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Increase garage opening from 7' to 8'

zyoutz

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Joined
Jul 5, 2024
Messages
6
Hey all, I've been doing some research for increasing the opening of my garage doors from 7' to 8' and I was looking for some thoughts from the community. My wife and I plan on replacing the doors, replacing trim, and painting the house anyway so thought with 12' ceilings it might be worth the extra height to some day be able to get my truck w/ topper in and the aesthetic of course. No I haven't done this before, yes all projects (but cement) we do DIY so I'm not worried about skill to be able to do the project.

Most past posts seemed to be people worried about trim, if there is enough height, and how to handle bricks but for me its simply some thoughts of if my plan seems sound and/or if there is anything I'm missing. My general plan would be to:
1. Remove single garage door, drywall, and track
2. Add a temporary wall of 2x4 either with 12' boards or in two sections stacked on top of one another about a foot from the outer wall
3. Cut studs a foot above header, remove header and jack studs
4. Add new jack studs with additional foot of heat
5. Add header, fasten to studs above
6. Remove temporary wall
7. Install door, track, etc
8. Repeat for second garage door

There is a second story room above half of the garage which is supported with the wood beam and post you can see in one of the photos. The other half doesn't support anything above it. I've attached a couple pictures to hopefully help. Thanks in advance for any input!

Links to images since it appears the files I added aren't showing up:
 
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zyoutz

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Joined
Jul 5, 2024
Messages
6
Weird, I thought I added the photos. Seems for some reason they aren't part of the original post.

The house is wood composite siding so luckily easy to trim and work with. As for permits, unfortunately yes and an engineered plan as well. Luckily we have some family friends that can help with that.
 

Mackie

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2023
Messages
30
Do it. I’ve done this for 2 homes (moved up header to convert from 7’ to 8’ doors). Did it to clear a boat windshield, but the openness with the door up is great. You carry a ladder out without clipping the door when up. Looks more proportional too.
 

john.k

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Jun 4, 2024
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Location
Brisbane Qld Australia
Where I used to work ,they would lift the door frames of the shed clear off the ground with the booms of the yard cranes while moving silos or big truck bodies into or out of the shed..............then complain the sliding doors were hard to close.
 
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zyoutz

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2024
Messages
6
In the finest of Garage Journal tradition!
would you consider a 10 foot door?
Go big or Go home!
I've certainly considered it at least for one of the doors. There is something about all that open air that would feel so good!
 

Fav Onefour

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Jul 14, 2022
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711
Location
MN cold and hot
That is quite the beam and post. Was the second stall added to the garage after the fact? Is that post free standing on the pad? The whole post and beam setup looks so beefy but doesn't appear to be tied at top or bottom. If it was added later, I bet the base is not on any type of footing below the pad.

It probably doesn't matter, but you may find some surprises. The brace running from support post to the outer wall is odd. I can't really see why it was added but it appears they were trying to hold the outer wall in place at header level.
Does the garage have traditional trusses? I wonder if it was done with a lean truss style?

Raising door height shouldn't make much difference with the stability vs current setup. I'm a little nuts about getting things right if I'm going to do a project. I'd personally want to verify the reasoning and stability of the quirks in the current structure.
 
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zyoutz

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Jul 5, 2024
Messages
6
Do it. I’ve done this for 2 homes (moved up header to convert from 7’ to 8’ doors). Did it to clear a boat windshield, but the openness with the door up is great. You carry a ladder out without clipping the door when up. Looks more proportional too.
Any tips or things to look out for? How many extra set of hands would you recommend having to help?

Definitely agree on more proportional.
 
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Fav Onefour

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Jul 14, 2022
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711
Location
MN cold and hot
Any tips or things to look out for? How many extra set of hands would you recommend having to help?

Definitely agree on more proportional.
Plan for the worst and hope for the best.
Without surprises the process is pretty basic. You already have a plan for that scenario.
Most work could be done solo. You will benefit with extra hands on the overhead lifting. How many hands it takes to lift and hold beams over your head is up to you and the extra hands.
 

575cat

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Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
244
I just did a 16 foot door ordered another panel now 9.5 tall , got some used tracking added 18 inches to the tracks top and bottom but welded them on , not a big deal just start cutting , over thinking again , too much talking not enough doing I say .
 

Skellyii

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Nov 13, 2021
Messages
1,744
Location
KC Area
My doors are already tall enough...I just need them to be wider so that my fiancé doesn't keep whacking the mirrors. :mad:
 

walta

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Jan 13, 2017
Messages
2,313
Location
Dutzow Missouri
Consider removing the drywall before you make your plan.

Given how much head room you seem to have I am afraid there is a reason they chose a short doors hiding behind that drywall.

The header over the door is likely 14 inches tall 3.5 inches thick and spans both doors at 16-18' long and the better part of 400 pounds.

Note your to do list total skipped the part where you need to reinstall the 400# header 9 feet up in a tight pocket from the inside without damaging the unmatchable siding.

Note step 8 is unworkable if the header is one piece.

I am not saying it is undoable just that it is a 4-man job without equipment and an experienced crew

Walta
 
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zyoutz

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Jul 5, 2024
Messages
6
Plan sounds solid

Unrelated, how's the Canyon?
The Canyon is awesome. Got it for my wife for our trips to Moab and throughout Utah. She isn't a big rider but it was perfect for the green/shade of blues my kids and I will get her out on. Now I just need to convince her she needs a dropper post and I think I'll fully convert her!
 
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zyoutz

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2024
Messages
6
Consider removing the drywall before you make your plan.

Given how much head room you seem to have I am afraid there is a reason they chose a short doors hiding behind that drywall.

The header over the door is likely 14 inches tall 3.5 inches thick and spans both doors at 16-18' long and the better part of 400 pounds.

Note your to do list total skipped the part where you need to reinstall the 400# header 9 feet up in a tight pocket from the inside without damaging the unmatchable siding.

Note step 8 is unworkable if the header is one piece.

I am not saying it is undoable just that it is a 4-man job without equipment and an experienced crew

Walta
Great things to think about. They made me double check a couple things. I think the reason they are originally 7' doors is because this house was built in the 1970s up in the mountains. Obviously not certain but I know they used a wood burning stove for heat for the longeest of times so its possible large doors weren't on their priority list :D.

First, I did confirm there are two separate 10" headers (maybe I should increase those?). They are resting on double jack studs and a 4x4 king stud at least in the middle section, haven't checked the sides yet. And yes, my plan is to rip out the drywall before I order the doors to make sure there aren't any new surprises and so I can rewire the light out front to split into two over each door. Definitely going to take your advice on that

As for the header weight, at the moment that is my biggest concern. I have a couple neighbors I hope that can help for that part!
 
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