Bodj Built
Well-known member
Hey everyone,
I am in the final stages of building built in bookshelves for my wife. I have been putting off making the cabinet doors as long as I can, because I made a bit of a dumb mistake. The fluted trim has a thickness of 3/8", but I should have spaced them off the lower cabinet section an additional 3/8" so they would be 3/4" deep and match the thickness required for the cabinet doors in order to use a standard hinge setup.
My options now include making the cabinet door thinner to match (not ideal in terms of strength and depth required for the mortised Blum hinges), but I imagine I can shim the hinge off the back of the cabinet to not require as deep of a mortise. The plasma table would make quick work of that...
The other option is to make the cabinet door the full 3/4" thickness with a 3/8"x3/8" rabbet so it can be inset into the frame, allowing it to be flush with the fluted trim. This would increase strength, but I don't believe the euro style mortised hinges would work because the rabbeted lip would interfere with the frame when opening.
A post from 20 years ago shows how a gentleman went about this hinge issue, and he included part numbers so it's definitely an option.
www.finewoodworking.com
Would something like this work as well? It appears to follow the same motion
I believe the biggest issue is getting space between the door and frame when open.
I understand the last two hinges are not designed for a face frame, but I can easily fix that if needed. Before I do that, does anyone have any suggestions for hinges that will easily work with my current setup?
Edit: it actually looks like this will work. Can anyone confirm?
I am in the final stages of building built in bookshelves for my wife. I have been putting off making the cabinet doors as long as I can, because I made a bit of a dumb mistake. The fluted trim has a thickness of 3/8", but I should have spaced them off the lower cabinet section an additional 3/8" so they would be 3/4" deep and match the thickness required for the cabinet doors in order to use a standard hinge setup.
My options now include making the cabinet door thinner to match (not ideal in terms of strength and depth required for the mortised Blum hinges), but I imagine I can shim the hinge off the back of the cabinet to not require as deep of a mortise. The plasma table would make quick work of that...
The other option is to make the cabinet door the full 3/4" thickness with a 3/8"x3/8" rabbet so it can be inset into the frame, allowing it to be flush with the fluted trim. This would increase strength, but I don't believe the euro style mortised hinges would work because the rabbeted lip would interfere with the frame when opening.
A post from 20 years ago shows how a gentleman went about this hinge issue, and he included part numbers so it's definitely an option.
Concealed hinge for 3/8 inset door - FineWoodworking
A customer of mine has stained and varnished slab birch plywood 3/8 inset cabinet doors with exposed hinges. He wants to paint the doors white and use concealed hinges. Anybody […]
www.finewoodworking.com
Would something like this work as well? It appears to follow the same motion
I believe the biggest issue is getting space between the door and frame when open.
I understand the last two hinges are not designed for a face frame, but I can easily fix that if needed. Before I do that, does anyone have any suggestions for hinges that will easily work with my current setup?
Edit: it actually looks like this will work. Can anyone confirm?
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