In Floor Heat floating Slab ok?

[mnwebb]

Hey All, my architect has told me that in-floor heat in a floating monolithic slab floor is not a good idea and he won't be responsible is something happens, like cracking. Is there ANY reasons he could be correct?

He also says that insulating horizontally from the footings is a waste, so perhaps heating isn't his strongest suit.

Garage is in MN, thanks!@
-W

 

[Randy in Maine]

I would get a better architect.

 

[ConCretin]

I'm with my fellow Mainah on this one.

 

[GrayFlattop]

I've got to agree with the gentlemen above. Get a better architect. In-floor radiant is nothing new and it is the most comfortable type of heat there is.

Insulate horizontally as well as under the slab and you will have a great product.

 

[Kaizen]

Cracking issues can be minimized by keeping a loop from crossing into another area. Example 36 wide garage has 3 12 foot wide sections that are its own loop. In each section you should plan where you will cut the joint and put foam around the pex for a little extra flexibility. Cut joints must be planned and cut to minimize issues. Leaving a floor to crack on its own will put stress on the pex. However heaving is the biggest issues


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[BMW Rider]

Mines been doing just fine for 19 years. It has a few small cracks, but the rebar and wire keeps it from moving. Most of the cracks appeared early on and were filled in to keep the water and salt out. They have not changed in several years.

My garage was built on an undisturbed base with good compacted gravel on top.

 

[850xpeps]

Yep change the architect. Nothing wrong with infloor heat on a monolithic floor. Like any slab proper prep is important. And yes insulate out from the slab or down below frost.

 

[joe--h]

You have hired the Clueless, move on before it's too late.
Joe H

 

[rburke65]

I'm no architect, but I think you might want a second opinion.

 

[nelstomlinson]

Dump that clown. It works fine, in a far more extreme climate that yours.

 

[ConCretin]

Nothing wrong with the concept but there are a couple of design considerations you'll probably want to take into account.

A good base is always important and even more so here. In addition, I'd always opt for rebar in a mono slab especially with radiant tubing to make sure everything holds together.

If frost is a concern, you'll want to extend the insulation out several feet horizontally around the perimeter. The insulation will retain the earth's natural heat to keep the frost out from under your slab.

You'll also want to come up with a detail to insulate the vertical face of the slab to limit heat loss there.

Now that you've isolated the slab thermally from the ground, your slab will cool off more quickly in the event your heating system or power fails. It will still take a while but you'll want a plan to prevent freeze up.

Nothing too difficult here. Just pay attention to the details and you'll end up with a nice warm slab to work on.

 

[mnwebb]

Thanks everyone and esp LLWillysfan!

A lot of great advice!

 

[MNMike]

I have in floor heat in a 28x32 mono slab...... no problems.

Mike

 

[mnwebb]

Mike, That is about the size mine will be, did you hire out the work or do it yourself? Where did you source the parts and did you go gas or electric boiler?

Thx,W

 

[MNMike]

W,
The Concrete contractor placed the plastic and foam insulation. I installed the pex tubing. I bought the manifold from Pex Superstore and a NG boiler package from Menards, it was the Hydro Smart pre-assembled panel. Although Hydro smart customer service is top notch their product is not. I would not recommend going this route again.
I believe Pex Superstore can put a package together for you. I have also read that people have just purchased the pieces and assembled them themselves. I would do that if I had to do it again.

Good Luck,
Mike