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Inside the Honda EU2000i

LG63

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I have a friend that’s considering selling his EU2000i generator. We’ve been talking about a labor/cash trade for a while and lately he sounds more serious about letting it go. I know this model has a good reputation and it’s a low hour unit so it’s not a very risky deal, I’m just not sure it’s the generator for me. I got the first close look at it last night and now have a better appreciation for why these things sell for $1000 new. Seeing everything that’s packed in that little case it looks like something designed by Pratt & Whitney. As near as I can tell it looks like the generator runs off of the fan end of the engine and what would normally be the shaft end of the engine is just plugged off and covered by the muffler. It also looks like instead of the usual tin air shroud, Honda uses an aluminum casting to direct the air around the cylinder, I suppose for sound deadening. It’s definitely a well thought out design, I can see why they are so popular.

I have a perfectly good Homelite generator that I can use for an extended outage but it’s loud and heavy so it would be nice to have the Honda to handle some light loads during a short outage. When I put the Homelite up after use I always drain it dry of fuel, and by that I mean bone dry. I get every last drop out of the tank, lines, and carb. I know most people just use stabilizer but this method works well for me and if I was to get the Honda I would want to do something similar. Here’s the reason for my post. It looks like the Honda has a vacuum driven fuel pump?? Right above the ON-OFF switch there’s a pod with two lines going to it. I’m thinking one is a fuel line and one is vacuum? If this is the case it looks like it could be hard to totally purge it of gas. I don’t see a convenient way to drain the tank either. Probably messy to tip on its side so I guess that means siphoning it out.

I’d appreciate some input for EU2000i owners.
 
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Red Green

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I have had one for 3 years now. I never do anything to it just shut it off when I am done. It has sat for the whole winter twice and didn't have a problem starting it in the spring when I took it to the race track.

I made a extended run tank out of a spare gas cap and a 6 gallon boat tank. That way I don't have to get up in the middle of the night to fill it up when camping.
 

RKA

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I've had one for a few years. I turn it upside down to drain the tank (funnel + gas can = no mess), start it up and let it run dry. No issues with this routine so far. It takes a good 10 or so pulls to prime the lines and then it starts without any drama. From the sounds of it, you'll be happier following the factory procedure.
 

Bkf350SD

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Pretty sure they have the drain, with a hose to drain the bowl of the carb, although you would have to siphon the gas out of the tank.
 

rlitman

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I have the 1000, and I believe the 2000 is similar in design. The On/Off switch cuts off fuel to the carb. So shutting it off will lower the fuel level in the carb as the engine stalls, but not totally drain it.
Open the panel, and the carb is in plain sight near the top. There is a clear line running from the bowl to an opening under the panel cover. Just loosen the screw, and that opens a needle valve in the bottom of the bowl, and drains the fuel.
I usually pull the hose from the hole, and put it into a bottle as I empty the carb.
 

mikefromme

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I had the eu1000 same fuel pump design op described. I let mine sit for too long after draining the carb. And had the fuel pump gum up. Total pia to get at it to clean it out. Also had the inside of the gas cap vent rust out and fill the tank with ****.
 
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LG63

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Thanks Guns for posting the manual link. I didn't realize it had a bowl drain. Surprised to see this thing spins at 4300-5000 rpm.
 

SpeedCoach

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I"ve had my twins for 4 years now. I do run a fuel stabilizer b/c i've had a carb plug up in what i thought was pretty short order the first year i had them. as far as storage goes...since all gas that goes in it now has stabilizer, I just change the oil, open the carb drain, and put 'em away. I'll try to fire them up every once in a while during the winter, but i'm not particularly sure how necessary that is.
 

theoldwizard1

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It looks like the Honda has a vacuum driven fuel pump?? Right above the ON-OFF switch there’s a pod with two lines going to it. I’m thinking one is a fuel line and one is vacuum?
Small engine fuel pumps are typically vacuum operated and have 3 lines (hoses). One is the inlet from the tank, one is the outlet to the carb and the third is the "pulse"/vacuum line. This would typically connect to the air cleaner/PVC (including valve cover on OHC engines).

The inlet to the fuel pump would be after the fuel shut off so turning the fuel off and running it dry will get the fuel out of the pump and carb bowl.

Fuel pumps are only used on small engine if they have remote fuel tanks or on some older ones where they need the pressure to prevent vapor lock in the fuel line.
 

SpeedCoach

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here's a picture from the shop manual showing the fuel pump:

ScreenShot2012-12-01at92056AM.png


these can go kaput on you, but mines got several hundred hours on it now with no signs of waning. but they're easily attainable. The nice part about the EU2 having a fuel pump (the EU3 does not have a pump) is that it makes it very easy to attach an external fuel tank to really extend the run time....its one of the best mods i've made on anything i own.
9.jpg
 
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LG63

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The nice part about the EU2 having a fuel pump (the EU3 does not have a pump) is that it makes it very easy to attach an external fuel tank to really extend the run time....its one of the best mods i've made on anything i own.
9.jpg

I like it! Honda really thought of everything. Where did you score your shop manual?
 

SpeedCoach

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I got the manual from somebody on an RV forum back when i got the twins. I'll happily email it to anyone who PM's me their email address.
 

ecally

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I've had my EU2000i for 2 years now. I love it. It is powerful enough to run my gas powered forced air furnace, my refrigerator, my tv and laptop and wifi, lights etc - just not all at the same time.

I use a $5 siphon (the kind used for filling kerosene heaters) when I'm done, which drains most of the fuel out. I then start it and run it out of gas which takes just a few minutes. I then drain the carb bowl which is very easy due to the drain plug and tubing. While I have the drain nut open I crank over the engine a few times - I'm not 100% sure but I think if you have it in the 'On' position it will drive remaining gas through the pump and out the carb (just pull the spark plug wire). I've not had any problems with bad fuel.

It is lightweight, fuel efficient, quiet, and as pointed out above can be combined with another EU2000.
 

rlitman

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When putting an engine away, I also always pull the cord slowly until I feel a little compression. That closes the valves.
 

Andy Griffith

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We like our little Honda. It works good for my wife as she can move it and start it if the power fails and I'm not home to start up the big gen.

IMG_2399-M.jpg
 
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Dieselbutterfly

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here's a picture from the shop manual showing the fuel pump:

ScreenShot2012-12-01at92056AM.png


these can go kaput on you, but mines got several hundred hours on it now with no signs of waning. but they're easily attainable. The nice part about the EU2 having a fuel pump (the EU3 does not have a pump) is that it makes it very easy to attach an external fuel tank to really extend the run time....its one of the best mods i've made on anything i own.
9.jpg
that is a kickass setup,is it something you fabbed,or does honda offer it?
 

mobiledynamics

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SpeedCoach -

What method did you use to seal you fitting onto your caps.

I've got a extended run tank project myself.
I do plan to the use the *usual* quick disconnect fitting on a OEM cap.

Not sure which way I will skin this though.

It may be fitting right into the cap with a O Ring, Washer, and then a double ended 1/4" coupler to snug it up underneath.

& or similar setup except I might do a 90 block off the top of the cap and have the quick disconnect fitting going sideways. Still debating the evils between both...

I know the KEY is to get a airtight fitting on the cap though
 

SpeedCoach

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Diesel butterfly - I made it myself. There's off the shelf versions of it as well (an earlier poster put a picture of the single-gen version.

Mobile dynamics. Ill try to find a thread I posted on another forum to get the details, but all I've got on it is a rubber washer scrunched under the fitting. I'm not sure it was really necessary, as the hole I drilled for those fittings was very tight...I think threading it in had it sealed well enough. But they've been good from the get go. The longest ie gone is 5 consecutive days with it....but it's been flawless.

You're correct, airtight is key. My dad made a version of this as well for his gens with the billet caps available on eBay and had a hell of a time making his airtight. (I think he got a bad cap though). Ill hunt down some details and get back to you
 

SpeedCoach

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Ok, found it. From the tank up there's nothing to it. Boat tank, a quick connect. Some fuel hose, filter, and a tee to run lines to each gen. At the cap is where it happens. I ordered two stock replacement caps.

Remove the vent assembly from each
1.jpg


I then centered them in my drill press (a 21/64 bit fits stock hole perfectly to center it up). Drilled it out with a 23/64 bit.
2.jpg


Next is the fitting part 2GUJ7 from grainger (I didn't end up using the nut)
3.jpg


Then I just threaded it into the cap. It was very tight, but again, I did use a rubber washer (neoprene in actuality)
4.jpg


From below
5.jpg


And that's pretty much it. I've seen quick connects at the caps, but I just push the fuel line on and off when using it. I should also point out that I did add a small section of fuel line inside the cap that hangs down into the gas. I'm told this doesn't matter, but I did it anyway. Also no primer is used. Takes about an hour of run time, but the fuel does eventually fill the lines amd away she goes.
 
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LG63

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Ok, found it. From the tank up there's nothing to it. Boat tank, a quick connect. Some fuel hose, filter, and a tee to run lines to each gen. At the cap is where it happens. I ordered two stock replacement caps.

Based on seeing the aluminum aftermarket caps and factory cap modifications like this, I'm guessing Honda won't sell the extended run cap separate from the entire kit?
 

SpeedCoach

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To my knowledge Honda doesn't offer such a thing. It's pretty much the aluminum version, or modify a stock cap like I did
 
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LG63

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To my knowledge Honda doesn't offer such a thing. It's pretty much the aluminum version, or modify a stock cap like I did

Thanks.....after a few google searches I realized I was looking for something that didn't exist.
 

mobiledynamics

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For all intents and purposes, I feel plastic thread on plastic cap, with the cap gasket + *well done* sealed hole where you put your *inlet* is the best bet.

Interesting read Speedcoach. I am curious. With no bulb, how long does it take to get the system going from the aux tank to the hoses.. I assume you must have at least some fuel to get the engine going. Or is it just the fuel in the carb good enough.
 

SpeedCoach

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I always start with the internal tanks full. Like I said, from there after about an hour they'll then have started drawing fuel up through the external tank. The overall level of the internal tank doesn't drop much once fuel gets drawn in. This gives you a little "reserve" - if your external runs dry (because you forgot to refill it or whatever), you've basically then got full internal tanks to hold you over or keep you going a bit longer
 

mobiledynamics

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I gotta commend you on Cost.
Without all the *sprinkles* on the cupcake, no QD's, etc - it's a fairly inexpensive MOD that goes a long ways

For me, I'm doing the whole QD route with a T, and the T will also have a 1/4 M/F QD coupler on the hose. This will allow me to use 1 tank or 2 with no suction issues. Much more complicated and bulky in comparison.
 

SpeedCoach

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Haha - I built provisions for single gen operation into mine. I fold the 2nd branch of fuel line over on itself and zip tie it good and tight! ;-)
 
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LG63

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I gotta commend you on Cost.
Without all the *sprinkles* on the cupcake, no QD's, etc - it's a fairly inexpensive MOD that goes a long ways

For me, I'm doing the whole QD route with a T, and the T will also have a 1/4 M/F QD coupler on the hose. This will allow me to use 1 tank or 2 with no suction issues. Much more complicated and bulky in comparison.

Just be sure your quick disconnects have Buna or Viton seals for use with gasoline. I have QD's on my big generator and I used straight through couplers that use standard O-ring seals so replacement is easy. I believe they are made by Hansen.
 

aj3006

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I've got a pair of the 2000s I set up mine with a tri-fuel kit and run them
on propane works great I have also got a manual from E bay and they
have even sent me free updates to it I believe it was a honda store
 

Avplayer

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Just came across this thread. My 10 yr old eu2000i is having starting issues. Suspecting the fuel pump. Starts up easily when gas is poured direct into to carb. Anyone else have this issue?

Love the gas cap mod!!!
 

t4runner

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It could be the carb I had the hard to start, wouldn't stay running, no start problem also. I need up replacing mine. I had rebuilt it several times over the years even though it has a drain and I always drained it when I was done. it still was corroded inside most likely due to ethanol.
 

rustyjames

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I've got an EU2000 that's a bear to start after sitting for awhile. I bought it about 4 years ago and it doesn't have much use. I change the gas every 6 months or so and use stabilizer. It always starts but takes a lot of pulls.
 

Showkey

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I've got an EU2000 that's a bear to start after sitting for awhile. I bought it about 4 years ago and it doesn't have much use. I change the gas every 6 months or so and use stabilizer. It always starts but takes a lot of pulls.

Are you manually draining the carb ??? The small amount of fuel in the carb can go bad even with stabilizer.
Even if you drain the carb.........it will take multiple pulls to refill the carb after storage.
 

rlitman

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Even if you drain the carb.........it will take multiple pulls to refill the carb after storage.


Especially when I drain the carb. Because this uses a fuel pump, it doesn't self prime the carb with gravity. Even choked, it takes a bunch of pulls to get the pump to move enough fuel to re-prime the carb.
 
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