dolfans
Well-known member
I have some metal siding i got at the scrap yard for the garage back and side walls. What is the best ways to cut and install it? What type os screws to use. thanks
info about metal siding
- Thread starter dolfans
- Start date
Oh I'm a big fan!carhunter
Well-known member
Our builder left the job after hanging the metal siding, but he didn't trim the bottoms or garage door openings to size before installing. I tried several methods to fix his mess -
angle grinder with a thin metal cutting disc - fast, hard to guide, lots of messy little filings everywhere
circular saw with panel blade turned backwards - just about useless. Turned the blade right way and it cut better but dulled quickly
circular saw with wood ripping blade backwards - some cutting action, but just burnt the metal. Turned the right way it cuts wicked fast but shoots lots of little metal chunks, or swarf, everywhere. You'll eventually wear or tear the carbide teeth down, but its probably the best method I found.
Sawzall with metal blade - fast cutting, long lasting, hard to guide and you better have the panel on something flat and sturdy or it will just bounce everywhere.
Honestly, I ended up snapping a chalk line and cutting 75% of the metal with hand snips. You have to cut in the proper direction but its quick, silent and generally pretty easy to get a straight cut. Takes some practice though.
Screws - metal roofing supply houses sell color matched self drilling screws that have a combination sheet metal/wood thread and self sealing washer head. Local price was about $20/500 screws. The new cordless impact drivers work great with these screws.
They come in several lengths. If you're going to screw through the taller metal rib of the siding, use 2", if you screw through the flat portion, use 1-5/8".
angle grinder with a thin metal cutting disc - fast, hard to guide, lots of messy little filings everywhere
circular saw with panel blade turned backwards - just about useless. Turned the blade right way and it cut better but dulled quickly
circular saw with wood ripping blade backwards - some cutting action, but just burnt the metal. Turned the right way it cuts wicked fast but shoots lots of little metal chunks, or swarf, everywhere. You'll eventually wear or tear the carbide teeth down, but its probably the best method I found.
Sawzall with metal blade - fast cutting, long lasting, hard to guide and you better have the panel on something flat and sturdy or it will just bounce everywhere.
Honestly, I ended up snapping a chalk line and cutting 75% of the metal with hand snips. You have to cut in the proper direction but its quick, silent and generally pretty easy to get a straight cut. Takes some practice though.
Screws - metal roofing supply houses sell color matched self drilling screws that have a combination sheet metal/wood thread and self sealing washer head. Local price was about $20/500 screws. The new cordless impact drivers work great with these screws.
They come in several lengths. If you're going to screw through the taller metal rib of the siding, use 2", if you screw through the flat portion, use 1-5/8".
Mayberry Days is a big thing here. Thelma Lou lives here and some of the characters will come for that,Andy has not but did come when the highway was dedicated to him. All year long they have tours in police cars like on the show and have all kinds of business have names from the show.
brianh
Well-known member
I have been cutting my sheeting with a diamond masonry blade I bought at harbor freight originally for trimming my slab.
After going through a few 7 1/4 abrasive blades I put the diamond blade in I have cut over 30 sheets of siding and it is still going strong.
I think it was 11.00 at harbor freight.
After going through a few 7 1/4 abrasive blades I put the diamond blade in I have cut over 30 sheets of siding and it is still going strong.
I think it was 11.00 at harbor freight.
dittle fart around
Well-known member
To cut aluminum or sheet metal with the backward circular saw blade system use lots of wd-40 to cool the blade and the metal. Works great.
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Get an abrasive disk like comes in chop saws, but sized for your circular saw. Will do the job just fine.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Inside or outside?
Haven't used it yet, but a MK Morse Metal Devil 68 tooth blade is probably the better choice.
Charles
Haven't used it yet, but a MK Morse Metal Devil 68 tooth blade is probably the better choice.
Charles
green.bubbly
Well-known member
Air nibbler. $28.00 at Harbor Freight. Requires a lot of air flow so you need a decent compressor/tank. This is what I ended up using after a lot of other stuff. Will not cut a 90 degree bend but will cut anything else.
henrysgarage
Well-known member
I used a thin 6" cutoff blade on my angle grinder.
TMcCay
Well-known member
Been lurking here for a while and this is my first post. Just about to finish my new 40x40 Mueller steel building that I have been putting up by myself. Do yourself a favor and go to a welding supply store and pick up some abrasive blades for you skill saw. I tried the Yellow name brand blades sold at Lowes and let me tell you they are JUNK! Picked some (I believe they are called Radco, made in Sweden) blades at a local hardware store that carries some welding stuff and they cut forever. Got 6 sheet cuts per blade. A little quieter and easier to control than the plywood blade. Either way be sure to use Safety Glasses and Hearing Protection.
Terry
Terry
green.bubbly
Well-known member
Great advice for the eye and ear protection. My dad lost an eye when he was younger from a piece of metal getting in it. I wore my safety glasses the entire time I put up my Mueller. I was so afraid of getting something in my eye.
And yes, it is amazing how well a sheet of tin can amplify sound.