Installing a door in a thick wall

[Sumboodie]

Is there an easy way to put a new door in an 8" wall? Most prehung are made for 4 or 6" thick.
It will be an inswing and open against a wall, so at most it can open 90*... so in theory either depth would work, aside from the trim being a bit of a challenge?

I can't get crazy with a $500+ door either.

The existing door swings toward the middle of the building but can only open about 90* as it hits the door rough in framing since the hinge is not at the edge. It couldn't open that much further anyway as it would hit the garage door track. Hope that makes sense.

 

[jar944]

Just add extension jambs.

 

[16again]

Buy the door with 6" jamb. If you can't buy a 2" extension jamb, get a couple 1x4's and make your own.

 

[Bucko]

If it is for an interior door some makers have a split-jam that comes apart where the door stop is and the seam is hidden by it. You basically put the hinge side in and then slip the other side in with the trim already installed. You could go that route but replace the slip in side with wider material and not have any seams from butting another piece to extend it.

 

[PCustoms]

Is there an easy way to put a new door in an 8" wall? Most prehung are made for 4 or 6" thick.
It will be an inswing and open against a wall, so at most it can open 90*... so in theory either depth would work, aside from the trim being a bit of a challenge?

I can't get crazy with a $500+ door either.

The existing door swings toward the middle of the building but can only open about 90* as it hits the door rough in framing since the hinge is not at the edge. It couldn't open that much further anyway as it would hit the garage door track. Hope that makes sense.

I assume exterior door.

Buy door w/o brickmold.

Mount the door so the hinge side of jamb is flush with interior wall. Door will now open 180-degrees.

Extend/trim jamb as required on outside.


Profit

 

[Sumboodie]

If it is for an interior door some makers have a split-jam that comes apart where the door stop is and the seam is hidden by it. You basically put the hinge side in and then slip the other side in with the trim already installed. You could go that route but replace the slip in side with wider material and not have any seams from butting another piece to extend it.

Sorry, forgot to mention it's an exterior door. It's a shop door, so doesn't need to be super elegant, but at the same time, look at least decent.

 

[jar944]

I assume exterior door.

Buy door w/o brickmold.

Mount the door so the hinge side of jamb is flush with interior wall. Door will now open 180-degrees.

Extend/trim jamb as required on outside.


Profit

You can't extend the threshold/sill unless the framing /flooring is built to be a alcove.

 

[Sumboodie]

I assume exterior door.

Buy door w/o brickmold.

Mount the door so the hinge side of jamb is flush with interior wall. Door will now open 180-degrees.

Extend/trim jamb as required on outside.


Profit

It can open 90*, as it's in the corner and will open against the wall.

As is right now, the door swings the wrong way and can't go past 90* as it hits the stud by the door hinge since the wall is thicker than the door. But even if it didn't hit that, it would only open maybe 100-110* as it'd then hit the garage door track.

The door in dented up, wood framing is starting to get in rough shape (was never painted beyond the factory primer) doesn't seal or close well and with it being "backward" I decided it was worth just replacing it.

 

[PCustoms]

You can't extend the threshold/sill unless the framing /flooring is built to be a alcove.

I never said extend the sill.

 

[Sumboodie]

You can't extend the threshold/sill unless the framing /flooring is built to be a alcove.

I may actually have to put a metal plate under the door sill to support it, as the wall overhangs the slab and that makes the want to twist as it's just floating in the front.

 

[PCustoms]

It can open 90*, as it's in the corner and will open against the wall.

As is right now, the door swings the wrong way and can't go past 90* as it hits the stud by the door hinge since the wall is thicker than the door. But even if it didn't hit that, it would only open maybe 100-110* as it'd then hit the garage door track.

The door in dented up, wood framing is starting to get in rough shape (was never painted beyond the factory primer) doesn't seal or close well and with it being "backward" I decided it was worth just replacing it.

Post a pic.

This shouldn't take much longer (if at all) then replacing a normal door.

Do you want outswing or inswing?

Left or right handed?

 

[jar944]

I never said extend the sill.

I assume exterior door.

Buy door w/o brickmold.

Mount the door so the hinge side of jamb is flush with interior wall. Door will now open 180-degrees.

Extend/trim jamb as required on outside.


Profit

If you extend the brickmold 2" the sill/threshold is now short of being flush with the exterior.

 

[Sumboodie]

Post a pic.

This shouldn't take much longer (if at all) then replacing a normal door.

Do you want outswing or inswing?

Left or right handed?

I already explained all of that in the first post.

No pics, I'm 600 miles away at work until next week.

 

[Sumboodie]

If you extend the brickmold 2" the sill/threshold is now short of being flush with the exterior.

That actually might work out, the wall overhangs the slab for some reason.

 

[The Cobbler]

You can't extend the threshold/sill unless the framing /flooring is built to be a alcove.

any real door company will sell sill extensions , they slip onto the fixed door sill