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Impact Socket Refinish

littleponderosa

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Sep 27, 2014
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864
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MONTANA
I have some old impact sockets that I either bought at a sale or the pawn shops. A few of this and a few of that - proto, snap on, craftsman usa's, williams, etc. Most had a little surface rust, a few slightly pitted. Not that it matters, but 3/8", 1/2" and a few 3/4" drive. Most of these were purchased over 15 years ago.
Have decided to clean these up and actually have started on a few. Started with a scotch-brite pad and it has cleaned up nearly everything that was an eyesore.
Did I screw up one more time by cleaning, or is there a paint/method you fellas can recommend that can take the abuse an impact socket gets?
Degreasing will be an easy chore, but what to do when I'm at bare metal?
All the above mentioned sockets are size stamped, so no worries about missing the sizes for indentification.

Any advice is most appreciated.
Bill
 
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pauls_workshop

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Mar 7, 2013
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Indiana, USA - Underappreciated Place to Live!

lilcraigford

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Oct 19, 2014
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348
Location
Portland, ME
Would powder coating not also scrape off rather easily? - Paul

Quality powder coating leaves a very durable finish, but (as with everything) good preparation is key. Parts are usually media blasted (among other procedures) beforehand. Another thing to consider would be the thickness of the finish; you might loose fine details (such as stampings) with a powder coated finish.
 

senlow

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Apr 26, 2008
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Wheat Ridge, Colorado
I have heard from some people that the bluing comes off rather easy, why not buy a small powder coating kit and when your wife leaves the house to go shopping stick them in the oven and be done with it.

The cold bluing kits are not much good. It is my understanding that the cold bluing kits are just an electroless copper flash that oxidizes on contact with air. It does turn the part black, but the color is often uneven and the coating wears off easily. The commercial black oxide done at plating shops works great, but most platers have a minimum lot charge ($60 - $100 minimum in my area). A good home shop solution is PILKINGTON CLASSIC AMERICAN RUST BLUE. This is an old time slow rust blue. It is kind of a slow process. But it looks good, wears well, is simple, and requires minimal investment in supplies. I have used this process on numerous tools and a couple of firearms. Pilkingtons is available from Brownell's (a gunsmith supplier).

I have powder coated some tools years ago when I worked at a powdercoating shop. It's better than most liquid paint. However, I do not recommend it for most tool applications. It is not a tough as black oxide, and it has a substantial build thickness which can cause issues. On the other hand, it works great on tool boxes. The boxes that I coated about 30 years ago are still in great condition.
 

Fluxion

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Apr 9, 2013
Messages
171
Location
Topeka. Kansas
I have used Shooters solutions parkerizing quite a bit and it really works great. It is a nice dark charcoal almost black. It works great on tools, it really needs a sandblasted surface to look even though.
 
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mikebaker1129

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Oct 16, 2014
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1,576
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Huffman,TX
I have used Shooters solutions parkerizing quite a bit and it really works great. It is a nice dark charcoal almost black. It works great on tools, it really needs a sandblasted surface to look even though.

I have used this ^ and brownells manganese phosphate parkerizing solution on tools . 80-100 grit aluminum oxide blasted at 80psi.
Workes best on impact sockets , I have also done son pipe wrench parts and lots of other small tools.
Shooters solutions is quite expensive for the amount that you get for the $.
 

Fedwrench

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Dec 9, 2007
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14,958
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Valley of the sun
I think instead of going sand crazy on them, I would soak them in Evaporust. It leaves a nice dull grey finish that a little WD40 can protect until they got a nice coat of grease/oil on them from use. :dunno:

Impact swivel sockets lead a violent life unless they aren't used and gather dust. I wouldn't mess with bluing/Parkerizing/or powder coating. :wtf:

Worn tools are patina like callouses on a mechanic's hands.
 
OP
L

littleponderosa

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Sep 27, 2014
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864
Location
MONTANA
After reviewing the choices, ease of use and possible hazards I've decided to go with the Oxpho-Blue and will have some on order Monday. Brownells is a good outfit to do business with.
Thanks to all who provided assistance.
Major "duh" moment when I read the 1st reply.
Bill
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
If you have a bunch of them to finish, I would contact a local coating shop and see what a small batch run in their black oxide tank would cost. I perform hot dip bluing on a pretty regular basis and it is by far much more durable over cold blue options. BUT it is dangerous and a pain to get setup initially. Oxpho is the best cold blue IMHO, I keep a small bottle on hand for screws and such.
 
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ishiboo

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Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
I have a junk HF set in the barn I use on the tractor/etc. which were pretty rusted, ran them through the wire wheel on the grinder and sprayed them with WD-40 and wiped... look a lot better now and I don't get rust on my hands when I touch them.
 
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