jasondavidmann
Well-known member
A lot of good information here. I'm following along as I am planning to build a 16x50 soon in Manitoba. I agree with the comments about a water heater vs boiler.
Input on New 32x50 Garage. Size, Layout, Insulation, Heating, Building etc.
- Thread starter nvd
- Start date
We have a double car garage attached to the house with a 16’ door. But how we want the front of the shop with the second bay bumped out won’t work unless we change the size then won’t be symmetrical.
We are doing 12’ walls with scissors trusses so ceilings will be vaulted so we have ceiling height on loft as well as hoist, plan to do infloor heat so heat will obviously rise but floor will be warm.
Yup we have a window by the bench which looks into our yard.
Has anyone installed a hoist recently looking at either a two post 9-10,000lb hoist or I seen smaller ones like a scissor lift and lifts truck/car 3’ off the ground good for basic maintenance/tires etc. Everything I read basically 5-6” reinforced concrete is enough however I see on benpacks website they changed it in 2020 to 12” of concrete/footing etc, seems a lot but I’m sure it’s for a reason. I’ll be using the hoist occasionally, realistically maybe a dozen times a year. But nonetheless don’t want issues after,
And it will be difficult to plan where I want it exactly ahead of the pour.
And it will be difficult to plan where I want it exactly ahead of the pour.
Racy2
Active member
I installed a 10,000 Benpack 3 months ago on 6 inch concrete. When I looked at the web site it said 4 inches
CraigStu
Well-known member
Having worked on them for 30 yrs for my living I am a huge proponent of 2 post lifts. They are the one type that let's you do everything you could ever want to do on a car. And they are cheap compared to 4 post and especially if you add in the bridge jacks. But a scissor lift has me intrigued for my own garage. You can't do a trans on a 4 wheel or rear drive car but maybe on a front wheel drive car. A huge advantage for you is they don't need any special concrete in the floor. And you can move it anywhere you want to.
Have you seen many issues with two posts for the average joe on 5” of reinforced concrete? I may take the chance then I can install it anywhere after.. assuming I can get hydro to it.
Yeah on the site is says previous requirements and new requirements and it went from about 4” to needing 12”. Big jump.
puttinonthekritz
Well-known member
I have in-floor heat and two drains, one for each garage door. I keep it around 50 degrees for the vehicles to melt snow and the drains are nice so excess water has a place to go versus just evaporating and creating excess moisture/condensation in the garage. At that temp, it takes a little while when you have ice and slush dripping off a vehicle anyway, so I prefer the drain as well. If you put the drain in, put in a p-trap.
Thanks, did you put them near the door and slope the concrete in that direction or kind of in the middle of where a vehicle would park?
puttinonthekritz
Well-known member
I placed them toward the middle of where the center of the vehicle would be approximately 14ft off the garage doors. And the concrete all slightly slopes to the drain. You don’t want the slope going to garage doors either, even with heated floors. Potential for water freezing under the door seal. But in your case you wouldn’t need to slope from the 50ft end all the way to drain. At that distance you would need a sizable slope to even make it that far. I’d only slope the back half of the garage where the vehicles park, toward the drains. Your concrete finisher should be able to go over his with you.
78SC4X4
Well-known member
Are you sure? I copied this from the 2020 manual for XPR-10 models. It is usually less if you're mounting in a large complete slab. The deeper recommendations are if your mounting area is independent of the rest of the slab.
Installing the Posts
We strongly recommend having multiple people work together to install the Posts.
⚠ DANGER Pay special attention when installing the Posts. If done incorrectly, the Lift could
fall over, potentially causing damage to the Vehicle, the Lift, and injuring bystanders.
Concrete specifications are:
• Depth: 4.25 inches / 108 mm thick, minimum
• PSI: 3,000 PSI, minimum
• Cured: 28 days, minimum
The Concrete floor where you want to install your Lift must meet the following requirements:
• The floor must be a flat, Concrete floor. It must be level; do not install the Lift on a surface
with more than three degrees of slope.
• Do not install the Lift on cracked or defective Concrete.
• Check the floor for the possibility of it being a post-tension slab. In this case, contact the building
architect before drilling. Using ground penetrating radar may help you find the tensioned cable.
Here’s the link I was looking at.
https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/concrete-floor-requirements/
But is says this so maybe if you don’t have 4-1/4”
And you need to cut it out then it needs to be 12”?
“The information contained in this appendage supersedes any other information given in the accompanied manual. This information is presented for design recommendations for a new concrete slab in the event that the pre‐existing floor does not meet minimum requirements of the applicable lift type. Please read all instructions below carefully before producing new slab.”
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jollygreengiant
Well-known member
A couple things jump out to me.
1. If your doing concrete footers have them pour knee walls coming up about 2' or so from your finished floor.
2. Pour a pad in front of all your roll up doors
3. I'd look at getting some windows in the top panels of your garage doors. I know guys on this website don't like windows but I love the natural light.
Regarding the in-floor heat, I guess my question is are you going to be out there every day? If your not then I would look at another less costly method. I know in floor heat is really nice but unless your working in it every day IMO I don't think it's worth it. A lot of guys on here are installing mini-splits in their builds. With those systems you get heat and AC in one unit. I know we don't get as hot here in Ontario as say the southern US but having AC would really help with our humid summers.
1. If your doing concrete footers have them pour knee walls coming up about 2' or so from your finished floor.
2. Pour a pad in front of all your roll up doors
3. I'd look at getting some windows in the top panels of your garage doors. I know guys on this website don't like windows but I love the natural light.
Regarding the in-floor heat, I guess my question is are you going to be out there every day? If your not then I would look at another less costly method. I know in floor heat is really nice but unless your working in it every day IMO I don't think it's worth it. A lot of guys on here are installing mini-splits in their builds. With those systems you get heat and AC in one unit. I know we don't get as hot here in Ontario as say the southern US but having AC would really help with our humid summers.
Thanks for input.
I’m having the foundation wall be 8” higher then slab.
We are going to be paving our entire driveway once it’s done.
Yes, we will have windows in the garage doors to allow light in!
I thought about an alternative heat source, I figure I want to insulate the floor anyways and to run some loops it’s not overly expensive so I was going to do that then see how much I use it/need to heat it and if I want to I have loops to do the infloor heat.. was going to run it off a Hwt not a boiler. So that helps with cost.
Thanks for the input!
mx_corbeil
New member
What a great thread this is! I am planning a 30x40 garage build in Timmins Ontario this summer and I need some ideas for stairs into my loft! For some reason i can't see this pictures, can someone send me them?
imjustdave
Well-known member
I know your plan approved but if you can go wider I would consider it. 32 outside is about 30 inside, sounds big but throw a car or truck open doors and your maxed out, width wise pretty quick especially if you have anything on the wall and I know you want a lift so that will take space. I suspect no one mentioned it prior as we assumed you were doors on the long side. Knowing that your doors are on the short side now, I suspect some would speak up.
I'm doing plans right now doors on short side as well like you and been looking at dimensions a bunch I know I basically get 1 chance with my build so will be trying to go as wide as I can without hurting the look of my home.
I'm doing plans right now doors on short side as well like you and been looking at dimensions a bunch I know I basically get 1 chance with my build so will be trying to go as wide as I can without hurting the look of my home.
TTMotorsports
Well-known member
Yeah I assumed 5” will be fine for me.. thx
Appreciate the insight, I actually started at 28’ then 30’ now 32’ lol. I plan on parking my truck in one bay and if I park closer to the middle I have enough room to fully open doors etc. Yes if I had stuff along that wall where the door is it will be in the way. Other side will be atv with plow in winter and a summer car in summer . Hoist will be in front of the right bay so you can park something while not using the hoist.
I do agree another 2’ would be helpful but I’m already maxed out on my permitted floor area. Hopefully the loft will store a lot of stuff as well as tall walls I can build shelves high up.
