To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

In Floor lighting question, how to "mount"

gnpenning

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2015
Messages
2,754
Location
I have more questions than answers.
I've spent to much time under cars with not enough light in the right place and having to keep moving my light not to appreciate this.

Would you do more or less lights if you did it over?

Move the lights in or out (spacing)?

Have more than one switch?

Thanks for sharing. Even more thanks for the follow up.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

alberto

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2007
Messages
756
I think those are great! I would do them if I was pouring a new floor. Don't let the haters drag you down. And they look uber cool.

Did you put them all on one switch or are they separately switched?
 
Last edited:

toplessHO

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2014
Messages
14,014
Location
central florida
would be curious to see if any heat is going towards that PVC enclosure
all of the walkway lighting Ive put in had a metal can that enclosed it
but then again it was all UL listed
 
OP
D

Disney

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
304
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
I've spent to much time under cars with not enough light in the right place and having to keep moving my light not to appreciate this.

Would you do more or less lights if you did it over?

Move the lights in or out (spacing)?

Have more than one switch?

Thanks for sharing. Even more thanks for the follow up.


I think if anything i'd go with lower wattage lights. These are 12W each and it's very bright. I think 9W might be ......... better suited. Not that these are TOO bright, but they are freakin bright. I have talked about making a diffuser, and that might be the better fix.

I also wish I had placed two more towards the rear of the car. I figured i spend more time under the engine end, and I do... But I spend more time that I thought I would in the rear of the car. I'd like to have as much light there as I do up front. I stopped just about the rear axle and would like to have gone with another row further back.

Spacing is perfect. Wouldn't change that by an inch. I'll admit that I am sometime nervous when parking the car because the front tires are centered right on two of the lights, but it's not been a problem, it's just me.

I would not have them on separate switches, but I might pull wire and put the switch on the lift. It would only save me a few steps... And would cost a bunch in conduit and wire... OK I might not do that. lol
 
OP
D

Disney

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
304
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
I think those are great! I would do them if I was pouring a new floor. Don't let the haters drag you down. And they look uber cool.

Did you put them all on one switch or are they separately switched?

Thanks! I am still shocked to see the haters on this. If they saw it in person, they couldn't hate on it.

They are all on one switch. Reasons for this....

1. If I had them individual, I would create an obstructive shadow. When they all are on, I don't have any issues with shadows.
2. They are low wattage. They are 12W each, 96W total. I'm not concerned about the energy use from these.
3. I am lazy and doing one switch is way easier than two. :)
 

cynicalrider

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2014
Messages
52
I love this concept. Can you easily add a dimmer to the lights for situations like you described where they would be a distraction? I know it's just as easy to turn them off too, but an idea none the less.
 

dslabuda

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
253
Location
NW Indiana
Maybe I missed it, but was it ever posted about manufacturer, part number, or where they were purchased?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

CJ7VFR

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
2,939
Location
Central New Jersey
One could be added, but I'm too cheap for that.

Too cheap? No. Not after seeing the great job you did on the installation of the lights, and buying the lights themselves.

A nice dimmer switch would only cost you about 15 bucks, and it would only take you about 5 minutes to remove your old light switch and put in the dimmer switch.

You can't really get any cheaper than that, and you would have pretty much infinite light control for the output of your floor lights.

Jim
 

tfi racing

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2008
Messages
2,907
Location
Cedar,BC
Cool,looks like they do the job and despite the regulatory code thumpers and worshippers that lurk here,they have not created a fiery shaft straight to hell destroying all humanity and possessions within a ten mile radius.:evil:
Is that a LSX turbo'd Mustang on the lift,would like to hear a bit about that.
 

ASHMAN_AZ

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 17, 2015
Messages
182
Location
Vail, AZ
Try these it's a Hubble concrete floor box you can get the at Home Depot. I had to use a 4" diamond blade on my grinder to enlarge the hole diameter and put a step in it to hold the light flush with the floor.

20140524_163844.jpg


20140524_172951.jpg


31.jpg

^^ this is what I would worry about, the slab cracked.
I would want to make steel Cans that have rebar welded to them to help prevent cracks.
 

simpler=better

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2015
Messages
499
Location
Baltimore, Maryland
When I started reading this, I though "Oh that poor man, he's got some kind of terrible head injury."

But WOW, that actually turned out really well. Much much much better than expected!
 

MrBalll

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Messages
318
Location
West Texas
Too bad I didn't see this a month ago when my slab was poured.
Good job on the install. Lighting looks good in your pictures.
 

fastevo9

Active member
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Messages
43
Location
NY
Hey guys keep in mind a few things. First when using a metal box in concrete that does not pair with a light manufacturers fixture you have to check and make sure the leds don't overheat. Plastic in ground boxes are ok but if you get some cheap nonsense and then pour concrete i've seen some flatten faster than an accordion. The leds used in this thread no offense are cheap epistar leds and chances are will blow out after a while. If they do go out and the fixture may or may not be available because its a cheaper led product. Then you run into an issue of finding something else to fit the box and get stuck possibly chopping up the floor.
 

simpler=better

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2015
Messages
499
Location
Baltimore, Maryland
Hey guys keep in mind a few things. First when using a metal box in concrete that does not pair with a light manufacturers fixture you have to check and make sure the leds don't overheat. Plastic in ground boxes are ok but if you get some cheap nonsense and then pour concrete i've seen some flatten faster than an accordion. The leds used in this thread no offense are cheap epistar leds and chances are will blow out after a while. If they do go out and the fixture may or may not be available because its a cheaper led product. Then you run into an issue of finding something else to fit the box and get stuck possibly chopping up the floor.

Epistars are cheap ****, but if you can solder they're not hard to swap for whatever's in style at the moment.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom