Increase your wire size!

[sca037]

Here's an article that suggests going up in wire size for long term savings:

http://www.handymanwire.com/articles/wiresize.html

I did this in the garage by running #12 wire for all my lights & outlets, even though they're on 15 amp breakers. Yeah, pulling #12 and making the in-box connections is more of a pain in the *ss than using #14, but the initial cost isn't much more & I'm gonna be here forever so figured it would be worth it in the long run.

Brian

 

[byrdman]

So the savings is from reducing voltage loss across a run? How does this save money?

I guess if you have full voltage at your fixtures, fewer fixtures are required? Is that it?

 

[sca037]

So the savings is from reducing voltage loss across a run? How does this save money?

I guess if you have full voltage at your fixtures, fewer fixtures are required? Is that it?

I think the entire savings comes from greater efficiency (lower losses and less voltage drop) over time.

Brian

 

[erok01]

Good info. Electric gets ran this weekend for me, nice timing! Off to wire a garage.

 

[OH-MAN]

Good info. Electric gets ran this weekend for me, nice timing! Off to wire a garage.

I did this in my previous garage. If you have a lot of items in a box try to use a deep one as making all the connections can get tough in a tight space.

 

[TOO Z MAXX]

Here is my .02.
If the runs are not that long you will not save money from voltage drop.
Always use deep boxes. Run #12 wire to all outlets and use a 20 amp breaker. For lighting a 15 amp breaker and #14 wire is more than enough.
Always use copper wiring

 

[TOO Z MAXX]

One other thing, Did you see who wrote that article. People selling copper.

 

[avsfan733]

12 gauge is more than sufficient its porbably not much of a saving unless your in the garage 24-7 but if you end up with only 2-3 breakers per garage it'll more then likely end up saving you some trips to the box

 

[BetterDays]

When I purchased my home, it had 1 15A breaker for the garage. After tripping that several times, I decided to upgrade:

12/2 and 12/3 wires
1 20A breaker - lights (currently 9 fluorescents). Wired in outlets, so I have additional outlets if ever needed.....
1 20A breaker - dedicated outlet (compressor, welder)
1 20A breaker - other outlets

20x20 garage, detached.

 

[Baketech]

So the savings is from reducing voltage loss across a run? How does this save money?

Also less wire heating (direct energy loss).....

 

[Kevin54]

All I have ever ran was #12. I also think that was the norm for awhile then they decided to downsize to #14. At least in all the homes in our area.All the homes around that were built back in the late 50's - late 60's had #12. Somewhere after that they switched to #14. Then they came out with the outlets that the wire just plugs into the back. For a production line type of wiring that is fine, but I prefer to have heavier gage and the wire screwed to the outlets. Also with the heavier gage you have th eoption of adding to the circuit without the fear of overloading. Code also used to call for 15 amp outlets but now calls for 20 amp outlets, so heavier gage just seems natural. It is only a few more dollars a roll but just knowing you are one notch up the ladder in safety is well worth the money. I am also the type of person that when it comes to something that is buttoned up behind a wall, that is a pain to ever get to without some major work, go one more step.When running the wire thru studs, always make sure you use nail plates too. I'd like to have a dollar for everytime someone was either too lazy or too tight to get them and said that it is not needed because "I'll remember where I ran the wire / plumbing" and then drove a nail or screw thru it. You drive a screw thru either one and you have some work ahead of you.

Kevin

 

[muddy]

I will just speak on efficiency.........my electrician buddy in missouri put me in a nice system. When I built my shop, we put a 400 amp service panel on back of house, split 200 into house and 200 into shop with another 100 amp disconnect and I did run all 12 guage wire per his recommendation. I had a dozen eight foot lights with daylight bulbs....ran my welder,air compressor all quite often as I spent many hours every day out there.
He told me ahead of time if we did a little overkill and made it more efficient then I would notice a big savings.......the service panel in the house was old is why we put new in there. Bottom line, my electric bill pretty much stayed the same as it always was even after the additional shop use so I'm a firm believer in doing overkill on an electrical setup.....I'm afraid I won't get to go so elaborate up here,though, as money will be tight..........but I'm gonna try.........Keith

 

[TOMWELDS]

Here is my .02.
If the runs are not that long you will not save money from voltage drop.
Always use deep boxes. Run #12 wire to all outlets and use a 20 amp breaker. For lighting a 15 amp breaker and #14 wire is more than enough.
Always use copper wiring

This is how we have been wiring houses for years. Elsewhere, someone wrote "its code to wire outlets only with #12". Not true. It's a better job, but code allows #14 with a 15amp brkr for outlets. Also, when planning a wiring job, think about the future. There are so much electronics and appliances. Above all, make sure you have a good grounding system in your house.

 

[TOO Z MAXX]

This is how we have been wiring houses for years. Elsewhere, someone wrote "its code to wire outlets only with #12". Not true. It's a better job, but code allows #14 with a 15amp brkr for outlets. Also, when planning a wiring job, think about the future. There are so much electronics and appliances. Above all, make sure you have a good grounding system in your house.

Thats how I wire most of the jobs I do unless they want 12 gauge for lighting circuits. 14 gauge wire for outlets is really not a good idea, but like you said it is code and will pass. One think about 14 gauge wire is it is very easy to work with.

 

[ranger_dood]

12-2 is a ****** to unwind, isn't it? I hate working w/ the stuff... I usually end up with multiple twists as I staple it down, as I just can't get it to lay flat all the time. I always staple on the flat part, though...

 

[bmwpower]

12-2 is a ****** to unwind, isn't it? I hate working w/ the stuff... I usually end up with multiple twists as I staple it down, as I just can't get it to lay flat all the time. I always staple on the flat part, though...

12/2 is tough to deal with.

It's easier to deal with if you unwind it prior to pulling the wire:

Grab the roll and unwind enough to lay the end flat on the floor. Walk on the wire as you unwind it - this helps keep the wire flat. Unwind enough for your particular run.

I did 95% of my garage in 12/2. Probably around 900 feet total.

 

[bdaz442]

I really went overboard. I installed a 200 AMp Service. I Have twelve 20 amp plugs, and on two runs of #10/3.
Two runs of # 12/3 for nine 4' x 2' four bulb florescents. One run of 12/3 for three 8'
Florescents. And One run for a Single 100 watt bulb inside and two Motion Detector
Lighs out side. One each, 10/3 for the Compressor, welder, Air conditioner, and Oven.
I'm not runnibg out of power... LOL

 

[byrdman]

I don't think that's overkill. (Well, maybe the 10/3 for receptacles is a bit large)You're probably like me where everybody TELLS you it's overkill though. People that aren't into this kind of stuff think you're crazy.

 

[bdaz442]

I don't think that's overkill. (Well, maybe the 10/3 for receptacles is a bit large)You're probably like me where everybody TELLS you it's overkill though. People that aren't into this kind of stuff think you're crazy.

WOW!! My wife tells me I'm crazy. Everytime I log on to E-Bay.