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Inch Pound Torque Wrench

cj7365

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Just want to know if alot of people use a Inch pound torque wrench, I have only used one, one time, and that was when I was setting up a ring and pinion, to set the pinion bearing pre load. What other uses do mechanics use these for
 
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SMKS

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I use mine pretty frequently.

I have a 1/4" drive that goes up to around 90 in lbs. I also have a 3/8" that goes from 50-250 in lbs.

I use the 1/4" pretty much only on bikes. I use the 3/8" on lots of things.
 

NC-Fordguy

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Just want to know if alot of people use a Inch pound torque wrench, I have only used one, one time, and that was when I was setting up a ring and pinion, to set the pinion bearing pre load. What other uses do mechanics use these for


T-case output shaft

As a heep owner you should know that. Then again I guess Barbie still drives yours around the mall

:lol_hitti
 

GirlnAgarage

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Adjusting the bands on the 48RE (only know that because it's on my 60k maintenance list).
 

Altec

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Stuff like intake, oil pans water pumps, any critical area should be torqued.
 

SMKS

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Yup, I meant bicycles. There are lots of fasteners on bikes that are only spec'd for 5nm (44 in lbs). But, I don't have that Park Tool torque wrench, I have an older Indestro beam type.

As far as the 3/8" drive, there are lots of fasteners on a vehicle that take lower torque settings. Valve covers are just one example. I sleep better at night knowing all my fasteners are properly torqued. :beer:
 
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rlitman

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Besides motorcycle, they are used in allot of dc power plant work with terminal lugs.

That's what mine does the most. 60 in-lbs for 1/4"x20 stainless bolts in lead posts.

But on the automotive front, I've used it for valve covers.
 

rockwithjason

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band adjustments for my dodge. other than that i use them on the job all the time for adjusting medium voltage switches and such.
 

Mercy

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Bosch platinum spark plugs I think specify 21 in torque, and I have used it installing a Honda OEM roof rack to their specs.
 

bcradio

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Yup, I meant bicycles. There are lots of fasteners on bikes that are only spec'd for 5nm (44 in lbs). But, I don't have that Park Tool torque wrench, I have an older Indestro beam type.

As far as the 3/8" drive, there are lots of fasteners on a vehicle that take lower torque settings. Valve covers are just one example. I sleep better at night knowing all my fasteners are properly torqued. :beer:

do they make Haynes type service manuals for bicycles also? Never thought to look.

Otherwise how do you know what the torque specs are?
 
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kc-steve

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Yup, I meant bicycles. There are lots of fasteners on bikes . . . :beer:

I have been restoring older classic bicycles, but those newer carbon fiber framed bikes definitely require a torque wrench, . . . so you don't crack the frame tightening a nut I suppose.

Back at you, :beer:

Steve
 

Bronson

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I use one a lot on motorcycles.
I used them daily on the V-22 Osprey installing Pyro Emergency Egress panels, with a Inspector/witness torque logbook and inspection log.
 
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rlitman

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I have been restoring older classic bicycles, but those newer carbon fiber framed bikes definitely require a torque wrench, . . . so you don't crack the frame tightening a nut I suppose.

I think Park Tool or others have "general" specifications to follow as a rule.

On older 3 piece cranks, the bottom bracket nuts should be torqued. That's about the only thing that really can use it on a bike, aside from when you encounter carbon or titanium. Then it is indeed very sensitive.

There are plenty of general torque specifications (I recall seeing something from Park too) for fasteners, based on their size, but typically the manufacturer's installation instructions are the correct answer. If they don't start a torque, using "german torque" to "good-n-tite" specifications is usually appropriate.
 

buening

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Stuff like intake, oil pans water pumps, any critical area should be torqued.

Same here. Also use it on auto trans pans, as it seems they are easily overtorqued without a torque wrench, and you get the cork squeezing out the sides.

Things that have low ft-lb torque requirements I typically get out the in-lb beam-style torque wrench and do the unit conversion (x12). I find I have a bit more control of the torque on an in-lb wrench on low torqued bolts due to the shorter lever.
 

Altec

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Yep, you can find charts for torque based on grade, size, pitch/tpi, and if the threads are lubed. Those are normally the same as what are in service manuals. Or close. Not including TTY fasteners.
 

ecally

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I wish I did have one as the specs for many fasteners on my Honda generators and snowblower are in inch-lb, and my only torque wrench doesn't go that low. But in general, I've seen many inch-lb specs for small engines.
 

kc-steve

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems I read some where that the accurate read portions are the readings between 10-percent less than the highest reading, and 10-percent above the lowest reading. Any where within that range gives you the best accuracy.

So if true, then that is important to consider when purchasing a TW.

Steve
 
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SMKS

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I'm looking for an in-lb torque wrench for my bikes if someone has something for sale.

I was considering this one before I bought my Indestro. $40 shipped from Amazon. The Park Tools version is this one rebranded, I believe.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQ3B/?tag=atomicindus08-20
31ODcJaylUL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


HF also has a 1/4" drive torque wrench, but the range isn't as useful for bikes.

do they make Haynes type service manuals for bicycles also? Never thought to look.

Otherwise how do you know what the torque specs are?

The manuals with various products often have torque specs. Plus, many stems and other parts have the torque spec stamped into them.
 

sdguy55

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There is a machinest website that has a chart of metric/sae fastners, pitch, lube, shouldered or not. Printed it off and now have it hanging on my box. Amazingly useful

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2
 

Charles (in GA)

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems I read some where that the accurate read portions are the readings between 10-percent less than the highest reading, and 10-percent above the lowest reading. Any where within that range gives you the best accuracy.

So if true, then that is important to consider when purchasing a TW.

Steve

Virtually all torque wrenches are guaranteed to be accurate from 20% OF SCALE to 100% OF SCALE.

If you have a 100 lb/ft torque wrench, the beam type with a pointer and zero to 100 scale, that means from 20 lb to 100 lbs. If you have a clicker, a 100 lb max clicker probably would not adjust below 20 lbs, which is 20% of FULL SCALE. When they say "scale" they mean "full scale".

Essentially most torque wrenches (clicker types) are guaranteed to be accurate for all of the range they have on the adjustment.

Charles
 

jetmech09

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I use 40-200 in lbs the most, a few times a day. Almost every bolt, nut, screw I touch has a torque. I believe snap-on accounts for the inaccuracy already, so they start labeling where it would be accurate. I've only ever used clicker type, or electronic. The FAA says the bar types are inaccurate.
 
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cj7365

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T-case output shaft

As a heep owner you should know that. Then again I guess Barbie still drives yours around the mall

:lol_hitti

let me correct you for a dana 300 xfer case, you adjust shaft endplay with a dial indicator and shims on the back, get it right next time, fix or repair daily acting like a truck man:lol_hitti
 
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Shadowdog500

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A regular click style inch pound torque wrench comes in handy for car and motorcycle repairs. I have a craftman that does 25-250 in-lb. that I use frequently. For pinion preloads you will need a beam style that does like 5-30in lb. I have a seperate torque wrench that I use just for that, and to be quite honest, it isn't useful for much else. I have use a borrowed snap on dial torq screwdrivers to preload a pinion once and it worked pretty darn well for the job since I didn't have to worry aout clearance to swing the wrench.

Chris
 
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cj7365

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When I needed the Inch Pound Torque Wrench, I just borrowed it, as it was not worth the cost to invest in it. and it was a small dial snap on one, real nice, and real expensive
 

Spyder1gdsm

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I'm an aircraft mechanic and we use inch pound torque wrenches on everything. Our tech data will even specify 400+ in/lbs on certain fasteners. You would think just saying that in ft/lbs would make more sense but nope.
 

NC-Fordguy

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let me correct you for a dana 300 xfer case, you adjust shaft endplay with a dial indicator and shims on the back, get it right next time, fix or repair daily acting like a truck man:lol_hitti

Or you can set it by inch pounds. If you have ever installed an aftermarket output shaft this is the typically the prefered method by the manufacturer. Typically 5-7 inch pounds.

I've done this method on jeep, ford, and international dana 20 cases and on dana 300 cases.

Now go back and swap in some more chevy and ford parts into your heep so it doesn't explode on the trails or keep crusing the mall where it really should be.

Might also want to weld some more plate to the frame so the 2 pieces of 1/8 c channel that makes it up doesn't crack and leave you standing in the middle of the trail with your power steering gearbox on the ground with that "I should have bought a ford" look on your face.

:D
 
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