Ingersoll Rand compressors?

[Jason280]

I've been looking for a big compressor (60+ gal) to install in my shop for a while now, and finally came across a deal today on an Ingersoll Rand SS5N5 80gal Professional with 240v 5hp motor. CFM output is rated at 18.1 @ 90psi, so it should be more than enough for my needs.

What's the general consensus on IR compressors? I know most of their air tools come highly rated, but what about their compressors? Also, for those of you running a large vertical tank, is securing the tank to the floor necessary?

 

[waterboy12]

We use an 80 gal at work. It's an IR. It gets used hard and hasn't quit yet. We do have it bolted to the floor. We didn't worry about it at first b/c we thought that nobody would miss a 6ft tall compresser. We were wrong, backed a fork lift right into, ripped the hose real and the air/water seperator right off the wall. If you can secure with out much trouble, I'd recommend you do it.

 

[alex71]

I've had the SS5N5 for a few years now. here are my impressions:

1. works fine overall, delivers air at rated capacity.
2. loud
3. had the pressure switch die, and fail to turn off, resulting in the compressor running continuously at well above rated pressure. I have a new pressure switch to install, but haven't yet (compressor has been down for about a month, as I've been too busy with other stuff to use it anyway). it remains to be seen if the over pressurization has caused any lasting damage.
4. noisy

YMMV

 

[PT Doc]

Quincy 251cp80vcb?

 

[Davefr]

IR is terrible IMHO.

My T-21's valves self destructed shortly after the one year warranty was up. (that was about $250 worth of overpriced parts).

Later on it decided to blow the head gasket. The head gasket is no longer avail. so I had to make one.

I'd buy Quincy over IR any day.

 

[bsaint]

The IR most people buy are junk. The IRs businesses buy are better. The best pump most of us could afford are the gray T10

 

[Slick111]

I strongly dont recommend the IR at least the T-21 pump model that is no more than a cheep big box store model that is over priced I have several friends with them they are loud run hot ( lots of water in the tank & lines ) and both are now broken down with less than 3 years gentle use and proper maintenance.Get the commercial one with the T 30 pump and 1750 rpm motor or buy a different brand.

 

[930dreamer]

I like the old IR three cylinder 15 hp models and I have three.

 

[Jason280]

Wow, I would have never guessed that there would have been this many negative comments regarding IR compressors! Guess I should have posted this thread prior to buying...

I checked online, and it looks like these compressors are going for around $1k. I was able to pick mine up for roughly half that, so I don't think its a terrible deal. My primary compressor for the last couple of years has been a couple wheeled Craftsman 240v 5hp/30gal horizontal machines, and they have given me no problems. I was very surprised how quiet they were compared with a "dry" compressor, so hopefully the IR won't be too loud. I'd originally considered plumbing the pair of Craftsman compressors together, which would have certainly been a cheaper option, but I have two separate shops and need compressors in each. I'll probably end up getting rid of one of the Craftsman, unless I am not impressed with the IR.

 

[evintho]

Well, I've got the same compressor and use it daily. 5 years later nary a problem. It's a little loud but I can hold a conversation in the garage while it's running. It never has to play catchup when I use air hogging tools. I do alot of metal work and sandblasting/beadblasting also. I'm very pleased with it! I mounted it using the hockey puck system. Here's the original thread.................
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8495

 

[Jason280]

So, I guess the question now is, how do I get it home? Looks like it weighs around 600lbs, and will be a beast to move. Any reason I can't remove the pump and motor assembly to make it a little easier to handle?

 

[930dreamer]

So, I guess the question now is, how do I get it home? Looks like it weighs around 600lbs, and will be a beast to move. Any reason I can't remove the pump and motor assembly to make it a little easier to handle?

Is it on a pallet? With some help and a few blankets, you could slide it off a pickup bed. Removing the pump & motor is an option but more work.

 

[MarkJ]

I have an ss5L5. It's good for light use but gets hot when you move a lot of air. I blew a head gasket and called IR customer service. The advised me that this compressor is not meant for heavy duty use. If you have doubts call them and tell them your needs.

 

[PT Doc]

Hire much weight in the pump and motor? 150? You'd still have 450#.

Rent a truck with a power lift gate do rust you can slide it off at your destination.

 

[caper150]

I hate my IR, google about the eletric motors and there is a ton of info out there about them. I have had nothing but problems with the motor on my, so much I have a back up just for when it goes out, which is alot.

 

[solo20]

I have the Ingersoll Rand 24cm 80gal. The so called overpriced junk like many are saying here but in my case it works fine . I have not had any promblems with it and i been useing it for 3 years now .

 

[michaelwoodcock]

About a month or so ago I bought a Campbell Hausfeld off craigslist. It is a late 70's compressor that still pumps out LOTS of air and operates as intended. Haven't gotten much use out of it to date but the previous owner assured me he'd been giving it hell for the past 30 something years. Changed the oil (a sludge came out!) and it pumps better than ever. We have some Ingersol rand's at work, I think T 25's or T 35's, but they've been pumping like crazzy for years. Everyone at work thought they had auto drains on them, and when they were finally checked they took tens of minutes to drain. There are air leaks at every shop hose which keeps them kicking on periodically even if we have a slow day in the shop.

That being said, every company can have a bad apple design, or an orange (good design.) Look up plenty of recent reviews before you buy for the given compressor. Read the manual to the letter before using to see if it has a break in procedure, some do. Get some synthetic oil & change if after a month then change it on the rec. schedule.

 

[Steevo]

I think the consumer grade IR compressors sold through the chain stores like Tractor Supply and Northern tool are on a par with the CH compressors sold at Lowes or the Husky compressors at HD. They are not industrial units, but then they are priced at least $1000 less than an industrial unit.

 

[stratman977]

I'm new here but I have the 80 gallon version of that compressor. I hauled it home myself, moved it to a new house, and moved it out of the garage to epoxy the floors. It can be done with 3 guys and a dolly. I took the pump and motor off the last time to move it by myself and its not worth it. It's a pain to get the belt lined back up right.

As for reliability, I run air sanders with it all day sometimes and it does get hot. I sometimes blow a fan on the tank to help with the heat, it seems to help. I had it for 5 years and it blew the motor a few days before the warranty was up. They sent a new one no questions asked. The pump is about shot on mine. If you don't run it for a while after some heavy use it has a hard time getting the pump turning and sometimes it has a real bad rod knock. A new pump costs almost as much as I paid for it. I was under the opinion that I was going to get a better unit when this one throws a rod but its been a year and it hasn't yet.

Also by the way I have never had it bolted down but I always kept it in a corner of the garage.

 

[stratman977]

Also I would recommend buying a piece of galvanized pipe, and elbow and a threaded cap for the oil drain. It's impossible to change the oil without making a mess the way its setup. I think its 1/4 inch npt but don't trust me on that.

 

[Jason280]

Ok, I haven't actually gotten the compressor home, but I am getting ready to run my hardwiring for the motor. That way, it will be ready once I do get it in the shop. I picked up two cut off boxes from a buddy to use to cut power on and off at the compressor, one is rated for 30a (with 30a fuses) and the other is a 60a cut off. I know the running draw on the motor is around 22.5a, so the start up should be around 28a or so. Can I get by with a 30a fused cut off box, or should I use the 60a box with 40-45a fuses?

 

[alex71]

30A is what I used. never tripped the breaker.

 

[Koolbreeze]

Ok, I haven't actually gotten the compressor home, but I am getting ready to run my hardwiring for the motor. That way, it will be ready once I do get it in the shop. I picked up two cut off boxes from a buddy to use to cut power on and off at the compressor, one is rated for 30a (with 30a fuses) and the other is a 60a cut off. I know the running draw on the motor is around 22.5a, so the start up should be around 28a or so. Can I get by with a 30a fused cut off box, or should I use the 60a box with 40-45a fuses?

My dad has that exact same unit and we hooked it up to a 30 amp breaker on 10 gauge wire over a year ago. Not a single hiccup thus far.

As far as moving it, we hauled his on a 10ft trailer (one that has a gate/ramp on back). He and I just walked it off the trailer by tilting it slightly. I did my 60 gallon Puma the same way by myself.

 

[fordcragar]

I bought a IR Type 30 air compressor about 6 years ago. It was used and came out of a car wash. The motor was 3HP 3-phase; which I swapped for a single phase 5HP Baldor motor. I paid $300 for the compressor and $350 for the new motor. It works great.

 

[Ridetherocket]

Be sure to mount it to the floor, I left mine on the pallet and the vibration caused some of the plumbing on the pump to come loose ( at least thats what IR told me)

 

[Provincial]

I have a low-end Ingersoll 80-gal 2-stage unit with the cheap Italian high-speed pump. I bought it used in 1985 from some guys that were using it to run an autobody shop in their garage. It wouldn't pump up very fast. I pulled the air filter and found it was plugged with paint and collapsed, so I offered $200 and got it. Installed a new filter and it ran good for years!

I have had to replace the head gasket twice, and it just went out again. This is a weak point on the cheap Italian pumps. IR hasn't carried the gasket for years, so you have to make your own. The pump runs at high speed and gets real hot if you put a lot of demand on it. The motor only runs at 1725 RPM, but it has a big pulley on it. My motor burned out after about ten years and I replaced it with a Baldor.

I still have this compressor sitting on the original shipping pallet! It has never been bolted down. The original owners never took it off the pallet. I have it connected to the fixed air lines with a 3-foot section of 1/2" air hose.

I am just finishing up my new shop and am installing a IR T30 7.5hp vertical unit that came out of a Goodyear tire shop that only stayed open nine months. I bought two of these used and the first one went into a repair shop at the rock quarry I sold a few years ago. It ran great and wasn't very loud (a little louder than the 3hp Quincy I had earlier) and gave no problems. I have 3 phase power, so I got a good deal on these compressors.

 

[jkeyser14]

I have an ss5L5. It's good for light use but gets hot when you move a lot of air. I blew a head gasket and called IR customer service. The advised me that this compressor is not meant for heavy duty use. If you have doubts call them and tell them your needs.

I have the same one. My motor start capacitor blew the first time I used it and it was out of warranty because it took a while for me to get around to installing the compressor. IR customer service was awful. They wouldn't even sell me a new capacitor, they would only sell me an entire new motor (for $600 + shipping on an $800 compressor). I purchased the start cap from Grainger. No more IR products for me after how rude their customer service member was.

 

[Chris.Santamarina]

I've been looking for a big compressor (60+ gal) to install in my shop for a while now, and finally came across a deal today on an Ingersoll Rand SS5N5 80gal Professional with 240v 5hp motor. CFM output is rated at 18.1 @ 90psi, so it should be more than enough for my needs.

What's the general consensus on IR compressors? I know most of their air tools come highly rated, but what about their compressors? Also, for those of you running a large vertical tank, is securing the tank to the floor necessary?

As an Air Compressor tech, I can tell you that anything new made by IR is junk with the exception of the R-Series Nirvana which is way too big for what your needs are. That being said if you would have come across a 5 hp. Quincy 325 on a tank it would have been a great score. I have seen a lot of the IR line pumps including the industrial models pass up a ton of oil in short time. Being a splash lubricated unit, they often do not get the right amount of oil to the cylinder and bearings. Quincy pumps come with the oil pump option and will not make air if the oil pump pressure isn't at least 18 psi.

As far as anchoring the tank to the floor, all vertical tanks above 60 gallons should be bolted down. They will walk across the floor. Horizontal tanks are less likely to tip over, but they too will walk if not bolted down.

 

[Chris.Santamarina]

I have the same one. My motor start capacitor blew the first time I used it and it was out of warranty because it took a while for me to get around to installing the compressor. IR customer service was awful. They wouldn't even sell me a new capacitor, they would only sell me an entire new motor (for $600 + shipping on an $800 compressor). I purchased the start cap from Grainger. No more IR products for me after how rude their customer service member was.

Agreed, IR customer service isnt very good and they will price gouge you every chance they get. I have been an Air Compressor Tech for over 16 years now and IR is horrible. They take forever to get you what you need and you will pay through the nose for what you need. I have contacts for aftermarket parts if you need them.

Chris

 

[JamesBill]

As an Air Compressor tech, I can tell you that anything new made by IR is junk with the exception of the R-Series Nirvana which is way too big for what your needs are.

In what way have the Type 30 pumps changed for the worse?

 

[Chris.Santamarina]

In what way have the Type 30 pumps changed for the worse?

From an assembly stand point as well as a materials stand point. The bearings they use are cheap as well as the connecting rods. I have seen about 2 dozen pumps over the past 2 years put a rod through the crank case and all the pumps were less then 6 months old and oil level was fine. High pressure cylinder always seems to be the culprit. Piston rings always seem to spin causing excessive oil to be pumped up into the heads causing stuck finger valves and carbon build up in the discharge line and tank check valve. The valve plates are about the same as they were years ago, but the gaskets are **** causing leaks. Tank check valves always stick causing the unit to start under a load, pressure switches are junk and non adjustable from the factory. It wouldnt be high atop my list of compressors for heavy shop use. Some of the newer store bought models are cast aluminum instead of cast iron like years ago. Every manufacture makes a good and bad line, but IR doesnt seem to be able to differentiate between the 2.

 

[Jason280]

I have to say that the few IR techs I have spoken with so far have been nothing but helpful. I ultimately called them to ask about what size cut off box I needed, and they gave me no problems at all. I just hope this is the last time I have to speak with them!!

Oh yeah, the tech recommended a fuse double the FLA of the motor, which will put me at 45 amps.

Also, its been recommended that I run a magnetic starter motor control, which should help me in the long run. Here's the model that was suggested I use:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-5-HP-SI...tu=UCC&otn=15&ps=63&clkid=7171116143511903766

Any reason to not use a motor control? If I do add the motor control, do I still need the cut off box?

 

[Chris.Santamarina]

I have to say that the few IR techs I have spoken with so far have been nothing but helpful. I ultimately called them to ask about what size cut off box I needed, and they gave me no problems at all. I just hope this is the last time I have to speak with them!!

Oh yeah, the tech recommended a fuse double the FLA of the motor, which will put me at 45 amps.

Also, its been recommended that I run a magnetic starter motor control, which should help me in the long run. Here's the model that was suggested I use:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-5-HP-SI...tu=UCC&otn=15&ps=63&clkid=7171116143511903766

Any reason to not use a motor control? If I do add the motor control, do I still need the cut off box?

In our standard installations we always have a breaker box and just after the breaker a disconnect box with fuses within 10 feet of the compressor. In NY we have local and city codes to follow. The magnetic starter is fixed with a set of heaters or overloads that are set for the motors full load amps plus the service factor. We do not usually advise to use the contacts on the pressure switch to control the motor. It offers the motor no protection in the event of an electrical failure. Fuse sizes are not rated for double the FLA. If you tell me the horsepower of the unit as well as the operating voltage I can tell you exactly what you would need. It is not absolutely required to use a disconnect box if it is wired to a breaker, however make sure the breaker is sized appropriately.

 

[Jason280]

The FLA of the motor is 22 amps, and is rated at 5hp (240v).

Would I be hurting anything to run the motor control and a cut off box? Would it even be necessary? The line I am hardwiring to is an extra 240v 50 amp plug I wired for my welders, using either #6 or #8 wire (pretty sure its #6). It, of course, has a 50a breaker in the panel. If I wired it based on my set up now, I would have a 50a breaker at the panel, and 40a at the cut off box going to the motor controller.

 

[Chris.Santamarina]

The FLA of the motor is 22 amps, and is rated at 5hp (240v).

Would I be hurting anything to run the motor control and a cut off box? Would it even be necessary? The line I am hardwiring to is an extra 240v 50 amp plug I wired for my welders, using either #6 or #8 wire (pretty sure its #6). It, of course, has a 50a breaker in the panel. If I wired it based on my set up now, I would have a 50a breaker at the panel, and 40a at the cut off box going to the motor controller.

Using a motor control and a disconnect box is just fine. I usually recommend the disconnect box so you dont have to turn the breaker off all the time. Constantly throwing the breaker will weaken the spring and cause premature breaker trip. This is exactly what you will need for your installation. Mind you, I will assume the service factor of your motor is 1.15 or 1.25. Thats usually the standard efficiency motor S.F.

5hp. 240 Volts:

Recommended Thermal Magnetic Breaker - 30 amps
Recommended Dual Element Time Delay Fuses - 25 amps
Disconnect Box Max Rating - 30 amps
Recommended Copper Conductor Wire - 14 awg.
(using a larger size wire is ok as long as its not too big)

This is exactly what you need for the electrical installation. However, make sure that your Magnetic Starter is fixed with a 240 volt coil and adjustable overloads that can be set at 30 amps or fixed overloads that are preset at 30 amps. Also, you will have to wire one side of your pressure switch to the starter as well. This gets a little involved if you have never done this before. You will need to remove all the wires from your pressure switch. Take one wire from your L1 leg on your starter and run it to the line side of your pressure switch. take the load side of your pressure switch and run a wire to the 240 volt coil on the starter. The other side of the coil should be factory wired to the L2 leg and to the motor overloads. This will assure that if the overloads trip it will drop out the coil. It also assures you that once the pressure switch opens after the tank is up to pressure that it drop out the coil turning the unit off. The pressure switch will then close when air demand is present again starting the unit up automatically.

 

[Chris.Santamarina]

The FLA of the motor is 22 amps, and is rated at 5hp (240v).

Would I be hurting anything to run the motor control and a cut off box? Would it even be necessary? The line I am hardwiring to is an extra 240v 50 amp plug I wired for my welders, using either #6 or #8 wire (pretty sure its #6). It, of course, has a 50a breaker in the panel. If I wired it based on my set up now, I would have a 50a breaker at the panel, and 40a at the cut off box going to the motor controller.

FYI- A 50 amp breaker with 40 amp fuses will offer you no protection. If sized too large you will burn up the motor before ever knowing there was a problem with it. Breakers and time delay fuses are designed to handle the inrush current without tripping. Inrush only occurs for a second or so.

 

[Jason280]

FYI- A 50 amp breaker with 40 amp fuses will offer you no protection. If sized too large you will burn up the motor before ever knowing there was a problem with it. Breakers and time delay fuses are designed to handle the inrush current without tripping. Inrush only occurs for a second or so.

I guess technically I could simply unplug the compressor and completely bypass the cutoff box all together, but that would leave me with a 50 amp breaker for the compressor. With the fused cut off, I can set the time delay fuses for whetever size I determine, from 30 amps to 45 amps. That way, I still have the plug for my welders if I need it, and still have the correct fuse setting for the compressor.

I am confused, though, why IR tech support would recommend a fuse setting of 40-45 amps if I need less.

Also, what do you think of the motor control in the eBay link above?

 

[Chris.Santamarina]

I guess technically I could simply unplug the compressor and completely bypass the cutoff box all together, but that would leave me with a 50 amp breaker for the compressor. With the fused cut off, I can set the time delay fuses for whetever size I determine, from 30 amps to 45 amps. That way, I still have the plug for my welders if I need it, and still have the correct fuse setting for the compressor.

I am confused, though, why IR tech support would recommend a fuse setting of 40-45 amps if I need less.

Also, what do you think of the motor control in the eBay link above?

I have to ask because now you have my curiosity. Is the motor in question a single phase or three phase motor. I have read through all you posts and it doesnt state what the phase is. The starter that is on Ebay is for a single phase unit. If in fact you have a single phase motor, then yes that starter will work, however if you have a 3 phase motor then no it will not. If you clearly see a capacitor on top of the motor then you have a single phase unit. Should it be a single phase motor then your electrical requirements will differ from what I have originally told you. If it is a single phase unit at 5hp 240volts then yes you will need a 50 amp breaker and 40 amp time delay fuses.

 

[Jason280]

Yes, it is a single phase motor.

 

[fred d]

I work at lowes and we sell the 80 gal IR and the 60 gal IR
I have had 2-60s and 1-80 come back. But not for motor issues, but pump problems
I have purchased the 80gal for $75 (2 weeks old)and the 60gal (2 months old)for $50

I have a 60gal compressor that my dad was using over 50 years ago and it still works great.....But it's old, so I have been tring to decide what to do

I like the idea of 80gal capacity, just don't trust using the repaired IR, but hate to sell the IR when the one that has served me well may be on its last leg.
And I don't have room to keep them both/all