Need to add a manual impact screwdriver to my tool collection to assist in removing the rotor screws from my VW. The screws are T30 heads. First question: What do I want in a driver: 3/8 or 1/2"? And for the T30 bit, am I correct in assuming I need impact rated 5/16 shank? Educate me!
Impact screwdriver and Torx bit
- Thread starter 70Mach1
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matt_i
Well-known member
You want an oxyacet torch and a jar of anti seize.
Whatever T30 you choose after that will work. Nothing can resist the blue wrench. Put the antiseize on lightly for the next go-round
My experience was with GM T27s and the heads started carving out under the blows from an old 1/4" hex impact.
Whatever T30 you choose after that will work. Nothing can resist the blue wrench. Put the antiseize on lightly for the next go-round
My experience was with GM T27s and the heads started carving out under the blows from an old 1/4" hex impact.
matt_i
Well-known member
Correct me if wrong but doesn't the torx "clock" the rotor relative to the lug studs? IOW if there was no torx head screw couldnt the studs get off center in the clearance holes in the rotor? Not sure why that's important other than equalizing deformation of the hub under the fastener loads.
The other thought is why invest in a torx screw when a much cheaper star washer would do the same thing?
Your way over thinking it. again those screws be they torx, or phillips serve zero real purpose other than during assembly. Ive put them back on and not used them on 100's of vehicles, made zero difference.
The ones I've already gotten off, I don't replace. One of those had to be drilled out. There are two left on one car, and all four on an Audi. I don't have an oxyacet torch, so an impact driver is what I'm going to use. Thanks for the replies. I'll go with a 3/8".
454ragtop
Well-known member
A lot of these are Loctited, why I don't know, it's not like they could go anywhere once the wheel is on. I find heating with a basic propane torch makes a big difference, still use an impact driver though.
They make putting the wheels on a lot easier if the vehicle has lug bolts not studs.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
For vehicles with lug studs, yes, they can be removed. Anything with lug bolts needs them, or lining up the wheel can be infuriating.
1/2 will hit harder all else equal, the lisle tools are identical outside drive size between the 3/8 and 1/2, I have both. I'll check the bit size for the supplied chuck at work this morning.
JBradley500
Well-known member
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You can get a used Snap-on from ebay for like 30 bucks and it will work better than basically anything else. This is one of the things that Snap-on does do better than the other guys in my opinion.
racinfarmer
Well-known member
My Craftsman and Lisle have worked just fine and I don't need to fall into the circle jerk...
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Both my lisle tools take 5/16. You can use standard drive tools as well, impact preferably.
JBradley500
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I don't care which name is on it. I have used Mac hand impacts a lot, I own a Craftsman USA, and I've used two Snap-on ones a lot (one of which I own) and the Snap-on just works best. I just want the guy to get the best product for his money.
It could be the quality of the bits that make the difference. I mean, there's not a lot of tech that goes into the mechanics of a hand impact driver.
I use a hand impact driver a lot, one of my most used hand tools. I have a C'man USA (same as the Lisle/other rebrands) and my Ko-Ken Attack driver knocks the snot out of it. It's a beast and the bits are the best I've used.
Don't,
Provided the rotor doesn't seize to the hub you'll find it very difficult to line up the holes in the rotor, the wheel and the threads in the hub if you ever need to change a wheel at the side of the road. KEEP them.
I usually use a hex impact with a T30 bit to remove them in work, the OEM screws come with a black oxide coating and i don't find they rust in place that often. The heads of them are quite soft however and easily damaged by a poor fitting bit.
You can buy stainless steel replacements very easily and cheaply.
I don't find a manual impact driver works that well on torx screws, they're great for phillips and pozi's however which cam out much easier.
Tightening torque on the rotor screws is 5nm for anyone interested, no anti-seize.
Um no. I changed thousands of vehicles with wheel studs like VW when I drove a flatbed. Never had an issue. But to each his own
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Until you compress the caliper to change the pads. What allowed you to change it was the pressure from the pads/caliper holding it steady.
Loose rotor flopping around, plus lug bolts, is very annoying.
Salmanslim
Member
I use this one (Ko-ken AG112H Attack Driver), even comes with a T30 bit...
Whats the difference between this and the silver one? An318a
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