Impact Sockets vs Chrome Vanadium for General Use?

[DIY_Guy79]

So, I found out today that I do not have a 1/2" drive metric socket set. Could have sworn I did.

Anyways, I also dont have any impact sockets and had been planning on buying a set. Kind of need both right now, but dont really want to shell out the cash for both. So, Im just curious what the drawback would be if I just bought a set of short well metric impact sockets to use for both general wrenching & impact for now?

 

[oldwino]

You will be fine with the impact sockets 99% of the time. Only problem is that rare clearance problem due to the impact being thicker. Lots of guys here use impacts exclusively

 

[Mr_B]

cr-v is good material for impacts, way the impact socket formed and treated makes the real differences over base alloy of cr-v or cr-mo .
If you tight on funds getting impacts seems wise way go, just be sure full shouldered as will make them more usable in access scenario.
plenty available and prices work out as cheap as 2-3 bucks a socket .

 

[2ndGearRubber]

IMO 1/2 drive chrome is mainly a "pro use only" tool. The average DIY guy who swaps an occasional engine is unlikely to be hurt be the added heft of the impact sockets. His tool budget has realistic limitations, and would likely better be served by using the "1/2 drive chrome" money for other things. Worst case, you need a 1/2 drive chrome for head bolts or whatever; go and buy that single socket. 1/2 drive chrome 12 point is the most likely to be found open stock 1/2 drive stuff anyways.


I admit I have 12/6 point, 1/2 drive, deep and shallow, 10-32mm and then intermittent bigger stuff. When I need them (for my job) they're fantastic. But most of the time I don't; and even if I am using 1/2 drive hand tools, I'm more likely to grab the impacts on my cart. YMMV.

 

[iagsxr]

You'll use a deep impact set more than the rest combined.

 

[DIY_Guy79]

Thanks for the responses guys. I figured it would be something along the lines of the thickness of the socket wall.

I'm leaning toward the short well over the deep well as I'm currently in the process of replacing my timing belt on a 1999 toyota solara with the v6. I would have been fine with just my 3/8" metrics but I ran into a few 14mm bolts that were almost definitely torqued down with an impact. I'm afraid its going to break my 3/8" stuff as they're not wanting to budge even with a cheater bar. So really need my 1/2" breaker bar or an impact to do it right. Anyways, the job itself has a lot of tight areas and I figure I'd be better off with a short socket set for this job. My luck, I'd buy a deep set and find I need a short 1/2" drive lol.

I'm leaning toward the Pittsburgh Pro short set, item #67902. It looks like a really nice set and has great reviews.

View media item 93013

 

[BarryWells]

grab a set of these. Best of both worlds. Not big money either
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKMF8E/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Yarpo]

I'm leaning toward the Pittsburgh Pro short set, item #67902. It looks like a really nice set and has great reviews.

View media item 93013

As others have stated, the deep probably seemore use for most people but if you have a specific case for shallow, certainly go for it. I have those same Pittsburgh pro shallows at work without complaint. Almost unbeatable for the price

 

[bczygan]

Thanks for the responses guys. I figured it would be something along the lines of the thickness of the socket wall.

I'm leaning toward the short well over the deep well as I'm currently in the process of replacing my timing belt on a 1999 toyota solara with the v6. I would have been fine with just my 3/8" metrics but I ran into a few 14mm bolts that were almost definitely torqued down with an impact. I'm afraid its going to break my 3/8" stuff as they're not wanting to budge even with a cheater bar. So really need my 1/2" breaker bar or an impact to do it right. Anyways, the job itself has a lot of tight areas and I figure I'd be better off with a short socket set for this job. My luck, I'd buy a deep set and find I need a short 1/2" drive lol.

I'm leaning toward the Pittsburgh Pro short set, item #67902. It looks like a really nice set and has great reviews.

View media item 93013

Yes! Get that for $20 plus tax, after the 20% coupon.

And also the 10 piece deep set for $26 plus tax, after the 20% coupon.

Bill

 

[619DioFan]

I have a number of sets of HF impact sockets. never had any probs with them. with the ability to use the coupons with them you should get both deep and shallow.

 

[visionguru]

....but I ran into a few 14mm bolts that were almost definitely torqued down with an impact. I'm afraid its going to break my 3/8" stuff as they're not wanting to budge even with a cheater bar......

Be careful! 14mm head is probably a m8 bolt. Big torque can break it easily.

Timing component bolts may have thread locker, which may need heat to soften them up. While I have no experience doing timing belts, I certainly know what a nightmare it can be if you break a bolt.

 

[Mr_B]

If go HF Pitts Pro , be sure get the taiwan made sets ...
They good design but bit soft and have no stamped markings.
I would look on ebay before commiting as plenty available taiwan made in crv or crmo if look
As for chromes a set of shallows can be had for around 15 bucks so not going bankrupt most people and more than good enough for light diy .
Wouldn't even contemplate wasting money on sunex impact sockets .

 

[DIY_Guy79]

Be careful! 14mm head is probably a m8 bolt. Big torque can break it easily.

Timing component bolts may have thread locker, which may need heat to soften them up. While I have no experience doing timing belts, I certainly know what a nightmare it can be if you break a bolt.

The bolts I'm referring to are actually right on top and easy to get to. They're holding the top motor mount/stabilizer. Any useful amount of heat would be out of the question due to the large rubber bushing as well as numerous hoses, wires, and not to mention the inner fender and plastic timing cover just underneath it.. So lets hope some dodo didnt do that. I dont own a 3/8 breaker bar and was trying to get it with a 3/8 ratchet with a standard handle with a cheater bar on it. I was scared to torque on it too much as I didnt want to break the ratchet. My only other option was my cordless 3/8 ratchet, which is not a breaker bar and way too expensive to use as one lol. I have a nice 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" drive impact just didnt have the 1/2 metric sockets to go with them. Gonna go pick up the sockets tomorrow and get back to work on it. Wish me luck on not breaking them, that'd make for a really bad day.

 

[Tallpilot]

Impact sockets come in 2 varieties... CR-MO (Chromium molybdenum) and CR-V (Chromium-vanadium). Just depends on who you buy them from. Technically speaking, CR-MO is better for impact use because it's "softer" and will better absorb the impact. CR-V is "harder" and is typically used for chrome sockets.

The debates between chrome vs. impact and CR-MO vs. CR-V, are numerous so I won't beat that dead horse.

That having been said...

For 1/2" drive, I rarely use my 1/2" shallow impact sockets and I even more rarely use my 1/2" chrome sockets. Generally when I reach for a 1/2" socket, it's for use on an impact and for 1 of 2 things... The first being lug nuts and the second being suspension bolts. Yes, I own chrome and impact, deep and shallow, 6-points and 12-points. But I like tools and I "turned wrenches" for a living.

If you are going to buy a single set of 1/2", my suggestion is pick up the CR-MO Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" deep socket set at Harbor Freight. That will cover most anything you'll need. Use them on an impact or a ratchet. The only time you might run into a problem is tight spaces.

The only 1/2" Snap On I own are 17mm, 19mm, 21mm and 22mm for lug nuts. Those were the only 1/2" sockets I was pounding on all day every day. For as much as I use/used the other 1/2" sockets, I did not justify the price for a more expensive set.

Hope that helps... It really comes down to your budget, what task you need them for and the frequency of use.

As Mr. B continually and correctly points out US made Cr-Mo impact sockets are purposely not hardened anywhere near the alloy’s potential, ostensibly for liability reasons. Asian Cr-Mo tends to be slightly harder.

However these characteristics make them absolutely garbage for hand torque applications. Drive ends that mushroom after 50-100 uses on an impact are going to mushroom after 1 use on a breaker bar being stood on to tighten a 150+ ft/lb axle nut.

We give some **** advice here. If you are a DIY with no intention of buying an impact get chrome, they work better and last longer with hand tools. If you can afford and choose to buy an impact you can also afford 2 sets of sockets.

 

[Tallpilot]

The bolts I'm referring to are actually right on top and easy to get to. They're holding the top motor mount/stabilizer. Any useful amount of heat would be out of the question due to the large rubber bushing as well as numerous hoses, wires, and not to mention the inner fender and plastic timing cover just underneath it.. So lets hope some dodo didnt do that. I dont own a 3/8 breaker bar and was trying to get it with a 3/8 ratchet with a standard handle with a cheater bar on it. I was scared to torque on it too much as I didnt want to break the ratchet. My only other option was my cordless 3/8 ratchet, which is not a breaker bar and way too expensive to use as one lol. I have a nice 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" drive impact just didnt have the 1/2 metric sockets to go with them. Gonna go pick up the sockets tomorrow and get back to work on it. Wish me luck on not breaking them, that'd make for a really bad day.

Luck.

Feel free to buy more sockets as you find some extra cash. Until then, may I suggest this? It seems like it would solve your current problem.

https://www.tekton.com/breaker-bars?quantity=1&drive-size=3-8-in&length=18-in

 

[2ndGearRubber]

The bolts I'm referring to are actually right on top and easy to get to. They're holding the top motor mount/stabilizer. Any useful amount of heat would be out of the question due to the large rubber bushing as well as numerous hoses, wires, and not to mention the inner fender and plastic timing cover just underneath it.. So lets hope some dodo didnt do that. I dont own a 3/8 breaker bar and was trying to get it with a 3/8 ratchet with a standard handle with a cheater bar on it. I was scared to torque on it too much as I didnt want to break the ratchet. My only other option was my cordless 3/8 ratchet, which is not a breaker bar and way too expensive to use as one lol. I have a nice 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" drive impact just didnt have the 1/2 metric sockets to go with them. Gonna go pick up the sockets tomorrow and get back to work on it. Wish me luck on not breaking them, that'd make for a really bad day.

They'll pop free fine with a proper 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar. It's not that they were impacted in, it's that they're M10 or larger bolts that have never been removed in a decade or more. I do plenty of "virgin" timing belt jobs, everything done by the factory, first interval for service. Guess what, after 10/15/20 years, **** is stuck.

Pull the motor mount and bracket all out, use a jack with a block of wood on the oil pan, do all the top stuff, then all the bottom, then hold it somewhere inbetween for doing the belt. The rear cam will be the one that wants to rotate. DO NOT rotate it with your bare hand, if the cam rolls over you can lose a finger - I almost lost the tip of mine on my first 3.3L. I would advise changing the waterpump and all timing components on an engine of that era. Follow the timing instructions, it's pretty easy to time. Grab some brake clean for cleaning the timing covers of dust, and around the timing marks to increase visibility.




FWIW few if any M8x1.25 fasteners on that car will be 14mm, toyota of that era preferred 12 for that size. Yes, one can find 14mm on m8x1 caliper bolts.



EDIT: By "proper" length, I meant 18 inches plus. A standard handle 3/8 isn't going to touch those. IMO just get the 24 inch HF breaker bar and pop 'em free with minimal effort.

 

[ChevyEFI]

I have chrome Stanley SAE short sockets I bought at Wally when I needed one for a specific 12pt. flywheel bolt. Then I converted the 5/8 to a plug socket too. I have the HF impact set from 15yrs ago in the steel box; needed for chassis work. It has fewer skips than the HF posted above. I have metric axle nut sockets (needed one of them for a rebuild which had a 3x mm solenoid, not an axle nut. bought at HF. And I have some randoms. And don't need for much.

Just assess your need based on the current job and go pick up a cheap set. You probably won't need impacts since you're probably doing things DIY-slow, like I do most of the time. You probably don't need much realistically because your 3/8" set covers most. And those HF sets appeal to have skips that favor the Asian fastener head sizes, so they'd probably cover needs this time around.

When you actually have a tool that gets used up, worn out, or broken from use, then worry about spending more time shopping than working. Until then, get what you need, when you need it. Just like the front of a Haynes auto repair manual talks about.

 

[CR888]

Those Pittsburgh sockets looks well designed, someone recommended Sunnex which I clicked on the link to find god awful cost cutting designed sockets with no pro features. I'd buy those Pittsburgh's if the price was good & they were Taiwan CR-V. But definitely plan on having BOTH chrome & impact you can buy quality complete sets for the price of a few tool truck singles.

 

[RedneckWelder]

Chrome moly impacts (wouldn’t waste my time with CrV impacts) are a great choice for sockets for both hand and power tool use. My heaviest used set is a metric 3/8 impact set

 

[Mr_B]

Chrome moly impacts (wouldn’t waste my time with CrV impacts) are a great choice for sockets for both hand and power tool use. My heaviest used set is a metric 3/8 impact set

All I use for impacts is crv, lasting way better in my shop from using both of good brands (including truck brands)
Decent step shouldered short and long impacts be fairly usable for 1/2" size jobs but you always find 1 or 2 fixing scenarios in a recess or casting rib or bracket/weld that stops a thicker wall socket from being usable .

 

[Tul]

Those Pittsburgh sockets looks well designed, someone recommended Sunnex which I clicked on the link to find god awful cost cutting designed sockets with no pro features. I'd buy those Pittsburgh's if the price was good & they were Taiwan CR-V. But definitely plan on having BOTH chrome & impact you can buy quality complete sets for the price of a few tool truck singles.

What were the cost-cutting designs on the Sunnex?

Thank you

 

[M6erfan]

Those Pittsburgh sockets looks well designed, someone recommended Sunnex which I clicked on the link to find god awful cost cutting designed sockets with no pro features. I'd buy those Pittsburgh's if the price was good & they were Taiwan CR-V. But definitely plan on having BOTH chrome & impact you can buy quality complete sets for the price of a few tool truck singles.

I bought the Sunex 2646 metric set about 4 years ago when they were on sale at a really good price. I wasn't thrilled with the design but I chose that set anyway. here's why...

A I'm not a pro using them every day. I work on friends and family vehicles and restore motorcycles as a hobby. So while "pro" design features are definitely nice, for impacts, with my usage they work fine.

B I couldn't find a complete set with no skips that went from 10mm to 36mm in that price range.

C Sunex, in my set at least, doesn't use the same blank for close sizes. This is important to me because I use the sockets to double as seal drivers. 0.5-1mm difference in OA dia counts here.

Those Pit Pro impacts look great and if they were offered in a more complete set I probably would have gone with them.

Edit: FWIW my Sunex set is both stamped and etched for size markings...

 

[Mr_B]

What were the cost-cutting designs on the Sunnex?

Thank you

short length shouldering on deeps, no decent lead chamfer on drive square, has pin hole but not the o-ring/retainer groove (they only manage do groove to extensions).
Sunex are just average taiwan impact sockets at best, spendy for what they actually are. find equal and better taiwan coo under brands like japan style, premier, laser and generic taiwan .
Hopefully sunex still roll stamping markings as well as laser etch, laser etch only for pro use impacts is a pita ...

 

[Woody1320]

Any thoughts on the Klutch impact sockets? I've had my eye on this set (they have smaller sets which would fit the OP's needs, as well). Wasn't sure if Klutch was worth looking at for impact sockets.

https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631739_200631739

 

[Mr_B]

^
Don't think I bother with them, not a great design, I suppose at buck a socket hard complain but they buck fifty and for about 50cents to a buck more you can get way better .
For those wanting use as stand in for chromes you best with proper shouldering over tapered end and 2/3 step shouldering length on deeps, also want review drive end for detents or you have line ball up with socket pin hole every time, a lead taper useful on drive square too, also stamp size handy as etching soon bad on an impact once rubbed against something at speed in use on the impact wrench ...

 

[dan360]

If you shop well and buy well, you can get 'thin wall' impact sockets that for all intents and purposes are going to work in most of the same places the chrome ones will.

Very infrequently I run into times when I need the 'thinner' walls of the chrome sockets.

At work, I use my impact sockets almost exclusively these days but I work on heavy machinery and stationary engines, YMMV depending on your trade