Hi Fellas, I have one of those 220V 60-gal Compressor from Lowes. I forget the stock inner diameter size but I wanted to use a larger inner diameter flex house, like a 3/4" size. My air tools seem to lack umph to keep running. Anyone ever change out their compressor flex hose? Thanks.
Increasing Output Port Diameter On 60-gal Compressor?
- Thread starter Aeroman
- Start date
http://www.airtxinternational.com/recommended-air-hoses.htm
I would reconsider the size of the air hose for being the reason for losing pressure...at 1/2" hose you would be losing 2 psi on a 50' hose. That is rubber hose.
My guess is the reason your tools lack the power to "keep running" is because you are running out of AIR, not pressure.
I would reconsider the size of the air hose for being the reason for losing pressure...at 1/2" hose you would be losing 2 psi on a 50' hose. That is rubber hose.
My guess is the reason your tools lack the power to "keep running" is because you are running out of AIR, not pressure.
Higgins
Well-known member
As I recall, the port size in the bung on that tank is 3/8" of an inch. I don't know if changing it to 1/2" would help??
Thanks for the replies. I recall awhile back someone converting to a larger port (3/4") and using a bigger diameter flex hose. But now that you mention it, it makes sense that a bigger hose will produce lower psi but just increase volume. I think I said that right lol.
Thanks for the replies. After reviewing my set up, I do have that standard 3/8" port. I would have sworn I read in this forum where someone converted their compressor to accept a rubber flex hose with 1.25" ID x 1.75" OD. They even listed the McMaster part number as 5304K46. The idea was to increase volume in the lines. I plan to use that 3/4" RapidAir kit and plumb my garage. Here are some pics:
Sounds like you're artificially starving tools from flow/pressure by setting air compressor regulator too low.
I'd recommend you build air line system (ie black pipe steel) and get full 140 psi right next to where your air tool is going to be used (thus turn up regulator at compressor to 140 psi). Then air line drop by tool can have say 100 psi regulator and your 90 psi tool will likely not be starved for air anymore (unless of course you're sand blasting or something beyond the capability of the air compressor anyway).
I'd recommend you build air line system (ie black pipe steel) and get full 140 psi right next to where your air tool is going to be used (thus turn up regulator at compressor to 140 psi). Then air line drop by tool can have say 100 psi regulator and your 90 psi tool will likely not be starved for air anymore (unless of course you're sand blasting or something beyond the capability of the air compressor anyway).
kc-steve
Well-known member
Something doesn't add up here. I have a smaller 5hp CH with a reducer out the tank from 3/4" to 1/2" going to black steel pipe for cooling to remove moisture from the system. That protects your tools. And I have never had any issues.
I have a tank pressure gauge (135psi) and an output pressure gauge and set it to 90-100 psi. I don't like to set the output pressure too high. If you only have one gauge then maybe it's a tank gauge to be set at 135psi. What does your operator's manual say?
My inclination would be to call CH product service and see what they say. It might be a warranty issue. It does point to the compressor system because you are using different tools reacting the same way. Right?
Steve
I have a tank pressure gauge (135psi) and an output pressure gauge and set it to 90-100 psi. I don't like to set the output pressure too high. If you only have one gauge then maybe it's a tank gauge to be set at 135psi. What does your operator's manual say?
My inclination would be to call CH product service and see what they say. It might be a warranty issue. It does point to the compressor system because you are using different tools reacting the same way. Right?
Steve
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kc-steve
Well-known member
One more thing . . . have you ever drained the water from the bottom of the tank?
Steve
Steve
firebox40dash5
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If you've got a 3/8" output and you're using a 3/8" hose with 1/4" fittings, then you're probably limiting it somewhat. Probably not going to help much going bigger than 1/2" with 3/8" fittings. And like CNG said, move and/or crank up your regulator. Having it set at 95psi right by the compressor means that everything downstream is getting just enough air to keep 95psi with very little flow, and when you use more air than the regulator can supply, you're getting a SERIOUS pressure drop. Honestly, our 150psi compressor at work doesn't even have a reg, just a filter/drier setup, and it hasn't caused any issues. It is bottlenecked there, and one of my "around to it" projects is to replace the 1/4" fittings and 3/8" hose I used to get the shop up and running with larger fittings (pretty much everything had to be reduced from 1/2" or 3/8" NPT anyway) and hose to keep the flow up.
budss396
Well-known member
if you look at the side where the hose comes out you will find out that it has a hex about 2 1/2 " around the 3/8" connection. This is a reducing bushing 1 1/2x3/8 read one and one half by three eights. all you do is pull that bushing and install one with the output size you want.
this may help with your problem but be aware that your compressor is rated at a fixed CFM meaning it will only fill the compressor at a certain cfm. certain air tools like DA's and Die grinders take alot of cfm 16-25. if after changing the hose size if you are still running out of air you might pick up another compressor and manifold them together. it can be a smaller compressor just make sure it has the same output pressure
this may help with your problem but be aware that your compressor is rated at a fixed CFM meaning it will only fill the compressor at a certain cfm. certain air tools like DA's and Die grinders take alot of cfm 16-25. if after changing the hose size if you are still running out of air you might pick up another compressor and manifold them together. it can be a smaller compressor just make sure it has the same output pressure
1320stang
Well-known member
What Bud said ^^^
sberry
Banned
No, a bigger hose may actually use more air, give a little more power but less resistance. I would hook 3/8 hose to a piece or 2 of 1/2 pipe, to where you want the central station to a regulator. A short piece of 3/8 jumper wont mean squat, only time a bigger hose is needed is big air impacts, truck tire shop. Turn it up a bit for more power.
Making a top end of 135 by the time you got it down a hose reel 25 or 50 ft of 3/8 would be near 90 with 6 inch DA and maybe 1/2 air gun?? Somewhere in there.
Making a top end of 135 by the time you got it down a hose reel 25 or 50 ft of 3/8 would be near 90 with 6 inch DA and maybe 1/2 air gun?? Somewhere in there.
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sberry
Banned
No, a bigger hose may actually use more air, give a little more power but less resistance. I would hook 3/8 hose to a piece or 2 of 1/2 pipe, to where you want the central station to a regulator. A short piece of 3/8 jumper wont mean squat, only time a bigger hose is needed is big air impacts, truck tire shop. Turn it up a bit for more power.
This one reg feeds 3 reels and 2 whips. Easy to add. Have even subtracted a couple hydrants over the years we didnt use and I wanted to engineer the choice out of. Likely since modified.
This one reg feeds 3 reels and 2 whips. Easy to add. Have even subtracted a couple hydrants over the years we didnt use and I wanted to engineer the choice out of. Likely since modified.
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sberry
Banned
I have 2 or 3 regs that feed5 drops that do 95% of the work. Once in a while use that cheap retracter from Walmart to air up a tire or sand a little and the small retractor is for paint gun with little extra filter and its own addtional reg.
A a matter of practice I dont care much what reel as long as there is one. It pushes discipline. Its not really a big deal to hang a hose up but it seems they are always on the floor unless they are specifically enginnered whips. I actually like a manual fine, the rapid air style with a 50 ft hose on a hundred foot reel.
A a matter of practice I dont care much what reel as long as there is one. It pushes discipline. Its not really a big deal to hang a hose up but it seems they are always on the floor unless they are specifically enginnered whips. I actually like a manual fine, the rapid air style with a 50 ft hose on a hundred foot reel.
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454ragtop
Well-known member
Try your tools without the regulator at all, good chance that's the restriction. That compressor doesn't put out enough pressure to bother anything. Likely once you start using whatever tool, the pressure will fall off as the compressor tries to keep up.
HTH, Jim
HTH, Jim
will do, I like the idea!
Thanks. I think I am going to simply leave it alone and go with the RapidAir 1/2. My main tools stem from airbrush to HF Sandblasting cabinet /DI grinder. I should be fine with that. I plan to move in about a year or so and want something I can take with me.
Lurker
Well-known member
FYI: Tank Bushings are available here
http://www.pexsupply.com/pex/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=tank bushing
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