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In-Floor Heat Help! Garage Gurus needed.

mnwebb

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Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
98
Location
St.Paul, MN
I am trying to figure out my most compact, and attractive way, to route my in-floor heat system. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I will have 2 zones, one in the lower cement floor and one under the 2nd story rafters. I have never done this and it probably shows.

I was told that the pumps have a longer life if the flow of water is upwards (any truth to that?). So one design is with pumps flowing down and one with pumps flowing up.

I will have wallboard, and some kind of board that the whole system attaches to.

Thanks all!
-MNWebb
 

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mnwebb

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Mar 6, 2017
Messages
98
Location
St.Paul, MN
Sorry, I double posted (trying to get the photos to show up better) and now I ca't delete the 1st post.....:-(
 

Fix Until Broke

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Feb 21, 2016
Messages
794
Location
SE Wisconsin
I don't believe the pumps care (but have no experience to prove otherwise) - the net pressure they have to deal with is the same either way, the work they do is the same either way. I'd plumb them in the way that is the easiest for service and installation.

I wonder if the 2nd floor will be hard to bleed of air?
 
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mnwebb

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Mar 6, 2017
Messages
98
Location
St.Paul, MN
FixUntilBroke - Thanks...I wonder the same thing, but it's done all the time so there must be a method.
 

Nick in WI

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Nov 6, 2012
Messages
129
I'm far from an expert but don't you want to use different water temperatures for floor joists heating vs slab heating? Maybe someone with more experience can chime in.
 
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mike_dmt

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Oct 9, 2015
Messages
182
Location
Spokane Washington
I don't know about the pump direction, but I do know you want to be very careful with the calculations for the zones from the manifolds. If I remember right, you want no more than 300' of tubing on a loop.

As far as attractive, I would install osb or plywood backing behind whatever you sheet the walls in, so you always have something positive to hang everything from and anchor to.

Not to mention that some of what you have in the pic can be tucked inside an interior wall, and essentially take up much less wall space than what you have pictured. It would take a minute to plan it out, and make sure the points of failure are accessible, but completely doable.

To vent the system, I used something like this on mine:https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spiroth...MOKn15n-K2Z3uXmhjeQuVOeaz_vfoTLoaAqYSEALw_wcB
 
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mnwebb

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Joined
Mar 6, 2017
Messages
98
Location
St.Paul, MN
mike dmt....good advice, thanks! Are you saying that the vent (in your link) should be in the upper floor pex layout to bleed out any air?

No run is over 300', so I'm good there.

-MNWebb
 

86turbodsl

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Jul 1, 2005
Messages
6,558
Location
Michigan
Any loops on the same pump should be same length if possible or install a flow control valve for the different length loops. You'll want higher temps for the upstairs runs unless you're not doing under floor. the 300' rule is for half inch, it gets longer or shorter for other sizes.

From experience, it can be difficult to get all the air out of a loop that pumps down while pump mounted vertical. Not impossible, but can take longer to purge.
 
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mnwebb

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Mar 6, 2017
Messages
98
Location
St.Paul, MN
Thanks 86turbodsl, how about purging the pex that runs overhead, is that difficult to get the air out?
 

blackbird1

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Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Messages
3
Location
caldron
Mine is simple been in floor 15 years, still works great ,not as high tech as yours, one loop in and out, lines go up. One pump, one water heater on low, 1000 sq ft space, purged at install. No problems since.
 
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