Inform Me About Table Saws

[iiibdsiil]

So, I'm going to be in the market for a nice table saw here one of these days. I'll be cutting mostly 3/4" MDF, but of course, I am going to want something more bad *** then I really need. What I do know is I need a big fence, looking at probably a 50" one. I'll be cutting occasional birch and some other woods, mostly 3/4".

What's the difference between left tilt and right tilt with the blades? I get the obvious, but it seems like the higher dollar ones have the left tilt.

I've been looking at the Delta's. I've always like the brand, but that's because I have a vertical band saw that was made by them, Crescent, and some other company a long time ago, and that thing is built like a tank. What other brands should I consider? My buddy has a Craftsman Pro one, looks older, compared to the units @ Sears, and he doesn't seem to have any problems with it. So, I could probably save some money, but it's always cheaper to by the good tool once, instead of buying the cheaper one first, and then buying the good one later.

Any specs I should be looking for specifically? I'm going to buy a 220 unit, preferable single phase for ease of install and compatibility if I have to move. How many HP unit would be adequate? 3 HP?

I'm going to build a table to go around the saw, and formica it so that the boards slide easily. This will double as an upholstory station, since having moved out of the 12,000 sq ft warehouse I used to be in, I won't have the space I used to

Any tips, suggestions, etc would be great!

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[l_bilyk]

Take a look at the laguna TS and powermatic PM2000
The only problem witht he leguna is that it's right tilt

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

So, I'm going to be in the market for a nice table saw here one of these days. I'll be cutting mostly 3/4" MDF, but of course, I am going to want something more bad *** then I really need. What I do know is I need a big fence, looking at probably a 50" one. I'll be cutting occasional birch and some other woods, mostly 3/4".

I've been looking at the Delta's.

Any specs I should be looking for specifically? I'm going to buy a 220 unit, preferable single phase for ease of install and compatibility if I have to move. How many HP unit would be adequate? 3 HP?

I'm going to build a table to go around the saw, and formica it so that the boards slide easily. This will double as an upholstory station, since having moved out of the 12,000 sq ft warehouse I used to be in, I won't have the space I used to

Any tips, suggestions, etc would be great!

Thanks in advance guys!

For what you have described; a Delta 10 INCH; 220, 3 HP floor model would be the best bet. (that's what I have)

The longer extention bars allow you to cut to the center of a 96 " sheet. (48 " on either side of the blade)

The longer fence (50 ") depends on a bigger table to maintain accuracy when cutting 4 x 8 sheets lengthwise. (smaller table saws CAN be made to work; but it's hard to "man handle" large work, and get GOOD straight cuts)

When I apprentised in a cabinet shop; the main saw (a Delta 10") had a 96" long fence (48" before the center line of the blade, and 48" after) that slipped over top the saw's fence that allowed for easier "feed in" and "out feed". (it allowed one person to feed a full sheet by themselves)

Mine has an "out table" (36" past the saw's table) so that as the end of a 96" sheet passes thru the blade; it will stay in position. (not fall off the end)

I have one; but would like two, (lack of space) "side extention wings" that would support a sheet 96" wide. (48" either side of the blade; one on either side)

 

[dreadman]

I have a cabinet shop and I have a 10" Delta unisaw with a Biesemeyer fence, 220 V, 3 hp.
Best tool I ever bought. Left or right tilt I think it's a preference thing, I like the left tilt personally, but I'll need a second saw and it's going to be a right tilt, so I have both.
Also it does not matter how good your saw is, if you don't have an adequate outfeed table, you'll be struggling with 3/4" mdf.
And Craftsman, sorry but it's hobby stuff.

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

What's the difference between left tilt and right tilt with the blades? I get the obvious, but it seems like the higher dollar ones have the left tilt.

Missed answering this the first time.

Smaller (and cheaper) table saws tilt the blade to the right because they don't have the clearence for the motor and arbour to swing "up" (which is what happens when you tilt the blade off 90 deg. - to the left)

Larger (and more expensive) table saws (usually cabinet models) suspend the motor and arbour lower down, which allows for the blade to be tilted to the left. Some even allow Right OR Left blade tilt.

 

[Inetmonkey]

Smaller (and cheaper) table saws tilt the blade to the right because they don't have the clearence for the motor and arbour to swing "up" (which is what happens when you tilt the blade off 90 deg. - to the left)

Larger (and more expensive) table saws (usually cabinet models) suspend the motor and arbour lower down, which allows for the blade to be tilted to the left. Some even allow Right OR Left blade tilt.

In addition to the quality issues, right-tilt saws can cause the wood to bind between the fence and the blade if the fence is even slightly off parallel, they also limit the distance you can move your fence toward the blade without a sacrificial face attached.

The Craftsman Professional cabinet saws aren't too bad for enthusiast use. My father has one and it seems to do the job and came with a Biesemeyer fence and some nice fetures. However if you're looking for a quality saw, I'll echo the recommend to look into Delta.

Don't forget to save a little money for some outfeed stands.

 

[SteveL]

You left out an important issue.............budget???? Don't even bother with a contractors saw. Get a cabinet saw, and if it's new, at least 3hp and the largest fence that you can fit in the shop. There are tons of good used Delta Unisaws out there and they can be had for $500 or less if you are patient. I picked up a 1939 Unisaw and a 6" jointer for $200 and with a little work, will probably run better than the new ones out there. The older saws run at 1750 rpm and are so smooth and quiet you can't believe there are on! Check out http://www.owwm.com The guys there know everything there is about old iron.

Get a left tilt if you can. This puts the fence on the right side of the blade when it's tilted which will avoid traping the waste which can cause a nasty kick back!

Also, if you are going to be doing a lot of MDF, get a good dust collector and an over the blade hook up for it. You will be shocked at the amount of dust that this will eliminate in your shop and lungs! For a bunch of info here, go to http://www.WoodNet.net The power tool forum has tons of info on this.

If you don't want to go the used route, try to save up and get a good machine like the Powermatic PM2000 or Delta Unisaw or a General. They will set you back around $1,600-2,000 but worth it. Anyof them can be had with a Beissmeyer or Unifence. Ask 20 guys which one they like and you'll get 10 of each. They are both very good, but I prefer the Unifence, but that's just me. Look at both and decide for yourself. I got the 32" but wish I had gotten the 50".

And lastly, don't skimp on the blades! Get a dedicated 24t rip blade and a good combination blade. Forrest or Freud make about the best. Maybe even a dedicated blade for the MDF would be a good idea as that stuff is HARD on blades.

Once you have it, you'll find all sorts of other things to add like a fold down out feed table or a router table extension and tons of jigs and cross cut sleds.

 

[iiibdsiil]

Thanks guys! I'd be willing to buy something used to save some money. I'm willing to spend what is truly necessary to get the right tools without skimping. Of course, that doesn't mean $5000, but I understand that sometimes you need to shell out the cash for quality equipment. I ***** and moan about every chance I get, and to spend an extra $1000 and get a $1600 machine instead of a $600 machine that I am going to gripe about everytime I use it, I'll spend the extra $1000.

I'll look into what you guys have mentioned, and I'll check out the links you sent me Steve!

Thanks again guys!

 

[l_bilyk]

Also, take a look at the sawstop.

It's expensive, but so are fingers. But I hear those things can be tripped by damp lumber.

 

[iiibdsiil]

I've seen that Saw Stop thing. To me, it's like safety's on guns, keep your fingers where they are supposed to be and there won't be a problem. Accidents happen though, I know. Lose a finger and I bet you won't try that **** again

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

I've seen that Saw Stop thing. To me, it's like safety's on guns, keep your fingers where they are supposed to be and there won't be a problem. Accidents happen though, I know. Lose a finger and I bet you won't try that **** again

Well Ive picked up 3 different peoples fingers who thought they where good with a saw. Including my first shop teacher whos saying was like yours. "A saw is like a rattle snake in a cage, dont stick your fingers in the cage." Sounded good but in reality it didnt work so good. He lost one and shortend up two more. If I had a wood shop now I would have a StopSaw for sure.

 

[Iron-Iceberg]

Here is the thread on it. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3198&highlight=table+saw+stop

 

[Paradise Ridge]

I have one; but would like two, (lack of space) "side extention wings" that would support a sheet 96" wide. (48" either side of the blade; one on either side)

Dave,
I've been looking for an extension table for the left side and found this. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...07362?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

Bear with me here.

I recessed a router into my Unisaw right side (formica) table and love it. I've tried to find an extension for the left side, but Delta wants 400 clams for a bare extension. The router table above can't be used on a left tilt due to clearance problems with the motor guard. I'm going to take my existing right iron extension and mount it on the left side, then mount the above router table extension on the right side between the saw table and the formica table.

clear as mud?

Scott

 

[DIGGER_DAVE]

Dave,
I've been looking for an extension table for the left side and found this. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...07362?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

Bear with me here.

I recessed a router into my Unisaw right side (formica) table and love it. I've tried to find an extension for the left side, but Delta wants 400 clams for a bare extension. The router table above can't be used on a left tilt due to clearance problems with the motor guard. I'm going to take my existing right iron extension and mount it on the left side, then mount the above router table extension on the right side between the saw table and the formica table.

clear as mud?

Scott

No, I understand what you have in mind.

The problem I run into is my shop is VERY narrow!
With the right table extention in place, (and the fence bars) and the fence at it's widest point between the fence and the blade; I can JUST cut to the center of a 96" sheet, (48" blade to fence) the ends of the extention bars are ONLY 6" from the wall!

On the left side of the saw I have a work bench (top height is the same as the saw table) that "doubles" as a left table extention. (I can just nicely walk by the left end of the saw)
Trouble is; from the center of the blade to the wall behind the bench I ONLY have 72"! (it's a NARROW bench!!)

This sometimes means some careful layout when cutting narrow strips off the end of a 96" wide piece; OR, I have to "break out" the portable power saw.

Now I told you these circumstances because; I wound up mounting my router in my OUT TABLE, BEHIND the saw.

Because the center line of the router (shaft) is in line with the center line of the saw blade; I can use the saw's extra long fence when creating LONG custom mouldings or cabinet door edges.
Both miter gauge "slots" continue past the router in the OUT table as well. Because the saw fence runs past the router, with a finger board, I can get pretty good results.

 

[ZRX61]

I was kinda leaning towards a Delta Unisaw, then today I saw this thing:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g0605x

 

[Cebby]

My Bro-In-Law swears by Grizzly stuff (made in China). I have a 3hp Delta Unisaw that I bought from a buddy about 5 years ago. Prior to that I had a Delta Contractors Saw. I've had the 50" fence on both (Biesemeyer on the Contractor and Unifence on the Unisaw). The Biesemeyer is the better fence - I'll be replacing mine someday.

An outfeed table is critical to good cuts on large sheets - whether you build or buy one - it's really needed. For best results, it should be as wide as the whole table on the saw - that little once pictured above is a nice start, but not adequate IMO. Don't even bother with those rollers on a stand, they just fall over.

 

[iiibdsiil]

Just to update everyone, I ended up picking up a Jet unit. 3 HP 220 volt single phase, left tilt, 54" exacta fence, $700. Found it on Craig's List, and even got my step-dad to let the company buy it because they might have to make some wood hurricane shutters for the new warehouse, or something. End of the year, needed to spend the money.

I haven't gotten a chance to use it. The warehouse has been out of power for a few weeks now, as the electrician was splitting up the power for each bay. But we fired it up at the guys house we bought it from, and boy did it run smoother then my buddies Craftsman Pro unit.

 

[eschoendorff]

Sounds like you're happy with your purchase. Congrats! Now, I just hope my dad leaves me his....