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Ingersol Rand t30 headbolt torque?

Iron-Iceberg

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Ingersol Rand t30 headbolt torque? Update, slow fill?

I have an old Ingersoll Rand 30T, model 253 compressor that I am putting new gaskets and valves in and I need to know the torque rating for the valves and the heads. Anyone have a manual? I have looked all over the Internet but cannot find anything.
Thanks for any help.


I have finished putting in the valves but it still takes 25 minutes to fill up to 140psi. I checked the cylinders and they look smooth with no scratches. What else could cause such a slow fill?
Thanks again for any help.
 
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Iron-Iceberg

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WOW that was fast! I guess my google fu is not that great. LOL.
Thanks so very much guys. Ill get this thing running today after all.
 
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Iron-Iceberg

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I have finished putting in the valves but it still takes 25 minutes to fill up to 140psi. I checked the cylinders and they look smooth with no scratches. What else could cause such a slow fill?
Thanks again for any help.
 

Zrexxer

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I have finished putting in the valves but it still takes 25 minutes to fill up to 140psi. I checked the cylinders and they look smooth with no scratches. What else could cause such a slow fill?
Thanks again for any help.
Check valve.

Or your rings are shot.
 
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bmwpower

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Should compressor cylinders be crosshatched like a normal engine?
 
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Iron-Iceberg

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Where is the ck valve I should be looking for? On the line from the high pressure head to the tank? or is there one between the two heads?
 
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Iron-Iceberg

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OK, so I removed the main line from the high pressure head to the tank and back fed air to the tank from a small compressor I have. I filled the tank up to 60 psi and it does not leak back out.
So I guess I'm going to have put new rings in. A few questions.
Can I just put in new rings or do I have to use a hone or a glaze breaker to clean up the cylinders before new rings like on a car motor? The cylinders look smooth with no gouges or scratches.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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I would break the glaze on the walls and get a good cross hatch pattern. After you get it back together, open the tank valve and run the compressor without a load for at least 30 minutes to an hour or so to seat the rings. After that, change the oil again and you should be good to go.
 

bmwpower

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Could the check valve be partially frozen one way? ie. not letting air out of the tank (as in your test), but when real supply air passes through the frozen valve, only some air leaks through?

You'd have to rig something up to test this theory.

I'd really like to be sure that valve is 100% before breaking the pump apart.
 
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Iron-Iceberg

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Could the check valve be partially frozen one way? ie. not letting air out of the tank (as in your test), but when real supply air passes through the frozen valve, only some air leaks through?

You'd have to rig something up to test this theory.

I'd really like to be sure that valve is 100% before breaking the pump apart.

I thought about that. But then I figured that the pump would either over power the ck valve or the pressure would go up until the pressure relief valve on the low side head would blow. This could be wrong thinking. But I'm not sure how to check the check valve without building a manifold with pressure gages on both sides of the valve and it seamed like a lot of work. Although probably not more than ringing the pistons.
 
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