Install Garage Door with Low headroom Track--Modifications

[paredown]

Install Garage Door with Low headroom Track--Modifications?

I have posted a long time ago about my crazy garage door project--and I am finally back on it after living with doors tacked in place for quite a while now.

My problem--this house was built with a very high door to fit with the 60s modern look.

I cleaned up and reframed the openings to standard 8'h x 10'w (maintaining the the style of the original--and beefing up the header/jacks in the opening that had been added). I then purchased a set of nearly new 8x10 wood doors with all hardware (track and openers) thinking I was all set--and then I figured out the install was not straight forward.

An 8' door has effectively put me into low headroom territory. Ceiling is now insulated and finished (so I could use it as my workshop), and I have only 106 3/8" floor to ceiling (at low point) measured off the concrete floor.

What came with the doors is also 15" radius track, so that pushes me further into low headroom territory. If I set the verticals (with attached flags), and set the curved sections in place--there is barely 2.5" from center of track to ceiling.

The two estimates that I got were going to use most of what I have on hand, but convert to low headroom track.

So my first question is--can you shorten the existing uprights (detach the welded flags and purchase new ones if I have to) and attach the Clopay low headroom kit on top? I think that is what I understood the installers were planning to do.

The second part of my plan--use the SuperSneaky bracket kit to lower the spring bar.

 

[rjacobs]

Will the door open at all with the track "as is"?

Are you trying to install a side mount opener?

 

[paredown]

Will the door open at all with the track "as is"?

Are you trying to install a side mount opener?

No side mount, I think. I originally thought so, but as far as I gleaned from the Liftmaster materials--they don't recommend it for low clearance installs, especially if you use any kind of quick turn bracket--which is effectively what the SuperSneaky is. For now, I would be happy with doors that opened manually--since i still have to figure out if there is enough total length to get the two opposing openers in place.

And no, the doors are only tacked in place so what you see has never been operational. The original door/track was an completely beat wood door that was an odd size so it all went in the bin. For the original, they had installed low clearance (double track) but then used only the bottom (one estimator said he'd never seen the like) and then butchered one of the joists to get it to clear...

 

[Chevy-SS]

I had similar situation years ago. If I recall, there were two tracks on top. The very top track contained the very top roller, and the track underneath took the rest of the rollers. My door setup was like yours, VERY tight.

Get the right parts and you can make that work.

 

[paredown]

I had similar situation years ago. If I recall, there were two tracks on top. The very top track contained the very top roller, and the track underneath took the rest of the rollers. My door setup was like yours, VERY tight.

Get the right parts and you can make that work.

Yes. But first I have to identify what I need. I was on the DDM site (one of the few places that seem willing to provide information for DIY)--a complete set of double track horizontal pieces is listed at more that $500----and I would still not be sure that it would work.

If I can shorten my existing verticals, and add the Clopay kit for low headroom, Home Depot sells that for a mere $80--and I like that a lot better.

The two projects that I have found the hardest to DIY are this garage door--and the HVAC that needs doing--just not much information. If it were a standard install, the door would have been easy to figure out, but this one is a head-scratcher to someone with virtually no garage door experience (except a little maintenance/adjustment in past houses.)

 

[firebirdparts]

You've got plenty of room for a Clopay low headroom kit. In fact, there are 3 styles, and you've got room for any of the three. They're not rocket science. It's not like there's some reason the door won't work with a low headroom kit.

However: If you absolutely can't get the torsion springs mounted up there in the space available, you might have to convert to extension springs. You didn't really mention your springs. I don't think that is likely, but I do see that the clopay kit has the flag brackets too low. Again, it's not rocket science. The springs, wherever they are, just have to exist where they belong and work.

 

[paredown]

You've got plenty of room for a Clopay low headroom kit. In fact, there are 3 styles, and you've got room for any of the three. They're not rocket science. It's not like there's some reason the door won't work with a low headroom kit.

However: If you absolutely can't get the torsion springs mounted up there in the space available, you might have to convert to extension springs. You didn't really mention your springs. I don't think that is likely, but I do see that the clopay kit has the flag brackets too low. Again, it's not rocket science. The springs, wherever they are, just have to exist where they belong and work.

Sorry--I did forget to mention that the used kit came with front mount torsion springs. And the idea behind the SuperSneaky bracket kit is that it lets you lower the torsion bar mount so that should work.

And yes, I agree that I am within the range that Clopay suggests for low headroom/double track--but I am confused about the hardware--or more accurately-- how I adapt what I have.

So would you cut the verticals to use the Clopay kit?

The reason I ask is that their pictures show it attaching above the existing track--which clearly won't work with the vertical/15" horizontal I already have. The kit only includes the upper track marked in red below.

 

[paredown]

OK--when in doubt, RTFM.

Clopay says this:

Step 2
Refer to Table 1 to determine the reduced vertical
track length. Measure and remove excess length
from the top of the vertical track. (FIG. 3) Two 1
⁄4"
diameter holes need to be redrilled at the top of the
vertical track. These two holes are used to attach
the vertical track to the flag bracket. If there is a
clearance problem, it may be necessary to cut 3"
off the top of the flag bracket. (FIG. 3)

And I will have to figure out a way to reattach the flag brackets (or purchase new predrilled ones) since my verticals have them spot-welded on...

 

[dfiler2]

Check these out first, I used them a couple of years ago and they worked great.

https://www.supersneaky.com/residential/

watch the video

 

[paredown]

Check these out first, I used them a couple of years ago and they worked great.

https://www.supersneaky.com/residential/

watch the video

Yes--I plan to use those as well as I mentioned--but I don't think I have enough clearance for the door to clear the ceiling without the low headroom double track. (I found their videos the last time I thought I had time to tackle the door install.)

I've emailed my details to them to see what their recommendations are though--so if they think I can get away with using the single track and just their brackets I would be delighted.

I'll wait for a response from them before I start cutting--I have lots of other projects to finish!

 

[dfiler2]

If you use the low headroom kit you will need to cut off your existing track to make room for it, it will also keep your door from opening all the way. I will be at the garage door I installed them on this Saturday, I will look to see where the door travels and take a pic or two.

 

[paredown]

If you use the low headroom kit you will need to cut off your existing track to make room for it, it will also keep your door from opening all the way. I will be at the garage door I installed them on this Saturday, I will look to see where the door travels and take a pic or two.

Thanks for the kind offer. The SuperSneaky bracket is designed expressly so the door opens all the way, leaving the opening clear--what I don't know yet is if this is true with the double track install.

If I can cheat a little with the standard track?? Either way, the 8' opening--even with the door down a little--is high enough for anything I'm doing--mostly I'm just trying to make it easier to get material in and out, since we are moving into the section of the house that the garage is attached to, and I'm trying to consolidate the construction part of things to the garage--small though it is.

 

[Chevy-SS]

...

The reason I ask is that their pictures show it attaching above the existing track--which clearly won't work with the vertical/15" horizontal I already have. The kit only includes the upper track marked in red below.

I had exactly what your pic shows. I had extension springs that ran parallel to each of the top tracks (shown in red in your drawing). I had to cut and fit and carefully adjust everything.

I ended up using a screw type door opener, and it came out perfect. The only issues I ever had were the extension springs, those are some dangerous things, haha. They need to have a safety cable running through the middle of them, because when they snap, watch out!!

Seems like you're 'on the right track' to get this done. Good luck.