Installing 5/16" lag bolts into engineered I joists for hanging storage

[dockdoc]

Is this a bad idea? Picked up one of these hanging racks from Costco for the new garage. Plan to store off-season tupperware stuff up there, not a ton of weight. It's a 600# maximum.

Ceiling is constructed from engineered I joists, and there's a second floor above the garage (currently unfinished, but roughed in to be finished in the next 6 months or so).

The directions call for 5/16" lags to be drilled into the joists... but makes no mention of engineered products. I certainly don't want to cause a structural issue.

I've read the issues... I joists meant to be loaded from above not withdrawn from below, and the bottom flange is glued onto the OSB webbing. But also seeing instructions from joist manufacturers allowing it (example; not sure this is the manufacturer for my joists though).

In reading the directions it looks like I could also lag it into the 2x6 wall studs in the corner which I would imagine would alleviate some of the problem.

What do you all think? There are other options out there... e.g. the shelf system that I could probably fit along a sidewall somewhere and not be TOO intrusive.

 

[Uncle murph]

Is this a bad idea? Picked up one of these hanging racks from Costco for the new garage. Plan to store off-season tupperware stuff up there, not a ton of weight. It's a 600# maximum.

Ceiling is constructed from engineered I joists, and there's a second floor above the garage (currently unfinished, but roughed in to be finished in the next 6 months or so).

The directions call for 5/16" lags to be drilled into the joists... but makes no mention of engineered products. I certainly don't want to cause a structural issue.

I've read the issues... I joists meant to be loaded from above not withdrawn from below, and the bottom flange is glued onto the OSB webbing. But also seeing instructions from joist manufacturers allowing it (example; not sure this is the manufacturer for my joists though).

In reading the directions it looks like I could also lag it into the 2x6 wall studs in the corner which I would imagine would alleviate some of the problem.

What do you all think? There are other options out there... e.g. the shelf system that I could probably fit along a sidewall somewhere and not be TOO intrusive.

I definitely would not put a fastener that big into a I joist ,regular 2x framing would be fine but most of the tension in a I joist is in that relatively small bottom chord and that is a big fastener.

 

[dockdoc]

I definitely would not put a fastener that big into a I joist ,regular 2x framing would be fine but most of the tension in a I joist is in that relatively small bottom chord and that is a big fastener.

Thanks... that makes sense. I didn't really think too much about it when I purchased it, but now I'm thinking I'll see if there's a better on-the-ground storage option. Or even a wall-mounted option that I can put up high.

 

[wssix99]

Thanks... that makes sense. I didn't really think too much about it when I purchased it, but now I'm thinking I'll see if there's a better on-the-ground storage option. Or even a wall-mounted option that I can put up high.

This is wise. Your joists can't take the point loads that the ceiling unit could impart on them. Even then, a wall mounted rack will be able to hold more weight, no matter what your ceiling is made of.

 

[jack stand]

I'd think that little rack would fail long before I'd be concerned adout the floor joists, TJI's or not. Unless you're putting boxes of nails, engine parts, etc. what's the load going to be? 100-150 lbs?

 

[wssix99]

TJI's or not. Unless you're putting boxes of nails, engine parts, etc. what's the load going to be? 100-150 lbs?

That's enough of a point load to fail an engineered floor. They can handle that weight loaded from the top, but not necessarily hanging from the bottom.

 

[KEH]

If your ceiling joists are open and not like the pics you can sister the joists by adding solid wood pieces to the engineered pieces by drilling holes and bolting pieces of proper sized solid wood to the engineered pieces. Then you can lagbolt the rack to the solid wood pieces. If the room has a ceiling like the pics show you will have to go to more trouble. Possibly go into the attic is possible to do the attaching of the sisters.

KEH

 

[larry_g]

Take a closer look at the subfloor above the I joist. Does it have enough thickness to screw into? If not then from above screw and glue a 2x to the underside of the subfloor and hang from that. Countersink the screws so that they do not telegraph through the final flooring above.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[quickfarms]

I would talk to an engineer

my idea would be to run a 1/8”x3” strap over the top of the joist and down both sides and that way the load is in the top

 

[SpiderDave]

I'm not sure I would do it when a floor standing options are available that could be anchored the wall and hold an insane amount of weight. But perhaps you what to keep that floor space open for a reason?

If you were set on doing this, I'd find out which way your joists run? That'll lend some perspective too. If it ran perpendicular to the slotted angle iron I see mounted to the ceiling, that would certainly help spread out the load better. But I'm with KEH, I would sister up the joists too. If I was in question of the load capacity and able to swing it financially (being on the safe side), I'd go the span of each joist so that it's assisting the load not just spreading it out - if that makes sense? (Peace of mind) And if you DO have access to the joists, after sistering them up, consider anchoring them from the side hung at 90* than underneath. The shear strength of a steel lag will be far stronger than the linear pull out tolerance of the threads / wood. Better too much than too little no matter what the rack's rated for. Most won't consider that when they're loading it unless you have it labeled. And definitely tie the bottom into the 2x6 studs if you can. If not, hardware store should have Z or right angle brackets to bolt up under it for added support and flex in the metal.

That's my 2 pennies....

 

[i4ni]

I'm not going to get into this debate for any other point other than to say Lag bolts are inferior fasteners of questionable quality these days and I wouldn't trust them for any critical loading PERIOD!! There are much better fasteners that are manufactured to engineered specs and quality controlled to ensure they meet those specs. SPAX is one brand that comes to mind right off but there are others. Avoid lag bolts like the plague. I just read the OP. Tupperware?

 

[firebirdparts]

You've answered your own question. They have no strength, really, for bottom hanging. The webs aren't all that big, and they cut a slot in them. So if you hang potato chips from that bottom web, it'll be okay. If you hang heavy stuff, it's kinda creepy. I don't have any idea what it would take to make that glue let go. probably never happen.

 

[nadogail]

I agree that Lag Screws in tension have very questionable strength, if the Lags were in shear I would be more confident.

I think Quick Farms as a good idea.

 

[Git]

If your ceiling joists are open and not like the pics you can sister the joists by adding solid wood pieces to the engineered pieces by drilling holes and bolting pieces of proper sized solid wood to the engineered pieces.

That's what I did when I was making my upper shelves out of 2x material. I removed a strip of the drywall the width of a 2 x 4 which then allowed me reach up and screw/bolt a piece of 2 x 4 to each side of the joist which ran down from the top flange and was notched for the bottom flange so that the end with be flush.

 

[1redTA]

please use regular bolts, lags can be stripped too easily and you are left with a useless stripped hole

 

[MerlinsBeard]

If it was my house, I wouldn't take the risk personally with engineered joists without adding support. If the ceiling is already finished with drywall, I'd first look into something like NewAge wall mount shelves.

Pro Series Wall Mounted Steel Shelves

You can get various sizes like 2x4' or 2x8' and they side anchor into the wall. I installed several near the top of the 12' ceiling in my garage and they worked out awesome.

If your ceiling is still open, you can probably sister solid wood joists to use that to anchor your overhead ceiling racks. I would do a lot more research so I'd know what the risks are.

You may want to research tote sizes if you plan to try to optimize your storage space too.