I have been researching any info on acid staining my garage floor. I seen a garage floor pic on this site that really interested me, but I cannot find the pic again. It was a tortoise shell color with swirls in it and was wondering how that person achieved the pattern. My floor is new and about a year old with a smooth power troweled surface. Some sites say to etch with muriatic acid to achieve a good amount of modeling and some say it will remove the lime and not give the full affect. I cannot find a straight answer to how to properly do the staining. Also read to use a mop with water to give accents but I what I need to know is the proper technique to achieve a good pattern. I hope you guys have some good pointers.
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Info for applying acid stain
- Thread starter Siskiwit
- Start date
Siski:
I talked with Frank from directcolors.com and got some good advice. They have a product that deals with the power troweled surfaces. Their site says to absolutely NOT acid etch the floor.
To get a tortoise shell color, most likely you'll lay the brown down on the entire floor, and they spray and swirl puddles of the darker color over the top.
We are preparing to acid stain our basement and a 500 sq. ft. finished section in our garage. So far, the best info I've received has been from directcolors.com although we have not ordered any supplies as of yet.
Tim
I talked with Frank from directcolors.com and got some good advice. They have a product that deals with the power troweled surfaces. Their site says to absolutely NOT acid etch the floor.
To get a tortoise shell color, most likely you'll lay the brown down on the entire floor, and they spray and swirl puddles of the darker color over the top.
We are preparing to acid stain our basement and a 500 sq. ft. finished section in our garage. So far, the best info I've received has been from directcolors.com although we have not ordered any supplies as of yet.
Tim
I have done a basement floor on a 14k sq/ft house with acid stain, but I'm not sure what you mean by shell effect. With this floor we used spray cans to apply the base coat (darker color), than followed right behind that with a lighter color in swirling pattern and applied that over top of of the base coat while it was still wet. Which meant the guy following behind wore cleated shoes.
Be prepared not be be able to do anything with the floor for a few weeks as I seems to take a very long time to become durable.
Sorry no pics. But it looked great. Tho, I certainly wouldn't be doing this in a garage or shop setting.
Good luck with your project, and be sure to take pics.
Ryan D
Be prepared not be be able to do anything with the floor for a few weeks as I seems to take a very long time to become durable.
Sorry no pics. But it looked great. Tho, I certainly wouldn't be doing this in a garage or shop setting.
Good luck with your project, and be sure to take pics.
Ryan D
FYI, I will be sealing and applying a layer of clear of some kind over it. From what I've read it will be almost indestructible. I like this way better than epoxy because any oil or stains that may happen will sort of blend in with the dark stain. With epoxy I am worried about the color getting scraped off or chipping.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
FYI, I will be applying a layer of clear of some kind ..... I've read it will be almost indestructible. I like this way better than epoxy...
Can you please enlighten us on this indestructible clear sealer that is better than epoxy. Thanks
aqr81
Well-known member
Reading his entire post supplies the answer to your question "because any oil or stains that may happen will sort of blend in with the dark stain." He also goes further to state his concern for the possibiltiy of damage..."With epoxy I am worried about the color getting scraped off or chipping."
He did not indicated a product was superior.
He did not indicated a product was superior.
I was referring to polyurea for the top clear coat. From what Ive read it's good stuff. Don't get me wrong I am willing to go for a clear epoxy if there is a such a thing. I just want the toughest top coat. And in my post above I meant to say that I would like to do it this way rather than epoxy for the reasons stated and not to apply that epoxy was inferior to another process.
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