Impact Wrenches?
- Thread starter GreenBay
- Start date
redwrench60
Well-known member
Will the techs you hire not have their own? Or are you saying you're going to furnish them?
Disclaimer: I work for Ingersoll Rand.
With that said, you will most likely want a 1/2" impact with an extended anvil, most tire shops use the IR231HA-2 it has good power and is very durable.
http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/products/tools/impactools/maintenance-automotive-impactools/1-2-drive/231-series
With that said, you will most likely want a 1/2" impact with an extended anvil, most tire shops use the IR231HA-2 it has good power and is very durable.
http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/products/tools/impactools/maintenance-automotive-impactools/1-2-drive/231-series
redwrench60
Well-known member
To answer your actual question the industry standard and my personal favorite is Ingersoll Rand.
redwrench60
Well-known member
^^^^^lol I knew you'd 'hook a Marlin' with this thread. 
lol.......
redwrench60
Well-known member
Make sure to get a model that discharges exhaust air down out of the handle. It cuts down on airborne brake dust, noise and eye injuries.
JoeSnapOn
Well-known member
Not trying to make waves but your opening up your own tire business and you don't already have a go-to favorite for ripping off lugs? IR for air powered. Snap On for cordless. And good look with the business.
Joe
Joe
kythri
Well-known member
Is it normal that someone working for a tire shop buys their own tools?
devoncoolman
Well-known member
I would recomend ir for durablity, price, and power output. The 231 ir is a real work horse it will last a long time. But the ti-max series guns are lighter and more powerful. The new matco is a nice gun but i broke the hammer in mine last week after only 6 months of use. My snap-on mg725 has been going strong for 6 years not one hicup and i beat the **** out of it.
Ir's cordless tools are actually very good tools.
Ir's cordless tools are actually very good tools.
justme-
Well-known member
TI series is overpowered for tires unless you do mostly trucks imo. 90% of tire shops I have been in use 231 series IR. Powerful enough for any passenger car or light truck unless some gorilla used a TI series to put them on last time with out torque limiting sockets/extensions.
BTW, 231s are available very inexpensively - new less than half a TI series. I picked up a fresh rebuilt 231h with the long anvil (anvil length doesn't matter to me) for the cost of the rebuild kit - $25
BTW, 231s are available very inexpensively - new less than half a TI series. I picked up a fresh rebuilt 231h with the long anvil (anvil length doesn't matter to me) for the cost of the rebuild kit - $25
Most shops do use the 231.....mine does. At least every other day they need my 2135 ti max.......you always get ones that are rusted or hammered on. Around here rust is the culprit. Most places in my area hand torque, snug by gun, then torque with a torque wrench. If the wrench clicks before moving........start over. Torque sticks are great for me.........they dont work right, and so hello warpped rotor! I love quick and easy brake jobs!
Only thing that's easily greaseable on a 231 is the rear bearing for the rotor. You have to remove the hammer cover to grease the hammers and anvil on all the 231 models, which are the parts really doing the heavy work, and most expensive as well. Also, the 231C exhausts out the front. The 231H exhausts out the bottom and would be a better choice for said issues with brake dust in a tire shop environment, and they can be found with extended anvils easily as well.
You are actually mistaken. The grease fitting in the back of the 231 fills a cavity that communicates with the mechanism via a hole down the center of the rotor. The grease then goes through a hole in the center of the anvil to crossed drilled holes that put the grease right in the center of the hammers. Because there is a pressure differential between the cavity in the back and the mechanism, all you need to do is fill the back cavity and the grease will be drawn exactly where it is needed.
techenthusiast
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2014
- Messages
- 486
Is it possible to over oil air tools?
I know it comes right out and into the muffler but I was just wondering.
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I dont know if its possible........I think that if it was I would have done it by now. I oil my air tools after every job. Sometimes during the job. Some say I am nuts about oiling them.....but I have NEVER had an air tool break or wear out. Not a single one. When the someone in the shop has a stuck bolt......they always ask for my air gun. Yesterday my 1/2 took off some lugnuts the shops 3/4 could not do......
Thats not common.......but it happened. I always grease my air tools that have a zerk when needed, and oil all the time.
Thats not common.......but it happened. I always grease my air tools that have a zerk when needed, and oil all the time.
It has a grease zerk on the back.........good god.....grease it. It is there for a reason. Please tell me more about not greasing a factory installed grease zerk. Guess what ? I have no idea whats inside an air impact........cause none of mine have ever broke. Weird. Guess I better change what I have been doing for 20 years.
The location of the grease fitting is counter intuitive, it is in the back but it is actually supply grease tot he mechanism in the front. The bearing in the back is pre-greased and can easily go the life of the tool without having grease added.
I agree , it might not be the best........but the grease still gets to the front. I would imagine thats why it is now on the front case on the higher end guns. A quick turn to hear if there is any grease in the hammer case is an easy way to tell. I greased the six shop guns yesterday. They all made the tink tink noise before greasing, and did not after. So it does work fine.
BTW, glad to see a new 1/2 gun is coming........I for one will be excited to get it!
redwrench60
Well-known member
It's hard to over oil them BUT, I know from experience you can over GREASE them. Pump too much grease into an impact's hammercase and it'll kill the power and RPMs. Clean it out and it will be fine. A few pumps is all it takes.
Very true......I have done that as well.
You're correct, I was wrong on that. And that is a great feature too.