Install Big Maxx Vertical vs Horizontal venting?

[crowwinger]

Now that I am going vertical, does that mean I can switch to Type B?

Yes, if you go vertical you can go type B and it gets much cheaper.

I was the opposite of you, I had purchased all type-B to go vertical, then changed my mind after I got into it to go horizontal. I had purchased the Amerivent double wall stuff from Menards - they have a nice isle of these parts dedicated to heater installs:
https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...06-c-9462.htm?tid=-2669529384284644818&ipos=4

 

[penright]

I bought the 4" z-flex kit for horizontal venting. Now I am going Vertical.

Here is what I bought.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Z-FLEX-2ZVWB04-4-Z-Vent-Water-Heater-Horizontal-Vent-Kit-w-Backflow-4935000-p?gclid=CjwKCAiArIH_BRB2EiwALfbH1NtVJfKWlMv4trQ4mdefMCDsVK6-kmxq1MOMP1QjxJJGqdFpkpHvaxoCVD8QAvD_BwE


Includes:
(1) Termination Hood
(1) 4" x 90 Elbow
(1) 4" x 1.5' pipe (1) 4" x 1' pipe
(1) Wall Thimble
(1) Universal appliance adapter with backflow preventer

Since the roof is metal, I assume I do not need the thimble. So the transition, the 90, and maybe just the long straight will have to see more when it is sticking out of the roof.


My question is on the vent cap. I need to find a vent cap for vertical, will this one work?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Selkirk-4-in-x-8-in-x-4-1-2-in-dia-Galvanized-Cap-Fittings/1000068691

The 4 in. steel round gas vent top is a type B, galvanized-steel fitting that helps prevent rain and debris from entering the vent. It is not for use with wood-burning applications. The end is die-formed for uniform sizing and a strong, easy-to-connect joint. The cap is tested and UL listed for safety in accordance with nape standards.
Warranty period is 15 years from the date of installation, when used for venting AGA listed category II, III or IV gas heating equipment or water heaters in residential appliances

Metalizations gas vent fittings have been tested and listed per UL 441 for installation as a type B and B-W gas vents to be installed in single and multi-story buildings in accordance with the standards of the national fire protection association

Top is used to protect from birds and weather
Lifetime limited warranty
Lock tab-an alternative method to secure pipe whee required by local code
Outer material 28 gauge galvanized steel
Inner liner is aluminum
Check appliance installation instructions for details
Industry best warranty contact Selkirk for details

Since it is outside, I assume it will work (Type B), and can you screw it to the vent?

 

[allinon72]

Yes it will work and yes you can screw it to the vent.

 

[penright]

Yes it will work and yes you can screw it to the vent.

Thanks.

 

[penright]

It's a Christmas miracle!!!!

Elves in the middle of the night stuck it up there.

So thankful to my son-in-law and grandson.


I did do power it up on the ground first. The thermostat had R/W terminals after popping the top off. But those are not the ones you use, you have to unscrew them, the thermostat then splits again and the "real" R/W/G are then exposed. Took a couple of fuses to learn that lesson.

So now I need to finish the power, run the vent, and gas. The plumber will run the gas once I am ready. I want it ready so when he is finished we can light it off. I have power capped off in the light, I just need to run some MC between it and the box I mounted on the bracket.

For the vent, that leads me to a couple of questions. Well, not so much question as to see if I am on the right track. It is not easy for me to cut a hole in my roof.

I put the bracket up before mounting the heater, and based on the bracket I welded on, I have a pretty good idea of where the vent will go. So I cut the insulation and then played with the position. I wanted it far enough away from the rake trim. The corrugated pattern is a large flat spot between 1 1/4" peaks.

Edit
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Forgot this picture.

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Those pictures were just me mocking it up on the side of the building. I think I got it where the pipe will come up through a relatively flat spot. And far enough from the trim so the boot will not have to go over the trim. My fear was that it might create a dam and the rain could get in. But in reality, I don't think that possible. It looks like it would have to go too far up the hill.

That's my plan for the vent. If anyone sees any issues, let me know.

 

[penright]

I was willing to try anything at the time to just get it done without a return

I pull the adapter off. Side note, it hard for me to say adapter without think of Johnny Cash, "One Part At a Time".

You know I think we will be fine. The adapter is fit's pretty loose and it does not have a gasket.

I would not change what you did, but for anyone else stumbling across this thread. I found if you pull the adapter off. The reason, it's hard to get it over the gasket and I was afraid that I would break something. Also, lesson learn, be sure you clock the damper before putting it in. Once in, it is hard to get out. I was afraid of ripping the gasket, so I just put a new hole. Maybe more than one. . Again, I think it's fine, the factory has more than one hole. Then I was able to move the clamp to the inside.

When flush, the adapter is well over the first part of the gasket and almost over the second.

And in the words of that master wordsmith Maxwell Smart. "Missed it by that much".

I guess it will be perfect "with the help of a adapter kit"

 

[crowwinger]

Very clever solution... it is looking great! With your humor now kicking in, I know you can see the burner lights at the end of the tunnel

It has finally started to get colder up here in MN and I'm appreciating having the heater even more. My only new "idea" is that I have a high point in the garage near the house door that is collecting more heat than I hoped. Contemplating a ceiling fan to push it down and improve circulation. Let me know how things go with your high ceilings.

 

[penright]

After a long and winding road, I can now get back to the topic of the thread. I went with a vertical. I was going horizontal because I thought it would be easiest. I also thought it would be less chance of water penetration. I don't think that's the case all the time and it was not for me. My outside wall/roof is corrugated metal. So flashing was the same either way. The wall would have taken some sort of J-channel. Ultimately what changes my mind was a video showing a boot that would flex. Sealing wise, I would have been better off using a square instead of the round boot, but the size and how close I was to the edge was why I went with what I did. We will see what happens after the next heavy rain.

The other big reason for going vertical was to hide the boot from the front/street. After seeing how bright the orange is, that would have been very noticeable coming out the side. Which on one hand being an alum from America's brightest orange, GO POKES!, would have been ok with me, my wife's approval is higher going vertical.

One other thing that caught me by surprise, I bought stainless steel screws as per the boot manufacture's suggestion. The self-tapping would not drill into the metal. I had to use zinc plated self-tapping to start the hole. I would have thought that stainless would have been harder more like a drill bit.

I used some flex-wrap to seal the hole. I cut the pieces too long, as I was bending around the vent, it really stretches.

Now, just waiting for the plumber to do the gas.

The pretty side first ...

Not so pretty ...

There was some frost on the roof. After wiping off around where I was working, is why it looks funny around the vent.

 

[dswensen]

Got the OK from the builder to hang from the purlin.
One more question before I pull the trigger on the unit.
I was quoted a 45K. I was looking at 50K, then as was mentioned in this thread, for startup and recovery maybe goto an 80K. I have the room and can afford it.

Just out of curiosity, I searched for how to calculate the size.
The formula was (cubic feet * insulating factor)/1.6
If that is right I am 25 x30. The wall, to the bottom of the truss, is 10' so to do my calculations, I used 11' just avg out the truss area, and that may be a little low.
So my cubic feet is 25' x 30' x 11' = 8250 cubic feet. I have pretty good insulation, but being some conserved, let's say it is 1. Here in OK, let's say it is 30 outside and I want 50, would that be a rise of 30 degrees?
That is 247K. Is that right? So dividing by 1.6 is about 154K.

I hope there is something I am doing wrong here. Bad assumptions?

I have a different situation, but have a similar question. My garage is 22X24X9.5 and I estimated the insulation to be around 1. I was hoping for a 35 degree rise as I will be dealing with cold MN winters. That puts the number of BTUs right around 110,000. That is much higher than the two quotes I received for installing a 45,000 BTU unit heater.

 

[penright]

I have a different situation, but have a similar question. My garage is 22X24X9.5 and I estimated the insulation to be around 1. I was hoping for a 35 degree rise as I will be dealing with cold MN winters. That puts the number of BTUs right around 110,000. That is much higher than the two quotes I received for installing a 45,000 BTU unit heater.

I am not sure about the formula. I am sure it is right, but I wonder if we are handling the fudge factor for insulation correctly.

I had the advantage of owning a 22,000 btu kerosene. So I know what 22,000 can do and doubling that should be fine for me. The 22K will warm up the shop but takes about 45-60 minutes. Since I could get the 80K on black Friday for a delta of about $80-100$ why not, otherwise for OK I think the 45K would work.

If you have access to a known size portable heater that you can test with, it might help with your decision.

 

[penright]

Will you have heat before winter?

The plumber finally came out yesterday. Last night I had heat. Of course, things will be warmer in OK this weekend, but it did light up. He had work backed up and I still had my kerosene heater, so I did not push. But now that is done, I am very, very excited. I going to make a cover for the vertical part of the gas pipe. Also, I will be installing some pegboard and that will cover the pipe laying on the girts.

First the money shot...

Here is a scrap piece trying to visualize it. I will drill small holes so I can reach through the top and screw it to the other piece of C-channel.

 

[crowwinger]

Looks really nice - congrats!

Funny how these seamingly simple jobs end up being so big... mine all started with seeing the heater on sale at Northern and impulse buying without much forethought. That was by far the easiest step haha