I got the same unit delivered yesterday. Curious on how it performs, I tested it on an oversized 7/16" fastener (about 1" from flat to flat). In about 5 seconds the metal discolored and the oil on the nut started to smoke. It was quite hot, too hot to touch. I'd guess that you got a defective or a returned unit.I ordered one that arrived today. It came in a rather important looking metal case missing two of the elements listed in the instructions.
I dragged Mrs. Rust into the shop after explaining how these work. Sensing my enthusiasm she follwed me out to watch me attempt to heat an exhaust manifold pipe flange nut. After a couple of minutes she asks "Is somthing supposed to be happening?" This pretty much sealed the fate for this big clunky, underpowered device.
Perhaps Sr. Bezos will find a use for it on his yacht or Gulfstream as he's getting it back.
Induction Tool to Break Rusted Fasteners Loose
- Thread starter oldtimehockey
- Start date
Agreed. I don’t have the same brand but the model has an identical form factor and it definitely works. Double check the setup (ie: make sure the coil is properly installed) and if it’s still not working, return for an alternate.
I ordered one that arrived today. It came in a rather important looking metal case missing two of the elements listed in the instructions.
I dragged Mrs. Rust into the shop after explaining how these work. Sensing my enthusiasm she follwed me out to watch me attempt to heat an exhaust manifold pipe flange nut. After a couple of minutes she asks "Is somthing supposed to be happening?" This pretty much sealed the fate for this big clunky, underpowered device.
Perhaps Sr. Bezos will find a use for it on his yacht or Gulfstream as he's getting it back.
A caution: You need to test/use these primarily on ferrous metals like steel. If you use it on a stainless or bronze nut, it likely will not be very effective due to the magnetic coupling being much weaker resulting in less heating action. Eddy currents still exist in non-ferrous metals, but an oscillating magnetic field driving around the hysteresis loop of a magnetic material like steel adds a lot of additional heating that is likely needed. I suspect these will not work well on stainless and bronze.
If you tested on ferrous steel, then nevermind: it is likely defective.
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kbeefy
Well-known member
Diesel.
Keep in mind too it’s important to use (or make) the right size coil for the size of fastener you are applying it to
The coil does not heat the fastener - induction does and I believe it works best, to have like a quarter inch or so gap between the coil and the fastener so that magnetism can do its thing.
When I had to wrap a wire around a brake line fitting to a caliper, I cut a piece of rubber hose long ways put it over the connector and then wrap the wire around that removing it before use.
The coil does not heat the fastener - induction does and I believe it works best, to have like a quarter inch or so gap between the coil and the fastener so that magnetism can do its thing.
When I had to wrap a wire around a brake line fitting to a caliper, I cut a piece of rubber hose long ways put it over the connector and then wrap the wire around that removing it before use.
I remember smirking at the "FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY" on my BB when I first got it (I'm just DIY).I won one at a SEMA show giveaway. I've always thought they were cool (I think thats why I 'won' the giveaway).
Every now and then I find a use for it.
Like is that supposed to be marketing hype or something to make DIYers feel special about buying a "pro" tool?
Anyone use one of these for brake bleeder screws?
I tried to take off the two rear bleeder screws on my 96 Pathfinder and I could feel the 8mm wrench box end starting to round off the hex head without the screw moving not one bit.
I tried to take off the two rear bleeder screws on my 96 Pathfinder and I could feel the 8mm wrench box end starting to round off the hex head without the screw moving not one bit.
I won one at a SEMA show giveaway. I've always thought they were cool (I think thats why I 'won' the giveaway).
Every now and then I find a use for it.
Two comments on this application: I am not sure it is a good idea to use an induction heater on a fuel line if that is what this is. Also, if the metal you are using an induction heater on is non-magnetic (stainless or brass/bronze) it will not couple as strongly to heat (maybe better if you really insist on using on a fuel line ...).
Anyone use one of these for brake bleeder screws?
I tried to take off the two rear bleeder screws on my 96 Pathfinder and I could feel the 8mm wrench box end starting to round off the hex head without the screw moving not one bit.
Might work if the bleeder is steel. But if the bleeder is that hard to remove and corroded, it should probably be replaced and coat the new one with grease and a cap. If you are going to trash it most anything can probably do ... vice grips etc.
Thanks. Got this model before the price went up significantly from about $110 to $210. I did some tests on some nuts and bolts. It should work well. It looks surprisingly substantial for the price. I live in Michigan and I tend to keep cars very long on our beat up and heavily salted roads with temp extremes and cycles, so it is a rust belt mecca and I think it will be useful. I use anti-seize on everything after work, but 1st time removals at this point with a 14 and 26 year old vehicles can be "fun." I dislike cutting things off and using an acetylene torch near seals, bushings, and bearings is not thrilling. This should be more controlled heating so I am optimistic it will help.
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Worked like a charm. I only had to use it on the very rusted rear bleeders. The fronts were far less rusted and far easier to get to.
I didn't get the rears red hot; just enough to get some smoke and then a bit more. Broke them loose with a ratchet then several tighten/loosen cycles so I could safely use a open end wrench.
Pathfinder be all bled out now!
My Old Tools
Well-known member
Because some of us have a torch?
A torch is great, very powerful and fast. But if you’re working near fuel/oil, or near plastic, or in confined areas that a torch can’t get to—an induction heater is a better choice.
It does work on bleeders. I usually heat them if they give any difficulty at all. If the bleeder is very bad, I usually just replace the wheel cylinder if it’s drum brakes. Caliper bleeders are more accessible, and often larger, and calipers are more expensive, so I will spend time on them. If it comes out, the bleeder itself gets replaced.
I have an OA torch setup as well, but I have not used it in years on rusty bolts (or anything really now that I have a plasma cutter, as well)
An inductive heater heats up only what you want heated up in a few seconds where as a Torch seems to want to heat/burn up the whole area, in the process.
Enjoy!
Absolutely! I have a torch too, but adds to the bag of tricks. The induction heater also has significantly more control than a torch even when you have enough access for a torch.
It is also wise, when you live in the rust belt, when you put things back together to clean things up with a wire wheel and use anti-seize on all threads at risk of corroding. You will thank yourself in the future in any repeat work! Pros might not do this so much since they need to move fast to make $ and it is not clear if they will ever see the car again. But as a DIY guy that keeps cars a loooong time in the rust belt, I do this consistently and it really helps over time (example: In Michigan you may go through a few sets of ball joints and suspension bushings in the life of a car). I also pressure wash the bottom of cars after winter and use a lanolin-type spray sealer (CRC Heavy Duty Marine Corrosion Inhibitor works great and is cheap when you buy spray cans in volume) on most everything that I can reach (including in the frame with a spray hose). The lanolin spray, together with liberal use of anti-seize, makes a dramatic difference and greatly cuts down the need for heat. But there will be inevitable stuff where heat is needed: new repairs on an old car where salt found it's way in over the years.
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finn
Well-known member
The induction heater works well as others have attested to. Be careful when using it on brake hoses, though. It will boil the brake fluid which then shoots out violently.
I haven’t used my OA torch setup since I bought the induction heater.
That seems like a common experience.
I haven’t used my OA torch setup since I bought the induction heater.
That seems like a common experience.
When I used it on my rear brake bleeders, I made sure to have the brake fluid reservoir opened up, so any hot fluid could escape out that way.
Dumber than lumber
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2015
- Messages
- 2,063
That one looks way ****! Not sure if that is a good thing.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Seems the pistol-grip and guard would limit access in tight spots.
Nutria
Well-known member
It is pretty large and clunky. That hasn't been a problem for me yet, but it'll probably be an issue at some point.
MichaelP
Well-known member
Definitely not. The look of energized induction coil may be **** and promising, but you better curb your enthusiasm.
Vinny
Well-known member
I use mine more these days to break this green loctite stuff they like to use on every fastener on some of these new cars. Helps in spots where I can't get any leverage to brute force it.
The brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay? Seems like it would be too far away to serve as a pressure relief outlet
Hokey smokes!, how long are folks leaving these on brake bleeders?
This video is having the tool less than 20 seconds. The rest of the system should not get hot enough to "boil" anything. The heat is almost completely centralized within the coil.
I used mine on rusty brake line to caliper connector, long enough for it to change color. Loosened right up.
This video is having the tool less than 20 seconds. The rest of the system should not get hot enough to "boil" anything. The heat is almost completely centralized within the coil.
I used mine on rusty brake line to caliper connector, long enough for it to change color. Loosened right up.
finn
Well-known member
I’ve had brake fittings that had to be heated cherry red to bust the corrosion bond.
I’ve had others that require no heat at al.
Depends on how bad the corrosion is.l
I’ve had others that require no heat at al.
Depends on how bad the corrosion is.l