Impact screwdriver

[Bad Ronald]

Who makes a good,reasonably priced impact screwdriver? After battling
the screws that hold the rotors on my Honda I have an excuse to buy a new tool!

 

[jumbojak]

I have one from NAPA that works very well. You could spend a lot more but I suspect that function would be similar, if not identical.

 

[Zewnten]

Are you asking for an electric one, my vote would be Milwaukee 12v. If you are asking for about the kind you hit with a hammer, then pretty much anyone's will work but make sure to get one that's a 3/8 drive and get some VIM tips for it.

 

[LB-1911]

Who makes a good,reasonably priced impact screwdriver? After battling
the screws that hold the rotors on my Honda I have an excuse to buy a new tool!

Proto or Lisle have held up - Tekton offers one

Previous thread w/ a few more mentioned.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383067

 

[chrisnazzy]

I upgraded a few years back to the Sunex 9828. It works the same as the normal kind and for less than $30 at most online retailers, why not?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[dusterdude]

I have a lisle,works real good

Sent from my R1 HD using Tapatalk

 

[4xdog]

I really like my Vessel Megadora Impacta JIS/DIN crosshead impact screwdrivers. They’re simple and have worked perfectly every time I’ve used them. If the things that are stuck are Phillips/JIS, these could be a good choice.

 

[Tonyuk]

Proto sell a kit with a 3/8 driver, adaptors and bits for around £40 shipped here. It's the best value for money I could find and it's been working great for me. I was also given an older snap on one not long after getting the proto but I still prefer the proto over it.

Do you have an air hammer? If so there's an attachment you can buy that goes in and fits screw bits on the other end, it's meant to be very effective.

Remember to use a decent sized hammer with whatever driver you choose.

 

[dogdog]

Craftsman one work great.... one thing I learn, make sure you used a proper bit... I had to drill out the one on the CRV and re-tap... who knew that M6 freaking screw needs a #3 instead of a #2 ...........

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

 

[The Cobbler]

I have a no-name made in Taiwan from the early 80's and has never let me down, other than needing to replace bits. mind you, it's not used more than 2 0r 3 times per year on average

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

main problem with impact screwdriver is the bits, buy quality bits.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

main problem with impact screwdriver is the bits, buy quality bits.

I prefer zypher, supposed OEM for the snap-on "gold" Heavy-Duty removal bit. My lisle impact driver has done me well, it's been 5-6 years.

 

[txvwnut]

I used an import brand one for years till I finally wore it out, then I bought a Matco.

 

[JBradley500]

I don’t normally say there’s only one good option, but I’ve tried (and own) many of these hand impacts, and the Snap-on is the best. Buy a used one for $30 and it will work when the others will struggle.

 

[B_Bimmer]

I have lisle, proto, mac, several of the Taiwan ones from the '80's in the blue tin box, craftsman, and snap on. The snap on is most effective. I love the vessel impacta drivers but have broken several with regular use, something in the handle gives where it no longer rotates.

 

[Eric29]

I have one by vessel which didn’t work in taking out the screws holding my Honda rotors in. The one that attaches to my air hammer, and I think you are referring to that sort of attachment, took the screws out in about five seconds.

Proto sell a kit with a 3/8 driver, adaptors and bits for around £40 shipped here. It's the best value for money I could find and it's been working great for me. I was also given an older snap on one not long after getting the proto but I still prefer the proto over it.

Do you have an air hammer? If so there's an attachment you can buy that goes in and fits screw bits on the other end, it's meant to be very effective.

Remember to use a decent sized hammer with whatever driver you choose.

 

[B_Bimmer]

I don't have the air hammer one... Sounds interesting.

 

[plinker]

I've got an older Craftsman one, works well enough.

I have an air hammer bit with a 3/8 drive end, seems to work ok but I have not used it that much. For rotor screws the hand impact driver is faster/quieter for me.

 

[M6erfan]

Shake & Break

 

[2manytools]

Craftsman one work great.... one thing I learn, make sure you used a proper bit... I had to drill out the one on the CRV and re-tap... who knew that M6 freaking screw needs a #3 instead of a #2 ...........

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

That has very limited availability, only if you local store still has it can you get it. I own it, and is fine for sockets & the bits it comes with, but the adapter is not a standard 1/4" hex, probably a 5/16", so replacements/other fastener heads won't be fun to come by.


If you just need a screwdriver, there is a Craftsman set made by Vessel, made in Japan. Very nice drivers. You get a slotted one, which is unavailable by itself anywhere else, and standard +2. $19.99 is about the lowest they get (current price).

 

[The Cobbler]

..... probably a 5/16", so replacements/other fastener heads won't be fun to come by.


......

5/16 impact screwdriver bits are easily had.

 

[D-Vice]

Depends on what you find reasonable. I find under 70.00 for a good impact driver reasonable. I have a koken attack driver. Which I later changed out the koken bits with vessel bits. It has seen many honda rotors and has never failed while I was working at the honda dealer.

Stay away from the HF unless they improved them in the past few years. Had one of those for a bit, lasted for only few jobs.

 

[Bad Ronald]

Thanks to all for the help!

 

[Mr_B]

Proto nice for about 30bucks, have a toptul one too and that works nice .

 

[ex-x-fire]

The rotor screws come out easy if you heat the head for 5 seconds. I rarely use an impact screw driver anymore.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Craftsman one work great.... one thing I learn, make sure you used a proper bit... I had to drill out the one on the CRV and re-tap... who knew that M6 freaking screw needs a #3 instead of a #2 ...........

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

I would not re-tap a rotor screw. It is a nuisance to begin with. Serves no purpose after the car leaves the assembly line.

 

[Tonyuk]

I would not re-tap a rotor screw. It is a nuisance to begin with. Serves no purpose after the car leaves the assembly line.

You'll regret not putting the screw back in if you're car uses wheel bolts instead of studs.

Cars with studs are less of an issue,

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

You'll regret not putting the screw back in if you're car uses wheel bolts instead of studs.

Cars with studs are less of an issue,

Why? Please explain what purpose they serve after the car leaves the assembly line? Never had any issues with any Mercedes I ever owned. They all used bolts.

 

[Tonyuk]

Why? Please explain what purpose they serve after the car leaves the assembly line? Never had any issues with any Mercedes I ever owned. They all used bolts.

They serve no purpose when the wheel is bolted on,

If you need to change a wheel at the side of the road and have lost the plastic alignment tool (or its broke) you'll be fighting to align the openings in the wheel, the brake rotor and the hub. Doing all this in the dark when its raining isn't fun. The screw holds the rotor in the correct alignment.

The screws cost nothing for a large pack of them, i'd always recommend replacing them.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

OK we will disagree on that. I have never had any issues without a rotor screw in any car I have ever owned.

Its not the cost of the screw, its the nuisance of rusted and seized screws that end up changing rotors a pain in the ****.

Have a good day!

 

[rlitman]

OK we will disagree on that. I have never had any issues without a rotor screw in any car I have ever owned.

Its not the cost of the screw, its the nuisance of rusted and seized screws that end up changing rotors a pain in the ****.

Have a good day!

Have you ever had a car with lug BOLTS, and not lug NUTS?
I have not, so I always remove those screws, because the studs are sufficient to keep the rotor in place. But if you have an Audi for example, there are no studs to align the rotor.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Have you ever had a car with lug BOLTS, and not lug NUTS?
I have not, so I always remove those screws, because the studs are sufficient to keep the rotor in place. But if you have an Audi for example, there are no studs to align the rotor.

Read post 29 above. Thanks.

 

[Steve_P]

Depends on what you find reasonable. I find under 70.00 for a good impact driver reasonable. I have a koken attack driver. Which I later changed out the koken bits with vessel bits. It has seen many honda rotors and has never failed while I was working at the honda dealer.

Stay away from the HF unless they improved them in the past few years. Had one of those for a bit, lasted for only few jobs.

Do you have to reset the forward / reverse switch on the Koken after each time you strike it? I have a Lisle and having to reset the switch after each strike is annoying. I assume this is how the Lisles work as it's done this since new. I have an old beat up Taiwan one that you do not need to reset and was disappointed that the Lisle wasnt like this.

 

[rlitman]

I think that depends on how hard you hit it. With mine, I generally don't have to reset it, but if I hit it hard enough and it bounces hard enough, I might have to.

 

[Steve_P]

Thanks!

 

[Sal Bandini]

My preferred method to remove Honda rotor screws is to round off the fastener, swear and find the drill and bits. Then proceed to break a bit as I drill it out in haste. Eventually I get the rotor free.

Works every time.

 

[MoonRise]

Lisle. About $30 IIRC. Works when I've needed it to.

It replaced a HF one that worked until it didn't. I took it partially apart, didn't see anything really worn out or broken, lubed it well and put it back together. It sort of worked until it didn't. Again. That led to the Lisle.

 

[Roobaix]

I picked up the Proto kit for those rotor screws on my Honda, no complaints.

 

[Vt_k9]

I bought a Snapon, but I think many decent brands would work well for limited use. I made sure to buy the Snapon bits as I think they last longer and have a good support if/when they get damaged.

 

[Dimitriy]

I've had good luck with my Proto impact driver, have used it on multiple brake jobs and a number of machinist vise restorations.

https://www.zoro.com/proto-impact-d...QYAiABEgKn-PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#specifications