In a bad jam with flooring. Need advice

[ive]

Hi everyone.

I've been doing some laminate flooring for my mother in law. I thought I did a decent job but have realized that where the door jam is I didn't lay any vapour barrier spunge stuff between the door jams which means that when I walk on it it flexs. I'd like to rip up the floor to put some of the vapour Barrie underneath but this is a big task.

What can I do to somehow stop that from flexing? Can I somehow fill that gap between the laminate and concretewithout ripping up the floor?

Thanks so much. Any input is greatly appreciated as I'd like to fix this because my mother in law will complain.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

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[ive]

 

[ive]

Yay! Picture worked.

Any advice?

 

[kwschumm]

If it were me I'd see if the laminate manufacturer documents a method for replacing individual pieces of laminate. Since the laminate is parallel with the door jambs maybe that would work.

 

[ive]

Hi. Thanks for asking. I don't know how I could do that nicely as it's a tongue and groove like system. Ideas?

 

[PugetDude]

Option 1. Cut out the piece of laminate that spans the door jamb; cut it into 1" wide pieces lengthwise and use a dremel tool to crosscut it- be careful not to cut into the adjoining pieces you want to leave intact. Pry out the first piece with a putty knife or chisel, the rest should lift right out. Be careful not to damage the tongue or groove on the pieces you're leaving in place.

Install the vapor barrier/padding,

Measure carefully, cut a new piece of laminate that exactly replaces the one (or two) you took out. With a sharp block plane , shave the bottom off the grooved side only.

You should be able to slide the tongue side in place and drop the grooved side down over the mating tongue on the existing board. , since you removed the bottom of the groove.

When you're satisfied with the fit, wipe the existing tongue and the underside of the grooved board down with denatured alcohol to break the glaze, apply a bit of glue (I've used liquid nails) all around and drop the board into place. It should still "snap" down between the tongue and groove.

Put a weight on it and let it dry. If you're concerned about it coming up, shoot a few brad nails through the laminate into the subfloor at the door frame and maybe a couple in the middle. With a bit of color putty they'll be inconspicuous.

Option 2 would be to use a color-matched threshold (T-mold) piece to cover the seam where the pieces meet. I'd try #1 first- you can always default to #2.

 

[ive]

Ok. I'm gonna try that.

I've just been reading about drilling a hole in the board and injecting insulation foam.

What do you guys think about that? Would certainly be easier, but would it push the boards up?

 

[kwschumm]

Hi. Thanks for asking. I don't know how I could do that nicely as it's a tongue and groove like system. Ideas?

As I posted, check with the manufacturer to see if they have a "best" method of removing and replacing a single laminate strip. I'm sure you won't be the first person who needs to remove a strip or two in the middle of a field.

 

[Radix2]

I'd probably try the injection first if you think you can do it in a hidden way. If it fails, you can still cut out those pieces and either try to glue back or t-mold. Use the low expansion stuff.

If you read the directions, they usually don't recommend running through doorways less than 4 feet, so the rec from them would be t-molding anyway.

 

[Jinks]

PugetDude got it right. I had an installer drop a tool on an engineered wood floor (glue down), & that's the way they replaced the one plank he damaged. If you're concerned about a plank lifting or moving look into a "pin nailer". It uses small gauge pins with almost no head. Usually you can't see them, but if you have one showing a tiny spot of filler covers it easily.

 

[polizei1]

Call me crazy, but if it's just one board I would just use a small gauge finish nailer and then fill the hole with colored putty. Nail the two ends first and if that isn't enough, put one in the center too.

 

[Ditch]

If she is the stereotypical mother in law, here is the solution:

1) Dig a deep hole
2) throw her in it
3) fill hole

 

[73fxe]

Pick the easiest end and start taking it apart. It will take some time but You will know it's done right. But as a few have said a T molding is what is supposed to be used in a doorway.

 

[ive]

Hi guys.
Well it seems I should have used T moulding. Argh!

I'm gonna try the low expanding foam as that's the easiest step. If that doesn't work I will move on to replacing the plank.

Thanks to everyone for their input. I truly appreciate it. Especially Ditch. Lol

 

[Ditch]

 

[Radix2]

Hi guys.
Well it seems I should have used T moulding. Argh!

I'm gonna try the low expanding foam as that's the easiest step. If that doesn't work I will move on to replacing the plank.

Thanks to everyone for their input. I truly appreciate it. Especially Ditch. Lol

Many installers violate the t-molding rule, the issue is that the manufacturers don't want liability of the planks coming apart when there are big areas attached by a little overlap.

If you can, make sure whatever you try is in the place where the t-mold would go (under the door) - you can easily add the t-mold by cutting out the strip of flooring there without harming the rest of the floor after that if you need to. You could even insert the underlayment easily under the two sides through the gap.

The only thing to kick yourself for was not putting the underlayment everywhere. Not sure what you were thinking on that.

 

[Richard Cranium]

foam may raise up the area too much. I don't like the foam ideal.

 

[Keithinsc]

Hi guys.
Well it seems I should have used T moulding. Argh!

I'm gonna try the low expanding foam as that's the easiest step. If that doesn't work I will move on to replacing the plank.

Thanks to everyone for their input. I truly appreciate it. Especially Ditch. Lol

Before you foam, lay down a bunch of masking tape or plastic. Once the void is full, the foam will want to back out of the hole and can get everywhere.

If you have used it before, you know it is a pain in the rear to cleanup.

Might want to drill 2-3 holes and shoot some in each.

good luck!