improve an engine hoist?

[metalmagpie]

Most guys with shops eventually own an engine hoist. Most of my life they would be rated for 2 tons and they would be imported, but nowadays HF sells lighter ones. But they all work about the same. They aren't always easy to use or convenient, but I have found many ways to use one as I'm sure everyone else has too. One thing I've often wished for on mine was the ability to swivel the hook. I know, I know - you can pull the bolt holding on the load chain, move the chain up or down 1 link and rotate the chain 90 degrees and bolt it back in and the hook will hang in a different direction. But often you don't want a 90 degree turn. For example, some loads want to turn a little but you need them oriented straight.

Of course, you can buy a separate chain swivel fixture, the kind with back to back clevis hooks. But that lowers the hook by about 3" and it always seems I need every bit of hook height I can get.

So I've long wished I could find an inexpensive swivel hook that fastens directly to a chain end without any intervening hardware. Well, I found one! I was impressed enough to post this and recommend it to the bazillions of other engine hoist owners. What do I like about it? Well, it swivels and attaches directly to 3/8" chain. It isn't rated for 2 tons, but then I almost never lift over 2400 pounds anyway (that's a Bridgeport mill, which is a mighty stout lift for one of these hoists). This one has a standard working load of 1000kg which is 2240 pounds or a bit over 1 ton. That's enough for me. I also like it's mousing device. It feels very sturdy and the spring is nice and tight. It feels like it will last a lifetime. It is made of 304 stainless, too. It shouldn't rust. It has a nice fit and finish. Yes, it's Chinese, but it does not say so anywhere on it. Best of all, it only cost me $16.48 including shipping. The item showed up in my mail 12 days after I ordered it. See pix:

Here is the link to the ebay posting:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162046825491

I just thought if I think this is a good deal, you might too.

metalmagpie

 

[Colin Len]

Great idea! That's been a peeve of mine as well. But mainly my issue with hoists is how damn big and unwieldy they are. I know that's needed for some instances but I work exclusively on small cars, the largest thing I'd be lifting would be 450-500lbs and would love a lighter and more compact hoist. I don't use a hoist often enough for it to matter much though, generally I just find a friend I can borrow one from and then try to give it back ASAP so it's not taking up room in my garage.

 

[48fordnut]

MM, I like that piece. I have something similar.
I only pick up eng and trans, maybe 750 lbs. I'm watching it.
Will have to look at my set up tomorrow. Thanks for the link.

 

[goingtoarizona]

I got one of those years ago, it's the best. Trying to remove, or better yet stab an engine with the chain off by 45 degrees is a pain!

 

[metalmagpie]

Here is the swivel hook temporarily installed on my old 2-ton import engine hoist:

You can see how it exactly fits engine hoist lift chain. The hook is almost exactly the same size as the original one, too. All in all, it's like it was made for it.

I just stuck the last link on the chain down through the hole and popped the clevis on the swivel hook through it, leaving the rest of the original chain and hook still attached. That's why you can still see them.

metalmagpie

 

[Schurkey]

I'd trust a 1000 KG-rated Chinese hook to about 1000 lbs. Maybe.

 

[ebamba]

Here is the swivel hook temporarily installed on my old 2-ton import engine hoist:

You can see how it exactly fits engine hoist lift chain. The hook is almost exactly the same size as the original one, too. All in all, it's like it was made for it.

I just stuck the last link on the chain down through the hole and popped the clevis on the swivel hook through it, leaving the rest of the original chain and hook still attached. That's why you can still see them.

metalmagpie

You're not worried about the crack on the end of that lift arm? Or are you installing that bolt pictured, in the hole the way it was intended?

 

[Schurkey]

You're not worried about the crack on the end of that lift arm? Or are you installing that bolt pictured, in the hole the way it was intended?

Thanks. Saved me some typing.

Dangerous deal, that one.

 

[csp]

Here is the swivel hook temporarily installed on my old 2-ton import engine hoist:

Info previously stated which is relevant to the last two posts.

 

[ebamba]

Info previously stated which is relevant to the last two posts.

Thanks for pointing that out. I glossed right over that part of the thread. I should've left out the question about using the bolt as it was intended. Didn't mean to sound condescending.
With that, my first question remains relevant re. using that lift when it shows signs of damage. I'm sure that the manufacturer would advise against it.

 

[y'sguy]

I was hoping to see more ideas as to how to safely improve our basic folding engine crane for the diy guy. I've pulled an engine maybe 10-12 times in my lifetime. And yet I own a hoist! Ya gotta have one when ya need one.
Now to my question.
Somewhere in the past I have seen a diy rig that had a cam setup I think, that was engineered to pump up the the jack. So instead of a jack pump handle, you use your cordless drill. Does this make any sense? I know I've seen this but can't seem to search it out anywhere.

 

[blazemaster83]

That swivel hook is a good idea, but I think I would want a full capacity hook. I actually have a 3 ton engine hoist which is a lot larger than most hoists. A few years ago I had a smaller 2 ton hoist and replaced the wheels with some high quality casters, I would recommend doing that. I still need to do it to the 3 ton model...

 

[metalmagpie]

"I'd trust a 1000 KG-rated Chinese hook to about 1000 lbs."

Well, of course all import engine hoists are Chinese. Including their supposed 4000 pound hooks. Those hooks are about the same size as this hook. My guess is that about one ton is a more conservative rating. However, all properly made hooks bend open rather than suddenly break. I've seen some decent quality tool steel come from China on some of their chef's knives. The technology is there, it's just do they use it or not. I'm telling you, I've been working with metal all my life and these hooks aren't ****, they're the real thing.

Anyway, you can take my suggestion or leave it. It's guaranteed to be worth at least what you paid for it.

metalmagpie

 

[metalmagpie]

"You're not worried about the crack on the end of that lift arm?"

If it were cracked sure I'd worry. It's just bent a little because one time I had to run the chain out that way for some reason. But since you pointed it out, I'll go cut a bit off the end, mill a new slot and drill a new hole for the chain retention bolt. Or maybe I'll just heat it up, stick a big square bar in the end and hammer it flat again.

This isn't my main hoist anyway, just an old one I keep under a canopy in my driveway. Here's a link which shows my current shop crane:

http://nwnative.us/Grant/shop articles/Ruger

metalmagpie

 

[pepi]

The clevis looks like the weakest link on that rig, think I'd go with what I got. I don't see an advantage of the swivel anyway.

 

[ebamba]

"You're not worried about the crack on the end of that lift arm?"

If it were cracked sure I'd worry. It's just bent a little because one time I had to run the chain out that way for some reason. But since you pointed it out, I'll go cut a bit off the end, mill a new slot and drill a new hole for the chain retention bolt. Or maybe I'll just heat it up, stick a big square bar in the end and hammer it flat again.

This isn't my main hoist anyway, just an old one I keep under a canopy in my driveway. Here's a link which shows my current shop crane:

http://nwnative.us/Grant/shop articles/Ruger

metalmagpie

Point taken. It just looked like a crack from the camera angle. Didn't mean to come off as offensive. I'm no expert I'm metallurgy, and can't weld if my life depended on it (not yet at least), so I would probably just replace the arm. Again no offense intended.
That's an awesome lift in the link. Nice job on the resto.

 

[metalhead212121]

subscribing...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Great idea! That's been a peeve of mine as well. But mainly my issue with hoists is how damn big and unwieldy they are. I know that's needed for some instances but I work exclusively on small cars, the largest thing I'd be lifting would be 450-500lbs and would love a lighter and more compact hoist. I don't use a hoist often enough for it to matter much though, generally I just find a friend I can borrow one from and then try to give it back ASAP so it's not taking up room in my garage.

I've got a wheel chair lift and used it to pull motor and trans from a neon. It was just the right size.

 

[gungatim]

here's my contribution:
the biggest improvement I made to mine is the relief valve. I always struggled trying to get the pump handle on the little valve and adjusting the release slowly.

so I got a 6" cast iron hand wheel, and a cheap no-name impact socket from the flea market. cut a couple slices out of the socket opposite each other so it just slips on the "T" of the valve. welded the hand wheel to the socket, then a quick zap of weld on the end of the socket so it won't come off the valve and voila! nice easy to reach and lightly adjust the lowering of the engine!

 

[matt_i]

I have a different 3T version which originally came from HF. Has been used on more machine rigging jobs than engines. First order of business was to scrap the chain and hook that came with it and get some Pewag Gr80 chain and hook items from McMaster Carr. Next up was to replace the Grade 1.5 nuts and bolts (literally the threadform was galling together when tightened, the metallurgy was so poor) with similar Gr5 parts. I machined some bushings to keep the ram centered on the arm, previously it could float. It did a lot of work moving machines as my only rigging tool and also on splitting a tractor, up until the time when I got a forklift....but I still keep it in dry storage because of the portability. I helped a friend move a Bridgeport mill out of a house with a long sloped pea-gravel driveway (why pea gravel, I will never understand). He had a short-deck trailer rated and I brought the hoist in pieces, assembled, and it was safely removed.

 

[NUTTSGT]

It's been a few days now, have you had the chance to load it and test it out yet ?

 

[Brian_WK]

here's my contribution:
the biggest improvement I made to mine is the relief valve. I always struggled trying to get the pump handle on the little valve and adjusting the release slowly.

so I got a 6" cast iron hand wheel, and a cheap no-name impact socket from the flea market. cut a couple slices out of the socket opposite each other so it just slips on the "T" of the valve. welded the hand wheel to the socket, then a quick zap of weld on the end of the socket so it won't come off the valve and voila! nice easy to reach and lightly adjust the lowering of the engine!

I did kind of the same thing except I pounded the roll pin out of the t-slot on the release on mine and pounded in a "L" shaped allen key. That way then the allen key is pointed up it is released horizontal right it is closed. It makes it much easier to modulate as well. As I have about 3 inchs of leverage.

Brian