Input on plan 40x60x12

[NWAngle1966]

Hello. In process of planning a 40x60x12 stick built shed. Max roof line high point is 20’ due to zoning. Would like to do attic trusses for extra storage. Located in Minnesota. My use is parking and storage for pickup, trailers, and boats, along with Bobcat and ATv and misc toys. Also for tinkering and getting out of the house space….Planning on floor heat. Will have open storage and will wall off the workshop area and have small bathroom . Thinking overhead doors on gable end. Trying to max out space and not create floor plan to constantly move things around and out of the way.

Anyone with plans or pictures of similar builds?

 

[Codyboy]

Thats a lot of stuff to go inside a 40x60 and leave room for tinkering. Add in a bathroom and a wall and I think you'll see 40x60 is not very big at all.
I put my doors on the eave sides. Front and back.
Two of them line up for pull through. In the front and drive out the back.
I can do it with the other two doors but would have to zig then zag.

I would do at least a 14' wall height too with 12 ft doors.
12ft wall will give you what, 10ft doors?

 

[carcruse]

Make your walls a little more than 12' high if you plan on installing a lift. I went with 2x6 studs the top and bottom plates added another 4.5". They set on the footing, the top on which is 6" above the floor. This gives me 12'-10/1/2" floor to ceiling which is just barely enough clearance for my Bendpak 2-post.

Also, for security reasons, I did not want any doors on the back side of the building, so I added a 9' wide side door. That works great for getting the ATV's, riding mower, etc. in and out plus a car, when need be. Single main door is 18'x10'.

 

[NWAngle1966]

Thats a lot of stuff to go inside a 40x60 and leave room for tinkering. Add in a bathroom and a wall and I think you'll see 40x60 is not very big at all.
I put my doors on the eave sides. Front and back.
Two of them line up for pull through. In the front and drive out the back.
I can do it with the other two doors but would have to zig then zag.

I would do at least a 14' wall height too with 12 ft doors.
12ft wall will give you what, 10ft doors?

Yes. 10’ doors. I’d like to go taller, but I don’t think I can get them in with the overall 20 foot height restriction.

 

[Codyboy]

What type roof are you using and what is the pitch?
3.5/12 would roughly be 6 ft from top plate to the peak assuming the gables would be on the 40ft end . 14ft plate + 6 ft rise =20ft. peak height.

The google says 2/12 is minimum for a comp roof. Seems low to me. 3/12 is as low as I would go personally with shingles.

 

[carlaisle]

Does the building need to be clear span to suit your needs? A low pitched roof will give you significantly more usable space upstairs. Since you are height limited, a basement under the main level can add a large amount of space if the topography and budget allow.

 

[ericm]

More doors means less jockeying vehicles and projects around. But also more air leakage. Unless you have a nice flat site with nothing around it, door position may depend on the site layout.

 

[NWAngle1966]

What type roof are you using and what is the pitch?
3.5/12 would roughly be 6 ft from top plate to the peak assuming the gables would be on the 40ft end . 14ft plate + 6 ft rise =20ft. peak height.

The google says 2/12 is minimum for a comp roof. Seems low to me. 3/12 is as low as I would go personally with shingles.

Yes. Shingled roof is the plan.

 

[carcruse]

As I mentioned in earlier post, from the floor to the bottom of the truss I have 12'-10 1/2". Instead of and attic truss, I used a "spread web storage truss". they gave me plenty of storage, cheaper than attic truss and keep my roof high point under 20.

 

[finn]

Storage trusses are a waste of money. They just attract clutter that should be trashed, and are inconvenient unless you build proper stairs. Better to spend the money on a slightly larger footprint, if zoning allows. I haven’t been in my attic storage loft in years.

Go with 14 or 16’ eave height if at all possible, so you can install taller doors, and put the doors on the gable end if you get any snow. Eave side doors are a hassle if you live in a snow zone.

One easy way to get additional eave height is to lay down three courses of block to raise the bottom plate above the slab. I used split faced block and it makes the building a little less industrial, if that matters to you. Keeps the plate dry, too.

 

[dcg9381]

1) make sure the foundation sits well above the associated dirt.
2) Consider drainage
3) I like using "rat lips" on the foundation to make sure the siding is below the floor, but not necessary for traditional builds without R-panel.
4) Metal roof (screw on) if you can afford it.
5) Have 1" cuts in the concrete for garage doors, that way no water comes in from the doors. Don't let your concrete guy miss these.

Doors generally need 2'. So if your eve is 12', you get a 10' door.

Roof slope here isn't a huge issue (no snow loads). But those "standard" trusses may make attic space difficult. You could go to a scissor truss for a little more headroom (for a lift) but you lose the attic. 12' is too low to get a mezzanine in there if you want to stand up.

My other standard comments are run electrical conduit, at least 1-1/4 from one side to the other in the foundation. I'd do 3 runs of this. Makes it easy to get electrical (or stuff PEX in) and get both to the other side of the shop without having to go "around" the building or through the trusses.

3" "exit" conduit in all 4 corners. If you're bringing data in, you'll want multiple of these in the same spot.

Good luck.

 

[Hooked]

Regarding the 1" cutouts for the doors, I had my concrete guy slope the slab at the doors which serves the same purpose and makes it easier to roll things in/out the door.
I would also suggest adding a lean to/overhang along the walls with the garage doors. I regret not doing this on my building since it would be nice to leave the doors open when it rains and the wind is blowing.

 

[puttinonthekritz]

NW, I did a 46x46x14 with a loft above the entire length of the building. Mine is a 2x8 stick built, 24"oc on a block frost wall foundation. It has a dedicated 4ft wide stairwell going up to a 20ft wide by 46ft loft with an 8ft ceiling height, no low knee wall height. However, my roof pitch is an 8/12. 'Standard' attic truss design. I use it all the time, and glad I did. My cost incurrent was around 5k for the additional cost of the attic truss vs 'standard', the 3/4 advantech subfloor and the LVL stair stringers, and associated stair lumber. Beats an outdoor storage shed at that size. Bathroom is under the stairwell. I have an 18w x 12h double garage door and a single 12x12. In floor heat, as I'm in Minnesota also. Make sure you look up StegoWrap 15mil as a floor vapor barrier. I think worth the extra cost vs box store plastic. Never any slab sweat even on the worst Minnesota humid days.

Highly recommend floor drains even with floor heat. This way bulk water has a place to go and not create additional moisture. My floors slope to drains, not to doors. Otherwise they could freeze shut to a certain degree.

My garage doors are on the eve side of the roof, 3ft overhangs and gutters. Never any issues with snow falling in front of the doors. I also have a shingled roof, and with my roof being an 8/12 and south facing it melts quickly anyway.