Induction Tool to Break Rusted Fasteners Loose

[oldtimehockey]

Hi GJ'ers...I'm starting to do some research on those induction tools that are used heaktup to break rusted fasteners loose for removal. So far, I've been looking at Induction Innovations (Mini-Ductor) and the Bolt Buster BB2X models. Do any of you have experience with these tools or willing to send along your recommendations...??? Thank you for your time.

 

[zendriver]

If you don't mind imports, I have a "hot rod" that gets the job done, "now under $200".

Not sure about the value of a higher watt units, unless using it on very large fasteners. Red hot is red hot.

 

[decableguy2000]

I got the bolt buster a few moths ago. No complaints. Used it on some nasty 22 year old exhaust bolts. I'll be using again tomorrow to make a custom 10mm wrench.

 

[oldtimehockey]

Thanks Guys...I've been leaning towards the Bolt Buster...The Mini-Ductor is just not in the budget for my needs. If I boughtt the Mini-Ductor it would be "Buy once and cry a lot more than once"...Unless I find a wicked good deal. I do prefer a Made in USA unit. Cheers...!!!

 

[Relax]

If you don't mind imports, I have a "hot rod" that gets the job done, "now under $200".

Not sure about the value of a higher watt units, unless using it on very large fasteners. Red hot is red hot.

I also have the Hot Rod from Solary. Bought it in 2023 from Amazon Warehouse as "Used - Acceptable" because I wasn't confident it would work as advertised and was fully expecting to return it, but it exceeded my expectations. Came with 3 fixed coils which have worked on any automotive fastener head I've needed, but I eventually want to try the flexible coils that you can wrap around something that the coil can't reach (like the middle of a Subaru ball joint pinch bolt). Every time I use it I smile and ask myself why I didn't grab it earlier.

 

[The Metric System]

I also have the Hot Rod from Solary. Bought it in 2023 from Amazon Warehouse as "Used - Acceptable" because I wasn't confident it would work as advertised and was fully expecting to return it, but it exceeded my expectations.

I had the same experience with the same tool. I wasn't expecting much, and was pleasantly surprised to find that it works well and is extremely handy in situations where it's relevant.

I wouldn't pay a premium for a name brand or higher wattage, my 1,200W cheapie does anything I ask of it no problem.

 

[finn]

I bought a $150 generic 1300 watt Amazon induction heater this spring. No issues so far, and it works as I expected.

I really don’t see any advantage to spending more than that on such a simple tool.

I’ve used it a lot more than I expected, but I’m a hobby guy, not a 40 hr per week mechanic.

 

[drmarkr]

Well ****....there's one small (or so) I didn't plan to spend today....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6MT5KC9?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Hakeem]

I have the same generic induction heater as pictured here and it’s been just fine for me. Doesn’t get big (like >19mm) fasteners red hot but still gets them hot enough to loosen them. I got the Amazon extra warranty just in case but havent needed it.

The mini ductor works much faster but for 5-6x the price I don’t think the value is there unless you’re a professional.

 

[zendriver]

As much people like to buy stuff they rarely use, I’m surprised everyone who does have to deal with Rusty bolts doesn’t already have one.

 

[Beerhippie]

I'm tempted to buy one every time I read one of these threads.

Then I recall that I live in the Intermountain West. Here's to aridity and little or no salt.

 

[finn]

As much people like to buy stuff they rarely use, I’m surprised everyone who does have to deal with Rusty bolts doesn’t already have one.

I’m in the center of the rust universe and, until this spring, justified NOT buying one because I have an oxy acetylene torch setup.

Finally accepted the fact, that, given there’s no exposed flame, perhaps the induction heater MIGHT be safer.

After using it once, I now kick myself for not getting one sooner.

No open flame, no empty gas bottles on Friday night, no trips to the welding store, no lifting the bottles into the truck, no hoses to drag around….


Edit: Don’t get the idea that I have only used it once. It’s at the point that if there’s any question re is a fastener going to be a problem, I drag the induction heater out proactively and pour the coals to the suspect bolt.

 

[mreisner]

I have the Mini ductor, have had it for 3 years now and it has worked fantastic. What's the price of acetylene today it's almost expensive not having one.

 

[Pontiac787]

Well ****....there's one small (or so) I didn't plan to spend today....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6MT5KC9?tag=atomicindus08-20

I wonder how this unit compares to the Hot Rod? It’s a great price but I’m wondering if it’s worth coughing up the extra $40.

 

[drmarkr]

I wonder how this unit compares to the Hot Rod? It’s a great price but I’m wondering if it’s worth coughing up the extra $40.

It arrived this morning....just need a chance to try it out. Which is not going to be as often in Tucson, as some of you poor midwest/NE saps, lol!

 

[rust in the eye]

I'm tempted to buy one every time I read one of these threads.

Then I recall that I live in the Intermountain West. Here's to aridity and little or no salt.

Yeah, rub it in.

 

[Relax]

Yeah, rub it in.

You think that's bad, watch one of many Subaru wheel bearing or ball joint jobs on the South Main Auto youtube channel, then watch one on on the MrSubaru channel.

 

[rust in the eye]

You think that's bad, watch one of many Subaru wheel bearing or ball joint jobs on the South Main Auto youtube channel, then watch one on on the MrSubaru channel.

I avoid working on Japanese cars like venereal disease

 

[lund]

I avoid working on Japanese cars like venereal disease

In my limited experience in the rust belt with only DIY family cars:

Subaru's are surreal bad with corrosion locking on wheel bearing flanges. It is hard to believe for a "snow car" they do not add a little anti-seize in the factory on these surfaces. I guess it saves 0.1 cent for their profit while generating surreal problems for their customers who keep cars beyond 100k ish miles.

Toyota Tacoma frames from ~2000 ish and younger are surreal bad with rust and if you do not keep treating them with lanolin-type sealers the vehicle will essentially fall apart over alarmingly short times.

The Honda Civic crank pulley bolt gets junction corrosion welded on top of being very high torque to begin with and can be surreal hard (especially for a small vehicle) to break off when replacing the timing belt etc. Whole forums discuss dealing with this monster.

But I don't think most mechanical/supension stuff is dramatically different on Japanese production/design cars relative to USA and other models. Rust happens in the rust belt. You need to regularly power wash the engines and underbodies if you keep the vehicles for long.

 

[mreisner]

I avoid working on Japanese cars like venereal disease

It looked clean on the lot and the test drive was good, but now 3 weeks later something is starting to drip....

 

[kngelv]

I want one. Is it worth getting the Bolt Buster? Any other USA brands?

James

 

[rust in the eye]

Rust happens in the rust belt.

Granted. The quality of the steel used for the fasteners seems to be what makes the difference. The Japanese stuff I see, mostly Toyota, rots and swells and is not sufficiently strong to endure the forces needed to remove them. Much moreso than the other crusty **** I regularly work on.

 

[rust in the eye]

Toyota Tacoma frames from ~2000 ish and younger are surreal bad with rust and if you do not keep treating them with lanolin-type sealers the vehicle will essentially fall apart over alarmingly short times.

Did a fuel tank on a Tundra which had the frame patches applied. Swept up a few pounds worth of rust flakes after that job. See my screen name.

 

[FTG-05]

Well ****....there's one small (or so) I didn't plan to spend today....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6MT5KC9?tag=atomicindus08-20

I bought the same one yesterday; it arrives tomorrow. One stuck bolt removed = good purchase.

 

[finn]

I want one. Is it worth getting the Bolt Buster? Any other USA brands?

James

No, not in my opinion.

I have an import, and it does the job just fine. I haven’t seen any complaints on the imports, either..

It’s just a political decision, which is ok by me, too.

 

[lund]

Granted. The quality of the steel used for the fasteners seems to be what makes the difference. The Japanese stuff I see, mostly Toyota, rots and swells and is not sufficiently strong to endure the forces needed to remove them. Much moreso than the other crusty **** I regularly work on.

Older Toyota's had a severe problem with steel used in their frames de-laminating with corrosion. It was something about the metallurgy of what Toyota was using through 2000 ish. This could cause rapid frame failures. I think they addressed this in more recent years and also became better at sealing things. But yeah, it was a BIG problem for their vehicles used in the rust belt and their reputation took a well deserved ding from that significant issue.

I am a big fan of using lanolin sprays to seal metal underneath. Not fluid film (washes off too easy unless in cavities where it is shielded) but a CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor that is also lanolin-based but dries/cures harder making it last longer with road spray. IF you use something like that early in the car's life cycle and touch it up now and then, it can mitigate rust problems (even on Toyotas!) dramatically.

You can use CRC type lanolin sprays over light rust also (remove flaky stuff) and it helps a LOT too. But it is much much better to coat before problems start on a relatively clean washed bottom. It is a pain doing but it saves a lot of grief later if you keep vehicles a long time.

 

[Beerhippie]

Yeah, rub it in.

No problem!

 

[tak1313]

I got a Bolt Buster on sale a few years ago when people were reporting that the Chinese copycats were problematic (though I assume they're much better now), and the Mini-Ductor was to crazy in price for DIY.

It worked great the one time I wanted it for for a stuck nut on a rusty Prius. Instructions say you DON'T want to get things red hot.

I haven't had another need for it yet. We since got rid of the Prius because the rear knuckle broke off the rear axle assemble (because the welds had rusted enough to weaken the assembly). Interestingly, you couldn't tell it was that bad because the rust started from the INSIDE. When it happened, my wife was just moving it in the driveway, but the day before we had just driven to Ikea in Stoughton, MA (175 miles round trip - we live in NH). It had even passed inspection a month before.

I was concerned about eventual burn through of the braided covering, and at the time got a length of higher temp braiding to use in the eventuality of the covering burning through.

 

[Nutria]

I don't have any experience with other units, but this has worked like magic for me:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FJ1HSBL5?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Beerhippie]

Aaaand... here's the exact same question posted back in May:

Looking at an induction heater

I'm working on a project that would benefit from some localized heat. I'm looking at some induction heaters and can't decide on which one. Random Amazon brand, the " Mini Ductor II" or a bolt buster "BB2-acc" and bb2x-acc. This will be a seldom used item.

www.garagejournal.com

I'm sure there has been about one a month since these hit the market.