Input Needed - Finishing Garage Walls/Ceiling

[tenorplayer23]

Guys,

Need some opinions, +s/-s for covering my interior garage walls (and potentially ceiling..now or later). Have scanned the various threads but thought some current opinions would be good to have.


Garage - 3 car attached; 2x4 construction; one wall finished where it is attached to the house. Ceiling is unfinished; walls are 9ft. high.

Desired - insulate walls and cover with TBD?? Finish ceiling now/future with drywall; add add'l electrical outlets/circuit; cable as req'd. One window to be trimmed out. Length of garage and one garage depth wall to be covered, plus obviously, parts of garage door wall (2-car + 1-car doors).

Questions:

What would you recommend for wall covering??

Conventional thought - 5/8" drywall (plus rough finishing & primer, white paint)

Or.....perhaps, 5/8" tongue and groove OSB (plus primer/paint)

Or................TBD?????

Costs look like ~$2-3 more per sheet for OSB (~$11 vs. $8) vs. drywall. My guess is there is quite a bit of labor savings with OSB given there is no mud/tape/sanding. Only primer coat and paint???

Would appreciate opinions, recommendations, input please. Thanks in advance (oh.....and then there is always the great debate about floor coverings. LOL )

See ya,

 

[Sirducky9]

Ever think about installing sheetrock, and instead of finishing joints, installing a 1x6 board along the joints. Makes for an interesting grid pattern depending on sizes and layout of the sheets (more for the ceiling but possible for walls too.). And if you install the sheetrock on the walls vertically, all your dealing with is tapered joints. I'm a fan of actually installing a pressure treated plywood at the bottom 1 or 2 feet to take most of the abuse from dollies, tools, kids bikes, etc.


Not sure if that helps, but it just rattled through my brain.

 

[rburke65]

I'm sure that the other members here know but tell me...what is TBD?

 

[rockchucker]

OSB has only been out for a short while comparatively speaking in building materials. Any OSB I have seen the Glue has failed on in a matter of a few years. You can give me all of the test results you want but I do not feel that OSB is up to the test nor has it had sufficient time to be tested thoroughly. Only time will tell. This is obviously my opinion and there is so much of it out there in Homes today that even if there were negative tests they would not be released due to the money it would cost in Law Suits to replace all that is out there today. It would be swept under the rug. OSB is $#it. I refuse to use it in the building of anything.



I would personally use Sheetrock. Do not stand it up on end. It is designed for the most strength to run horizontally in a brick pattern. Tape it and mud it. Paint it and be done. If you need backing to a wall then either Sheet it with Plywood before the Sheetrock or after Sheetrock. The choice is yours. Same Horizontal, offset brick pattern.


Yes it is more expensive. Yes it is more work. **** it up. Do it once and do it right.

Just my 2¢

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I'm sure that the other members here know but tell me...what is TBD?

To Be Determined

 

[dittle fart around]

Drywall and tape seams on the walls then cover with slat wall. It's about $5 a square foot and then you'll have a place to hang most everything. Made of plastic you can hose it down, it comes in lots of colors, you can hang cabinets and shelves off the stuff. It replaces pegboard and give you a finished look.
View media item 10401This is not my garage.

 

[brownbagg]

its a garage, plywood

 

[tinbender 66]

OSB has only been out for a short while comparatively speaking in building materials. Any OSB I have seen the Glue has failed on in a matter of a few years. You can give me all of the test results you want but I do not feel that OSB is up to the test nor has it had sufficient time to be tested thoroughly. Only time will tell. This is obviously my opinion and there is so much of it out there in Homes today that even if there were negative tests they would not be released due to the money it would cost in Law Suits to replace all that is out there today. It would be swept under the rug. OSB is $#it. I refuse to use it in the building of anything.



I would personally use Sheetrock. Do not stand it up on end. It is designed for the most strength to run horizontally in a brick pattern. Tape it and mud it. Paint it and be done. If you need backing to a wall then either Sheet it with Plywood before the Sheetrock or after Sheetrock. The choice is yours. Same Horizontal, offset brick pattern.


Yes it is more expensive. Yes it is more work. **** it up. Do it once and do it right.

Just my 2¢

I built my wife a chicken coop out of OSB almost 20 years ago so it's been around for a while. I sheeted the EXTERIOR of it with osb, painted it and it has not deteriorated a bit. Something about "Rockchucker" tells me you hang the stuff.

 

[ddawg16]

It has been discussed here several times...

Some guys like OSB because you can hang more stuff on it.....and because it already has a rough surface, tape and mud is not an issue. However, fire is an issue.

Drywall...cheaper, better looking surface. Does requres tape and mud to cover the seams....but looks great when done. And it doesn't burn.

My advice....ceiling...drywall. Your not going to be using the ceiling to hang things....and if you did, you would hang it off a ceiling joist anyway. The drywall would do a great job of slowing down a fire. On a side note.....any wall between the garage and house MUST be fire rated (5/8") drywall.

For the rest...your call. I used drywall in my garage and no regrets. Most of the walls are covered in cabinets. I painted mine with semi-gloss exterior paint....makes it a lot eaiser to blow the dust off. I would suspect that OSB would tend to hold more dirt....and it's going to take a lot more paint to cover it.

Click on the link in my sig to see what my walls look like.

 

[Cougar]

I'm going drywall when I get around to finishing my garage.

Do the ceiling first.

 

[ddawg16]

Do the ceiling first.

Yes....always do the ceiling first. When you do the sides, it helps hold up the edges of the ceiling drywall.

 

[Matt M PA]

My attached garage was already sheetrocks so we put slatwall over top...and it's been very handy. We used the MDF style stuff.

In my detached we used "SmartPanel". It looks like T1-11, but it's primed and ready for paint. We painted it white and I like the somewhat rustic look.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

The time you save throwing up OSB vs. drywall, you'll use up, and then some, trying to seal it and paint it. They seem to be very fond of stamping OSB with all kinds of stamps, and the ink is a real bisch to get sealed. Additionally, OSB wood isn't the best around (it's made of left over chunks from other wood processing activities) and a lot is saturated with sap, which, again, will seep through your paint job. You can prime and paint all you want, but _something_ will leach through the paint, almost no matter what. If you really don't care, OSB might be okay, but around here, OSB isn't very cheap.

IMHO, drywall and white semi-gloss exterior paint, or drywall, then cover it with something else.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas

 

[Sirducky9]

FYI: USG says you can install sheetrock both ways on a wall. http://www.usg.com/rc/installation-...-gypsum-panels-installation-guide-en-J371.pdf, page 5.

 

[toyotadriver]

I recommend OSB. Much more durable than drywall and easier to hang things from the walls. My shop and house garage is OSB and it has held up fine. I personally think it's better than plywood in a lot of ways.

The shop that I am building now has OSB on the walls as well.

 

[71flh]

I'd plan and install wiring, lots of lights, then drywall, finish, and paint with a light color for light. Then maybe a half wall in places where the cars might hit it for example.

 

[Falcon67]

FWIW - Drywall and OSB are the same price around here.

 

[osu69]

I used a half sheet of exterior beadboard vertically with a 1 X 6 across the top. There's 1/4" drywall under it for stiffness since the beadboard is only 3/8". Remainder of walls and ceiling: drywall. Note the "interference fit" between the lift and garage door. There's a placard on the lift motor: "GARAGE DOOR DOWN?"

 

[green.bubbly]

I am currently install T&G OSB in my shop. I had this in my old shop for over 8 years and it was holding up perfectly. I prefer the look of sheetrock but this is a my garage/shop. The walls will get beat up. The OSB adds some structural stiffness and makes it easy to mount anything anywhere on the walls.

 

[tenorplayer23]

Thanks for the input, but, covering the exposed walls @ an add'l $5/sq. ft. is a little pricey, given I'm debating the most efficient way to cover the walls. Drywall ~$8-9/32 ft. sq/4'x8' sheet; ~$11/32 sq. ft/4'x8' sheet. Slatwall ~$160/4'x8' sheet equivalent. Must be really nice stuff.

See ya,

Drywall and tape seams on the walls then cover with slat wall. It's about $5 a square foot and then you'll have a place to hang most everything. Made of plastic you can hose it down, it comes in lots of colors, you can hang cabinets and shelves off the stuff. It replaces pegboard and give you a finished look.
View media item 10401This is not my garage.

 

[regguy1]

I went outside the box, prefinished "garage liner" tempered pegboard from HD (48") and paneling top (20") and bottom (36")

 

[Kevin54]

I had OSB on the house garage and absolutely hated it. Even when painted it still looked like OSB. Then there was the leaching of something like CTD stated, Even at that, painting it isn't as easy as drywall as you really have to go all four directions and then some to fill the voids. So to cure it, I drywalled over it. Now I have the best of both. Easy to paint and I can drive a nail or screw anywhere.

But for the ones that says drywall shouldn't be in a garage and is not durable....what the hell do you do in yours to make holes in it? I have drywall in my garage, work in it, and have never knocked a hole in it. If I did, it is a simple fix anyways.

 

[Cougar]

I had OSB on the house garage and absolutely hated it. Even when painted it still looked like OSB. Then there was the leaching of something like CTD stated, Even at that, painting it isn't as easy as drywall as you really have to go all four directions and then some to fill the voids. So to cure it, I drywalled over it. Now I have the best of both. Easy to paint and I can drive a nail or screw anywhere.

But for the ones that says drywall shouldn't be in a garage and is not durable....what the hell do you do in yours to make holes in it? I have drywall in my garage, work in it, and have never knocked a hole in it. If I did, it is a simple fix anyways.

I remember as a kid, putting a few holes in the drywall All Star Wrestling.
Parents were not happy.

 

[tenorplayer23]

Really nice.....beautiful. Questions: gas heat (and insulated I would imagine)? What's under the peg board?

Also, what did you do the floor with?

Quite the good job. Thanks for showing it.

See ya,

I went outside the box, prefinished "garage liner" tempered pegboard from HD (48") and paneling top (20") and bottom (36")

 

[regguy1]

Really nice.....beautiful. Questions: gas heat (and insulated I would imagine)? What's under the peg board?

Also, what did you do the floor with?

Quite the good job. Thanks for showing it.

See ya,

Thanks,

Yes, natural gas heater HeatStar 45K BTU it's the same as the Mr. Heater Big Maxx just sold with a different decal on it.

I insulated the walls with 3 '12" R11, same with the ceiling. The garage was built in 1984 and I didn't start the finish work on the inside until last year. I was glad I buried the PE gas line when it was built. The pegboard is right over the studs, that's it. The floor is a product called Supercoat epoxy.

Here's a tour video:

Thread about the epoxy floor:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66867

 

[Jack Olsen]

I haven't read through every response, so my apologies if this has already been mentioned. With an attached garage, code requires the wall adjacent to the living space be sheetrocked -- this is for fire purposes. You can throw OSB or plywood over it, but don't pull out that sheetrock and expect an inspector to let it slide.

I have plywood on three of the four walls in my detached garage. The side adjacent to my office (part of the same freestanding structure) is exterior stucco -- but I'm pretty sure this is simply because of years of Mickey Mouse-ery as a small building kept getting bigger. I also have an exterior downspout running along one of my interior walls, so go figure.

 

[regguy1]

Good point Jack,

My garage is detatched (built in 1984) my son and I built a 12' x 20' addition on it in 2002. That allows me to store stuff and keep clutter out of the the main garage. I also park the tractor in the addition, that was the reason for the the 8' door.

Because it's detatched I didn't violate code by using the garage liner pegboard, however with that stuff you need to be be aware when you're welding or grinding not to let any sparks hit it...don't want any hot stuff going behind it.

 

[ManxRacer]

I'm using green drywall (moisture and mildew resistant) and covering the lower portion with FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic). It will provide a textured, waterproof covering that's more attractive than OSB and much more tolerant of moisture.

 

[aar0s]

I'm using green drywall (moisture and mildew resistant) and covering the lower portion with FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic). It will provide a textured, waterproof covering that's more attractive than OSB and much more tolerant of moisture.

Ive thought about doing this but also thought about vinyl siding for an area where you might be washing cars and whatnot.

 

[Brad54]

I have a 32x40 detached shop, with 12 foot ceilings.
I insulated it with R19 in the walls... ceiling is still open rafters, but it's on the list.

White-faced pegboard from the ceiling down 8 feet, screwed right to the studs.
From the floor, up 4-feet, I put brite-finished corrugated metal siding, capped with a 1x4 pine "chair rail" to transition to the pegboard.

What I like about the pegboard is that I can hang things anywhere in the shop I want--signs, lights, clocks, parts, tools, accessories to equipment, whatever/wherever.

The corrugated will keep sparks and floor jack handles out of the wall. I have a welding table a good distance from any walls, and if I'm welding on a car, if I'm pretty sure I'll be far enough from any walls that the sparks will arc down and hit the metal. I really don't see when I could hit the wall that high.

The real big thing for me was this: once the pegboard is hung, it's done. No taping, mudding, sanding, priming and painting. I think all the additional materials required make the difference in a sheet of pegboard vs. a sheet of drywall, negligible.

The time and work required for one versus the other is no comparison.

-Brad

 

[tenorplayer23]

Semi-Gloss or Satin Paint for Drywall Interior??

All, thanks for the input.

OK - Garage interior is almost finished. Elected to insulate garage walls and drywall same, leaving ceiling open. Finish work done, including baseboard and ceiling molding. (Pics when done)

Next up, prime and paint in white.

Question - Using Kilz primer and Behr paint......white Semi-Gloss OR Satin Finish Latex Enamel for final paint coat????

Have 4-2bulb x 8ft. florescent fixtures overhead (open ceiling)

Opinions??

Thx in advance. See ya,

 

[JC23]

It's gonna be a lot brighter when you finish that ceiling. But the walls look good. I'd go with the semi gloss. LIght really bounces and it's an easy clean up.

And don't forget the pics!

 

[bradweingartner]

Good choice on the drywall. My shop is half OSB and half studs right now and I hate it. I'd have redone it all in drywall by now if I could just get to the walls.....

 

[Porcupine]

I would definetely aim for semi-gloss - you won't regret it - much brighter and easier to clean, imo.

 

[jdaallen]

OSB has only been out for a short while comparatively speaking in building materials. Any OSB I have seen the Glue has failed on in a matter of a few years. You can give me all of the test results you want but I do not feel that OSB is up to the test nor has it had sufficient time to be tested thoroughly. Only time will tell. This is obviously my opinion and there is so much of it out there in Homes today that even if there were negative tests they would not be released due to the money it would cost in Law Suits to replace all that is out there today. It would be swept under the rug. OSB is $#it. I refuse to use it in the building of anything.



I would personally use Sheetrock. Do not stand it up on end. It is designed for the most strength to run horizontally in a brick pattern. Tape it and mud it. Paint it and be done. If you need backing to a wall then either Sheet it with Plywood before the Sheetrock or after Sheetrock. The choice is yours. Same Horizontal, offset brick pattern.


Yes it is more expensive. Yes it is more work. **** it up. Do it once and do it right.

Just my 2¢

OSB has been aroun nearly 40 years now. ???

OSB Manufacturing Process

Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is an engineered, mat-formed panel product made of strands, flakes or wafers sliced from small diameter, round wood logs and bonded with an exterior-type binder under heat and pressure.

OSB panels consist of layered mats. Exterior or surface layers are composed of strands aligned in the long panel direction; inner-layers consist of cross- or randomly-aligned strands. These large mats are then subjected to intense heat and pressure to become a "master" panel and are cut to size.

Strand dimensions are predetermined and have a uniform thickness. The majority of Structural Board Association (SBA) member mills use a combination of strands up to 6" (150mm) long and 1" (25mm) wide.

OSB's strength comes mainly from the uninterrupted wood fiber, interweaving of the long strands or wafers, and degree of orientation of strands in the surface layers. Waterproof and boil proof resin binders are combined with the strands to provide internal strength, rigidity and moisture resistance.

 

[Thruxton]

In my little 19 X 19 I used drywall on the ceiling, 5/8 Type X on the wall adjacent to the house, and 1/2 drywall over 3/8 plywood on the other walls. Walls painted semi-gloss white, ceiling white. Criteria: appearance and brightness, durability. Putting 3/8 plywood under the drywall makes it a bit more resistant to impacts, and also allows for LIGHT loads to be directly screwed to the wall (heavy still requires attaching to the stud). So far so good. Ideas I got here, BTW!