Inexpensive Cattle Fencing?

[pmiranda]

Looking at building a shop in the fall, and until now have been letting the neighbor's cattle graze on our little acre.
What type of fencing is inexpensive to put in to keep livestock safely out of the construction site (roughly 400 linear feet) which is otherwise open to dozens of acres?
Long term, I'd probably want to keep some of the fenced area, although it sure has been nice not having to mow.

 

[Bert_]

If it's temporary some T posts and a hot wire is hard to beat.

 

[strutaeng]

Cattle panel (feedlot panel). Welded wire mesh from some concrete contractor surplus sale will also work.

Tpost as Bert mentioned...get yourself a post driver for that many posts.

 

[pmiranda]

Wire fence sounds pretty darn good to me. I know a couple local guys that could get me started. Thanks!

 

[Mdluke]

I use the **** out of these cheap posts. A cheap fence charger, a roll of wire and done. Quick and easy.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...ks-4-ft-white-step-in-fence-post?cm_vc=-10005

 

[Marctrees]

I'm not a Cowboy... but isn't barbed wire the common fencing for cattle ?

What I mean is I would assume there are reasons for that choice ?

That experience has shown it to be cost effective ?

Marc

 

[Red 17]

Electric fence probably the best here. BUT, is this a mixed herd, with calves? They will go right under a single wire. Panels with a single hot wire stood off a little from the panels would hold all sizes back.

 

[Marctrees]

We used a few "Cattle panels" as inserts for deck railings.

IIRC, they were 16' long, and approx roughly like over $2 / lin ft.

Plus posts plus labor... not cheap.

This really should be answered by folks with specifically Cattle fencing experience, like Red17 apparently.


All I know is something about "Git along little dogies,,, Git along"

Marc

 

[RPH]

High tensile steel wire, the fence that pushes back. Easy to put up, use a many strands as needed to contain and easy to run electric on it.
But why are you keeping the neighbors cattle’s contained? They should be more than willing to do this, even if you choose temporary fence for the build.

 

[NUTTSGT]

CL electric fence charger, some wire, T-posts and insulators.

 

[Marctrees]

It seems to me logical that the wire spacing is VERY important and specific to the type of animal.

Marc

 

[jumbojak]

High tensile steel wire, the fence that pushes back. Easy to put up, use a many strands as needed to contain and easy to run electric on it.
But why are you keeping the neighbors cattle’s contained? They should be more than willing to do this, even if you choose temporary fence for the build.

High tensile wire fences aren't inexpensive. In my opinion it's the best fence for keeping stock in but there's a learning curve and tooling that you need to put one up. Materials get expensive fast too.

 

[larry_g]

You also have to consider the animal. They are contained now? by what kind of fence? An animal will 'test' a new style of fencing so I would suggest that you continue to build what the animal is used to. Talk with the owner of the cattle, he/she may have something that you can use on a temporary basis.

Standard woven field fencing comes in 330' rolls and figure 10' post spacing, 33 posts plus a few wooden posts to anchor the ends and corners. If you go to https://www.redbrand.com/ they have under the resources tab a fence calculator that is perty good.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Marctrees]

Interesting story... to me anyway.

Guy nearby raises beef cattle...Has DO NOT QUOTE THIS .. NOT SURE - "Standard" 3 wire ???barbed wire fencing...

ONE specific particular cow of the herd has developed a habit of going under the lowest wire and wanders next to the highway eating the beautiful tall green grass.

ONLY one of the entire herd does this.

Escapes on a regular basis.

Get's put back in... same thing few days later.

Marc

 

[bondoo0]

Inexpensive is relative, but here's what is typically used for cattle in my area of Montana (the electric, and or single wire is used more for horses than cattle). I've put up a few miles of this.

T-posts about every 16-20 feet, and yes you will need a post pounder (basically a round piece of pipe with one end closes, and usually concrete for weight, with 2 handles on the side).

Either barbed wire (usually comes in spools that are about 1300 feet long), four or five wires on each post, I'd start with 5. If you go this route, you will need to find a way to brace the posts at the corners (typically done here with wood posts instead of T-posts and cross braces, but can be done with T-posts cut at an angle), and stretch the wire. Plus you will need to plan for gates for access, which typically require either cattle panels, or wood posts, and a gate to be constructed.

A little more expensive, but arguably less work are the cattle panels suggested above, just use those with the steel posts, it will require your steel posts to be 16' or less since it comes in 16' lengths, and a way to get it to your property. The biggest advantage of these are that you can easily open your fence for access anywhere instead of having to build/use gates in a specific spot.

 

[PugetDude]

If it's temporary, buy cattle panels. Easy to wire them to T-posts.
Sell them when construction is over, they're really popular for deck rails, especially if they are "organically weathered"

 

[theoldwizard1]

If it's temporary some T posts and a hot wire is hard to beat.

CONCUR !

If the cows have never seen a "hot wire" there is a chance they may push through it. Solar/battery powered fence chargers are reasonably priced.

 

[kbs2244]

It is your neighbors responsibility, and his money, to keep his cattle contained and out of danger.
Plus he should have the fencing already
Talk to him.

 

[m32825]

CONCUR !

If the cows have never seen a "hot wire" there is a chance they may push through it.

Or if they have seen one before, push their herd-mate through it...

 

[KEH]

Random thoughts: An electric fence charger needs to be grounded. If poorly grounded it may click on the telephone line. However, it may click for other reasons. I had issues with that and put in multiple ground rods with no help. It turned out to be the underground electric line. The power company put in a new line.

An electric fence should have the bottom wire high enough for the cows to eat under.Yes, they know when the power is on. They learn how close to get to the wire.
They will walk up to the wire and get their nose close to the wire and sense the current, or the noise the fence charger makes when sending the pulses of the current out.

Cows are not the problem with electric fences, Deer are. They will blunder into the wire and break it down, once. After they get shocked they will avoid it, until a new group of deer move it. Deer don't stay in one small ares, they travel around. An exception is probably sea island deer that are often well fed by city property owners and they probably stay around. Notice I have said probably. Eventually the island property get tired of their greenery being destroyed by the deer and refer to them as rats with antlers.

Concerning T posts: for wires under tension, a braced corner post is needed. Usually a large wooden post is user with brace posts or an H shaped arrangement of posts and braces. There are made steel brackets to use t posts for corner posts and brace t posts to mount at an angle.

Bears AFIK can be kept away by electric fences. I hope I don't have any experience with them.

KEH

 

[bob15]

Electric fence and rebar for the posts with the plastic insulators on them.

Never had any trouble with them with any wild animals including deer, but you need to remember to weedwack the grass/undergrowth or it it will get tall enough it will short the system out and remain that way it until it is cut/trimmed.

 

[gnpenning]

Several good suggestions. I would have a discussion with the owner about it. Anytime I get free grass I take care of the fencing. He may have a certain way he wants it done. Your land so it's best to have a discussion.

Cattle panels are 16' but are very flexible and need posts a minimum of every 8'. Since they are only 4' tall Lift them several inches off the ground. Cows can be very good jumpers if pushed. Plus when they feel any movement in the fence they will work it until it gives. During the spring having a place besides your fence for them to itch and rub the winter hair off is a good idea. Some like a scratch post year round.

Electric fence needs more than one strand. The deer in my area have hollow hair and don't seem to be bothered by electric fencing. In fact they keep going through the same place.

Cattle think if their head fits the rest of the body will go through as well. They are incredibly strong.

Electric fencing is a proven deterrent for bears, black and grizzly. In my area it is what the FWP recommend around food sources and backwoods camps. Don't quote me on this but I think it's a minimum of 4 strands of hot wire, don't remember spacing or height, but it is published.

Cattle that do what I call fence crawl become volunteers, for the freezer that is. Mother cows will pass this on to their calves. Once they learn how to get out you will always be fighting them. Oh by the way the volunteers for some reason taste better, especially if you had to do some winter or best clothes before going somewhere retrieveal. Even if it's just a burger cow it's very satisfying to stick a fork in it.