info on sheathing a roof
- Thread starter Bedrok
- Start date
are you using OSB or plywood?
looks like you are 24" on center, you will need the clips between the sheets, centered between the trusses, be sure to span at least 3 trusses with a sheet (4')
I use a 1/2 crown stapler with a 2" staple, have an antique DuoFast stapler that is contact fire, hold the trigger and bump to actuate, you can nail a sheet as fast as you can walk
and I guess you know you start at the bottom (soffit) just like most things
and some young athletic, weight-lifting guys that want to show their stamina to buck the sheets to the roof, always fun to see the 200 lb bench press guys wilt after about 50 or so sheets
just make sure everything is square and the first sheet is aligned square, leave the recommended gaps at the ends, a nail is a good gage, the clips will maintain the gap between the long edges
goes on pretty quick, up the roof 4 feet at a time
looks like you are 24" on center, you will need the clips between the sheets, centered between the trusses, be sure to span at least 3 trusses with a sheet (4')
I use a 1/2 crown stapler with a 2" staple, have an antique DuoFast stapler that is contact fire, hold the trigger and bump to actuate, you can nail a sheet as fast as you can walk
and I guess you know you start at the bottom (soffit) just like most things
and some young athletic, weight-lifting guys that want to show their stamina to buck the sheets to the roof, always fun to see the 200 lb bench press guys wilt after about 50 or so sheets
just make sure everything is square and the first sheet is aligned square, leave the recommended gaps at the ends, a nail is a good gage, the clips will maintain the gap between the long edges
goes on pretty quick, up the roof 4 feet at a time
IDASHO
Well-known member
Build yourself a platform, lay a few sheets, then have a boom or crane truck set what remaining sheets you will need up on the platform.
Saves a TON of labor, up and down the ladder. Also serves as a sweet level prep area for when you start roofing.
I built mine out of scrap siding left from building the walls. And after the sheathing was done, I relocated the platform to the house roof, and used it as a prep area to do the roof on the garage.
Saves a TON of labor, up and down the ladder. Also serves as a sweet level prep area for when you start roofing.
I built mine out of scrap siding left from building the walls. And after the sheathing was done, I relocated the platform to the house roof, and used it as a prep area to do the roof on the garage.
csp
Well-known member
The need for clips depends on the thickness and material used for the sheathing.
GarageEnvy
Well-known member
And don't have all your joints lined up. Stagger the joints. I am curious about the clips. Mine is being nailed off today. It is 7/16" and 24" spacing. The framer is not using clips and back in the day when I did this (yeah I'd definitely be the guy wilting after 50 sheets now) we never used clips. Is the point of the clip just to keep joints even (like tile spacers) or do they offer some support?
spacing and keep the sheets aligned, have seen some nice waves without them
they were required by code when I built my shop in '92, when I added on, I stick built on 16" centers and did not use them, except for some left overs for panel spacing
they were required by code when I built my shop in '92, when I added on, I stick built on 16" centers and did not use them, except for some left overs for panel spacing
Falcon67
Well-known member
I used the clips when I built in 1997 - 7/16" OSB, 24" OC. What I did for the sheathing was put up a couple of sheets at the edge of the roof, then screw some stops to the ends of the rafters that stuck up. Used that as a place to hold spare sheets.
KMR Construction
Well-known member
I like to mark 23 1/4, 48 1/4",71 1/4" on the sheet. This tells you if the trusses are square and straight
twostory
Well-known member
Stagger the sheets and use clips. The clips have several benefits and many areas require them.
If the roof joist do not line up (16 inch OC), pull/push them into the correct place before you nail the sheet. The roof joist /or/ trusses with wiggle in the middle. If you do not keep them correctly spaced (straight) before you nail the sheet, you will fight the roof joist "mis aligment" all the way to the top. (do not ask me how I know?)
If the roof joist do not line up (16 inch OC), pull/push them into the correct place before you nail the sheet. The roof joist /or/ trusses with wiggle in the middle. If you do not keep them correctly spaced (straight) before you nail the sheet, you will fight the roof joist "mis aligment" all the way to the top. (do not ask me how I know?)
scott37300
Well-known member
Good info so far. If you don't use staples make sure you at least use ring shank nails. As far as getting the sheets on the roof I always have one guy on the ground that holds the sheet standing up the long way and lift it a couple feet up and lean it against the trusses. Then re grip and grab towards the bottom and send the sheet up to a guy on the roof. Once you get the first couple sheets in place(double and triple check everything is square and the truss doesn't bow in the middle- run a string line) then you can use some roof jacks to stage the rest of the sheets. Just nail the roof jacks into the trusses about 4' apart and then set the sheeting in the roof jacks as you hoist the sheets onto the roof.
The most important parts are making sure the trusses are square and straight. This will save you a lot of headaches down the road. Like mentioned above mark the sheets and push/pull the trusses to line everything up.
The most important parts are making sure the trusses are square and straight. This will save you a lot of headaches down the road. Like mentioned above mark the sheets and push/pull the trusses to line everything up.
Mario
Well-known member
Another tip: Buy or rent a pneumatic roof nailer. Faster and easier on your arm.
Every idiot can look like a pro with those things... Even I look like a carpenter using one! haha
Every idiot can look like a pro with those things... Even I look like a carpenter using one! haha
Nope, I built mine in oct and 7/16 was fine. If I was a little older and planned on staying here forever I would of forked over the extra cash to make everything a little better, but then again I wont be living in suburbia hell when I buy/build my last home
When I heaved all my sheets onto the roof I pulled the flat bed up to the edge, loaded them from the ground onto the truck then up to the roof. None has to step a foot onto a ladder with a sheet. Ive got 10'walls and it worked like a charm
*safety reminder* If you are using air, make sure no one is inside, when you miss the truss and you will at least once, they can go right through the osb. Thats how nails end up in peoples heads
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GarageEnvy
Well-known member
*safety reminder* If you are using air, make sure no one is inside, when you miss the truss and you will at least once, they can go right through the osb. Thats how nails end up in peoples heads[/QUOTE]
This is sage advice. As one who has worked under an apparently blind (and deaf) roofer you can really hurt someone when you miss. The pros can easily walk the roof nailing at full speed. You might want to consider snapping chalk lines along the rafters to keep yourself on track. I don't know how it's done elsewhere but where I live the inspector has a long pole with a metal plate on the end. The sheathing inspection involves ramming it from the underside with the pole (especially if he sees a lot of "shiners"). Once you've done a few you can tell by the sound if you're hitting or missing.
This is sage advice. As one who has worked under an apparently blind (and deaf) roofer you can really hurt someone when you miss. The pros can easily walk the roof nailing at full speed. You might want to consider snapping chalk lines along the rafters to keep yourself on track. I don't know how it's done elsewhere but where I live the inspector has a long pole with a metal plate on the end. The sheathing inspection involves ramming it from the underside with the pole (especially if he sees a lot of "shiners"). Once you've done a few you can tell by the sound if you're hitting or missing.
We've used 2 x 4s to build an easel leaning up against the roof edge to stack/stage
the sheathing on. Stand sheets vertically on the easel and the rooftop guy can grab
the sheets and rotate them up onto the trusses. Also don't forget to allow for your
facia thickness when installing your first run of sheathing if the facia is not already
installed. I've seen inspectors require solid blocking if the ply-clips are skipped.
the sheathing on. Stand sheets vertically on the easel and the rooftop guy can grab
the sheets and rotate them up onto the trusses. Also don't forget to allow for your
facia thickness when installing your first run of sheathing if the facia is not already
installed. I've seen inspectors require solid blocking if the ply-clips are skipped.
IDASHO
Well-known member
Another tip: Buy or rent a pneumatic roof nailer. Faster and easier on your arm.
Every idiot can look like a pro with those things... Even I look like a carpenter using one! haha
I decided long ago that hammers are good for only one thing...
beating on things.
Nail guns are where it is at!
Ive got myself a good line of Senco guns. Framer, roofer, and finish. Also have a sheathing stapler, but the 8d ringshank nails seem to hold better than the staples. And using my framing gun to shoot them, depth is easier controlled with the nails than the staples.
Just be sure you have it where you want it.... cause you do NOT want to try to remove a ringshank nail!
