Info on Radiant Tube Heater NG

[atvkid4eva]

I want to replace my vent less radiant heaters before next winter, so I figured id start collecting parts now. The shop is roughly 30'x40' with 13ft ceilings. The ceiling is drywall with blow-insulation and the walls are insulated with R-13. I want to be able to set the thermostat and leave it over the winter months. From what I've been reading, people prefer radiant tube over forced air. Thoughts on this and why so? Would I run a single radiant tube along the back wall of the shop and would that provide enough heat? What BTU range would I aim for? Also, what are some quality brands, I want something that is built to last. Thanks in advance!

 

[Suburbancharlie]

I'm not going to pretend to be "the" guy with answers, but you'll be needing much more than one pipe across the back.
I doubt that a single line around the perimeter would do the trick, unless you're south of the Mason Dixon line.
Any true winter area will require a series of loops in the pour.
Often times a low budget water heater can be sufficient for the task, as once the slab is up to temperature, its easy to maintain, provided that you have broken the connection to grade with a good 2" of foam or similar insulation.
Blown in insulation?
Man I hate that ****. Its basically pointless in my opinion.
I spent days, and hundreds of dollars to do it in my attic. I felt like a fireman, loading spray foam 2' thick at the time.
Fast forward a few years, and I've watched that 24" layer reduce to hardly covering the joists. Total disappointment.
Since, I've found Roxul, and that stuff is truly impressive!
The theory behind the heated floor is multipronged.
With heat, starting at the floor, the temperature doesn't need to be nearly as high, as compared to heating from above. Also a 6" slab is going to retain the heat quite well when properly insulated. Also heat coming from the floor will certainly ensure the entire space is warm.
Floor heat really is a blessing

 

[Bert_]

I like a radiant tube vs forced air, others on here don't but I'm not sure why.

Putting it in a corner next to the wall is often a necessary compromise unless you have 16'+ ceilings. Best case would be putting the burner end closest to the doors since that's your biggest heat loss.

 

[Buckgnarly]

My friend who does commercial HVAC got me a Robert's Gordon unit, have had it for 4 years now. It's a great compromise as I did not want the slow recovery and cost of in floor, but hate the noise of forced air.
I have it on the long end of my 24x32 with 14' ceilings.

 

[Twodawgs]

I installed a Reverber-Ray in my 30x60 with 12 ft ceilings. Upstate NY. Installed this spring and yet to hook up the gas. Bought from H-mac. They now seem to be called Northstock. I bought a model that wasn't listed on their web page.
A tube mounted at the back wall will warm the back more than the front and they tend to be hotter at the burner end of the tube. I mounted a 30 ft tube down the middle of the building, but string more toward the rear. I want the rear warmer.

 

[jptbay]

My 2nd shop now with overhead radiant. Love it.

Current shop is 30x40x12. Well insulated, but nothing crazy. Northern Ontario climate.

Have 85k BTU 2-stage, and I leave the thermostat above freezing all winter, unless I am out in the shop. Warms up in minutes.

One straight run with 20 feet of radiant pipe across the back of the shop, with the reflector angled toward the front of the shop. Never once thought I needed another run of tubing. Front of shop is very comfortable even with two overhead doors at that end.

 

[Mr onetwo]

My shop is 24 x32 with a 20 x 14 addition on the back in coastal Maine. I have a u shaped SunStar tube heater rated at 35,000 btu and it is great.Fast heat and no dust in the shop.I am going to up fire it to 45K this fall (factory approved up fire).During my career we installed a bunch of these in hangers,warehouses and other large volume spaces before the engineers fell in love with infloor, and all the customers were very happy with them.I personally prefer the top of my head to be warm and hate working on a heated floor because my feet get too hot (just me ) Detroit Radiant https://www.reverberray.com/product...MInubYz77s8QIVnmxvBB1EGgfTEAAYAiAAEgI2VvD_BwE has a really good design and install manual. Sunstar also has good design info on their site https://sunstarheaters.com/

 

[Zaxxn]

My main shop area is roughly 30x50, very well insulated, and I heat it here in CT winters with a single overhead radiant tube with 45 degree angled reflector facing the doors on the opposite wall along the 50' side.
I absolutely love the system, it's very economical to run even though I am running it on propane and the heat feels just right. No dust blowing around, you can open a bay door and close it within reasonable amount of time and not lose any substantial heat, and my machine shop that's attached to the main area but not covered by the tube heater is always nice and warm too for some reason. I seem to remember that I bought a single stage system with 60k BTU. Once the shop is up to temp, it cycles rarely. All the concrete, cars, machines, etc. seem to store a lot of that radiant heat.

--Zax

 

[josephG22]

Radiant Tubes are the way to go. They use far less energy and are more efficient for gas use too. I called Radiant Energy and they were really helpful with explaining what size heater I would need for my pole barn. I ended up hanging it myself. It meets thermostat demand perfectly and the whole space feels like it has even heat. I would give Radiant Energy a call if you are in the Michigan area. https://radiant-energy.com/

 

[AirloomDesigns]

My friend who does commercial HVAC got me a Robert's Gordon unit, have had it for 4 years now. It's a great compromise as I did not want the slow recovery and cost of in floor, but hate the noise of forced air.
I have it on the long end of my 24x32 with 14' ceilings.

So, any updates on what you like, what you don't? Fuel usage?

I'm about to install a dual stage 35k-50k 31' long unit from Re-Verber-Ray.

30x50x10 in Ohio

 

[gmcgeo]

I want to replace my vent less radiant heaters before next winter, so I figured id start collecting parts now. The shop is roughly 30'x40' with 13ft ceilings. The ceiling is drywall with blow-insulation and the walls are insulated with R-13. I want to be able to set the thermostat and leave it over the winter months. From what I've been reading, people prefer radiant tube over forced air. Thoughts on this and why so? Would I run a single radiant tube along the back wall of the shop and would that provide enough heat? What BTU range would I aim for? Also, what are some quality brands, I want something that is built to last. Thanks in advance!

Lets answer the BTU question.
keeping it at 50deg for your square ft you need 60,400 Btu output
keeping it 65 deg you need 78,520 output.

ppl i have come across do not like the tube heaters because it only heats the objects and not the air.

While the majority like the forced air units that heat the air and become more unformed heat in the entire building.

its up to you on the heat you want and what you are doing in the building.



Edit: i just realized its an old thread

 

[Buckgnarly]

So, any updates on what you like, what you don't? Fuel usage?

I'm about to install a dual stage 35k-50k 31' long unit from Re-Verber-Ray.

30x50x10 in Ohio

I would 100% go dual stage. I think mine runs too short in nit so cold, but there are times the 10x18 door is open in -20F for longer than I like, and I NEED 80k to get back. I may still talk to my buddy about changing it out, but I also might add onto the Guhrarge!

As for uneven heating, I don't get ANY of that and in no way does it feel uneven in the garage. Heating air is about as inefficient as you can get, heating objects makes way more sense because they will hold heat better. The objects then transfer heat to the air. In floor is a great example of that, but there is no way in hell I would recover on those-20 days when the door opens for a time.

I would not go with anything else and still love the tube!

 

[AirloomDesigns]

I would 100% go dual stage. I think mine runs too short in nit so cold, but there are times the 10x18 door is open in -20F for longer than I like, and I NEED 80k to get back. I may still talk to my buddy about changing it out, but I also might add onto the Guhrarge!

As for uneven heating, I don't get ANY of that and in no way does it feel uneven in the garage. Heating air is about as inefficient as you can get, heating objects makes way more sense because they will hold heat better. The objects then transfer heat to the air. In floor is a great example of that, but there is no way in hell I would recover on those-20 days when the door opens for a time.

I would not go with anything else and still love the tube!

Appreciate that feedback! Mine should be delivered tomorrow, propane will follow next week. I'm excited to spend more time in the barn