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Induction heater......

cherokee

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Mar 2, 2010
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980
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Kansas City MO
I had seen these things for years, we all know the meme.

1687948805830.png

In getting the blades off my little zero turn I went from #1 to #3 in one step. Started to round off the bolt. Oh no not good. Mower is still on the ground so Step #4 is out, and step 5, well there is lots of old grass under there, and while some folk like burning grass for some of the effects it gives you I am not one of them.

Then it hits me I have one of those little induction heater things, wonder if that will work.

A few years ago I bought one for use on some leaf spring bolts, note to future self, even if there is no fire, the rubber on the leaf spring eyes will still smoke like a MF and stink your shop for days. Yes I am a special kind of stupit.

I get this thing out to use for like the 4th time, put it on there, little smoke, stop socket and nothing, not going. Put the heater back on it again, starts to really smoke, I wonder about the grease in the spindles, don't worry there is a grease fitting on there that looks like it has been plugged up when Carter was in office. Wonder if that will come out. Really smoking now, starting to turn color. Ratchet #1 and it comes right off, no drama at all. Well hell this thing is really slick. Middle spindle is also no drama, then the spindle on the left side. Hit the heater, try it nothing. Now it will not turn back on. Between thinking well cheap chinese **** off amazon, then I feel the thing, (Had gloves on at the time) wow hot. It has a fan, but I wonder if it thermal shutdown. Let it sit for a few minutes, fool with other things, yup works again, put it on there again. Nothing. Why is it always the last bolt. One more time. This time on there for a good 3:38min, how do I know? I put it on there for this entire song.


Ratchet #1 still nothing. Ok back to bar #3. Remember next time that the socket will be a bit warm (never put gloves back on) push button on Ratchet #1, use screw driver to turn socket over, then push bar #3 onto socket, one last check of righty tighty leftie loosie, and SQUEEK, and it turned. Yeppie, no grinding, no drilling, no taping, the sucker is out, and I can even re use the bolt, oh happy days.

Now if you waded through all that, a question.

Cheapo amazon induction heater, the "coils" have like this insulation on them. It is starting to come off the one I use the most, the insulation. Is this a bad thing, if the only reason for the insulation is to keep me from burning myself, I will not worry about it, that does not work at all. So why the insulation, and should I toss this "winding".
1687949657141.png
 
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Innovate1

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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
You will have trouble if the turns short to one another. Could be some arcing at the short, not heating what you want and maybe even damaging the driver circuit. If it just touches the part you are heating in one spot it PROBABLY isn't a problem - I would expect the coil to be isolated from the input power but who knows on the cheap stuff. If not isolated it's a shock hazard. Induction heaters are slick - might have to look up what's available. Which one did you get?
 
OP
C

cherokee

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Joined
Mar 2, 2010
Messages
980
Location
Kansas City MO
You will have trouble if the turns short to one another. Could be some arcing at the short, not heating what you want and maybe even damaging the driver circuit. If it just touches the part you are heating in one spot it PROBABLY isn't a problem - I would expect the coil to be isolated from the input power but who knows on the cheap stuff. If not isolated it's a shock hazard. Induction heaters are slick - might have to look up what's available. Which one did you get?

This one.

@Shortbuscandid8
Thanks for that link, it would be easy to re wrap this one that has it flaking off.....

Thanks again.
 

RPH

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Dec 17, 2006
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4,190
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Michigan Thumb
I worked this industry as a factory service engineer. Use 3M fiberglass tape, comes in different widths, yes be aware of shorting the windings. Coils are easily made for induction heating purposes.
 

Relax

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Nov 22, 2011
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GTA, Ontario
This is what I put on the coils I make for mine out of 10ga. wire.
I think you could probably just put it over your existing wire.

I think this is the answer I was looking for when trying to figure out how to make my own coils. I have one of these tools which only came with three sizes of the traditional coils, and I'd like to make some additional ones in different sizes as well as a "pad" to hold next to something that I can't wrap around. Would this grounding wire work?

 

zendriver

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Dec 10, 2014
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Indiana
Too lazy to search for it again, but it seemed when I did somewhere someone sells small rolls of thick copper wire, insulated with the same material induction bolt heaters use.

Looked like replacements “coils” would be fairly easy to make, maybe even DIY designs for use in odd tight areas.
 

dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
This is what I put on the coils I make for mine out of 10ga. wire.
I think you could probably just put it over your existing wire.
Supposed to used nickel plated wire with insulations like these

Bryne Mica High Temperature Wire -60~450 Degree C,Strands of Nickel plated copper wire,Insulation by Mica and Fiberglass,used in harsh environments (AWG12 10Ft) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VZ9VM12/?tag=atomicindus04-20

Or
Litz wire with "appropriate" heat insulation
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
I'm not an inductive heater engineer nor do I claim to be one.

However, I've had a bolt buster 2 for several years. Many coils have no insulation left on the business end due to contact with glowing fasteners. I notice no issues with performance, nor issues with my tool.
 

djbmw

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Jun 20, 2013
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Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
You should never run the tool for more than 120 seconds at a time. You also should always "hover" the coil and try as best you can to not touch anything with it. If the fiberglass insulating wrap starts to fall apart then buy some more, cut to length, and re-wrap the copper to ensure longevity of your tool and proper function.
 

Relax

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Nov 22, 2011
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441
Location
GTA, Ontario
Maybe this is a dumb question, but I had to order 50' of 3/8" SUR&R nickel copper brake tubing to get it by tomorrow for a brake job. Is this stuff suitable for making coils?
 

Mark_17

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Jun 27, 2018
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NJ
Copper is the best material for a coil, to be more specific, oxygen free copper - Alloy 101 or 102
 

ching0n

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Jul 21, 2016
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I'm not an inductive heater engineer nor do I claim to be one.

However, I've had a bolt buster 2 for several years. Many coils have no insulation left on the business end due to contact with glowing fasteners. I notice no issues with performance, nor issues with my tool.
are the coils touching each other or do you keep an air gap between them?
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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are the coils touching each other or do you keep an air gap between them?

I try to keep an air gap, sometimes they do touch after being wedged into an area. Nature of the beast. They still work even if multiple coils are touching. I'm sure there's an efficiency loss, I just hold the button longer. I don't use it more than 30 seconds.

The tool is typically limited by size of the workpiece, being able to input enough energy to do the job before it bleeds away into the mass of the item and its surroundings.
 
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