Install Liftmaster 3800 - remote light and smart control location

[joebk]

Hi there,

First post here. My 20 years old Sears garage door opener's motor started to smoke and I decided to get a Liftmaster 3800 for my 2-car attached garage door.


When figuring out where to install the 3800's remote light, I'm looking at the garage structure, and there is no ceiling.

So I wonder where to install the remote light since it's a separate unit from the 3800's main unit (motor) which attaches to the torsion bar.


There are only 2 ceiling joists that span across the two ends of the garage frame, and they are 8 feet apart.

The ideal spot I'd like to install is somewhat in the middle of the garage, which is between the two joists (4 feet from the two joists).



(see the 1x6 above in the middle where the old Sears opener hangs)


Option 1:
I located a support wood midway between the 2 ceiling joists --it's a 1x6 that's 2 feet higher than the ceiling joists (10 feet from the ground).

I figure I can install 2 L hooks and have the remote light fastened to the 1x6, but I don't know if it's ok or not.

Plus I'm not sure if the lighting is good enough from that spot that is 10 feet from the ground (instead of 8 feet).

Also, I'm not sure if replacing light bulbs 10 feet above ground would be a hassle in the future... .

Option 2:
I can add a ceiling joist midway (4 feet) between the 2 existing joists and install the light under this new ceiling joist.


Option 3:
I can add a 2x4 perpendicular to the 2 existing joists, and install the remote light under this 2x4.


Any other suggestions on the install location of the remote light?

------------

A 2nd question is that I wonder how to run the wiring from the 3800 unit to the door entrance to the house to install the smart controller.

I can basically run the wire along the framing,

but I wonder when I get to the top of the wall of the door entrance,


do I just run the wire down along the outside of the wall to the install location of the smart remote, or I'd run the wire inside the wall -- in that case it'd look nicer of course.

If so, I'd need to fish the wire down inside the wall to the spot that's close to the door knob.


Thx.

 

[pattenp]

My 3800 light is 12 feet up but my ceiling is sheetrock and painted white so the light is fine for what it's for. I placed the smart control straight below the powerhead on the wall and ran the wire down the garage door frame. I bought a wireless control to put on the wall by the entry door from the house.

 

[joebk]

Hi,

I've attached a picture of the garage attic area. See if the lighting would be enough (no ceiling).

Also if I do want to run the wire over (for the remote) instead of using a wireless control, would one of the 2 options I mentioned work?

Thx.

 

[pattenp]

The light will be fine. It's just meant to give you enough light to see when getting out of your car. The control can be placed where ever you want it, and you can run the wire in the wall or exposed. It's your choice. You could use wiremold to run the wire in if you want a cleaner look without fishing the wire inside the wall.

I'm surprised the ceiling is not drywalled since the garage is attached.

 

[joebk]

Thx for mentioning the wiremold idea. Perhaps I'll do just that.


If I do want to try fishing the wire down thru' inside of the drywall,

When fishing down the wire, do I need to first drill a hole thru' the top plate that's above the dry wall area where I'd be fishing down? If so, I'll need to stick the wire from a gap around a garage frame that's close to the roof (I'd be running the wire along a frame close to the roof) -- into the attic area inside the house -- and then I'd need to climb into the attic and from drill that hole thru' that top plate... .


I wonder also if the control wire is that thin -- if I should put some protective cover (e.g. using the wiremold, or some cord cover) around it even though it'd be inside the drywall? Just don't want it to be broken inside the wall if in the future I accidentally drill a hole thru' that wall... .


I have been thinking about adding the ceiling in the garage but it'd be a bit of work.
(This is a 55 years old house...)

 

[pattenp]

If you're worried about future damage in the wall I'd just use a piece of wiremold from the ceiling down to the control. It would be a lot easier. This is the wiremold I'd suggest because it's small diameter and cheap.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_61624-170-C...old&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=wire+mold&facetInfo=

 

[kartracer23]

Make sure you mount it past the edge of the door when it's open. When they first laid out my garage electrical, they had it too close to the front wall so when the door was up it was blocked. Not much use.

First thing I did was swap the bulbs to a 100 watt equivalent CFL. Much better light than what they came with (or my installer put in).

*If you're going to do wireless remotes, look on Amazon. We got one for the house (detached garage with no way to hard wire it) and 2 outside controllers for the same price my installer wanted for for just one.

Here you can see where mine is just past the tracks

And here are the openers. Mine are all wired through the walls.

 

[joebk]

Having that clean look w/ wires all in the wall is really nice.

I think I'm going to have to crawl into the attic inside the house to drill that hole down to drop the wire thru' inside the wall... .

 

[joebk]

Got the wiring going, and I'm about to push the 3800 into the torsion bar.

There's 5 inch of the bar after the drum, but I can't push the torsion bar end all the way into the 3800. There's a 1/4" gap between the side of the drum and the collar.


Then I realize there's a metal piece inside the 3800:



Perhaps that metal piece is preventing the torsion bar to go all the way in?

 

[joebk]

Anyone knows what to do to remove this gap due to the metal piece shown in the picture inside the Liftmaster 3800? It's pushing the unit out further (see pics).






(Picture 3)

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Sounds like you need to cut 1/4" off the end of your torsion bar...

 

[joebk]

** I wonder though, can I just install the 3800 unit at the current position? It's actually 1/2" gap between the collar and the drum. Would that be too much of a gap?


Because even if there's room to slide the 3800 over, there's only 1/2" for me to move over to the right,

and that position would be too close (I'd think?) to the mounting screw's position on the door track (see picture 3). It's a size 14 screw I'd be putting into to mount the 3800 unit according to the manual.


I wonder also if Liftmaster has a longer mounting bracket that reaches further out for another inch. That way I can use that same hole for the garage door track for both. That'd solve the problem for me.

 

[joebk]

Install Liftmaster 3800 - wiring door sensors

Talked to the LiftMaster tech support and the lady said that 1/2" gap between the unit and the drum was not a problem -- mainly there's enough of the torsion bar in the unit.

So I added a 2"x4" board behind to strengthen the support and drilled two holes to mount the 3800 unit at the current position.


Now I'm running the bell wires of the sensors.

Some wiring questions:

Is it better to run the wire above the ceiling (in the attic area) over to the 3800 main unit, or just below the ceiling (so the bell wire is visible)?

Aesthetically it seems obvious if the bell wire of the door sensor runs in the attic it's hidden from sight and it looks better when the ceiling is installed.


How about where the sensor is on the same side of the unit -- people just run the bell wire up along -- and outside the wall. Or, anyone would suggest to run the sensor bell wire on the same side inside the dry wall and straight up to the 3800 unit (and come back out from the wall) so looks better?

 

[pattenp]

Joe, I personally ran my wire inside the wall where ever possible. It just makes a neater install. Bottom line is do it which ever way makes you happy.

Edit: Oh and the 1/2" gap from the collar to the rod bearing is fine. I have the same size gap.

 

[jkeyser14]

If you wanted to go fancy you could also run the wiring behind some crown molding.

 

[rybow53]

I would rethink the liftmaster 3800.I had three installed by a professional garage door company along with 3 16' wide doors.1 door is 8'high,1 is 10'high and 1 is 11" high.After numerous attempts over a 2 year period to make them operate properly they replaced them with Genie Trilog 1500 screw drives .The 3800's turn the counterbalance(spring shaft)instead of pulling the door up.If the door is not perfectly adjusted the 3800 still will turn the shaft and cables come off etc. Having a door open and then come part way down and jam in zero degree weather is not fun.

 

[pattenp]

I would rethink the liftmaster 3800.I had three installed by a professional garage door company along with 3 16' wide doors.1 door is 8'high,1 is 10'high and 1 is 11" high.After numerous attempts over a 2 year period to make them operate properly they replaced them with Genie Trilog 1500 screw drives .The 3800's turn the counterbalance(spring shaft)instead of pulling the door up.If the door is not perfectly adjusted the 3800 still will turn the shaft and cables come off etc. Having a door open and then come part way down and jam in zero degree weather is not fun.

That is just so wrong. Who ever installed the doors and 3800's did not know what they were doing. The Liftmaster 3800 is one of the most popular and best quality openers on the market.

 

[rybow53]

No doubt the installing dealer has to know what they are doing.I'm just giving my two cents worth.The 3800's have a cable tension sensor that has to be adjusted correctly as well.One of my motor units also just quit working.Hummed when you tried to open the door.This is in a house that I still am finishing so they did not even get daily use.The dealer has put in numerous 3800 units so maybe I got a lemon or two.Like I said they are different in how they open the door and I still believe they are more sensitive to door adjustment/balance issues.The Genies I have now(installed by the same dealer) Have worked flawlessly for a year now.The only reason to get the 3800's is if the opener track is an issue for you.

 

[pattenp]

No doubt the installing dealer has to know what they are doing.I'm just giving my two cents worth.The 3800's have a cable tension sensor that has to be adjusted correctly as well.One of my motor units also just quit working.Hummed when you tried to open the door.This is in a house that I still am finishing so they did not even get daily use.The dealer has put in numerous 3800 units so maybe I got a lemon or two.Like I said they are different in how they open the door and I still believe they are more sensitive to door adjustment/balance issues.The Genies I have now(installed by the same dealer) Have worked flawlessly for a year now.The only reason to get the 3800's is if the opener track is an issue for you.

Not necessarily. Your experience with the 3800's is not typical and there must have been an underlying problem with the quality of the install of the doors and or opener. Bottom line is that you are satisfied with the solution the installer provided.

 

[joebk]

No drywall on that side of the garage yet so no need to conclude how to run the wires up to the unit. I did run the wire from the sensor that's on the other side away from the unit along (and fastened w/ wire clips) the underside of the edge of the rafters located above the torsion bar, so when a ceiling is installed one day the wire would not be seen.


I finally got the wires hooked up, programmed the unit and ran the garage door opener a couple of times last night.


The unit's motor was quiet and I really liked it. Although it seemed that when the door was going down along the track it wasn't totally smooth (going up was fine), and it the opener would stop its movement immediately.

I pressed the remote a couple of times, and finally the door went down -- it then got really stuck, and the door was tilted to one side. It now looks the door has a bump along the joint in one of the section. I'll need to find a way to tap that spot to make it look smooth again. :-(

The cable came out on one end afterward, and I guess I'll need to loosen up the drum and reset the cable again.

I'll probably spend sometime this Thxgiving holiday and hope to get it to work smoothly.

 

[joebk]

Quick update:

One side of the spring was broke for a while so perhaps the tensions weren't equal.

Hired a garage guy and installed new set of springs on the torsion bar. He was surprised I had the Liftmaster almost all installed (I didn't put in the door lock module yet).

He put the new springs in. Still had same problem w/ the door stuck while going downward. I suggested this only occurred when door was going down but ok going up. He immediately responded that might mean too much tension on the bar (tension from spring meant to assist when door goes up while the weight of the door moves itself down) so making the door difficult to go downward.

He turned the spring clockwise by 90 degrees, and sprayed lots of WD40 on the rollers. Afterward the problem was gone.

So far so good. The door is quiet and moves smoothly now. Keeping my fingers crossed!

 

[2001RedCoupeBandit]

I have 2 going in this week along with a high lift garage door conversion on 2 garage doors in my 3 car garage.