some... This was with me driving 1/2" to 3/4" sized fasteners through 4" wood beams. I've never had a fastener come loose. In fact it would sink the heads in the wood a little bit.

Are pheumatics more powerful? Yes definitely. I wouldn't go back to a corded unless the environment called for it. But I used impacts professionally.

It was a Dewalt one. And I'm sure everyone has a extension cord and an outlet.
 
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